Mike's KAZ23

[datzenmike]

Well the heavier at the bottom Z22 ones so they match the Z22 crank. I have a set laying around. I just cut the pistons of the last 3 of them. The 4 L20B ones will just go in the drawer. The other three I'll take to work and press the pins out. I'll weigh them and try to get them close to the same weight.

 

 

And thanks again.

[Sealik]

..... Good to a 1/10th of a gram maybe more.

 

 

Good to know......mum's the word......... :D

 

[datzenmike]

Ha ha ha

[EricJB]

When I had mine balanced, the rods were the biggest offenders. They were taken out of a motor I had ran for many years, so they were assumed to be a matched set.

 

 

[datzenmike]

Well this is weird but I can seem to verify what I measured yesterday. I was on my way home and in a hurry but today I had lots of time. I took the bottom caps of the 4 L20B and the Z22 rods and measured them. All between 170 and 174.6 grams. The top halves were 527 to 534 with one at 541grams. It was matched to the lightest cap. I even measured the sets of nuts and bolts... all around 41.9grams.

 

So I guess it pays to take your time and I'm more familiar with the scale today. It's so sensitive the fan had to be turned off .

 

I guess L20B and Z22 truck rods are the same. Just in case, I will now be using the Z22 truck rods.

[datzenmike]

Just talked to the machine shop and my block is done and ready for pick up. I've loaded the KA head in my goon and will drive to work and head up after.


Z22 rods

 

[jvb5577]

Wish I would have thought about this before I got everything done  :(

 

Mike what are your plans with this motor, race, street?

[datzenmike]

Nothing special... street I guess, I don't race. Have wanted to do a build and move from the theoretical into the actual. I've rebuilt several Ls before but they were quick hone jobs with rings, valve seals, bearings and gaskets. Did one on the kitchen table once back in the 70s.

 

My L20B is approaching 50K miles so lots left and a good runner so not everything is riding on this. I can take a few gambles and I still have the good motor to fall back on. I am shooting for a 2.3 with KA24E head, compression at 8.5 and R-1 carbs on a custom manifold with tuned length velocity stacks. Hope for 125 RWHP. The head and carbs should have unlimited breathing and the cam will be the limiting factor.

[jvb5577]

Didn't know you where planing on the KA head.  I am very excited to see how this is going to work  :w00t:   Is the head going to be completely stock then?  Well minus the work I see you did to the valves.

 

R-1's are going to look and sound great on this.  Can always upgrade the cam to get better performance down the way.  You should look into turbo charging this!  :P  (Just because I would want to)

[K_trip]

- removed -

[datzenmike]

Got my block back!!!!! Hot tanked and new frost plugs. Honed and ready for rings (though I'm not)

 

 

Decking it did not remove the oil jet so that's one less thing to do. 1mm or 0.040" removed.

 

Dropped off KA head for a trim at the same time. Between the two cuts, head and block I should just get 8.5 to 1 compression.

.

[polski ogorki]

 

 

I'm sure you may hit a valve with that set up? ...........................Just sayin?

.

[datzenmike]

Hey Richie

 

At the moment I don't think so. Here's why.. This KA head and piston combination works in the KA motors right? It's a KA head above a KA piston (the block is irrelevant) but in the KA motor the piston stops 0.45mm before the top of the deck and with the crushed gasket thickness of 1.2mm that's almost 1.65mm, plus the small dish in the piston.

 

The combination of Z22 crank, Z22 rod and KA piston would normally have had 1.55mm of clearance before the top of the block, but I had 1mm milled off of it. So in theory the piston stops 0.55mm below the deck. Still good so far.

 

I plan to mill 1mm from the head so this will move all valves that much closer to the piston tops, yes. This is a concern only when the head is milled. I have to mill the head to increase the compression, no easy way around this. I will be checking valve/piston crown clearance at TDC for sure. Even if there is interference, I have options.

 

The intake valves are very small diameter. The exhausts are much larger and will stick down in the most. One good thing is that the valves are not at full lift on the exhaust stroke... the exhausts are just closing and the intakes just opening during the overlap. 

[datzenmike]

I'm sure you may hit a valve with that set up? ...........................Just sayin?

.

 

On the compression stroke both valves are closed but on the exhaust stroke the exhaust is closing and the intakes are starting to open near TDC.

OK here's what I did. On my spare KA head I set the cam at about 28 degrees BTDC and measured the closing exhaust valve. Keep in mind that the piston is not at the top yet but is getting there. The exhaust valve was 0.070" or 1.75mm below the head surface. The head gasket is 1.2mm thick but I'm also milling 1mm off the head so add 1mm ...so the valve is sticking out 1.55mm. or about 0.060"  BUT keep in mind.... I'm at 28 degrees before TDC and the piston is still rising as the exhaust is closing.

