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About LenRobertson

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  • Location
    E. Washington
  • Cars
    '72 510 4-door, '79 200SX, '77 F10 humpback

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  1. Len's last post to this forum was 1 day prior to a surgery on Oct. 8, 2018. I'm sorry to report that he did not recover and he passed away on Oct. 14th. I retired 1 week ago - and finally have time to follow up on more loose ends. My retirement plan was to encourage and join Len in actually attending Datsun events. Sadly that was not to be. For now I am keeping the 510. However, I know nothing about mechanics so am relying on a friend to put it in a bit better running condition. The SX was sold, but still have a nonrunning 1977 F10 that needs to be sold. There are various Datsun pieces and parts, transmissions, engines, etc here - that are available for fair offers. Trouble is - I have to rely on a friend (currently busy farming) to identify. I can take photos - or if Datsun Mike plans to travel through E. WA, let me know and perhaps you can assist. Sorry - I don't know the protocols (selling?) for this Forum or the best/safest way to proceed. Thanks, Karen

    1. ]2eDeYe


      I am sorry to hear he passed, he was a great contributor here and will be missed. 

      Photos will help with identification of parts. We have a classified section for actual selling of parts. 

      You should be able to post anywhere in the forums now, if you start a thread in general discussion I am sure everyone would like to help figure out what you have and you may find some help close to your location. You will need use a photo hosting site such as imgur or postimage for posting pics. 

      Please let me know if you need any help with the forums. 

