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  • Gender
  • Location
    SE Oklahoma
  • Cars
    78 620 Longbed, '63/64 NL320, '64 Beetle Type 117 Ragtop, 61 FIAT 500D, 3 Vespa Scooters
  • Interests
    Unique cars, microcars, military sidearms, violin refurbishment
  • Occupation
    C/NC Programmer; Retired

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  1. Just saw this Nissan commercial on the tube and it has a nice red pre-320 pickup. Who's truck is this ?? https://www.ispot.tv/ad/OhJ3/nissan-60-years-in-30-seconds-featuring-brie-larson-song-by-fatboy-slim-t1?fbclid=IwAR3aV6JLt5pEE6zzi-PVNZzwfplt0R6Cn_Lh1knKWMQtGtqNK8oHVu4GVjQ
  2. What goes on in the cave, doesn't necessarily stay in the cave. 'Mighty Mouse' & the Bug'. Both born in 1964. There's a 1964 Vespa scooter in there somewhere too. 'Longbed' Party Time !!
  3. Mike, I saw what you did there !! with that former-Chevy-owner thingie; but it absolutely has to be red RTV and way more than needed for full effect !!
  4. difrangia

    Brake lights

    The 61-62 Ford switch was what I used on the Datsun 320. This is the switch that I used. Your parts store should be able to cross-ref. it to another brand if this one is not available.
  5. difrangia

    Brake lights

    The hydraulic mechanism is called a sender or sensor and is just a switch activated by hydraulic pressure that closes the circuit to the brake lights. I added a pic of my engine compartment before the rebuild when the original switch was still in place. I'm not familiar with the 2-Series pickups but the sender very could be on the master cylinder, either from factory or placed there by an owner/mechanic over the years. Our 64 VW Bug has the pressure switch on the end of the master cylinder opposite the pushrod. BTW I replaced the pressure switch with one from a 1961-62 Ford car prior to changing to the mechanical switch. I believe that I still have the packaging for the Ford switch, should you like a part number/brand for cross reference.
  6. difrangia

    Brake lights

    On 320's the hydraulic switch is in one port of the brass 'T' fitting that bolts to the tab on front edge of the cowl shelf just above the distributor and just left of the hood strut rod when viewed from the front of the vehicle. I did away with mine and added a mechanical switch under the dash on the brake pedal arm.
  7. If that were a regular pickup of the same model it would be very uncommon and collectible. The very early 520 with the single larger headlight on each side are much more uncommon than the four smaller headlight models. Being a camper conversion, and what was a very nice and complete one makes it even rarer. Granted, it might have limited appeal, the 'Right' caretaker really needs to acquire it. If I were interested in that kind of project, I'd locate the largest E-J series engine that I could come up with and change the rear axle ratio for more cruising speed for driveability. Keep all the original parts with the machine for future caretakers. One mans opinion. As far as driving it home across country, a person would need to be well-heeled (financially flush with $$) or retired or have no requirement to hold a steady job and also have plenty $$ to get it ready for that trip. You'd either need to be able to pay someone, who you'd trust, to get it ready for the trip or travel to the source and borrow/rent/lease a facility with all the required tools to do what needed to be accomplished to get it ready and lodge/feed yourself during the process. Practicality wins in the end. Nice find though.
  8. Two guitars and an Angel; Ravi Shankar's daughter.
  9. This one snuck up on me the other night in the shop; played on the classical station that I have on most of the time. Swedish musicians.
  10. Pedal free-play should give you a reading on if you have a push-rod problem. I think that Mike mentioned the necessity of having the master piston return to the fully retracted position and have a specified amount of free-play. There is a small hole in the top of the master cylinder bore just in front of the piston cup when it is in fully returned position. This allows any pressure that might be built up in the system downstream of the master to relieve back to the reservoir and balance the system. The little hole also allows the system to add fluid to the system when needed. What I'm saying is that the piston needs to be returning to the fully retracted position when the pedal in full return position. I'm assuming that you have all original or near so equipment in the system. Since refurbishing the hydro clutch and the brake system our 320 upgrading to dual circuit and rebuilding the clutch system on the 620 'Longbed' I've become partial to bleeding the system backward from the usual practice of bleeding from the master reservoir to each terminus of the system. I did those systems pumping fluid backward to the reservoir. Where you have to be careful doing it this way is pumping old fluid with debris back into the master if the upstream system is new and downstream is old.
  11. Two-cylinders, air-cooled. My kinda car !!
  12. Thanks, Newb, those will be available long after we're all dead and gone !! That link is for the accelerator cup only. Did you use a new pump rod that the cup mounts on and can you post a part number ? Great info for all those who want to keep their Datsuns from the 'Nikki Carby Era' going and close to original.
  13. That's good automobile-detective work, Moses. How bout some manufacturer/part number, source info. I always archive info like this in a Word file that I keep for the Datsuns for future use or helping out other old Datsun caretakers.
  14. Right, Matt. The sender is in the lower right front of the head. I can't remember if those three holes are blind or through into the water jacket but I believe blind.
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