Mike's KAZ23

[datzenmike]

The KA24E makes about 140 RWHP @ 5,600 and 150 torque @ 4,400 on a good day. It's 4.34% larger so by extrapolation a KA23 (same head, same cam) should make about 6.5 to 7 hp less. Add into the mix R-1 carbs, 4mm shorter stroke, and a compression of 8.89 tops. I'm trying for 8.53

I originally was hoping for about 130RWHP so this will nearly that..

[datzenmike]

I found my electric drill so time to lap some valves. Valve on right is used but untouched. Notice the sharp edge on the combustion chamber side of the valve face. Valve on left has been radiused to make the air flow smoother over it.

 

 

Sharp edge...

 

Smooth edge...

 

There are 3, 4 and more valve angle cuts on the outer side of the valve face to transition the air from the port and smooth the flow. Like a velocity stack. So why not on the other side?

 

Easy enough to hand chuck the valve into the drill. It's not on tight but will turn it pretty well. A few small dabs of carborundum paste and start spinning slowly so it doesn't fly off. Seat the valve and push in the center with your finger tip. Repeatedly lift the valve off the seat to draw the paste in and set back down again. Give it a good spin lifting off and on for about a minute.

 

 

Old face was good, it came from a running motor, but had some slight deposits/pitting.

 

One minute later and it looks way better.

.

 

 

Not bad for a hour or so tonight. I have a small cheap rotary tool and plan to clear away a small lip around the valve edge just outside the face on the combustion chamber. Hard to see in these pictures as it's to show something else. I'll take more and what I'm doing to them.

 

The ports are fabulous... almost nothing need be done with them. Port matching I suppose.

[flatcat19]

I wonder why such a low compression ratio.

 

Hmmm....let me think about that for a second.

[datzenmike]

KA head has a combustion chamber that is about 20cc larger than the open chamber L head. The trick is to increase the compression. Right now if I fly cut the head I should be around 8.5. This is regular gas and no pain at the pumps.

 

When I'm done with the head I'll work out how much to shave it before assembling the cam, valves and rockers.

[flatcat19]

BS. We know you want to put a snail on there.

[datzenmike]

:o :) :D :lol: No, I know nothing about them. I want R-1 not Pisssssssshhhhht

[oldschool90]

I want R-1 not Pisssssssshhhhht

[datzenmike]

Hummmm........ probably not. Though it sounds like fun.

[datzenmike]

For X-Mass I bought a cheap $50 rotary tool. I wore the old one out years ago doing the same thing. Anyway If a three angle valve cut is so hot then the other side of the valve face is also part of the equation. Many engines benefit from un-shrouding the valves to increase flow. So I noticed a small sharp lip most of the way round all the valves and shrouding has been relieved by a cut from the factory... But the cut is also somewhat sharp edged as well.

 

So I figure I will remove the sharp edges where I find them and smooth the exit from the valve face.

 

Here you can see the lip and the factory cut

 

My attempt to remove and smooth

 

Here's one intake where you can see the change

 

I got 3 of the 4 cylinders done tonight. I'll try to finish up tomorrow and put a polish on what I've done.

 

Next will be the ports. Just clean around the base of the valve seats and see about port matching.

[datson4life]

this is too intense for me right now, i shall find another thread to read and come back to this one in a few days

 

i got a buddy doing the same build but i dont understand how the ka head will fit the l or z block cause the head is slighly longer, anyhow im not reading thru everything again right now, goodnight ratsun fellas

[flatcat19]

this is too intense for me right now, i shall find another thread to read and come back to this one in a few days

 

i got a buddy doing the same build but i dont understand how the ka head will fit the l or z block cause the head is slighly longer, anyhow im not reading thru everything again right now, goodnight ratsun fellas

 

They all fit. HRH has a KA head on his Z24 block.

[Farmer Joe]

this is too intense for me right now, i shall find another thread to read and come back to this one in a few days

 

i got a buddy doing the same build but i dont understand how the ka head will fit the l or z block cause the head is slighly longer, anyhow im not reading thru everything again right now, goodnight ratsun fellas

the L Z and KA bottom ends and heads all have the same bore spacing.

 

physically, if you look at the blocks and heads like lego, you could bolt any head to any block.. timing sets and front covers are mainly the big issues when swapping heads on other blocks. compression ratios are also a very important factor..

 

but, all in all, its not to complicated.

[datzenmike]

 

this is too intense for me right now, i shall find another thread to read and come back to this one in a few days

 

i got a buddy doing the same build but i dont understand how the ka head will fit the l or z block cause the head is slighly longer, anyhow im not reading thru everything again right now, goodnight ratsun fellas

 

Longer? Maybe I never looked. The bolt and cylinder spacings are the same. The oil supply is also in the same location. The front of the KA24E head exactly matches the Z22 timing cover. There is one problem with the back of the KA head, and that is an oil drain back hole that exits right into an L or Z whater jacket hole. This will be welded up. The head gasket/block coolant holes will also need to be opened or closed to suit.

