New 320 owner, 62?

[wayno]

This is what he is supposed to have, there is no bearing.

 

 

I have no idea what he has now, or how it could even be changed out.

[datzenmike]

Oh lord what was I thinking?

 

[320 Newb]

Thanks everyone. I used that build and parts list Andy put together and I've been in contact with him. I haven't pulled the clutch off yet but I'm hoping it's something simple like I put the disk in backwards. When I bench shift the trans I goes into a couple gears easily but I'm not sure it shifts well through all 4. I might take it to a trans shop to get a 2nd opinion. 

[wayno]

Putting the disc in backwards would definitely cause shifting issues, but it would also cause assembly issues, when put in position the disc would not lay flat on the flywheel and it would not effect the transmission shifting when the engine was not running either.

What does the throw out bearing look like in that kit?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Are you using the flywheel that came with the engine? And the trans that was bolted originally to the engine?

 

Just making sure you don't have a mix-match issue.

[320 Newb]

Same flywheel. I had it turned. 

 

Wayno the new throwout bearing looks just like the old one, just like yours. I kept all the old stuff so I'll compare as I break it down tomorrow. 

[320 Newb]

Got it! Actually my little bro came and bailed me out. The pressure plate has a 3 finger adjustment and you can access them through a window in the bottom of the trans. With a new disk and new throw-out everything was packed too tight in there. Adjusting the pressure plate gave it room to spin. 

 

Now I've got to adjust the shift linkage. First gear is fighting me. 2-4 shift like butter. 

[wayno]

It has nothing to do with the clip on the photo, correct?

 

 

I don't have a clutch cover to look at, where is the adjustment?

 

Edited November 12, 2019 by wayno

[wayno]

OK, I found what I have, you have the clutch cover on the right?

[320 Newb]

Yep, on the right do you see those three slots housed in a nut? They raise and lower that center ring. You can get to them one at a time through that window. You have to manually turn that flywheel to get access to all three. I used the big nut on the front of the motor to crank it around. 

 

My stock adjusters were bottomed out but my throw-out was really worn. I think you have to adjust it as it wears. 

[difrangia]

This rubber vent insert is what goes in the adjusting window in the lower left side of the clutch housing of the transmission.

 

 

This would be something to reproduce like the vent window seal. I believe that maybe this went away when Datsun switched over to the sheet-metal bottom-pan transmission in September 1965.

[320 Newb]

With my rebuilt trans and new clutch tolerances are way tighter but I'm grinding a bit going into 1st and R when the motor is running. With the motor off it's shifting like butter, no grinding.

 

Will the transmission break in where 1 and R shift smoothly with the motor running? Or should I adjust the clutch a little more?

[difrangia]

If your master cylinder rod has adjustment capabilities, lengthen it out a turn or so and see if that makes it any better. Also insure that your pushing the clutch pedal completely down. I had to do a little adjusting on mine when I first got it back together.

[320 Newb]

Unfortunately it's a stock master with no adjustment. There's a screw on the pedal bump stop but I've got it bottomed out so I'm getting a full pedal stroke. I've also got the pedal bottomed out. 

[wayno]

Maybe you adjusted it too far the other way, you might have to back a little.

[320 Newb]

13 minutes ago, wayno said:

Maybe you adjusted it too far the other way, you might have to back a little.

I don't think so I adjusted it super light knowing the clutch disk and throw out will wear down. It's kind of a pain to adjust but maybe I just give it another tiny turn and see if it fixes the prob.

[wayno]

Maybe I didn't express what I posted in the last post properly, before you could not get it in gear and likely 1st and Rev would grind, you could not get it into the other gears because the synchro's would not let it get to the gear to grind as everything was spinning too fast and would not slow down because of disc friction.

So you adjusted the the clutch cover fingers closer to the throw out bearing so when you pushed in the clutch pedal it moved the fingers farther and that made more room for the disc which would be the same as installing a longer rod between the arm and clutch slave.

Now it is better but the disc still has friction, now you can adjust the fingers again to move the throw out bear even closer to the clutch cover so you have more arm movement to try to make space between the clutch cover and the flywheel, at some point it will release the disc completely and the disc will stop spinning, that will be the point where it will not grind in any gear as long as you wait for the disc to quit spinning.

