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Gumby - Dragon Green 521


HOGIE

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Updates. I said I'd have some this weekend so here we go.

 

It will now be my dd!

 

Had to get back into the brakes, again

image_zpsfrh0uqwu.jpg

 

Found that the hardware was weak or improper. Whatever the case, new hardware and adjustment. Things are working much better. Also in the pic is my trans tunnel cover and new shifter boot that were installed today. I cut out a hole for the shifter, because long 5spd, and used it to cover the old hole, Daniel style!

image_zpsoagd81ze.jpg

 

Replaced the windshield and rubber. Went in really easy. I'm very happy that this is done

image_zps3qtuccpd.jpg

 

 

Made the leap of faith and pulled the Weber off my dd 620 and installed it in the 521. I realized there isn't any vacuum on the vacuum port coming off the Weber. Anyone have any ideas?

image_zpsvx9kla0l.jpg

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Vacuum will rise with RPMs.

Mine was the same way. I don't know why that is.. but runs ok. Not good for vacation advance.

It idles great stumble a little at acceleration and will give a backfire here and there.

 

I need to put a timing light to it and touch up the exhaust

 

Such a blast to drive! Trying to take it easy on test drives because of the heat but I was hauling ass all over today

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Is there a hole where one should be or is it plugged? Mine is coming off the side facing the motor. I have an old weber with one you could try to get out and press into yours.

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Is there a hole where one should be or is it plugged? Mine is coming off the side facing the motor. I have an old weber with one you could try to get out and press into yours.

 

I think the port is there, just reads zero at idle. 

 

I think I have a vid of mine. I'll check

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Is there a hole where one should be or is it plugged? Mine is coming off the side facing the motor. I have an old weber with one you could try to get out and press into yours.

 

It does have the vacuum port, just no suction, but....

 

 

 

I didn't check if it increased with rpm

 

I think the port is there, just reads zero at idle.

 

I think I have a vid of mine. I'll check

Yes vid please.

 

I'll be driving it over the next week so whatever issues there are will be figured out

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Hell fucking yeah!!!

He'll fucking yeah is right!

 

But just one exclamation point. It has a charging issue. Not sure yet what the problem is yet.

 

I checked the voltage while running and well below 12volts.

 

Battery took a charger just fine on the charger.

 

I've had similar issues on the 620 so I'm not scared. Battery connection, follow the power and alternator check in my near future

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Check the grounds, make sure your motor is grounded as well.

 

Check, check the grounds

 

looks like my truck.

 

make sure the T connector in back is hooked up. fuses good no ignition light. Othwise I take it in to get cked.

 

maybe reseat the voltatge regulator and if you buy a VR later get a solid state unit. Not the Napa ones

Charged batt, didn't get up to 12.5volts. Only 12.25volts, weak battery maybe?

 

After removing battery and just installing it again when running stayed at 12.18volts. Not charging? Or weak charge?

 

Did look at the T connection, will do again.

 

I have new batt cables. Going to install those and install my 70amp 200sx alternator that's on my 620, already planned on doing this but just haven't done it yet.

 

I'll check the connections to VR. How do I troubleshoot that it's working?

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To test an external regulated alternator, put it on the engine.   Do not plug the voltage regulator in, yet.  There should be a ground wire coming down from the negative battery cable connection to the cylinder head, down to the alternator.  There should be a second ground wire that goes into the wiring harness, this wire goes to one of the voltage regulator mounting bolts.  Do not connect the other wires to the alternator, yet.

Connect the battery cables to the engine.  Take a test light, connect the lead on the test light to the positive battery terminal.  Touch the probe on the test light to the big positive connection on the alternator.  The light should stay off.  If if stays off, disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.

 

Hook up the positive wire from the alternator.  On a 521, this is a short wire that goes to the lug on the starter, that the positive battery cable hooks to.

Take a wire with a female 1/4 spade connection, connect that wire to the "F" connection on the alternator.  Do not hook this wire to anything.  Start the engine, get it running at an idle.  Put a voltage meter on the battery.  Connect the wire that goes to the "F" connector on the alternator to the positive battery terminal, with the engine at an idle.  The battery voltage should go up.  CAUTION!  The only thing regulating the battery voltage with these connections is RPM.  Do not race the engine.   If the alternator puts out more than about 13.5 volts, with a slight increase in engine RPM, the alternator is good.

 

Turn off the engine.  Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Disconnect the wire to the "F" terminal.  Plug the "T" connector back on the alternator.  Plug in the voltage regulator.  Check other electrical connections.  Restart the engine, check battery voltage.  It should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts, after the engine has ran for a few minutes.  Note a stock Nissan voltage regulator will initially charge higher than 14.5, sometimes up to a little over 15 volts when the engine is first started.  This is normal. 

If you do not get 13.5 to 14.5 volts, and you know the alternator is good, from the previous test, the possible causes are bad wiring, or a bad voltage regulator.

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