Jump to content

New 320 owner, 62?


320 Newb

Recommended Posts

motor-trans.jpg
 

Set the motor/trans to hang new exhaust while I'm waiting for new clutch parts. Also replaced the transmission mounts with new 1980s Volvo mounts. Did the front suspension/ball joints and will hopefully get the cab back from paint in the next couple weeks. 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

IMG-6131.jpg

 

IMG-6130-HEIC-1.jpg

 

Got my wheels and hand brake pieces back from powder coating. I've also been working on my wire harnesses and just sandblasted my tail light buckets to repaint enamel gloss white for a little brighter tail light. 

Edited by 320 Newb
  • Like 3
Link to comment
7 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Crazy wheel color. I love it!

It matches the body color. It's a pretty good match on a Datsun stock color I pulled off a dealer chart from the mid-60s. 

 

IMG-6078-HEIC.jpg

 

On the cab floor and inside firewall I used a tintable bed liner:

 

IMG-6127.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
1 hour ago, jetattblue said:

That looks fantastic! Good job.

 

How did you get the transmission to connect to those circular mounts? The rubber in my original mounts is terrible, so I'd love to have a solution for that.

I took a stock mount to the local parts place and went through the paper books to find mounts that had center studs out both ends. The rounds ones I ended up using are 1980s Volvo mounts. They are the right height and right stud placement but I think I had to bore the frame holes out a little to accept the larger diameter studs. Also the top studs were too tall so I had to cut it down a little. 

 

I'm not positive but this might be it:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-auto-trans-mount-1221967-1221968?ads_cmpid=352577839&ads_adid=22972759279&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85227243679&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-45686896648&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-fOzjvCJ4wIVDtRkCh2QzwwcEAQYASABEgLojvD_BwE

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Your transmission doesn't appear to be connected to them mounts in the photo, did you make special transmission mount brackets?

To me it looks like the transmission is being held up with a floor jack in this photo, can you take a better photo of the finished mount?

motor-trans.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I had the stock brackets off in that pic to sandblast them and paint. Here's a pic with it installed on the stock brackets:

 

IMG-6139.jpg

 

The chassis and bed are off to the shop. I'll drop the cab over the motor trans tomorrow. Any tips on how to deal with the steering column and shift linkage?

 

IMG-6141.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I would probably install the column and steering box in the cab first and then drop them down onto the chassis with the cab. Probably not how the factory did it, I bet they slid the cab in from the rear and then installed the bed.

 

Great idea. I can put is far through the firewall as possible then strap it down.

 

Another question. I replaced all the tie rod ends but all the steering linkage is loose until I put the steering box back in. When I tighten down all the tie rod ends to then need to be torqued to spec or do I just tighten them until they seat and the castle nut is past the cotter pin hole? Any tips on putting the steering linkage back together?

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Before you get too far along, there is a solution for the boot around the steering column. Make a steel plate with a large grommet and put it on the column before it goes into the truck. Fasten the plate to the firewall and seal it with some of that gummy window sealant.

 

Yeah, that's not going to work, you've already painted the body.

Link to comment

Not yet.  I've been working on this off and on for over a year now.  

 

I'm on my second iteration.  I had the part 3D rendered, then 3D printed in rigid plastic.  I created a silicone mold from the printed blank but when I cast the parts with flexible urethane they came out with thin spots and/or missing areas (see below).  

 

So I had it 3D rendered again, with thicker walls.  Then 3D printed again.  My next step is to pour another mold using higher durometer silicone, which should maintain the thin walls better.  Once I have the mold I can cast the parts and hopefully they come out right.  

 

failed%20parts.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.