I first of all before adjusting anything would have grabbed the clutch arm and as hard as I could I would have pushed it towards the clutch slave and seen if the rod sunk deeper into the slave, meaning the piston inside the slave was not bottoming out when the clutch pedal was not being pushed, if it did sink deeper into the slave and now the arm has play, well that would mean a longer arm was needed.

To fix this issue I would have either made a longer rod or I would have removed the rod and welded on the end of it to make it longer and re-installed it, I would have modified it till I had a 1/16th inch play in the rod when the piston in the slave was bottomed out, the spring pulling the arm back needs to be removed to see how much play the rod has.

Also as I recall you have had this truck completely apart, is there a possibility that you put the pedal assembly back in adjusted wrong and have less pedal travel than you did before? 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Whatever you do, make sure the pedal has a good 1/16" free play before it starts actuating the master cylinder. Bad things can happen if it is preloading the master.

 

Also, I believe there is an adjustment on the opposite side of the pedal box for pedal height adjustment. So two adjusters on the pedal. One at the firewall side and one at the steering wheel side.

[320 Newb]

Did a few more adjustments on the clutch pressure plate and used a feeler gauge to make sure all three fingers are adjusted equally. It shifts like a dream all gears. 

 

Quick gas tank wiring question: there are two wires that go up to the sender and a black ground with a ring terminal that comes off the harness right before those two wires. Where does the black ring termal bolt? I don't see anything on the chassis there. Gas tank bolt?

[wayno]

I just traced that wire on my L320, if you follow the 2 wires from the tank you will see that one of the wires goes into the rear harness and the other one with the ring terminal attaches to the inside of the chassis/frame just above the rear e-brake cable mount for that side.

Edited November 22, 2019 by wayno

[320 Newb]

Thanks Wayno appreciate it! Can you tell me where that ring terminal bolts down? Somewhere on the gas tank?

[wayno]

You don't understand, I have 2 wires that connect to the tank, one is brown but that wire was extended to reach the tank mounted in the bed, I do not know what color the wire is supposed to be, the other wire is black(also extended) is mounted to the sender body, that brown wire likely goes to the main harness, the black wire goes to the chassis/frame where I said in my last post.

 

 

You can see the single black wire in the photo below going to the inside of the frame, that is where it mounts, the other single wire that comes from the tank(brown wire) goes into the wiring harness, everything is wrapped in electrical tape so it's all black.

 

 

You can see where it is mounted in the photo below and the single wire going forward.

 

 

I only have 2 wires going to the tank, one comes from the frame/chassis and the other comes from the wiring harness, I believe if you were to un-wrap the the wires between the tank and that ring terminal you will find you also only have 2 wires going to the tank.

Edited November 22, 2019 by wayno

[320 Newb]

 

See the black wire with the ring terminal on the harness before the two fuel sender wires? If I come off the main harness across that back crossmember under the handbrake cables and pop up near the gas tank it puts that ring terminal somewhere in the gas tank region. It's too far to bolt to the chassis using those philips head screws on the frame rail. Or if it does connect on the frame rail I have some major re-adjusting on the wire harness to make.

[wayno]

I do not recall if you have had your harness out of the truck, but I have not removed mine, but I did extend my fuel tank wires, I did this because I made my L320 into a kingcab, I did a 15" extension as my tank is mounted in the bed of the truck because there was not enough room under the truck for the tank anymore.

 

I have a single wire going across that cross member from the passenger side and I don't believe I ever touched that ring terminal connected to the chassis/frame, I believe I extended my wires at the point where the wires originally connected to the tank, your just going to have to figure it out.

 

I just looked at my NL320 and it appears that ring terminal attaches in the same spot, but I don't see how one could even get to that screw as the tank is really close to the chassis/frame in that area, unless your going to remove the tank just to connect a wire I suggest you connect the wires to the tank and find a good place to ground out that ring terminal, it was connected to the chassis/frame at the factory, I suppose if you run a ground wire somewhere from the box to the frame and then you could ground that wire to the box, or better yet make an extension coming off the ring terminal and find a good place to ground the extension to the chassis/frame.

[320 Newb]

Yup I took all my harnesses out when I pulled off the cab and bed. I'm out of town for the week but when I get back I'll get back after it. I'll probably bold the ring terminal to the chassis where I think it goes then work backwards towards the passenger side and front. 

 

I'm on the downhill leg. I'm finishing up wiring while I'm waiting for chrome to come back then I'll hang the doors and put everything back together.