Let's try this again; flatcat's 521

[flatcat19]

Also...went for a long drive after all I had done today...no brake drag felt. 

 

 

 

Still don't have turn signals though. Crappy. 

 

Morning cruise tomorrow morning. Getting there. 

[thisismatt]

Have you narrowed down the fault in the signals?  The switches are fussy.  I think maybe too much current runs through them.  I've R&R'd a couple...kind of a pain.

[flatcat19]

Have you narrowed down the fault in the signals?  The switches are fussy.  I think maybe too much current runs through them.  I've R&R'd a couple...kind of a pain.

 

 

4 way flashers work...so a good part of the circuit is good. 

 

My signal switch has always been kind of wonky. No brights, no signals. 

 

 

 

Of all the tools I brought home this weekend...the only electrical tools I brought were a set of crimpers. Oh well. 

 

 

 

On the hunt now for a god turn signal switch. 

[thisismatt]

Yeah, sounds like your switch

[flatcat19]

Yeah, sounds like your switch

 

 

There is a guy on eBay that has one for sale. Pretty spending at $130. 

[thisismatt]

You just missed one for a lot less. I've bought a couple for about $45 shipped.

[flatcat19]

You just missed one for a lot less. I've bought a couple for about $45 shipped.

 

 

Do you really need 2 of them?

 

The guy on eBay states his is rebuilt and tested. They look sweet. 

Won't post a link. I don't want it to get swooped. I'm budgeting for it. 

[thisismatt]

 You could PM him on here, ask for a discount :P

dhp123166

[flatcat19]

I was wondering if that was him. Good job, Matt. 

[thisismatt]

Bought some NOS stuff from him in the past :)

[datzenmike]

If 4 ways work then wiring to, and the lamps are good. What a relief. The 4 way switch in the ON position disconnects the turn flasher and in the OFF position re-connects it. With all the problems with the headlamps/turn this is likely not it but...

 

 

Old Dodges you could put the 4 ways on, and turn the wipers on without the ignition key and they would jerk on and off about 4" at a time back and forth across the windshield. 

[thisismatt]

Pretty sure I've used the switch guts from a 510 for the 521.  The whole assemblies are very similar.

[denmarkboy]

just sharing ! 

 

[KoHeartsGPA]

There's a stop sign....fucking Washington drivers....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:poke:

[flatcat19]

Let's talk aboot overheating for a bit...

 

When I got my truck back, drove it home...60 miles. She ran warm the whole way. 

 

On the 521, the temp gauge says WATER. So the first night it was between the T and the E. Maybe E. 

When I got home that night: opened hood no pressure in hoses; radiator filled with coolant. 

Installed a new radiator cap the next day. Still did it. 

 

 

I was doing stuff a while later where I had to have the radiator out. When out I saw there was no thermostat. 

That surely has to be my problem. Replaced. 

While doing that I also noted that the coolant was super green with no contamination/crusties/funk. 

Problem still exists. 

 

 

Now...this isn't a normal overheating thing. 

At idle, runs normal, no over heating. Driving-hot. Come to a stop, drops back to normal. 

I'd think those should be reversed. 

No water in oil. No oil in water. Only a very tiny leak from back of motor. I see drops of coolant off the bellhousing every now and again. 

Got home today with temp gauge high. Placed hand on both hoses and kept it there. Not hot. Laid hand on rad. Not hot. WTF!

 

Anyways...I'm at a crossroads with what to do next. Kind of tossing this past you guys to see if I'm overlooking anything. 

Plans in the near future are to replace water pump, because I have one, and give the rad a soaking of CLR. 

[KoHeartsGPA]

Sounds like gauge issue, get an aftermarket gauge, gato.

 

My stock never agreed with the aftermarket one, aftermarket one agreed with digital laser temp device.

[bilzbobaggins]

Soft lower rad hose? Sticking thermostat? How accurate your think the gauge is?

[maltese]

Sounds like gauge issue, get an aftermarket gauge, gato.

 

My stock never agreed with the aftermarket one, aftermarket one agreed with digital laser temp device.

^^^this.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also, for shits and giggles, check your coolant mixture. Too much coolant + not enough water = higher operating temperature.

 

But you already knew that.

 

Probably not the issue since hoses are not hot.

[thisismatt]

Water pump, clog/restriction....

[datsunfreak]

Now...this isn't a normal overheating thing. 

At idle, runs normal, no over heating. Driving-hot. Come to a stop, drops back to normal. 

I'd think those should be reversed. 

No water in oil. No oil in water. Only a very tiny leak from back of motor. I see drops of coolant off the bellhousing every now and again. 

Got home today with temp gauge high. Placed hand on both hoses and kept it there. Not hot. Laid hand on rad. Not hot. WTF!

 

Anyways...I'm at a crossroads with what to do next. Kind of tossing this past you guys to see if I'm overlooking anything. 

Plans in the near future are to replace water pump, because I have one, and give the rad a soaking of CLR. 

 

Had this happen on two different 510s. Both had sludge in the radiator. Getting it boiled by a radiator shop out fixed the problem. 

 

Weirdest thing. They would usually only "overheat" on the freeway. As soon as you pull off the freeway the temp would go back down. 

[flatcat19]

Had this happen on two different 510s. Both had sludge in the radiator. Getting it boiled by a radiator shop out fixed the problem. 

 

Weirdest thing. They would usually only "overheat" on the freeway. As soon as you pull off the freeway the temp would go back down.

 

That's exactly my issue.

 

The day of gatoland we cruised all over town. Only high powered jaunt was when truck was cold.

Today though...hot to work. Hot from work.

 

The thing confusing me...nothing is in fact hot.

 

 

I'll go ahead and replaced pump and get radiator cleaned out.

[q-tip]

Something has to be plugged up somewhere, heat hoses hooked up and heater working?

[KoHeartsGPA]

What if you start replacing shit then at the end of the day it's the same story and then you find out your temp gauge was faulty?

 

I'm not saying.....but....just saying.....I did run into this....they are old gauges....just a thought!

[Draker]

Same here.. but mine was actually over heating..  :rofl:

 

 

Still aftermarket gauges are good.

[wayno]

OK, the first thing I would ask is did the thermostat you put in have a hole in it, I went back a few pages and seen you likely have an L16 with an L16 thermostat housing without a bypass, that means the thermostat needs a hole in it, the jiggle valve is not enough.

You see what happens is that the coolant in the head gets super hot before it can open the thermostat as the thermostat is outside of the head, and then when it finally opens everything cycles for a while till the thermostat closes, then it gets hot again inside the head while the radiator gets really cool till that thermostat finally opens again, at some point it will over heat, as the thermostat just won't open in time, as I had it happen to me, it blew a head gasket a couple months later.

My symptoms were it would not hold a stead temp, especially on the freeway, it would get really hot and then drop to almost cold, then creep back up till it was hot again and stay there for a while till the thermostat would finally open and the cycle would start again, it would mostly be semi hot most the time.

I put the bypass hose thermostat housing back on and all my troubles went away, to bad it cost me a head gasket.