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  • Location
    SE Oklahoma
  • Cars
    78 620 Longbed, '63/64 NL320, '64 Beetle Type 117 Ragtop, 61 FIAT 500D, 3 Vespa Scooters
  • Interests
    Unique cars, microcars, military sidearms, violin refurbishment
  • Occupation
    C/NC Programmer; Retired

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  1. difrangia

    Stuck float?

    True that, Wayno, on the ethanol/gasoline in older and small aircooled engines. The only mechanical device that we subject to ethanol-gas is the 2018 Ford Edge.
  2. difrangia

    Stuck float?

    All our older engines get a little shot of Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel; about an ounce per two gallons on about every other refuel. If they just get infrequent use, I also give them a little shot of Marine Grade Stabil (blue Stabil).
  3. You can measure the freeze-plug bores and acquire them individually. Here's the set that did my E1 about eight years ago.
  4. I never saw one done with the crank still in, but my dad spoke of it several times. The crank has to be loosened and dropped a little. There is a contraption like a 'Chinese Finger Trap' that grips the end of the seal material and pulls it into the groove with the crank dropped down a little. I'd never attempt to do one with the crank in. Secret to success is getting the rope fully seated into both halves of the cap and block and getting the excess trimmed just the right amount extra on the ends to compress the two seal halves together but not get any material between the mating surfaces of the main cap and block. Also when both halves have been trimmed to the correct length, rotating the whole shebang a little like Matt stated, I believe that I rotated mine about ten degrees, helps insure chances for not having a leak. I did see at one time that an aftermarket lip-seal conversion was developed for the British engines that are very similar to the E and J series Datsun engines.
  5. Our 1963 build NL320 with original engine that matches cowl tag has the rope seal. Just as Matt posted proper installation is imperative. Search out a mechanic that is at least 80 years age that knows what he is talking about on proper installation. There area number of vids on Youtube covering the subject. The first year or two for the Chevy small-block V8 still had rope crank seal. I think Pontiac was about the last US manufacturer to use them. The wider groove on the pic that I'm attaching is where the seal goes on our E1. The narrow groove has the oil-slinger flange on the crank between the bearing and the rope-seal and has the drain hole back into the sump. With a lot of study and going slow and being careful I haven't had a drop visibly leak out the back of the crank. I converted the timing cover to lip seal and do get a drop now and then. Don't know if it is from the seal or the front of the pan. My dad was a Chevy dealer mechanic through the 1950's and he always referred to the rope seals as 'Dog Turd' seals. I've seen him put a ton of them in when I was a kid.
  6. Probably fifteen years ago I had some chrome work done on a pair of Hella side-marker light lens for the Messerschmitt Kabineroller that I was messing with. I probably still have an article on the stuff and I'll look for it. They came out real nice. I'd bet there are places that are pretty good at chroming plastics. Search around 60's-70's muscle-car forums and websites. A lot of those muscle-cars had plastic dash bezels and other interior plastic parts that were chromed.
  7. I fitted the disc-brake front conversion from 'Bluehands Mike' on our 320 with his spacers ( 3/16" or 1/4" thick ) and had to do a light grind on a few of the rivets to get them to clear the calipers. Highly recommended upgrade for the old 'ox-cart' 320 chassis, in my opinion. When I can finally plug in a 4:11 third member on the 320, I'll be done with the mechanical part. Probably never live long enough to get all the bodywork done, but it's a sweet ride now if you're not in a hurry and don't have far to go.
  8. Looks like the little pickup had some real loving caretakers over it's sixty years. Generally pickups have at least a few battle scars to the bumpers, grille, lower edges/rockers, and bed top edges. Looks like even weathering was it's worst enemy over the years. Great subject for preservation.
  9. difrangia


    Thanks for the new part # info. The 6 in the part # is for the length. They make senders in various lengths and ohm ranges to suit different gage systems. I see that your pickup is a 222. It probably uses the same sender as the 320 but I don't know that for sure. The bolt pattern in the tanks is an industry standard pattern and the sender only fits in one way as the pattern is not totally symmetrical. That's no problem with the Classic instruments unit due to it's design.
  10. difrangia


    9mm Parabellum 'Critical Defense' round. I was probably using it to prop something up on a specific angle for another photo that I was taking at that time. I have numerous mechanical objects laying around on the workbenches that contain aesthetic value to me as inspiration when I work on projects. For me there is immense history in the parabellum round. For most people they just go BANG !! and tag something downrange. For my part, if it required rewinding the sender, I'd most likely go with the Classic Instruments unit that I posted up-thread. That's what is in my tank.
  11. difrangia


    Pic of the inside of the original sender. If you're real careful, you can take some fine sandpaper and clean the side/sides of the coil that the contact finger makes contact with and carefully spring the finger away from the coil and brighten up it's contact surface. Check the ohms while you have it apart. Should be near 0-ohm when the float is fully down and about 90-ohm when it is fully up. You can see the exploded coil laying out between the senders. This is the one that I rewound with new wire. I had to calculate the total length of the wire on the coil and acquire the correct diameter & resistance wire to do the job. The other pic is the core for the coil mounted in the tool that I built to re-hair and re-wind violin bows with. The tool is made from oak wood and uses part of an old mechanical drill brace for the winding mechanism. Lot of work, but I learned a lot in the process.
  12. difrangia


    If Rustydawg is using a mechanical (capillary-tube) heat gage the grounding issue will not need to be considered.
  13. difrangia


    Electricity is my weak point, but all you say sounds correct to me, Matt.
  14. difrangia


    Whatever the sender is out of, if you have the sender in hand, take the cover off if necessary (it is on 320 sender as the resistance coil is inside the casting cavity) and take a look at the resistance coil. One end of the resistance coil will connect to the non-ground terminal of the sender and the other end terminates out in space. When the contact that is moved by the float is nearest the terminal end, that's zero or few ohms. When the contact is at the end of the coil furthest away from the terminal that is the high resistance position which is where the 320 sender is when the float is at the highest position in the tank. I did go through the effort to locate the correct resistance wire and rattle-can insulating enamel and re-wind one sender which worked. The gage has to match the sender in polarity and resistance for accurate reading. I'm not sure if reversing the polarity of the vehicle, and many 320's have been reversed, will affect the gage reading. Mine has been reversed and reads correct empty/full direction.
  15. difrangia


    When I studied the fuel gage system on our 320 several years ago seems that I finally determined that the Datsun & Nissan vehicles from the 60's to at least early 90's are 0-ohms at empty and 90-ohms at full. GM vehicles were the same from mid-60's to mid-90's. Here's link to a site to study a bit. I ended up with a new sender from Classic Instruments model # SN38T6 that is a direct bolt into the 320 tank. Beauty of the unit is that it doesn't have the float out on a arm to bounce around. Float is inside the tubular body of the sender. Tiny little hole in lower and upper area of tube maintains the fuel level inside the tube. The sender is about a hundred bucks. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm?ptype=results&category_id=159&mode=cat
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