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Just now, Oilspot said:

Just got word back, he said he'd be making more in 6months or so. 



How long did the ebay shift boot last you? 

You need taillight housings ? I might have a spare set in decent condition and some lens and at least one good frame. Let me know.

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14 minutes ago, mrbigtanker said:

You need taillight housings ? I might have a spare set in decent condition and some lens and at least one good frame. Let me know.

Yes I do!   

Housings for sure!!!! Interested in taking a look at the lens you've got also.

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So now that I'm using the truck as my daily, I really need to be able to lock it!!! I don't have a key for the door locks and the drivers side cylinder is beat to shit anyhow. I started looking for replacements. I guess what I really need to know is compatibility, i.e. with what other Datsun's does the 521 share the same lock cylinders?


Passenger side door locks good from the inside but the drivers side is sticky as hell. I hosed her down with some PB blaster yesterday afternoon and am hoping that'll free it up. 

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Most Datsuns of that era share many parts. I would think that lock cylinders from anything of the same year or +/- a year or 3 would be the same. I will look at my 411 when it gets a little warmer outside (currently 15 degrees here). It also depends on your key, on my 411 it is different than the 510's or 1200's I have (and I just now clicked that the 411 is older). I would say 1970 and up.

Another thought is to take a look at Datsunfreaks thread "Revival of the Chickenhawk". On one of the recent pages, he addresses lock set issues with a very interesting solution.

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Watch out for the ebay locks...

The 521 has a slightly bent plate on the back but some of the ones they sell are flat and dont line up properly....

It looks like the bad ones I'm referring to are not really shown on ebay sold for the 521, but I did see one for the 620 that had the flat plate...


This is what you want it to look like..


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Thank you all for the feedback! I'll start digging around for a decent set of cylinders over the weekend.


Decided to revisit my tailgate issue this morning. Pulled the tailgate and tried to get it bent back into shape, but it was obvious that wasn't gonna happen.KZ9ANlz.jpg

So I spent a little time trying to fab up a new hinge piece. I got it to match the bend of the driver's side fairly well.




Figured I come in, catch my breath, have a cup of coffee before welding it into place. 

For sure the kinda piece that if it's not in there straight etc. It won't work worth a shit. 


Update.... My tailgate sits flush now. Unfortunately the spring in the latch is all wadded up so the handle won't sit flat. 

While I had it in the shop I started stripping the paint off the rear bumper to paint. I'll be pulling it next weekend when I put in the new taillights that are on their way from mrbigtanker.  

I was originally thinking about repainting it white, maybe a flat silver like it may have been when the bumper was new.  Now I'm considering leaving it raw and going with a oiled look.  Any thoughts? 


Edited by Oilspot
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2 hours ago, d.p said:

@Oilspot This what some dudes have been using:



That's what I'm going to use in my blue truck for a little 'updated' security as far as locks go. Haven't installed yet, but I'm pretty sure you will have to widen the factory lock holes, but its worth a little peace of mind.

There is an install guide on ratsun for a 510 (but the process is the exact same) located here: 

@japanautoengineering on instagram - found some datsun roadster locks with the cool lock cover option and put them in his 521


I know I have a better saved picture of that somewhere....

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On 12/6/2021 at 10:28 AM, Oilspot said:

Just got word back, he said he'd be making more in 6months or so. 



How long did the ebay shift boot last you? 


Glad Ray was able to help you out in the meantime!  I did manage to sit down and do some cad work today and have a print in the machine to try out. The main issue was these would be printed out of two pieces and glued together at that thick flange between the two main brake lense pockets. The walls were thickened up an additional .03 and I chopped off those tangs that project from where the sockets go in as this was a common stress point.


I'll know in 15hrs or so how things are looking

521 buck bottom.JPG

521 bucket.JPG

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Driving home last night, my ignition light stayed on for a bit and finally turned off. This morning it stayed on most the way to work. It'd turn off if I take it out of gear and rev the engine some. 


What might this indicate? Alternator? I've seen mention of an external regulator!?!?!?

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Both alternator and external regulator are relatively reliable. The regulator is technically adjustable but over the head of most and it's simply easier to replace. The trouble is if it isn't the problem, time and money is wasted doing this. Likewise the alternator can be replaced by the owner quite easily but there is one feature of the alternator that can be easily and cheaply removed and replaced that might fix your problem.   


These are the two carbon brushes that supply power to the electro-magnet rotor spun by the fan belt. The external regulator increases and decreases the power supplied to the magnet which in turn increases or decreases the output of the stator windings. You used to be able to buy these brush replacement kits for as little as a few dollars.


The advantage to doing this yourself is you get to keep the much better quality factory alternator. Replacement alternators these days are of poor quality, and I mean extremely poor quality. They are 'remanufactured' using the cheapest bearings and brushes and sloppy work. Their price $40-$60 alone should set off alarms.


Rock Auto has them for $4. Worth a try and not going to break the bank if it doesn't work







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Except rock auto will ship them from eight different warehouses at $10 each shipment, making your $2 order $82 😂


But seriously, the brushes can be checked before buying new ones. Interesting, Nissan lists two part numbers for the two brushes...looks like they aren't radially aligned so the faces are ground a bit offset. Pay attention to how the old ones look...

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So.... Ignition light is sporadic. Battery is staying charged. I figure, I don't mind buying a new voltage regulator to replace what's probably the 50yr old original unit. Especially since I'm planning to hook a inverter to the battery this Saturday to do a local Christmas light parade with the truck. 

I have orileys order one in but when I go to pick it up it's way bigger than the original unit. 


Plugs match up, the mounting bracket will sit in the original spot. I'm thinking its a correct replacement, but as with all electrical parts.... I can't return it once I buy it and walk out the door (guy working let me take it out to the truck to size it up). 


Anybody used a replacement anything like this? 

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