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Oilspot

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So here's a lowered suspension/ experience question. I'm adjusted down 2 clicks in the front, adjusted a touch nose down with 4" blocks in the back. I hadn't pulled the front bump stops out yet (because theyre tucked behind the shock), so I started getting around to that this weekend.

I'm have a set of the energy suspension low pro urethane units I've planned to put in there, but then I got to thinking....

 

Has anybody here run without bump stops in the front with a similar drop?  

With normal driving will I be slamming metal to metal a lot or will the spring catch it before that?  I'm used to driving lowered shit and know where all the "trouble spots" are in town.

 

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

There are shops who make heavy duty support bearings for motorsports. Jesse at High Angle Driveline sells them, but they usually need to be machined to fit.

 

No more slop.

There is actually a Volvo carrier bearing that could be used...

I am using it on my driveshaft...

They put it on in the same centerline location as the old...

It comes with it's own support stand... 

So you remove the original stuff, and the only thing I had to do was add an 1/8 thick plate....

Bolt the plate to the carrier bearing stand and then bolt that down to the original location.... the height was perfect....

I'd have to find the part number but it looked like this

Screenshot_20220110-143720_DuckDuckGo.jpg

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17 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

There is actually a Volvo carrier bearing that could be used...

I am using it on my driveshaft...

They put it on in the same centerline location as the old...

It comes with it's own support stand... 

So you remove the original stuff, and the only thing I had to do was add an 1/8 thick plate....

Bolt the plate to the carrier bearing stand and then bolt that down to the original location.... the height was perfect....

I'd have to find the part number but it looked like this

Screenshot_20220110-143720_DuckDuckGo.jpg

Thank you!!!! 

This kinda info is gold! 

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Oh yeah, I had another problem come up this weekend. I need to replace the small 90degree piece of heater hose right under the fuel pump. Of course it's unavailable, and the local parts stores don't wanna let me roam around to see if there's another preformed heater hose I can cut the chunk outta that I need. 

Anybody have a part number or make/yr/model on a piece of preformed heater hose I can cut this little chunk out of. 

The previous owner had just done a big ol' goofy loop to connect this, I really don't wanna have to go that direction. 

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Napa Molded Hose ID Guide, I use it all the time. About a quarter the way down, the PDF starts showing pics. It is sorted by hose ID and length. Check it out - https://www.napabeltshose.com/~/media/napa/flyers/molded-coolant-hose-id-guide_napa-interchange-final_lr.pdf

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After a lot of searching I found the nissian part number for the l shaped heater hose under the fuel pump. Local dealership got it for me in roughly 24hrs.

One last thing I've gotta hassle with!

Kinda hard to tell at a glance but it is two different inside diameters. 

zv8Adi6.jpg

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2 hours ago, Oilspot said:

After a lot of searching I found the nissian part number for the l shaped heater hose under the fuel pump. Local dealership got it for me in roughly 24hrs.

One last thing I've gotta hassle with!

Kinda hard to tell at a glance but it is two different inside diameters. 

zv8Adi6.jpg

I'm confused where this goes and what its connecting to...

This is an L16 right....

 

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

I'm confused where this goes and what its connecting to...

This is an L16 right....

 


It’s the return line from the intake manifold. It feeds back into the water pump inlet by connecting the hardline to a nipple on the side fitting.

Edited by mainer311
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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

I'm confused where this goes and what its connecting to...

This is an L16 right....

 

T2R5tGR.jpg

 

Yeah it's a L16.

Pardon the greasy mess! I sprayed down the immediate area around the hose with wd40 and scrubbed with a wire brush.  Once I get the truck outside I'll hit it with this shit.....

6D98X5J.jpg

 

Somebody turned me onto it about 2 years ago. It's $1 at family dollar and works better than simple green!!!! Ill soak that greasy area for maybe 5min with this crap and spray it with a hose. It doesn't mess up aluminum or leave a weird film. It should come super clean and I don't have to make a mess of my shop floor for the time being. 

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19 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Ah is see it now, I never had that hard line on my motor...

 

Also looks like a loose bolt in that picture... might wanna tighten that....

Yeah that's the alternator bracket. It's out and I'm having to pick up a replacement in the morning. 

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well... dumbass question. i've got a large guage yellow and a large guage black (both roughly 12ga) with an eyelet for the alternator. I'm guessing that I hook the yellow one to the B post on the alternator, and the black to the ground!?!?!?!

 

Putting that damn alternator in sucked, not really sure why but it fought me the whole way in. Doing a universal joint in the truck yesterday sucked and fought me the whole damn time (coming out). I'm frustrated and really don't even wanna mess with the truck right now, but I need it for tomorrow.

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I feel your pain man. I probably installed and uninstalled an alternator like 10+ times after I put my truck back together.  It ducking sucked big time.  
 

to this day I still don’t from memory which wire goes where. I have to look at an old pic to know.  
 

Check it:

 

51016537083_e7b800b038_b.jpg

 

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52 minutes ago, d.p said:

I feel your pain man. I probably installed and uninstalled an alternator like 10+ times after I put my truck back together.  It ducking sucked big time.  
 

to this day I still don’t from memory which wire goes where. I have to look at an old pic to know.  
 

Check it:

 

51016537083_e7b800b038_b.jpg

 

okay, so the black is ground, just wanted to make sure. 

I'm not sure why it was so damn hard to put in. Just couldn't find good angles to swing wrenches. 

 

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well frying my accelerator cable yesterday was a humbling experience! I started thinking about why that happened, and that led me to start searching about grounds, adding grounds etc. this morning. So far what I've picked up is that the cab, bed, engine, and frame are all somewhat isolated from each other for the most part. I see mention of adding grounds so I figure, in the name of not ever having to deal with any issues due to poor grounds in the future I'm going to spend a little extra time adding addressing this.

I'd like to use existing bolt holes/ studs and avoid grounding through sheetmetal if possible. So whats the cleanest way to....

ground the body to the frame...

bed to the frame.......

Frame to the engine block....  etc.

 

  

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19 hours ago, d.p said:

I feel your pain man. I probably installed and uninstalled an alternator like 10+ times after I put my truck back together.  It ducking sucked big time.  
 

to this day I still don’t from memory which wire goes where. I have to look at an old pic to know.  
 

Check it:

 

51016537083_e7b800b038_b.jpg

 

Too many yellow wires...

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3 hours ago, thisismatt said:

Looks factory. One of those is W/B, just yellowed from age.

 

This is it.  And the ground just has a yellow sheath which came like that when I bought it.   I also replaced the T sensor whatever its called with a new one so now those wires are orange/green.  

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