 

The opening intakes??? Well at 28 degrees ATDC the intake valve edge is only 0.025" or 1/4 the height of the exhaust and the piston is quickly moving away down the cylinder.

 

At TDC it looked like the valves were both closed.

 

I will assemble with some plasticine and measure the clearance.

[datzenmike]

Going through my collection of timing covers. I had one all cleaned up and then noticed that the lower bolt hole behind the oil pump, the one easily missed, was broken out by someone forcing the cover off with the bolt still in. Oh well I have another. Pried the front seal out and brushed most of the oily dirt off and dipped it in my cleaning tank for a few hrs. Washed a scrubbed it clean and found the lower rad inlet bolt broken off. So luckily there was a stub sticking out. Now you could just slip some vice grips on and try turning it... but it may just snap off again, and flush at that. Or the threads round off repeatedly....

 

 

Pre set the vice grips tightly. If you have even less to work with file two flats for better grip than the threads.  Now heat the aluminum around the bolt. Don't heat the bolt, you don't want it to expand just the aluminum around it. Aluminum expands twice as much as steel and the threaded hole should become marginally larger and relax it's grip on the bolt.

 

 

The vice grips will act as a heat sink on the bolt. Just get the aluminum good and hot. I began by trying to loosen ever so slightly then tighten, wiggling back and forth until there was a small movement. I re heated the aluminum and this time it moved easily. Got it moving back and forth, each time going further towards loosening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are two alignment dowels on the front covers. One was missing so I got this from the old cover....see the broken out bolt hole? Easy enough to pop out or pull with vice grips. These are critical to proper cover alignment, not so much for bolts and gaskets but to position the front seal for the crankshaft.

 

The other goes here

.

[Eagle_Adam]

fun to watch mike! 

[datzenmike]

OK yesterday I borrowed a brake cylinder hone and today I started in on the rod small end. Little by little I honed and oiled and honed and oiled until one of the original KA24E floating pins fit into the hole about a thumb nails thickness. I hand sanded the bore with 600 paper and then test fit. Over and over. Only hand force and where it fits I didn't sand again as it's about where I want it. Slowly the pin goes further in and I have to tap it out from the other side. I think the warmth of my hand expands it and it sticks in the bore because I pick it up cold off the table and it fits and twists in and jams. Anyway I slowly polish any bright shiny areas where the pin rubs the bore and it finally pushed all the way through. I was able to twist it round and slide in and out using thumb and for finger.... very snug but it moves.

 

 

 

Took maybe an hour each (I got two finished) using a brake cylinder hone, 600 sand paper by hand and a Dremel polish. Still needs a hole drilled in the top to let the oil in to lube it. Once that's done I can start to fine balance them in a matched set.

 

Ordered a KA head gasket today. Have to start thinking about any holes needed to be drilled into the block. I have a KA block and a spare head to compare .

[datzenmike]

Finished the other two rods yesterday.

 

Drilling top of small end for oil.

 

 

 

The KA rods had this chamfer

 

 

 

 

 

Ground away the burs and made a groove for oil and then polished.

 

 

 

Pretty much finished now. Gave them a really good scrub and soak in the kitchen sink.

 

Have to send a part by bus today on the way in to balance the rods. More later

.

[datzenmike]

Well getting a repeatable balance on both ends was problematic. Best I could do was get them all within 4 grams or less of each other. Pisses me off.

[datzenmike]

Balanced my pistons. They were within 1.4 grams... now within 1/10 gram. I think that's 1/283 of an ounce. I simply did it because I could.

 

 

Will take one of the old cir-clips in and get 8 new ones. Maybe tomorrow I can assemble the rods to the pistons.

[datzenmike]

Well Mrs D picked up my freshly plained head today and I'm waiting for her to get home with it. Haven't posted much because it's been raining but I thought up a novel way to get 8.9 compression, I think. I need a special tool for this and have to find one. If it works out I'll post how I did it with pictures. If not working then why bother. It will actually solve one other problem with the KA head yet undiscussed.

 

 

Ah, here it it. Nice mill pattern on it...

 

Will have to de-burr it some.

[HRH]

I hate to be a bother here Mike, but did you say you wanted compression at 8.5:1?  You're not going to hit a good torque number with that.  If you're going massive boost, I'm all for it, other than that, there's no reason, even with 87 octane to run less than 9:1.  In fact, I'd suggest at least 9.5:1 to keep in mind the stock compression ration of the dohc KA head.  Just sayin' ;)

[datzenmike]

..... but I thought up a novel way to get 8.9 compression, I think.

.

It's hidden in the text but I am planning for more. Compression..... getting enough is a problem just to get 8.5 I'm milling the deck and the head. Will 8.9 satisfy you Matt?  :lol:  :lol: 

[HRH]

8.9? Oooooo, I don't know about that.  I think it's turbo time!

[datzenmike]

As to the turbo question.....I say again.. "If I am asked, I am NOT, nor will I seek, to run for president!!!"