  2. I said you don't have to swap the pedal box from the manual car into the auto one. Which is true, you can hang clutch and brake pedals on either box. However, I think I remember the manual pedal box having an arm welded on one side for the clutch pedal return spring to hook to and the auto pedal box doesn't have this arm. I hooked my return spring to some other hole in the auto pedal box and it has worked. To hook up this fairly strong return spring, I attached a piece of hay wire to the end hook, ran the wire out beside the steering column, and pulled the wire with vise grips. It is hard to get a good pull on the spring in the confines under the dash. Be sure to have a slight amount of free play on your clutch pedal when you get done. I'm thinking 1/16" to 1/8" but it doesn't want to be as much play as a mechanical linkage clutch free play. If the pedal is dead tight to the clutch master, the hydraulic clutch won't work well. I think the reason I didn't relocate my gas pedal is the screws holding it to the floor looked like they would put up a real fight before they would come out. PB Blaster and an impact driver would probably get them out, but my laziness won out over trying that. Len
  3. It has been a few years since I put a dog-leg 5-speed in my '72 510 so I'm likely not remembering all the details, but I'll mention a couple of things. And you may know these already. The tranny cross members for 4-speed and auto are slightly different so be sure to grab the correct one when you go to bolt it up. If you only have the auto X-member it may be usable with modification but I don't really know. I'm pretty sure you will need to enlarge the hole in the floor in an auto car. I remember my car having a smallish rectangular hole where the auto shifter fit through and a manual needs a larger round hole. There may be an adjacent line or wires under the the floor close to where you cut so be sure to look for that before cutting. For a starter, I've been running a 280Z/Maxima gear drive starter for years with good result. If you are in AK this starter may help you a little when it gets cold. It seems to turn the engine over faster than a conventional drive Datsun starter. But I'm using the gear drive starter on an L20b, not a 1600, so I can't say for sure it will work for you. I installed used clutch master and slave cylinders when I did my swap. It didn't take long to need to replace them with new ones so I would recommend starting with new if you can get them easily. You shouldn't need to swap the entire pedal box although this may be easy enough to do. You can just take out the pivot bolt that goes through the brake pedal arm and replace it with the manual trans pedal arm. The hole and threads for the clutch pedal arm should be there in the auto car pedal hanger. Very important if you do this - one of the pedal arm hanger bolts is left hand thread. I'm almost certain it is the brake pedal bolt but not 100% sure. If you are strong enough, you can break the bolt or strip the threads if you don't know this. The gas pedal for the auto car ends up being very close to the manual brake pedal. The manual trans gas pedal can be installed but I never got around to doing so on my car and live with it just fine. Strolling off topic, my sister lives in Fairbanks and works as a civilian employee I believe at Wainwright. She recently sent pics of a huge out-in-the-weeds car collection somewhere in the Fairbanks area. There were some Datsuns in the pics, including as I recall one or two 510s. I'm curious if you got these cars or if not do you want me to get more details from her and pass them on to you? When she sent them I thought it was sad there probably wasn't anyone on Ratsun in the Fairbanks area and the cars looked shabby enough they wouldn't be worth shipping to the lower 48. I think she said the owners needed to clear the property so they may already be gone. Len
  4. Thanks for a great laugh! Your accurate description of my 510 noise struck me as really funny. I'm afraid to put on a decent muffler because then I'd have to listen to all the rattles. At least nothing fell off. A few years ago I gave a guy a ride in the 200SX from the farm out to pick up a wheat truck. Everybody at the farm was giving him a bad time about the risk of his first SX ride. Once we set out he said he was kind of impressed by the SX (maybe it was more like "Not as bad as I expected"). But about 5 miles down the highway there was a bang and the SX got really loud. The rear muffler had rusted through at the front and was dragging on the asphalt. We turned up a side road and it fell off completely which saved having to wire it up off the ground. Yeah, the head will no doubt still be here next year. And I'm sure it is my turn to buy breakfast. Len
  5. I feel kinda bad reading this. When you stopped by after Canby I meant to ask if you needed a closed chamber head but forgot all about it when you arrived and we started talking. I guess in theory a head can be mailed or shipped but boxing one up for safe shipping would be kind of a pain and the shipping cost might be prohibitive. If you know anyone going through E WA to Seattle or Everett, Karen could take it to Ritzville where it could be picked up. PM me if you have any interest or ideas. I suspect it is more effort or expense than it is worth to get it to you but you can think about it. If I'd been thinking the day you were here I'd have insisted you drive my 510 so you could critique my dubious clutch, stiff front springs, and lack of bump steer spacers. I always have these ideas when it is too late. Anyway, you would likely have told me I need to do a LOT of work on the 510 which I guess I already know. Len
  6. Yes, this font size and color isn't the best for aging eyes. But I've found if I click Ctrl and + keys it enlarges everything and makes it much easier to read. The other thing I'm missing is numbers on each post in a thread. I sometimes use the number when replying in a thread to link back to a previous post in that thread. But maybe I'm the only one who misses the post numbers and I'll get along without them. Other than that, the new look is great. Over the last couple of days, I've been on Gmail, eBay, Photobucket, and YouTube. I can find waaay more to bitch about with all those sites than with Ratsun. Ratsun is Golden by comparison. But I suppose those big sites are burdened with the handicap of Professional Managers (who never seem to think of the actual site users). Len
