datzenmike Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 I started a project thread in The Realm about 6-7 years ago that was really just a wish list and discussion about building an LZ23. I haven't added to it in years as nothing has happened and there was little info to add. I think about this motor all the time and Doug was good enough to give me a good block over a year ago. I have a nice set of used KA24E pistons from a wrecked S13 and a Z22 crank I've had for 10 years? Also several sets of L20B and Z22 rods... so the basic parts are all there. The best thing for a project is to start a Project Datto thread. It's self motivating in several ways. You feel like adding to it even if just a chime in about what you are thinking. Good place for pictures and info and maybe someone will correct a mistake or offer advice. So two days ago I asked a local NAPA where they get any machining done. It used to be in a shop right out back. They said a place 30 miles away. Yesterday I drove up to see them. I figure that if I don't have confidence in them what's the sense? I talked to a guy named Rick who slowly asked a lot of questions and I equally slowly answered that I was fitting KA pistons to a Z series block. Till then only saying Nissan. He asked what it was going in and I said my Datsun. A 510? No a 710. No shit I had one in high school! Well on we went for close to an hour about his dad's 620 that they built a motor for but try as they could they couldn't blow the old one up so they could change it. An hour spent looking their shop over. Apparently they have lots of experience converting Chrysler/Nissan diesels over for use as boat engines. So I mentioned that Nissan uses a BNP thread for the oil pressure senders and he gets this funny look. Says: we always have trouble with that and have to drill them out and tap them. Now it all makes sense. He had boxes of Nissan parts too. All in all a very pleasurable productive time spent. So I will be delivering my Z22 block and pistons to him. Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 looks like there is another to be brought into the fold... But anyway, I will race ya Mike, you get your motor built and I will try to get my AC and power steering in! :rofl: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 You win Don. 1 Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 I'm really looking forward to this thread! So are you taking the parts to the shop today? How long will it take them to do the work? Have you told them 1000s of Ratsuners will be seeing their work? I'm excited! :lol: Len Quote Link to comment
polski ogorki Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Cool Mike. I had a u67 rebuilt buy a guy in Courtney. I heard he sold his shop though? When you say 30miles is that north island or south? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Up to Campbell River. The machine shop in Courtenay (at least in the back of the NAPA shop) is gone. Some guy in Cumberland bought all the tools but his quality was so appallingly bad he went out of busyness. I can't believe there isn't anything here but this Rick guy was super nice to talk to and look around the shop. I'm in no hurry but will try to get the block degreased maybe this weekend and find the KA pistons and load in the goon. The next day off I scoot them up there. At the moment I have enough for the bore and hone to fit the stock S13 pistons. Then start saving up for rings and bearings. We roughly touched on the subject of having the L20B small rod ends bushed so they are fully floating. To be fair I think he thought it both too expensive for little gain. I may take a floating KA rod up a discuss more in depth. KA24DE motors have oil squirters, did you know this??? I found them on an RB20 motor and got oics. Looking down the cylinder... What the crank sees... . Quote Link to comment
polski ogorki Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Hey Mike, is the shop called T E R? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Why.... yes it is. Quote Link to comment
polski ogorki Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 been there, I asked for a quote to rebuild a 350 for my tahoe. I ended up just buying a long block from the chevy dealer. Anyone you ask around CR says there the place to go. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Phew, for a moment I thought..you know, bad news. I thoroughly enjoyed my talk with the guy. 1 Quote Link to comment
polski ogorki Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Sorry Mike, didn't meen to scare you lol. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 We roughly touched on the subject of having the L20B small rod ends bushed so they are fully floating. To be fair I think he thought it both too expensive for little gain. I may take a floating KA rod up a discuss more in depth. .. . As long as the pistons swing free there isn't a lot to gain. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 Figured. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted June 28, 2013 Report Share Posted June 28, 2013 This is cool man..will be watching. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Well long holiday weekend... Canada Day. Been raining off and on all week and overcast. Supposed to warm and clear up. Mrs. D is going camping with g/f. Will pull the Z22 block out of storage and clean it up for the machine shop. Which reminds me, I have another block which may be a Z20E. I thought it was a Z24 but Hang_510 said I gave it to him. Will pull it out and look see. Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted June 29, 2013 Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Honing the small end of the rod about .001 will make a floater. Not for performance gains, but sure makes assembly/ disassembly easier. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Hmmm should also drill oil hole?So this was the block about a year ago at Sealick's. When stripped the crank had a spun bearing. I just wanted the block.Well dragged the block out of storage and degreased it... sort of. Hosed it off and it's sitting in the sun to dry. Really hosed out the internal water jacket but nothing came out. No rusty water and scale... maybe because I pressure washed it last year.The caps come off for boring. I'm sure they would be in the way and they could get lost.How the Z22 looks today...Not at all like Hang_510s Z22...L20BZ20E blockDipstick at left rear...There is no heater hose outlet on the Z series heads so it comes directly from the block...Oil drain back hole from the head above, at rear of block just like the L series.I really like this. There are four tapped holes on the oil filter boss. Just like the 280zx turbo. So what you say?Well the 280zx turbo also had a factory oil cooler.. 2 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 subscribed!!!!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Removed for safe keeping. I'll replace with a short threaded one so I can keep the filter to keep crap out while it's bored... Well just to be sure that I did my homework, I test fit the turbo oil filter by pass. Oil exits the block, goes through the filter, then to cooler, returns and is fed to oil gallery. The single small bolt just located the position of the filter. I tried two positions but you could put it anywhere that doesn't interfere with the alternator, MM or anything else? How fuckin cool is that?? I don't have to use one of those cheesy oil filter relocation things... like everyone has. So oil cooler and KA24E high volume oil pump.... with this I have many more options ahead. Did I mention that the KA/ DE (and maybe the SR) motors have oil squirters? they peek up the cylinder bores and fine spray the extremely hot piston bottoms with much 'cooler' oil. How hot does the oil get??? About 80 F higher than the water? something like that?? Well this will reduce pre ignition on high compression, SC or turbo motors.... no, no plans for that. It's better to reduce the causes of pinging (pre ignition) from the high combustion chamber air temperatures than to deal with it later. Such as colder plugs, alcohol/water injection, timing retard, lower compression, lower boost and inter coolers. (again...not that I'm going that way) I want this motor capable of delivering at full high RPM for sustained amounts of time. . 1 Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Well just to be sure that I did my homework, I test fit the turbo oil filter by pass. Oil exits the block, goes through the filter, then to cooler, returns and is fed to oil gallery. You figured this out too?!- I thought I was going to be able to show this off... I guess this is what I get for slacking with my LZ build. I wasnt going to use the stock oil cooler, but I liked using the ZXT piece. Glad to see that my junkyard measurements were correct. Maybe I missed it, but what time frame are you looking to have this running? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Ha ha I started a build thread 7 years ago on The Realm for a LZ23... LZ23E.... no Z24E... nope LZ23 (it kept evolving) Around this time I had two complete Z20E intake set ups. Sold/gave one to Matt HRH and then Sealick did his Z24E so I gave up on that. LZ23 it is then....... and it sat.... and sat.... Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 You should tell the machinist that there was water sitting in the cylinders....maybe have the block magnafluxed? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 It's having one mm or wider than a spark plug gap bored out so that should cover any rust. Yes? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 It's having one mm or wider than a spark plug gap bored out so that should cover any rust. Yes? Yes......but the block sure as shit froze up....lol Not sure if there was water in anything other than the cylinders???? Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Hmmm should also drill oil hole? Ya, I guess I left that part out. I drilled mine on the underside like this. 3/32 I think. Both sides. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.