Jump to content

NM 521


Oilspot

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 373
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Picked up that Weber from d.p., ordered some main and idle jets (stock jetting doesn't jive well at 3800ft above sea level), and holy hell the trucks running incredible!!! Just ran all over town, made several stops, and it didn't hiccup once. It's nice to finally be able to consider the truck a driver!!!!

 

A few things I ran into. 

Fuel filler neck/ hose is trashed! I measured and the filler flange is 2.250". The hose has two bends, not to drastic. Does anyone have a line on a place I could get the exact hose? I guess i could just bend a straight hose but I'm thinking thats a hassle I'd rather avoid if possible.

 

Another something I ran into. When bolting on my license plate, I realized that the  Passenger side taillight bulb holder unit is trashed. I hit up Jake and he's not making these. Does anybody have a set they wanna sell.  

 

And what piece am I missing on my fuel door, and does anybody have one of those up for sale? 

BlQm54h.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Oilspot
  • Like 1
Link to comment

As for the fuel door. I had a problem on an old truck of mine doin the same thing...I used one of those tiny very strong magnets and it worked just fine. You can even glue/epoxy one side so it stays in place. You may have to shim the magnet (or shave it) to have the door sit flush so do a test fit before you glue it. 
-Pidge

 

23CBD548-E297-4BDB-927E-2290221A6874.jpeg

Edited by pidge
  • Like 3
Link to comment

You can find those at Home Depot in the hardware aisle.  Boring fact for the day.....the locking fuel doors with a finger pull bump were not the factory version....they were done at the dealer or elsewhere.  The factory locking door did not have a finger pull bump.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

Also missing the little pull through bumpers.

Do you happen to have a picture of the original setup. I'm fine with doing magnets, but if replication of original is easy enough I'll prob go that direction

 

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

So the truck gets new all new hoses and the heater unit gone through this weekend. I figure I'll just loop the heater hose inlet/ outlet so I can drive the truck while I'm cleaning, painting, etc. 

I got the gates 18457 to make the S to replace the short hose. The long hose, in the truck now, is just bulk hose and I'd assumed that how it's supposed to be. 

 

I figure I'll ask, how was it setup originally? Was the long heater hose a molded hose also? 

Link to comment

You can loop together but stick a dowel in there to block flow. This would be the same as shutting it off and not using it. Alright in the winter but in the summer this is a lot of hot water being sent right back into the engine without any cooling. Basically circumventing the radiator.

Link to comment
8 hours ago, Oilspot said:

 

I figure I'll ask, how was it setup originally? Was the long heater hose a molded hose also? 


Yes, it was. It is also an “S” shape made to exit the heater core to the passenger side, and then turn again to travel along the block to the nipple in the front.

Link to comment
29 minutes ago, mainer311 said:


Yes, it was. It is also an “S” shape made to exit the heater core to the passenger side, and then turn again to travel along the block to the nipple in the front.

so.... another gates 18457, cut/ attached to some bulk 5/8" heater hose!?!?

8 hours ago, datzenmike said:

You can loop together but stick a dowel in there to block flow. This would be the same as shutting it off and not using it. Alright in the winter but in the summer this is a lot of hot water being sent right back into the engine without any cooling. Basically circumventing the radiator.

Just planning to loop it for the day, hopefully a week tops if I run into any problems cleaning up/ "restoring" the heater box assembly. But good point for anybody looking to bypass for any extended amount of time!!!

 

Is any making the heater on/off stickers? I can tape of the existing one when I paint, but always think it turns out just a little cleaner to fully re spray something completely. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
58 minutes ago, Oilspot said:

so.... another gates 18457, cut/ attached to some bulk 5/8" heater hose!?!?

Just planning to loop it for the day, hopefully a week tops if I run into any problems cleaning up/ "restoring" the heater box assembly. But good point for anybody looking to bypass for any extended amount of time!!!

 

Is any making the heater on/off stickers? I can tape of the existing one when I paint, but always think it turns out just a little cleaner to fully re spray something completely. 

 

There was someone in the 320 section that made new stickers for his heater box which is similar to the 521. they would probably be the same sticker or atleast close enough....

I'm not sure if he just made his or if he had a couple done.....

I'll see if I can find where I saw it....

 

Link to comment
1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

I have no idea how to link a thread but go to the 320 section in the trucks and look for...

 

New 320 owner, 62?

Look at pg 44...

I assume you just want the hot cold one.... 

 

My man, the .... right corner of any post has a share link, click it and copy the URL and PASTE IT:

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Okay I've got the whole box out and am working on pulling the valve outta the heater core. I looked at some info on pulling these and have seen that using a dowel to punch them through is the best way of getting them apart. 

The "snout" on the cylindrical valve has seen better days, but can be cleaned up and salvaged. The threaded hole, used to hold the on and off switch has been mushed up some. I'm gonna need to run a tap through it for sure to be able to hang a bolt through there. 

 

Anybody happen to know what size/ pitch threads the hole it's supposed to have? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
22 hours ago, Oilspot said:

Okay I've got the whole box out and am working on pulling the valve outta the heater core. I looked at some info on pulling these and have seen that using a dowel to punch them through is the best way of getting them apart. 

The "snout" on the cylindrical valve has seen better days, but can be cleaned up and salvaged. The threaded hole, used to hold the on and off switch has been mushed up some. I'm gonna need to run a tap through it for sure to be able to hang a bolt through there. 

 

Anybody happen to know what size/ pitch threads the hole it's supposed to have? 

Well, not sure what is was before, she's a 6-32 now94fCeUm.jpg

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment

I'm got the heater box back from the radiator shop today. They fixed (properly) a job weld patch the PO had done, hot tanked, pressure tested, etc. I did a quick refurb on the box... Daily driver quality (not perfect by any means.) Did new hoses this past weekend, it'll get all new heater hoses, clamps, etc when I put this all back together in the next few days.  Hoping my new Jakes/ makes heater boot will show up this afternoon, was supposed to get here yesterday but usps botched that. 

 

pSJgtY0.jpg

Edited by Oilspot
  • Like 3
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.