New 320 owner, 62?

[320 Newb]

I made a new brake line from my clutch master to slave. Put a new cylinder in the master, bled it all... But when I hooked up my shift linkage and tried shifting through all the gears I'm having trouble. 4th and reverse are like butter. 3rd take a little force but goes in. And 1st and 2nd are nearly impossible to find. 

 

With the truck standing still (not running) should I need to push in the clutch to shift through all the gears? Maybe the clutch isn't bled well enough? Or maybe the linkage needs adjusting?

 

I had the column shift transmission rebuilt and this is the first time I tried to shift. I'm hoping it's not something inside the trans. 

 

Does anyone have any advice?

[wayno]

I would lube up the column linkage first.

Do you know where 1,2, 3, 4, rev gears are?

This transmission has a very weird shift pattern.

[320 Newb]

11 minutes ago, wayno said:

I would lube up the column linkage first.

Do you know where 1,2, 3, 4, rev gears are?

This transmission has a very weird shift pattern.

 

Yeah I drove it for about a year before I pulled everything apart so I know the shift pattern well. I'll try lubing it. I'll see if there's any adjusting I can do. Maybe my clutch isn't bled well?

[wayno]

Sometimes the gears don't align very well when the engine is not running, even reverse don't always go in for me on my 521 work truck without letting the clutch out a little to get the internal gears moving while it is running, it tends to grind a little because I got the gears moving to fast, it's a fine line.

Keep on mind of how that transmission selects gears, one of the levers selects the gear(neutral gate), the other lever puts it in gear, so if it goes into other gears easily then it should go into all the gears easily, this would make me think it was either the linkage or the column lever itself.

[320 Newb]

6 minutes ago, wayno said:

Sometimes the gears don't align very well when the engine is not running, even reverse don't always go in for me on my 521 work truck without letting the clutch out a little to get the internal gears moving while it is running, it tends to grind a little because I got the gears moving to fast, it's a fine line.

Keep on mind of how that transmission selects gears, one of the levers selects the gear(neutral gate), the other lever puts it in gear, so if it goes into other gears easily then it should go into all the gears easily, this would make me think it was either the linkage or the column lever itself.

 

Good call on the column lever I've been monkeying with it a ton. Not sure I have it right. It also had a broken spring inside I want to try and replace. I think the spring put tension on the lever towards the column to give some resistance on pulling it out to down into reverse. 

[adiehm]

On 8/3/2019 at 2:15 AM, difrangia said:

^ ^ ^  Yup, Matt, freaked me flat out to the point that I had to add a couple of freestander fuses.  ^ ^ ^

 

The engineroom was so drab and boring, but the two extra fuses jazz it up real good !!

 

Chek it out MT, I just put the tune-up sticker on. Love it and thanx !!

 

 

 

 

Love the Alloy Rocker cover. Where did you get that from?

 

[difrangia]

2 hours ago, adiehm said:

Love the Alloy Rocker cover. Where did you get that from?

 

 

It's late MGA / early MGB that I got from Victoria British in Kansas. You can probably get same cover from Moss Motors. Seems that it was about $70 and the deluxe chrome securing nuts were about $12-$15. I also ended up getting one of the silicone gaskets as I went through two or three cork gaskets that all seeped a little oil here and there. The gasket was about $20-$25 but, I figure, worth it. I did mount the 'Datsun 1200 tag off the original stamped cover on the alloy cover. There was a cast in octagon MG logo next to the Datsun tag that I drilled a hole through to mount the ventilation tube in.

 

I have a pic of the label with part number on the box that the alloy cover came in that I can dig up if you'd like it. I believe that I posted a pic of the label in my 'Mighty Mouse' build thread in the 320 forum here.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Hey Steve, there's a Twin Cam MGA for sale out here. The guy only wants $17k for the whole car. Imagine the twin cam head in your 320!!!

[difrangia]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Hey Steve, there's a Twin Cam MGA for sale out here. The guy only wants $17k for the whole car. Imagine the twin cam head in your 320!!!

 

Matt, Damn, there ya go triggering fantasies again !!

[320 Newb]

 

Badges!

 

Also I did a handful of new break lines and swapped in DOT 5 but on my last bleed I think I let my reservoir get too low and might have drawn in a little air. My pedal seems kinda hard but not sure if its hard enough. If I do another bleed should I take the line off the master and rebleed the master first before rebleeding each wheel?

 

I'm super happy about the DOT 5 switch because it's hard to work clean bleeding brakes by myself. Piece of mind knowing a rouge drip or fingerprint isn't going to mess up my paint. 

 

[difrangia]

Last couple brake & hydraulic clutch systems that I've filled/bled, I charged them from the wheel/slave cylinder back to the master. I realize the issue of pushing old fluid from an older wheel/slave and the lines back into a new master cylinder, but if it is an all-new system, I convinced that for me it is the only way to go. I acquired a good quality metal lever-operated oil can that I use for the charging. I wrap a layer or two of teflon plumbing tape on the threads of the bleeder fitting, screw back into the wheel/slave cylinder to bottom and back off bout quarter turn,  and charge that branch of the system through it. 

Edited October 20, 2019 by difrangia

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Steve, that is probably the best way to bleed brakes.

 

I work clean anyway, so I don't worry too much about spilling or dripping brake fluid.

 

Those badges look really nice.