  7. Roadster-ka is correct - unplugging the 12V to the choke will keep it closed, not open. However if you loosen the 3 screws on the plastic choke spring cover, I think you should be able to rotate the cover to the point there is virtually no spring pressure trying to push the choke closed. My memory is that the choke butterfly is offset relative to the choke shaft so that it will stay wide open even if the cover and spring are entirely removed from the carb. But I'm not absolutely sure what happens at different manifold vacuum conditions. I think any time I've wanted to be sure of no-choke, I hay wired it open. I can't resist doing my possible loose small venturi rant once again. In the second pic in you post #11, I can see the venturis (one in each of the two carb barrels) down in the gloom of the carb throats. Just bellow the open choke butterfly for the primary barrel. If you haven't done so already, reach down with needle-nose pliers or a mini-seal pick and make sure neither of these is at all loose. Maybe just prying with a screw driver will be enough to get a wiggle if either is loose. The reason I'm obsesso about this is two of my three Datsuns came with carbs with this style small venturi holder and both had worked loose. Others on Ratsun have posted they have had this part come loose. My theory (which may be total nonsense) is if the venturi holder is loose, it can pull raw gas out of the one end where there is an O-ring, rather than through the tiny hole out at the small venturi where the gas is supposed to come out and be atomized as it is sucked down the carb throat. If your venturi holders are tight, that is wonderful. Ignore the prior rant. You mentioned the EGR valve being old. I vaguely remember something about a stuck EGR being not a good thing but I have no idea what happens if the thing is non-functioning. Maybe nothing that will matter in a smog test. I've pulled off EGR valves that were gunky with carbon so maybe they can be cleaned rather than replaced. Len
  8. It sounds to me like your choke isn't adjusted correctly; that it is holding the choke butterfly on too hard and/or for too long a time. The way to adjust this is loosen (don't remove) the three screws that hold the plastic choke spring cover and SLIGHTLY rotate the cover so you can feel less spring pressure pushing the choke butterfly closed. There shouldn't be much spring pressure, just enough to close the butterfly when the engine is cold. I suppose this time of year in Cali you don't need much spring pressure. There is always a chance someone has installed the plastic cover wrong and it will need to be removed and reset. But only worry about this if you can't lessen the spring pressure by rotating the plastic cover. Another thing to check is that you have 12 volt power at the terminal on the choke spring cover with the engine running (not just with the key on). This power is what heats the choke spring and lets the spring gradually release pressure on the butterfly. This 12V power come from the alternator circuit and only when the alt is turning, hence the running engine. Len
  9. I'll assume you checked the fuel level in the float bowl by looking through the round window on the front of the bowl. If the float isn't adjusted to give the correct fuel level in the bowl, that could flood the carb. Take the air cleaner off and look down the carb throats. If this is a Cali smog carb, the small venturi (round ring thingy) will be supported by a tapered bar across the throat. Grab onto this bar with your fingers or needle nose pliers and make sure there isn't ANY movement in any direction of the bar/venturi unit. On one end of this bar there is an O-ring between it and the carb body. If this O-ring is bad or the bar is loose so the O-ring doesn't seal, it may cause gas to be sucked down the carb throat. When I got my F10, this bar/venturi had come completely loose from the carb body and was keeping the choke butterfly from opening more than a little bit. Now that was running rich! Len
  10. According to this Flickr blog Q&A, there aren't going to be any real changes in Flickr at least for the time being: https://blog.flickr.net/en/2018/04/20/together-smugmug-flickr-faq/ Who knows what may happen in the future? I suppose Flickr could go to all paid accounts but that is true of any of the free pics hosting services. It could be they are all watching how well the changes to Photobucket worked. If a lot of users sent Photobucket money rather than leaving Photobucket, then other companies may think doing the same is a good business model. If Photobucket lost thousands of users then other companies may learn from that mistake. It looks like the only thing really different for now is as of May 25, unless you tell Flickr you don't accept their new Terms of Service, you are agreeing to those Terms. Any time you get a credit card or new phone plan or have any dealing with a corporation, you are either going to agree with their Terms of Service (probably without reading them. I skimmed the Flickr Terms this morning but my eyes started glazing over) or not use their service. That is reality today. It briefly crossed my mind to attempt to include a photo from my Flickr account in this post just to see if I can do it. My experience in the past is every time I try to do so, Flickr has done an "improvement" and I'm unable to find the URL of the pic to post. But I don't think I want to risk that level of frustration so early in the day. Maybe later. Len
  11. This page may help in rebuilding your dizzy: http://web.archive.org/web/20050308082501/home.att.net/~jason510/Dizzy_FAQ.htm Go down to "Disassembly" and there is a link over to another rebuild page. "The screw that attaches the vacuum canister actuating rod only threads into the moveable advance plate, the special screw has a unthreaded end just sticks into the hole of the actuating rod." is important if you swap your vacuum advance. It was just dumb luck I noticed this special screw when I change my advance canister. Len
  12. I have a partial excuse. Although my dad was born in Missouri, when he was about 16 the family moved to Canada and he lived there until he was into his late 20s (then for some unknown reason most of them migrated to Spokane). So I may have a slight genetic imprint for being Canadian-like. Which I'm kind of proud of and explains some of my odder tendencies. :lol: Len
  13. Okay, that is great information. I thought of trying a cutoff wheel in my die grinder but it quit on me the last time I used it. My angle grinder is still working though. I have a hand bead breaker that takes care of that part of the operation. Last summer I tried to take a tire off a 14" steely with my hand tire irons and couldn't do it. I think I'm getting too weak to be messing with something like that. Even when I was younger and fighting a tire with hand irons I would think "Why am I doing this? The local garage has a machine for changing tires." I guess I enjoy the challenge or something. Len
  14. Do you have a good method for cutting tires off of wheels? Seems the few times I've tried it I run afoul of steel cord and give up. Chop saw? Propane weed burner torch? Or something even more loud and dangerous? :lol: Len
  15. Okay, I think I got it now. So I can go back to feeling bad although the reality is if I'd grabbed that rear end it would be taking up space in my shed along with everything else I got off that SX. At least I know I didn't imagine seeing rear discs on it. Len
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