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LenRobertson

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About LenRobertson

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    E. Washington
  • Cars
    '72 510 4-door, '79 200SX, '77 F10 humpback

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  1. Len's last post to this forum was 1 day prior to a surgery on Oct. 8, 2018. I'm sorry to report that he did not recover and he passed away on Oct. 14th. I retired 1 week ago - and finally have time to follow up on more loose ends. My retirement plan was to encourage and join Len in actually attending Datsun events. Sadly that was not to be. For now I am keeping the 510. However, I know nothing about mechanics so am relying on a friend to put it in a bit better running condition. The SX was sold, but still have a nonrunning 1977 F10 that needs to be sold. There are various Datsun pieces and parts, transmissions, engines, etc here - that are available for fair offers. Trouble is - I have to rely on a friend (currently busy farming) to identify. I can take photos - or if Datsun Mike plans to travel through E. WA, let me know and perhaps you can assist. Sorry - I don't know the protocols (selling?) for this Forum or the best/safest way to proceed. Thanks, Karen

    1. ]2eDeYe

      ]2eDeYe

      I am sorry to hear he passed, he was a great contributor here and will be missed. 

      Photos will help with identification of parts. We have a classified section for actual selling of parts. 

      You should be able to post anywhere in the forums now, if you start a thread in general discussion I am sure everyone would like to help figure out what you have and you may find some help close to your location. You will need use a photo hosting site such as imgur or postimage for posting pics. 

      Please let me know if you need any help with the forums. 

  2. I said you don't have to swap the pedal box from the manual car into the auto one. Which is true, you can hang clutch and brake pedals on either box. However, I think I remember the manual pedal box having an arm welded on one side for the clutch pedal return spring to hook to and the auto pedal box doesn't have this arm. I hooked my return spring to some other hole in the auto pedal box and it has worked. To hook up this fairly strong return spring, I attached a piece of hay wire to the end hook, ran the wire out beside the steering column, and pulled the wire with vise grips. It is hard to g
  3. It has been a few years since I put a dog-leg 5-speed in my '72 510 so I'm likely not remembering all the details, but I'll mention a couple of things. And you may know these already. The tranny cross members for 4-speed and auto are slightly different so be sure to grab the correct one when you go to bolt it up. If you only have the auto X-member it may be usable with modification but I don't really know. I'm pretty sure you will need to enlarge the hole in the floor in an auto car. I remember my car having a smallish rectangular hole where the auto shifter fit through and a manual
  4. Thanks for a great laugh! Your accurate description of my 510 noise struck me as really funny. I'm afraid to put on a decent muffler because then I'd have to listen to all the rattles. At least nothing fell off. A few years ago I gave a guy a ride in the 200SX from the farm out to pick up a wheat truck. Everybody at the farm was giving him a bad time about the risk of his first SX ride. Once we set out he said he was kind of impressed by the SX (maybe it was more like "Not as bad as I expected"). But about 5 miles down the highway there was a bang and the SX got really loud. The r
  5. I feel kinda bad reading this. When you stopped by after Canby I meant to ask if you needed a closed chamber head but forgot all about it when you arrived and we started talking. I guess in theory a head can be mailed or shipped but boxing one up for safe shipping would be kind of a pain and the shipping cost might be prohibitive. If you know anyone going through E WA to Seattle or Everett, Karen could take it to Ritzville where it could be picked up. PM me if you have any interest or ideas. I suspect it is more effort or expense than it is worth to get it to you but you can think about it.
  6. Yes, this font size and color isn't the best for aging eyes. But I've found if I click Ctrl and + keys it enlarges everything and makes it much easier to read. The other thing I'm missing is numbers on each post in a thread. I sometimes use the number when replying in a thread to link back to a previous post in that thread. But maybe I'm the only one who misses the post numbers and I'll get along without them. Other than that, the new look is great. Over the last couple of days, I've been on Gmail, eBay, Photobucket, and YouTube. I can find waaay more to bitch about with all those
  7. Roadster-ka is correct - unplugging the 12V to the choke will keep it closed, not open. However if you loosen the 3 screws on the plastic choke spring cover, I think you should be able to rotate the cover to the point there is virtually no spring pressure trying to push the choke closed. My memory is that the choke butterfly is offset relative to the choke shaft so that it will stay wide open even if the cover and spring are entirely removed from the carb. But I'm not absolutely sure what happens at different manifold vacuum conditions. I think any time I've wanted to be sure of no-choke, I h
  8. It sounds to me like your choke isn't adjusted correctly; that it is holding the choke butterfly on too hard and/or for too long a time. The way to adjust this is loosen (don't remove) the three screws that hold the plastic choke spring cover and SLIGHTLY rotate the cover so you can feel less spring pressure pushing the choke butterfly closed. There shouldn't be much spring pressure, just enough to close the butterfly when the engine is cold. I suppose this time of year in Cali you don't need much spring pressure. There is always a chance someone has installed the plastic cover wrong and it wi
  9. I'll assume you checked the fuel level in the float bowl by looking through the round window on the front of the bowl. If the float isn't adjusted to give the correct fuel level in the bowl, that could flood the carb. Take the air cleaner off and look down the carb throats. If this is a Cali smog carb, the small venturi (round ring thingy) will be supported by a tapered bar across the throat. Grab onto this bar with your fingers or needle nose pliers and make sure there isn't ANY movement in any direction of the bar/venturi unit. On one end of this bar there is an O-ring between it and the
  10. According to this Flickr blog Q&A, there aren't going to be any real changes in Flickr at least for the time being: https://blog.flickr.net/en/2018/04/20/together-smugmug-flickr-faq/ Who knows what may happen in the future? I suppose Flickr could go to all paid accounts but that is true of any of the free pics hosting services. It could be they are all watching how well the changes to Photobucket worked. If a lot of users sent Photobucket money rather than leaving Photobucket, then other companies may think doing the same is a good business model. If Photobucket lost thousands of u
  11. This page may help in rebuilding your dizzy: http://web.archive.org/web/20050308082501/home.att.net/~jason510/Dizzy_FAQ.htm Go down to "Disassembly" and there is a link over to another rebuild page. "The screw that attaches the vacuum canister actuating rod only threads into the moveable advance plate, the special screw has a unthreaded end just sticks into the hole of the actuating rod." is important if you swap your vacuum advance. It was just dumb luck I noticed this special screw when I change my advance canister. Len
  12. I have a partial excuse. Although my dad was born in Missouri, when he was about 16 the family moved to Canada and he lived there until he was into his late 20s (then for some unknown reason most of them migrated to Spokane). So I may have a slight genetic imprint for being Canadian-like. Which I'm kind of proud of and explains some of my odder tendencies. :lol: Len
  13. Okay, that is great information. I thought of trying a cutoff wheel in my die grinder but it quit on me the last time I used it. My angle grinder is still working though. I have a hand bead breaker that takes care of that part of the operation. Last summer I tried to take a tire off a 14" steely with my hand tire irons and couldn't do it. I think I'm getting too weak to be messing with something like that. Even when I was younger and fighting a tire with hand irons I would think "Why am I doing this? The local garage has a machine for changing tires." I guess I enjoy the challenge or something
  14. Do you have a good method for cutting tires off of wheels? Seems the few times I've tried it I run afoul of steel cord and give up. Chop saw? Propane weed burner torch? Or something even more loud and dangerous? :lol: Len
  15. Okay, I think I got it now. So I can go back to feeling bad although the reality is if I'd grabbed that rear end it would be taking up space in my shed along with everything else I got off that SX. At least I know I didn't imagine seeing rear discs on it. Len
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