New 320 owner, 62?

[320 Newb]

Great info everyone thanks for your help! Interesting the pedal might have come bare from the factory.

 

Steve I think I'm going to get some aluminum stock and make guides like yours around my vent screen to accept the rubber Wayno picked up. That's a clever solution.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

21 hours ago, 320 Newb said:

Has anyone converted to Dot 5 synthetic brake fluid? Thinking about doing it to preserve my paint. I'll cry if Dot 3 drips down my firewall.

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

DOT 5 is for cars/trucks that sit most of their life. If and when you decide that you hate DOT 5, it is a pain to flush it out and switch back to DOT4.

 

One trick I learned to keep old drum brake systems healthy is to install a 2# residual valve in the brake line. This helps keep the lip seals in the wheel cylinders pushed tight against the cylinder wall, which helps keep moisture out and the cylinders from failing. This is a common modification that builders have been using for decades. I learned about it the hard way when the "new" brake system in my 320 Datsun started leaking at the wheels after only 3 years. I originally used all OEM parts, and was shocked to see the leak after such a short amount of time. Some other builder told me about the residual valve trick, and it solved the problem.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

There are many articles on different brake fluids, but this one gives a basic rundown from a car guy's perspective - https://www.good-guys.com/hotnews/tech-basics-behind-brake-fluid/

[stevecar]

I removed the rubber guide to take a pic. It is hidden by the rubber and vent screen, so doesn't have to look pretty. The left side goes behind the front bracket and the right goes inside. It is pretty stable. I just took some scap metal and made the 90 degree and some cuts to make the bend.

[wayno]

So did you modify that front lip(cut it) so the rubber piece would slide over it across the front?

13 minutes ago, stevecar said:

I removed the rubber guide to take a pic. It is hidden by the rubber and vent screen, so doesn't have to look pretty. The left side goes behind the front bracket and the right goes inside. It is pretty stable. I just took some scap metal and made the 90 degree and some cuts to make the bend.

 

[stevecar]

I forgot about that. I think I just straightened it up a bit. I didn't want to cut it. Here is the best pic I could get.

[wayno]

Thankyou Steve 

[320 Newb]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

DOT 5 is for cars/trucks that sit most of their life. If and when you decide that you hate DOT 5, it is a pain to flush it out and switch back to DOT4.

 

One trick I learned to keep old drum brake systems healthy is to install a 2# residual valve in the brake line. This helps keep the lip seals in the wheel cylinders pushed tight against the cylinder wall, which helps keep moisture out and the cylinders from failing. This is a common modification that builders have been using for decades. I learned about it the hard way when the "new" brake system in my 320 Datsun started leaking at the wheels after only 3 years. I originally used all OEM parts, and was shocked to see the leak after such a short amount of time. Some other builder told me about the residual valve trick, and it solved the problem.

 

I've been reading up on Dot 5 and it's basically as divisive as American politics. I can't find anything definitive on performance pros/cons but one thing is clear you have to full clean your system to prevent any residual Dot 3 or 4 from mixing. That part might be the deal killer for me. If I do it I'll flush everything out the best I can with brake cleaner (my masters are already off and spotless) then hook it all back up and pump alcohol through the system and out the bleeders until it's clean. Does that sound right?

[thisismatt]

While water mixes with Dot 3 preventing localized pooling, it will pool and potentially drop to the lowest points (calipers, slave cylinders) with Dot 5, which is the worst place for it. Dot 5.1 is compatible with 3 or 4 and has the same/similarly high boiling point of 5.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

2 hours ago, thisismatt said:

While water mixes with Dot 3 preventing localized pooling, it will pool and potentially drop to the lowest points (calipers, slave cylinders) with Dot 5, which is the worst place for it. Dot 5.1 is compatible with 3 or 4 and has the same/similarly high boiling point of 5.

Dot 5.1 still hurts paint, so don't be fooled there.

[320 Newb]

I'm going through my hydraulic stuff and found the piston in my slave cylinder stuck. I tapped it in a little to see if it'd free it up but now it's just stuck in the compressed position. I've soaked it in penetrating oil for a couple days but it's still stuck. And it's a fairly new slave too, replaced maybe a year ago. It's been in a box since I pulled everything apart. 

 

Any tips in getting it loose?

[wayno]

Find a heavy long sleeved flannel shirt or mechanics overalls, wrap the slave in it with the hose sticking out, put an air hose with a fine tip in the end of the hose and pull the trigger, it should fly out of the shave housing, if it is rusty inside lightly hone it using brake fluid and rinse it out then put it back together.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Your clutch slave? Doesn't the clutch slave have the hose attach at the end of the cylinder (not on the side)? If so, you could remove the hose and push the piston out with a phillips screwdriver. Or you could always try blowing it out with air, but this has obvious pitfalls.

