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  • Location
    Las Cruces, NM
  • Cars
    71' datsun 521.

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  1. Oilspot

    NM 521

    Nice!!!! Instantly thought of this old 27mm Hazet wrench that's been in the back of my toolbox forever. Dug it out and it's the perfect bend/ fit etc.
  2. Oilspot

    NM 521

    Dumb question! Whats the head size on the main pulley bolt. It's really kinda crammed in there behind the fan shroud etc. I need to figure out what tool combo I need to get in there to turn the motor by hand. I haven't adjusted the valves yet. From working on dirtbikes (four stroke)..... I know that when a bike is hard to start, a lot of times its a indication that intake valve(s) are tight. The truck does like to backfire occasionally in my pain in the ass warm up "process". Regardless if this is my issue, I'm sure the engine can benefit from an adjustment !!!?!?!!!!!
  3. Oilspot

    NM 521

    Got the radiator fixed at a local place. Cut down the pushrod to the MC so the brakes are releasing. I'd figured out midweek that the choke was sticking shut. It's a good 75 degrees so I've just got the choke fully disengaged. Blast of fuel when I hit engage the accelerator pump. New fuel filter, sight glass on the hitachi verifies I have a full fuel bowl. I got it running earlier, and damn it took a while to get it to start, and rev out well. I got the timing close to set but failed to get my radiator cap back from the shop, and the radiator was wanting to boil over. So I took a break to go to run an errand I needed to take care of this morning. Now that the truck has cooled down its not wanting to rev out when I get it started. Same problem I was struggling with this morning. It like once i get it warmed up the carb finally come to life and wants to work. Before that it rough stumbly idle, no response to alterations with the gas pedal. Not sure if it's carb... timing... distributor???? Having to take a brake because it's pissing me off and I'm stumped.
  4. Oilspot

    NM 521

    I don't know if I would have spotted the lack of the plug behind the brake switch if you hadn't posted this!!!!! Why the hell didn't they just leave it solid. Why did they make a hole the perfect size for the brake switch to fit through if the plug was missing? lol I guess I'll dig around at the hardware store to figure out a good something to plug it up! The pushrod was super easy to pull out. Yes there's a circlip, but it slid out easily. I'll trim some off the threaded end, put it back together and I'll be able to adjust the pedal free play to spec. I did spot a small leak in the damn radiator where the body meets the top piece. I may see if the local radiator shop can fix it proper for me. If that's wild expensive I guess the ebay aluminum units are the go to for these trucks (from what I've read so far).
  5. Oilspot

    NM 521

    And... That's an option to squeezing my 6'3" bad back self underneath the dash again!!!!!! Thank you!!!!
  6. Oilspot

    NM 521

    this sparks another "oh yeah" memory moment. When Installing the MC there was only one shim, or I guess I should say a half of a shim set. So no my MC isn't shimmed out correctly, or at all for that matter. I'm hoping these are standard shims used across several makes and models, and that I may be able to source them locally????? if not are they usually stacked or would I need to order in a needed thickness?
  7. Oilspot

    NM 521

    I looked at my order history from rockauto, and I've got a LUK master cylinder, stock replacement. This is working off of memory (which isn't a very reliable source), but I don't think the pushrod was captured with a clip. I'm hoping not because if so I should be able to "easily" pull the pushrod, shorten it some, throw it back together and be done with it. Your pushrods are nice pieces!!! I worked machining for a few years and appreciate your craftsmanship, I'm just not sure that I need a full replacement. That is unless I think I'll be able to show it off at shows/ meets. "hey duck your head way up under the ol' dash there and get a gander at my master cylinder pushrod.... she's a beaut!!!" :) I think the pin that attaches the pushrod to the pedal on the brakes is in good condition (again, working off memory!). The pin/ connector between the clutch pedal/ master is the one that's shot and that i need a replacement for!!! another thing I forgot to ask about.... There's something missing on my gas door/ clip apparatus. There's a spot (two holes), where some it looks like some type clip should reside. At this point the gas door swings open like a school bus stop sign when I hit the brakes. What am I missing here... does anybody have one?
  8. Oilspot

    NM 521

    forgot to ask..... Where can I get a replacement pin for the clutch pedal/ clutch master cylinder connection. Mines worn a huge groove in itself and needs to be replace badly!!!!
  9. Oilspot

    NM 521

    Damn! It sounds like Nissan views the issue of absorbing shock... very seriously!!!!
  10. Oilspot

    NM 521

    I'm thinking the master cylinder pushrod may be adjusted to tight also! I got the centeric master from rock auto. I think I'll prob need to pull the pushrod out and shorten it about 3/8"! When I went to adjust it it wanted to run into the back of the pedal before I could get any Freeplay. That would explain the non releasing brakes!!!! I've never seen front shocks addressed for lowered trucks here. Do stock shocks have enough travel to run with the torsions adjusted 2 clicks? A few more pics of the little mule
  11. Oilspot

    NM 521

    thank you! The blue crap they put on these whitewalls it brutal. I'm having to scrub the hell out of them and they still have a blue tint. as per adjusting brakes, the manual says to adjust till you feel drag and then back off 12 "ratchets". This seems a little excessive. I'm used to the old vw's where you feel drag and just back off till everything frees up. With that being said the brakes seem like they're not wanting to full release when i just took the truck around 5 miles to get some gas and a burrito. Damn brake lights stayed on when I got home to. (Looks like maybe I didn't/ don't know better than what the manual recommended!!!!) I've got some issue with my filler tube also. Went to put it gas and I had a decent amount raining from under the truck.
  12. Oilspot

    NM 521

    I finally got to drive it!!!! Need to readjust the brakes (lr is wanting to lock up). Trying to get the timing and idle sorted. I've got an old style timing light and no tach so I'm having to set the idle by ear. I've taken it on two little drives and each time I come back the idle is a little higher than it was. Can't tank mainer enough for the carb and wheels!!!!! This little things so much fun to drive!!! At 6'2" I feel like I can almost hang my arms out of both windows at the same time while driving
  13. Oilspot

    NM 521

    Went and bought a pair of needle nose vice grips on suggestion from an old mechanic friend and got the rear brake shoes put together. I adjusted the rear brakes, got that all together and moved to the front. Figure no better time than while I'm in there to clean and lube the front adjusters and go ahead and repack the front wheel bearings while I'm in there. When I was pulling all the old grease from the void between the inner and outter bearings, a thin spacer ring (hopefully) came out. I look at the manual diagram and can't tell where this goes or if maybe it's the remnants of an old inner bearing seal. Hoping to identify this little thingus so that I can get it back together in the morning. I can probably figure it out by taking the other side apart but honestly I'm beat tired and don't feel like working on this truck any more today.
  14. Oilspot

    NM 521

    any tips/ tricks/ proper tool to get the top (heavy) spring on the rear brake shoe assembly. I know i can sit out there and cuss and eventually get it. But I figure there may be an easy way to get it together. The manual I have isn't clear, It just shows how to get everything apart and says reverse that. I guess most of the older drum stuff I've worked with I've been able to just assemble all the springs etc and pull them over the wheel cylinders and adjusters. The axle flange keeps me from doing that on the truck.
  15. It'll "work" fine. Your speedo will be off. The tires alone are "re-gearing" the truck. I doubt you'll like it!!!!! Talk about farmtruck.... it'll be a stump puller, and your probably not going to want to spend a lot of time on the highway.
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