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NM 521


Oilspot

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On 7/1/2021 at 9:08 AM, Oilspot said:

You're one step ahead of me! Motor runs,brakes aren't working, and My fiance has already tried claiming the truck as hers🥺🤣. Was thinking this morning on my way to work that I should just do the conversion right off the bat!!!

So... That website has a lot of info, but no price. Do you know what his kits are going for?

And, while I'm at it I'll put the feelers out for the spindles I'll be needing! 

I'm not sure why everyone says that.  It's in the title of the product at least 3x's and the little "view product" box.  I guess I'll have to see if I can highlight it or add it a few more times. lol

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Well I got the big ol' toolbox outta the bed and did a little cleaning up quick yesterday afternoon. Today I wanna start digging into the carb, points, timing, valve adjustment etc. as well as check out the fuel tank/ delivery lines.  I haven't even pulled the fuel cap and am hoping not to find a varnished  disaster in there!

 

Looking online, is the carb a Nikki 61060? From what a old mechanic friend said ill need a kit for it. any best source, and for the most part are all rebuld kits created equal? I've seen mention that the J16 has some overheating issues. I'm at almost 4000 ft of elevation, so carb jetting is usually pretty standard as everything tends to run a little rich up here. 

 

I've gotta say I'm pretty excited to work on this little motor. I'm loving the simplicity of everything on this truck!!!

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1 hour ago, mklotz70 said:

I'm not sure why everyone says that.  It's in the title of the product at least 3x's and the little "view product" box.  I guess I'll have to see if I can highlight it or add it a few more times. lol

I got your message, thank you for taking the time to respond! I'll be looking for the spindles i need and setting aside some cash for the kit. 

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13 minutes ago, Oilspot said:

I got your message, thank you for taking the time to respond! I'll be looking for the spindles i need and setting aside some cash for the kit. 

Spindles you need?  The kit is designed for king pins.  Maybe you meant hubs?  

 

 

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4 hours ago, mklotz70 said:

I'm not sure why everyone says that.  It's in the title of the product at least 3x's and the little "view product" box.  I guess I'll have to see if I can highlight it or add it a few more times. lol

 

In certain views it's not there on the product page. 

Screenshot_20210703-080456.png

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I'll see about adding it to that page. Thanks.  I was going to post some images where it shows up on the first page with the product listing and if you click on the view product button, it shows up on that page too.  

It's probably because nobody uses a computer any more and it doesn't display well on a phone.  

 

 

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A lot of work on the truck yesterday. I'd pulled the bumper off because it was bent upward. I pulled the lower valence because it's sustained some damage over time. I pulled and mounted the bumper brackets to the frame, I figure from there I can best assess where the damage to them is so that I can work to correct it.85F4LYu.jpgAgD9ET6.jpg

 

 I got the carb rebuilt and bolted on with one small hiccup I'm going to have to address. I went ahead and pulled the distributor this morning because the advance mechanism isn't working. Figured since it's out and in hand I'll probably disassemble it and clean it up before reassembling. 

DDZLX5n.jpg

My back hurts. I'm getting to old for this crap!🤣

Edited by Oilspot
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  • 3 weeks later...

didn't get much done over a few weeks other than cleaning, assessment, etc. Ordered a new single point distributor and got the truck running for the first time this evening. It will rev up fairly nicely and runs strong, but doesn't wanna idle. 

I've desmogged the truck so I plugged the l shaped (3/8" or so) vent tube that sticks off the drivers side of the intake manifold. I kept tweaking and all of a sudden, it idles strong and to high. I realize my temp plug on the smog system thingus has fallen out. So It idles strong with a wild intake leak under the carb.  This of course was pretty much all in the dark with a cell phone flashlight. 

So I'm just verifying that that vent tube should be plugged off. or did the smog system let a metered amount of air enter there? 

 

I'm not sure I'll have much more of a chance to work on it till the weekend, but man it's good to hear it run strong and smooth! Good to know I've got a decent powerplant to work with! 

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There are almost no pollution devices on the 521. Dual points, air pump and that's about it. If you are talking about the PCV valve you should keep that working. Yes it has a metered amount of air leak that's accounted for and removes moisture and petroleum fumes from the crankcase that pollute/dilute the oil. Engine oil stays cleaner and lasts longer.

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18 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

There are almost no pollution devices on the 521. Dual points, air pump and that's about it. If you are talking about the PCV valve you should keep that working. Yes it has a metered amount of air leak that's accounted for and removes moisture and petroleum fumes from the crankcase that pollute/dilute the oil. Engine oil stays cleaner and lasts longer.

 

  2AFFvIF.jpgthis opening. It was routed through the air pump etc. With it plugged off, it doesn't wanna idle. With it opened it idles high, revs out clean. 

Edited by Oilspot
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1 minute ago, d.p said:

Cap it off.  I used those rubber nipple caps on all that crap that I deleted off my l16.  Did you plug/cap the other end of it as well? 

