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Mike's KAZ23


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In the words of Sheldon: "Well, you're certainly not going to win the presidency without a turbo."  Or something close to that.  I have a turbo now.  Traded a supercharger for it.  Mwahhh haha haaaaa! ;)

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OK had lots of time this weekend but... the little thing I was working on didn't work out... but it is do-able. Just have to wait till next week when stores are open. So in the mean time the KA only came with EFI and fuel pump in the tank. So I will be running a mechanical L series pump...

 

This way...

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Yes kiddies just like it's grandpa did on the L16.

 

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Well after a failed start but knowledge gained form it I got my side project well under way.

 

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So what do you think?

Very cool! What type of copper is that anyways? I might want to steal...er, copy this idea.

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Just for fun I slipped the KA head on the dowels and copper gasket. This is going to be so cool... 2.3 with unlimited breathing. The 0.020" gasket should bump the compression to 8.9 which is a nice compromise.

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Have to actually think about this part. L and Z blocks push coolant in from the right front and out the front top left, so Z block to L head coolant holes are simple enough with an L HG to use as a template. The KA block is cooled by pushing coolant in from the left front and out the right top front. Both blocks are Siamese cylinders so water flows mostly down that side and around the back and then forward. To exit it travels up into the head but you don't want too many holes on the right side or the water will simply flow across the combustion chambers and out on that side. Basically the L and Z flows coolant opposite to the KA and the head must flow backwards from left side to right to get out. Lower right in the picture is the top rad hose position.

 

I'm leaning toward keeping most of the Z22 holes on the left side (top in the picture) Water comes up out of the block and the arrows show coolant paths in the head above it.

 

 

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The KA also has two oil drain back holes at the rear of the head. One of these opens directly into a water passage in the Z22 block. I have an elegant solution other than welding it closed. In fact I don't have to do anything really it's mostly taken care of already.

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It's hidden in the text but I am planning for more. Compression..... getting enough is a problem just to get 8.5 I'm milling the deck and the head. Will 8.9 satisfy you Matt?  :lol:  :lol:

 

 

Wouldn't a thicker gasket lower the C/R?  :confused:

 

 

Raises the ratio to 8.9 from 8.5, making it a lower compression number.... so no and yes? :lol:

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With 1mm (0'040") removed from the block and nother 1 mm from the head (2mm or 0.080" and using a stock gasket that is compressed by torquing the head bolts to 1.2mm (0.048")the compression works out to 8.5... and that's fine and a good number. By using a copper HG that is 0.5mm (0.020") thick I can move the head even closer to the block making the combustion chamber even smaller raising the compression to 8.9

 

By my figuring I still have room for valve clearance to piston tops but will be checking this during assy.

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Well I've ordered main and rod bearings.With the crank roughly in place I can loosely place the head on and start working out the timing chain length. Also check the head bolt lengths. One of theses KA heads I unbolted and I saved the bolts but I don't see them. The Z24 bots will work but I'll keep looking.

As the KA 24E had two oil drain back holes at the rear of the head and one is in the place of all L and Z heads, but the right side is directly over a coolant hold in the Z22 block and this will not do. I figure the copper head gasket will seal them both from each other but just in case I'm closing it off.

I made an 1/8" aluminum plug and hammered it tightly into the head about 1/2".

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Next I ground a groove into and around the bore about 1/4" down. This will help anchor the JB weld so it can't move up or down. Mixed, this stuff actually flows and fills into any cavity. Nice

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Pretty close to flat but I'll check with a straight edge. Now the gasket is well supported.

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Still have to weigh the head without any valve train. and when finished. I guess this is the last thing needed and I can start the valves as soon as I get the seals.

 

 

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Well after a week of putting this off I finally had to sit down and get serious. The KA block IS siameesed or joined between cylinders. The Z22 is only joined between one and two and three and four. It's open between two and three. I though they were all joined and must have only checked between one and two and assumed.... So anyway the head gasket will be treated as a Z22 with the majority of coolant entering up into the head on the exhaust side, flowing over and around the combustion chambers and out the front intake side. Fuckitall I'm over thinking this.

 

Oil on the KA flows up beside one of the head bolts to the cam which is different than the L Z series. The head has a notch in it but I cut the gasket as well.

 

The second oil drain back hole is left out and with yesterday's JB weld plug should not offer any problems.

 

I think I have to drill one or maybe two small holes in the deck for coolant passage and also file away any burrs from drilling the soft copper.

 

 

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Well I spent hours taking the complete KA rockers assy apart and cleaning them. These are the ones from the head I 'ported'. I put them away somewhere safe and fuck me I can't seem to find them.

 

I do have another head with rockers that I have just removed because it has the only good KA cam I have. It was grungy so I polished it with my Dremel. Had to remove a couple of valves for the steel washers for under the springs, I lost three. Found the top cam caps and cleaned them up with WD-40. I'll find the rockers or run these others. Weather don't look good this weekend but I did get my new valve seals in yesterday. Would like to get everything back on the head and then it's ready. 

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