[delariva]

I haven't checked your build in a long time. WOW! you have done awesome work since I last checked in. Really impressive stuff man. I am excited to keep going back further once I get off work. For now, I need to log off before your build gets me fired haha. 

[320 Newb]

Pretty excited to get my engine compartment wired up and motor fired and idling nicely. My glass bowl fuel filter was sucking a little air and I was afraid to over tighten it but I finally found the sweet spot. 

 

Hit a big setback though...

 

1. My trans won't shift through all the gears. I can find 4th and R when it's not running.  2. My clutch pedal is hard and slave cylinder seems to be working properly but something isn't engaging. When I have it sitting in 4th, push the clutch to the floor, it doesn't roll. 3. When the motor is running I can't get it into any gear (again clutch not engaging).

 

I put all new MG clutch stuff in it but maybe something's not right? Maybe my shift linkage isn't quite right? Any other ideas or suggestions where to start? I hate to pull my trans out througgh the cab with fresh paint sounds like scratch city. 

 

[320 Newb]

Has anyone pulled a transmission out through the trans tunnel without taking out the motor?

[difrangia]

Here's link to a good build thread in which the trany removal that you're askin about was done. It's over on NICO forum with a lot of good info. This is by Andy in Kansas who has bout half a dozen 320's. Don't believe that he's on Ratsun.

 

https://forums.nicoclub.com/running-on-a-budget-63-pl-320-t586738.html

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Clutch not disengaging, you mean?

 

#1 - So can you start the truck and then put it into gear while running?

 

#2 - If in gear, can you push in the clutch and then start the engine?

 

#3 - Does it go into all gears while not running?

 

#4 - If in gear, does depressing the clutch pedal allow the truck to be pushed?

 

If yes to #1, #2, and #4 then not a problem with the clutch.  If yes to #3 then probably not trans (though not definitive)

 

Try putting the truck up on stands and have someone roll the wheels while you try to engage a gear (without engine running, without pushing in clutch pedal). Can you find all gears this way?

[datzenmike]

On 11/3/2019 at 2:06 PM, 320 Newb said:

 

 

1. My trans won't shift through all the gears. I can find 4th and R when it's not running. 

2. My clutch pedal is hard and slave cylinder seems to be working properly but something isn't engaging. When I have it sitting in 4th, push the clutch to the floor, it doesn't roll.

3. When the motor is running I can't get it into any gear (again clutch not engaging).

 

I put all new MG clutch stuff in it but maybe something's not right? Maybe my shift linkage isn't quite right? Any other ideas or suggestions where to start? I hate to pull my trans out througgh the cab with fresh paint sounds like scratch city. 

 

 

2  & 3 Clutch is NOT disengaging. You are still connected to the engine. Try a slow shift into reverse and I bet the gears don't stop grinding.

[320 Newb]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Clutch not disengaging, you mean?

 

#1 - So can you start the truck and then put it into gear while running?

 

#2 - If in gear, can you push in the clutch and then start the engine?

 

#3 - Does it go into all gears while not running?

 

#4 - If in gear, does depressing the clutch pedal allow the truck to be pushed?

 

If yes to #1, #2, and #4 then not a problem with the clutch.  If yes to #3 then probably not trans (though not definitive)

 

Try putting the truck up on stands and have someone roll the wheels while you try to engage a gear (without engine running, without pushing in clutch pedal). Can you find all gears this way?

 

Clutch prob for sure. When in gear it doesn't roll when clutch pushed. I started it in 1st with the clutch in and it jumped.

 

I pulled the trans out through the trans tunnel  and I'm not sure if it's bench shifting right. I just don't have the feel as a newbie. It goes into some gears but not sure it goes into all and not sure how consistently. Just to be safe I think I'll take it to a trans place to take a look. 

 

For reference if anyone wants to pull out a 320 trans out through the tunnel without moving the motor forward the key is unbolting the trans mount brackets off the frame. That gives you the space you need to pull it back to clear the shaft, then tip it up and out. 

[Conner]

What clutch did you install?  

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, 320 Newb said:

 

Clutch prob for sure. When in gear it doesn't roll when clutch pushed. I started it in 1st with the clutch in and it jumped.

 

 

 

Did you use the old clutch release bearing collar???with the new pressure plate?? Is yes, it's too short and the slave is running out of travel and the pressure plate is not releasing enough.

[320 Newb]

4 hours ago, Conner said:

What clutch did you install?  

I don't remember exactly but it was a british kit that fit the splines/shaft diameter. Maybe something MG or Austin?

 

@datzenmike are you talking about the throw-out bushing? If so I put in a new one that came with the kit. But your theory about not having enough travel to release the pressure plate is what it feels like it's doing. 

[datzenmike]

This part, the thing that the bearing press onto that fits onto the end of the clutch arm...

 

They are matched to the pressure plate. Also called the carrier or release collar.

[wayno]

His throw out bearing doesn't look like that, fact is there is no bearing, it is a perfectly flat disc that rests on another disc connected to the fingers of the clutch cover.

I will see if I have one to take a photo of.

[difrangia]

Mike, As I remember, the floor-shift throwout bearing assembly is completely different than the bearing and carrier assembly that you posted above. I'm thinking that it has a carbon insert and doesn't have a ball or roller unit separate from the carrier like the later floor-shift system has. This useful sheet is some of Kansas Andy's work. Most on this thread know that Moss Motors and Victoria British are Austin/Morris & MG part suppliers. 

 

Edited November 10, 2019 by difrangia