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Gumby - Dragon Green 521


HOGIE

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Do you have too much brake fluid in the resovoir?

Oddly,even being barely above the full mark is not enough room for fluid expansion.

Ask me why I know this might be a problem on the 521. Yeah.

 

 

 

Yeah it needs room for expansion, and before taking stuff apart get temp gun to it and see if it really is getting hot...

The brake fluid is maybe a mm above max line. Backed the brakes off. Weak pedal. Need to spread them a bit. They seem to have worm and seated. No intermittent drag during single rotations

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  • 2 months later...

Edit: never mind, just gremlins

 

 

Been a while since it posted in this thread.

 

 

But when I got the truck the fuel gauge and temp gauge weren't hooked up, because electric right, and I've been rolling without. Has made for a little extra drama/excitement not having them but it's getting old.

 

Can someone post a pic of how this is suppose to be hooked up. Thanks

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  • 3 months later...

What do you mean "hooked up"? are the wires there? are you talking about the gauge cluster? or are you talking about the senders?

At the time I thought I was missing something about how to get the fuel and temp gauges to work on the instrument cluster. I had dash lights and turn signals but the fuel and temp gauges didn't work. I now realize that everything comes though the one pig tail and it had to do with bad connections

 

I edited that post back in Aug but thanks for the response

 

EDIT : never mind, just gremlins

 

Been a while since it posted in this thread.

But when I got the truck the fuel gauge and temp gauge weren't hooked up, because electric right, and I've been rolling without. Has made for a little extra drama/excitement not having them but it's getting old.

Can someone post a pic of how this is suppose to be hooked up. Thanks

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The 521 gauge cluster has a voltage regulator for the fuel/temp gauges, when both don't work it is usually the voltage regulator connections on the instrument cluster that are the issue.

The gauge cluster voltage regulator could be bad also.

The cluster also has a repair done by PO and again by me to reconnect a connect on the circuit board. I have another I got from a dude in MT for pretty cheap.

 

The fuel and temp work now so all is good

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  • 2 weeks later...

Need more truck pics :p

Adams back.

 

Here you go. These are from a few weeks ago. Right now it doesn't have the canopy on it, has a second wiper arm and I put some mirrors on. Also its covered in a rind of ice, fucken winter storm. I'll still be daily driving it

 

image_zpsi8dawgff.jpg

 

image_zpsqfnbqw1x.jpg

 

image_zpshijsqtey.jpg

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Lol. Nope. It's riding shot gun in a box with everything needed to install (hoses and such). To fucken dark and cold by the time I get off work to install it. Been using a windshield scraper on the inside to get frost off while at stop lights just to make it to work in the morning.

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I'll even use the 'just' and 'all' words. I love it when people say shit like that with these old Datsuns, because it never is

 

All I have to do it just clamp off the coolant bypass in a two places, bolt up heater box, then put the hoses on the core outlets, clamp the long hose, quickly pull hose off the back of the block and shove the little s-shaped hose on and then connect the long hose at the front of te block. Connect the heater switch and it's good

 

That's all... just

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Have you done anything to the heater assembly your gunna put in?

 

I like to tear the whole assembly down for a good clean and lube at the minimum while it's out of the truck. If your really feeling spunky a coat of fresh black paint for the housing and a coat of vinyl paint for the cover makes it all look tits IMO ;)

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Couple none essential project for the truck going on.

Getting back to the heater box rebuild. And piecing together a bench seat

Almost all the parts are ready for reassembly. Just missing one important pieceimage_zpsey2owcux.jpg

Painted the outside of te box. Tomorrow paint the inside and reassemble once it's dryimage_zpsaenpv6ni.jpg

I better get this back in track before you guys use a whole page talking about Caesars over the top shifter

Heater box rebuild cont..

I had the heater core repaired at the rad shop. It had been soldiered in the past and the repair failedimage_zpsngylf59y.jpg

Heat adjustment valve must have seized up in the past and the end was fucked up by a PO so I asked the fab guy at work to pile up some braze and then we used lathe to turn it back downimage_zpsukqkrplv.jpg

Heater adjustment valve got a new o-ring, the port got some honing with 220 and secured back in place with the tiniest copper set screw. I feel very lucky it made it through this processimage_zpsa85fecdw.jpg

Rebuilt heater fan motor, heater core wrapped in foam tape, and fan speed resistor coil back homeimage_zpsbgvoaaqm.jpg

Heater box front cover and non-custom off the shelf billet heater adjustment knob, looks good!image_zps3sj1mehe.jpg

I only need one more piece before it's complete and the homie is working on it. Like a champ!

Yup, exactly like that :D

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Installed the heater box today.

 

I made the upper hose like this thread outlines

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/61288-making-heater-hose-for-521-l16-engine/

 

image_zpstpooi5ze.jpg

 

Use an oem lower hose I got from Tina (vindats). No pic, you'al have seen one of those before.

 

 

It was so cold out I could only get the 1/2" hose barely start going over block outlet above the alternator so I topped off the radiator and started up the truck. I used the engine heat to get hose to expand enough to get the hose in place and clamped down. Connected to wire terminal connectors and switch. Motor works and since the block was already hot it blew hot air, shit yah!

 

In the process I dropped one of the one screws that hold the rubber duct in place and I could only find one of the defrost duct tubes, which I broken in half. Fuck! It was totally brittle. Also defrost/cab control handle had been removed previous to me and I need the hardware to remount it.

 

Good thing I have a FEW parts trucks. I'll have it buttoned up in a day

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  • 2 months later...

 

 

Edit: started a thread about this.

 

So it's time to talk coilovers. I've paid Beebani for his UCA and LCA assembly as well as the coilover mou ring brackets. They will ship soon so I need to decide on the coilovers I'm going to run. I've done my research and I've decided QA1 as other have done before.

 

These are what I'm looking at and will be using the QA1 7HT400 springs

 

 

I really couldn't find the specifics of what people used so if you've used these ad had issues or success please let me know.

 

QA1 Proma Star Double Adjustable Coil-Over Shocks

http://www.qa1.net/suspension/street-performance-racing-shocks-struts-and-pro-coil-systems/custom-mount-shocks/proma-star-double-adjustable

Thinking of using DD301 or DD303. Probably too expensive for me

 

Ultra Ride Coil-Over Shocks

http://www.qa1.net/suspension/street-performance-racing-shocks-struts-and-pro-coil-systems/custom-mount-shocks/ultra-ride-7031

Thinking of using US301. Not offered at US303 on there site.

 

Proma Star Single Adjustable Coil-Over Shocks

http://www.qa1.net/suspension/street-performance-racing-shocks-struts-and-pro-coil-systems/custom-mount-shocks/proma-star-single-adjustable

Thinking of using DS301 or DS303.

 

The 301's have a Mounting Recommended Ride Heigh, Spring Length, Compressed Height, Extended Height of 9.5-10", 7 ", 8.75" and 11.125", respectfully.

 

The 303's have a Mounting Recommended Ride Heigh, Spring Length, Compressed Height, Extended Height of 10.75-11.25", 7/8/9", 9.5", 12.75", respectfully.

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