[difrangia]

I soaked and used compressed air to try to get the piston out of a 320 slave cylinder with no success. Finally drilled a hole in the center of piston, tapped it (probably 3/8-16 NC) and used a piece of allthread rod to mechanically pull it out. There are only small port through fitting holes in the end of the cylinder; not really big enough to push through. Here's a kit that includes the piston to rebuild the cylinder with.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lower-Clutch-Cylinder-Repair-3-4-Kit-fits-Nissan-Datsun-411-510-520-Pickup-01/271528010535?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

 

Edited August 11, 2019 by difrangia

[datzenmike]

Very generally cars without torsion bars are on the side and cars and trucks that do have torsion bars are on the ends for more clearance. Either will work.

 

On 8/10/2019 at 9:51 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

 

One trick I learned to keep old drum brake systems healthy is to install a 2# residual valve in the brake line. This helps keep the lip seals in the wheel cylinders pushed tight against the cylinder wall, which helps keep moisture out and the cylinders from failing. This is a common modification that builders have been using for decades. I learned about it the hard way when the "new" brake system in my 320 Datsun started leaking at the wheels after only 3 years. I originally used all OEM parts, and was shocked to see the leak after such a short amount of time. Some other builder told me about the residual valve trick, and it solved the problem.

 

I go out once a month in the off season and pump the brakes and clutch pedal. Funny thing about hydraulics... they work best and keep working if used. Most of my VW 'dune buggies' had no brakes if they sat for the winter.

[datzenmike]

6 minutes ago, difrangia said:

I soaked and used compressed air to try to get the piston out of a 320 slave cylinder with no success. Finally drilled a hole in the center of piston, tapped it (probably 3/8-16 NC) and used a piece of allthread rod to mechanically pull it out. There are only small port through fitting holes in the end of the cylinder; not really big enough to push through. Here's a kit that includes the piston to rebuild the cylinder with.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lower-Clutch-Cylinder-Repair-3-4-Kit-fits-Nissan-Datsun-411-510-520-Pickup-01/271528010535?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

 

 

I bought a Nissan kit years ago for $12 and it had that plus the nipple and a rubber push on cover for it, in fact, everything but the casting and the push rod. After '72 or anything without the adjustable push rod that spring is not used.

[320 Newb]

Any idea of that Nissan kit is still available? Part number?

 

Pushing the slave piston out from the hose hole was the ticket but that SOB was really froze? It took a hammer to tap it out. Luckily the bore looks smooth with no pitting.

 

I was looking online and saw you can put a zerk fitting on and use a grease gun to push it out but that sounds like a mess. 

 

My master is not moving great either some I'm going rebuild it as well. I took out the retaining clip out of the back end but I can't figure out how to get the piston all the way out. Is there any easier way than drilling it and tapping to get that piston out?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If the piston in the master moves, tilt it on end and fill it up with WD40 then work it back and forth until (hopefully) you get it loose enough to remove the piston. Again, you could try blowing it out with air. Just cover the end with a rag to catch the flying parts. Hopefully you don't have to resort to this.

[320 Newb]

Here's a pic of the master with the stuck piston. I take it the embossed 5/8 means it's a 5/8" bore? Will any 5/8 bore repair kit work? Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-260-10513-Reservior-Cylinder-Rebuild/dp/B003XVEELE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=5%2F8+bore+master+repair+kit&qid=1565552703&s=gateway&sr=8-3

[wayno]

That is a master cylinder, the slave cylinder is down on the transmission.

[320 Newb]

7 minutes ago, wayno said:

That is a master cylinder, the slave cylinder is down on the transmission.

Yeah that was a typo. I forced the slave piston out but the master pictured above is still stuck. 5/8 bore when I look for a repair kit correct? It's really stuck to I think I'm going to drill, tap, and pull. 

[wayno]

I would try everything possible before drilling and tapping it, use air first.

Before using air I would lightly hone what I could get to first, that way once it starts coming out there will be nothing for it to get stuck on.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yeah, good point. Push the piston in as far as you can get it and then hone it.

[difrangia]

Kinda like cutting the ring groove out of the top of the engine cylinders to get the pistons out the top.

[wayno]

I did this today, I didn't want to cut or straighten out the stock metal piece sticking up.

 

Here it is on the screen and mounted, unfortunately the seal is not tall enough.

 

You can see it doesn't touch the underside of the hood.

 

I updated my 1963 Datsun 320 thread with what I did today concerning the vent screen.

Edited August 14, 2019 by wayno