 

You can see it in this pic:

 

34838412484_b7549936e4_c.jpg

I'll have to look for "the other end" when I get a chance. Like I said, I got her to run pretty much in the dark.

Hoping to get another chance to work on it before the weekend, this job things always getting in the way🤣.

I couldn't imagine it being designed with that much of a vacuume leak under the carb but figured I'd ask to make sure. I can at least get the timing set at that high idle, then start tracking down where my idle problems coming from. 

 

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47 minutes ago, Oilspot said:

 

  2AFFvIF.jpgthis opening. It was routed through the air pump etc. With it plugged off, it doesn't wanna idle. With it opened it idles high, revs out clean. 

Can't tell what you got going on in the pic cause of the fat red circle but here's what I've got on my 71 521. I removed my air pump since it was seized and capped off the hose line under the carb as seen in the pic.  Also noticed you've got a intake bolt missing. That will cause your engine to rev higher. 

 

DSCN1555.JPG

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5 minutes ago, 420n620 said:

Can't tell what you got going on in the pic cause of the fat red circle but here's what I've got on my 71 521. I removed my air pump since it was seized and capped off the hose line under the carb as seen in the pic.  Also noticed you've got a intake bolt missing. That will cause your engine to rev higher. 

 

DSCN1555.JPG

Old pic. You'll notice the distributors missing also. The intake bolts missing because it holds the solid fuel line. I've got all that back together now as well as the coolant line that enters the front of the manifold. 

I'll have to track everything down when I've got some light. 

Thank you for the feedback on that vent!  It'll save me time not chasing "ideas" and misunderstandings about how the smog system worked. 

Edited by Oilspot
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  • 1 month later...

I'm having troubles getting the temp guage to work. I've got power to the sensor. Going by the manual... when i take that to ground (while hot) I dont get any deflection on the temp guage. The troubleshooting section says my guage is bad. 

Is there anything else along the way I could be missing. If not, can i replace just the temp guage? 

The fuel guage works great. 

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Go there.  I still cant figure out pics.  Info is in there and a pic of the pinout for the cluster.

 

Using my pin out diagram above, connect 12 volts negative to the ground pin.  Apply 12 volt positive to right turn, left turn, dash light, and high beam, those lights should come on.

Apply 12 volt positive to the Ign power in pin, leaving 12 volt negative on the ground pin, and then grounding the oil light pin, and the IGN pin those lights should come on.

With the ground still connected, and 12 volt positive on the ign power in pin, grounding the temp sender pin should cause the temp gauge go to full hot.  Grounding the gas sender pin should cause the fuel gauge to go to full.

 

This is how you can test the fuel gauge.  Not my pic or description of how to test.  

 

 

Edited by bilzbobaggins
i is moran
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Correct, grounding the temperature sender wire will send the gauge to full HOT. I guess you measured the voltage in the sender wire? should be around 8 volts. Both gauges are fed from a voltage regulator that drops it to 'around' 8v. It passes through the gauge and goes to ground through the sender. If it's there then it must be going through the gauge meter. Maybe the needle is stuck?

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yeah no movement on the temp guage. So i figure pull the instrument cluster and have a look what all may have gone on back in the dark recess of my dash over the past 50 years. Manual says pull the two screws, the speedo cable, and the plug and it'll come out. I pushed from the back a little and the bottom of the cluster popped out maybe a quarter inch. The (still perfect condition) bezel looks like it'll break easily if I start tugging away like an idiot. 

I'm i missing something in dragging this instrument cluster out, or is it a little more involved that I've been led to believe in the manual. 

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While I was waiting for replys, I finally got the solid vacuum  line that goes to the distributor unclogged. I also got the timing set. She's running a little happier now/ better off throttle response  but still not perfect. Does anybody have a decent picture of how that solid line was originally routed? It's got a tab on it to hold it down somewhere along the line. 

I'm letting the shop air out, sitting in the ac having a beer before i go back down and break that instrument bezel trying to get the panel out. 

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Not important. It goes to the base of the carburetor facing the valve cover. I don't remember mine being a screw on metal pipe. Just don't kink it.

 

Vacuum advance is a function of engine load. Light throttle, higher vacuum, cylinder is not filled and takes longer to burn so vacuum advances the timing so combustion reaches maximum pressure to push down on the piston at around 17 degrees ATDC. Heavy throttle, low to no vacuum, maximum cylinder filling shortest burn time no or little advance needed to hit the 17 degree 'sweet spot'. Vacuum advance improves engine efficiency and mileage at part throttle.

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49 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Not important. 

When I run something stock, I like to try to make it look as stock/ clean as possible (Well other than ripping out smog equipment).

It's kinda a habit/ preference I picked up over years of playing with old air cooled VW's.  

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Update. The plastic instrument bezel slides straight down, disengaging two clips on either side letting you get it out of the way. This is necessary because there are two more screws in the top corners of the instrument panel. With those free it slides right out.

Yay for getting in out! Now to figure out what it's gonna take to get the temp gauge working. I can't see driving around without one!

 

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