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About difrangia

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    SE Oklahoma
  • Cars
    78 620 Longbed, '63/64 NL320, '64 Beetle Type 117 Ragtop, 61 FIAT 500D, 3 Vespa Scooters
  • Interests
    Unique cars, microcars, military sidearms, violin refurbishment
  • Occupation
    C/NC Programmer; Retired

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  1. Matt, 1:30-2:00 PM EVERY day is 'Tinnie-Time' around our house/shop. A milestone in any project can be occasion for various mental lubrications. Every machine needs it's proper lube to keep running properly. You're a professional as evidenced by projects that you've posted here and on your sites. Generally, the customer doesn't need to see the 'Trade Secrets' of the artisian. Kinda like christening a ship; over & over just to be sure you got it done right.
  2. I can't say that this is a distinct possibility, but I'm thinking that the six-screw heads can be changed to the two-rocker-tower-studs cover by changing out two studs with longer ones for the two-stud cover and gasket. Most people would say "Why in Hell would anyone want to engineer backwards" ?? Well I ani't most people but didn't need to on the 320 cover on mine. Our 320 has the original E1 going by the cowl tag, but seems to have had some updates over the previous owners. Has the two-stud rocker cover head but has spin-on foil filter. Those are temporary bolts in the Pic during build-up; n
  3. Silicone gasket cured mine after three cork gaskets failed. Mine has the cover secured by the two rocker tower studs. I was able to source a British application gasket. If you would, Rusty, post back where you find the silicone gasket for the cover with six screws securing it. The silicone gaskets seem pricey, but $$ is not the only measure of pricing. Steve
  4. I'd think twice about using stainless nuts on stainless studs, especially on exhaust. Stainless on stainless might have a tendency to gall/seize, in the hot/cold environment of the exhaust system. Brass nuts with Never-Seize paste and SS or carbon-steel studs is what I'd consider.
  5. Nissan -> Datsun -> Nissan https://www.americanthinker.com/articles/2021/04/the_coming_rebranding.html
  6. I can post a pic of my original mat as needed.

  7. I have a 90% + complete column-shift original mat for a model if someone comes up with a vendor than can reproduce. Floor-shift is another issue.
  8. I like the original rubber mats too, Moses. There more functional if the vehicle is going to be used regularly and at least lightly 'Worked'. In addition, like you've posted, the rubber mat is not available anywhere. Saying that, the carpets are just perfect; not too fancy, functional, and done in more or less 'period correct' material that is durable and probably easy to maintain. Sections can be replaced if some disaster befalls any area instead of the whole floor covering. Well thought out, Moses. Just like the rest of your little pickup project, 'Better Than it Left the Factory
  9. J13 and E1 engines are both SAE threads, so if the engines that you are scouting out are J13's, Identified by the cast-in '1300' on the left side of the crankcase above the fuel pump as you've already identified yours, then you have no worries. Sounds like you may be onto a wealth of spare parts if transporting them is not a big $$ issue. The only gear issue that you'd need to keep in mind, that I'm aware of, is the distributor/oil-pump/camshaft gears and it sounds like you're not that deep into the engine. I can't recall the point at which the change-over was, but it was during t
  10. The engine in the pic is the original E1 in our 320 with it's original head and with the MGA alloy cover. I'm sure that the Britt head will fit on your J engine. I'm thinking that where you have to watch out on mixing British and Datsun J & E engine stuff is on the threads and gears. I believe that the crankshaft stroke (therefore the engine block deck height is different; pistons are the same in E-1200 and J-1300) is the major difference in the E & J series engines. I've never messed with a J engine. Distributor is a 1978 Datsun 620 'remote module' electronic, as opposed to 'Matchbox'
  11. Someone has run that poor feller without water for way too long at some time in the past. If you do go with the Britt head, you can use one of these alloy covers unless you want to stay strictly original look.
  12. I shouda took more shots of the head when I rebuilt the E1. This is the best I could find of the combustion chamber & valves/seats right after I lapped them in after grind. Guides & valves were all new. I'm freshening up my 1600cc VW for the 1964 Bug right now and it has 12K-15K on new heads that was rebuilt 18 years ago. I'll lap the valves and see how they turn out.
  13. Comparison of clutch plates for 320 transmissions. column-shift on left and floor-shift on right. Note differences in diameters and input shaft configuration.
  14. Most larger cities have a shop that rebuilds/re-lines friction components (brakes, clutches, etc.). I used one in Tulsa about fifteen years ago to re-line the brake shoes on the little two-cylinder BMW 600 Limousine when I was refurbing the brakes/suspension/drive-line. These vendors service a lot of industrial and heavy equipment that off-the-shelf parts are not always readily available for.
  15. This data sheet developed by Andy in Kansas has some good information for parts for the column-shift 320 pickups.
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