[datzenmike]

 

Just below the valve face contact area on the seat is a beveled edge. I assume about 22 degrees or about half way between the 45 degree valve face and the 90 degree port. It's the shiny edge above.

 

I removed this bevel edge and blended the port below it into the seat face. Again a rounded or radius turn, somewhat like a trumpet horn for the air to flow over rather than an edge.

 

[Eagle_Adam]

man its nice to watch other people build motors.......

 

 

so much harder when i have to do it :P 

[datzenmike]

Well not many pictures today. I pretty much finished the ports. Exhaust similar.

 

[datzenmike]

Old plastic top from BeeGee's Greatest Hits CD...or maybe AbbA? Marked out 89mm cylinder diameter and drilled hole near one edge...

 

Grease valve faces and install in head...

 

Light coat of grease around cylinder edge. If Chevy owner this means a very light coat. Then carefully place CD cover on and lightly press to seal it.

 

Previously buy or just tell a pharmacist what you are doing. I was given this child's syringe for giving oral medicine. Easier than a real syringe to use and clearly marked to 10cc. Inject water counting the number of shots to fill the combustion chamber. Tilt head up slightly on the hole side to let the last bubble of air out.

 

 

Years ago I managed to find a reference of 65cc for a KA24E combustion chamber. I got an average of 68cc from 4 tries.

 

Armed with this info I can easily calculate my future compression ratio. The final adjustment will be having the head milled down. Shooting for 8.5

 

 

The two KA's two intake valves equal a single valve that is 1.9" or 48.25mm across for area. Kind of makes the L series 1.38" intake look small.

 

The KA exhaust valve is 1.575" to the L's 1.38" or 40mm vs. 35mm

 

 

Assuming a 1.5 rocker ratio the valve lift is 0.3975"

[Farmer Joe]

ill tell ya what, ill never go back to an L head after driving the KA.

 

even if its to do like you are, with putting it on a Z block. that 2200 is gonna breathe.

[datzenmike]

Well if it wants to breathe I'll give it R-1s. The shorter stroke won't hurt either.

[datzenmike]

Tomorrow I have to find a way to remove four L20B or Z22 rods, both are 145.9mm long and the same part. I have at least one set of each laying around somewhere. I have an idea I'll try to get them off.

 

Would sure like to ream the rod ends out to make them floating.

[datzenmike]

Vice and torch and it popped and moved 1/8" and that was that. Going to need a real hydraulic press for this.

[Eagle_Adam]

sooo.... will this beast actually get R1's? 

[datzenmike]

That's the plan. I picked up a set a couple of years ago. Half-hardheartedly started a KA-E manifold for them some time ago. The stock intake did not have water 'cooling' as it was likely not needed on a cross flow head. I won't be driving it in cold weather anyway. This will make it easier to make. I would like to experiment with 'ram tuning' the velocity stack length.

 

Well after work I went up the the materials testing lab and the guy there was very enthusiastic. (didn't want to be doing what he was doing anyway) We made up a jig and pressed the pins out of the rods. The one I started took 700 lbs the rest were between 1,000 and 1,500 PSI to get moving. The 'press' is actually a very expensive stand for concrete testing. It has to test to breaking a 4" by 10" long cylinder of cured concrete. (I think it has too handle at least 60 tons?)

 

So I left the rods there because I want to take a Z22 rod up tomorrow. I'm sure they are the same part number but maybe they are balanced differently. If they are within a few grams then they are. BUT we weighed the rods on a scientific scale and there was 3-4 grams difference. I'll do a better job later and grind away material to get them exactly the same. My FSM says the replacement rods for the L20B have to be within 7 grams of the one replaced. Fuck I can do way better than that!  

[datzenmike]

The Z22 rod weighs the same as the L20B rod (within a gram or two)  BUT

 

I weighed the bottom half of the rod and the Z22 one is heavier than the L20B one. The top half of the Z22 rod is lighter than the top half of the L20B rod. Over all they weigh the same, but put together, the Z22 had more weight at the big end than the L20B one did. So this may be to account for the longer stroke or the heavier Z22 piston or maybe for the non fully counter weighted crank on the Z22 engines.

 

So who ever mentioned the L20B rods causing vibration... thank you for putting me on to this. Tonight I cut the other three Z22 pistons off and will take them in and press them off after work tomorrow. The balance is so sensitive we had to turn the fan off because we couldn't get it to zero itself. Good to a 1/10th of a gram maybe more.

[oldschool90]

So who ever mentioned the L20B rods causing vibration... thank you for putting me on to this.

That was me, your welcome  :D So what rods do you plan on using?