jon521 Posted January 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 thanks :D here is the z wheel on the truck. no horn button yet, but the horn worked about 1/4 of the time before so its not a big deal. ill get a button eventually. also no more turn signal reset, there is about a 1 inch gap between the wheel and the column cover, which doesnt look horrible, but id rather have a clean look. i really like the feel of the wheel tho and how it looks. thanks jes! Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted January 20, 2012 Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 thanks :D here is the z wheel on the truck. no horn button yet, but the horn worked about 1/4 of the time before so its not a big deal. ill get a button eventually. also no more turn signal reset, there is about a 1 inch gap between the wheel and the column cover, which doesnt look horrible, but id rather have a clean look. i really like the feel of the wheel tho and how it looks. thanks jes! very cool. I've always liked those wheels. Had one on a 510 goon i had 5 years ago. More authentic than grants. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted January 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 very cool. I've always liked those wheels. Had one on a 510 goon i had 5 years ago. More authentic than grants. yes and they look some what aftermarket Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted February 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 A87 back from the machine shop! new guides, springs, vavles, retainers, etc, bead blast and resurface. total of $250. not too bad. definetly want to go back to this shop also got some nearly new tires of CL for my stock wheels! :cool: im super stoked, ive been wanting this look very long. the wheels were $50, $100 powdercoated, $150 for the tires and an extra set of chrome wheels, for a total of $300 to do this whole set up :D 195/75 matrix multi miles. the next thing will be chrome lug nuts and center bullet caps, or dog dishes Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 I would go with the dogdish hubcaps and beauty rings right now, but if you go with the center caps, hubcap world has a large selection of them last time I was there, but they have several boxes with several hundred of them, you have to sort threw them to find a set of four. 1 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 Dude! Looks awesome. Im doing the same thing this week. Getting new whitewalls and bullet caps since i cant seem to find 521 caps to save my life. But im tossing around the idea of painting my wheels a light pastel yellow. Love your truck coming along nicely. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 I would go with the dogdish hubcaps and beauty rings right now, x2 your truck looks too nice for bullet caps Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted February 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 Thanks guys! im really happy with how it looks now, i want to go just a little lower. ive gotten alot of comments since i put them on. i even had one guy give me his number if i was interested in selling my truck. Quote Link to comment
The Dat-side Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 I never look in here for build threads. Your truck is damn near perfect! Lower it a couple inches and you get a gold star from me! What shop was that? What condition was the head in when you brought it in? Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 I never look in here for build threads. Your truck is damn near perfect! Lower it a couple inches and you get a gold star from me! What shop was that? What condition was the head in when you brought it in? thanks man! thats the plan, going to pull out a leaf or two, then pull the bump stops off the front, and lower the front more. The name of the shop was Custom Machining, they are in dallas. the head everything taken off from it, and had a gouge near a coolant passage. he checked everything for evenness and even bead blasted it for free! Quote Link to comment
stretch Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 A87 back from the machine shop! new guides, springs, vavles, retainers, etc, bead blast and resurface. total of $250. not too bad. definetly want to go back to this shop also got some nearly new tires of CL for my stock wheels! :cool: im super stoked, ive been wanting this look very long. the wheels were $50, $100 powdercoated, $150 for the tires and an extra set of chrome wheels, for a total of $300 to do this whole set up :D 195/75 matrix multi miles. the next thing will be chrome lug nuts and center bullet caps, or dog dishes Dude that looks bad ass. are thos the tires I told you about, lol Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Have you put the cylinder head back together yet? Here are a few checks you should make. If the top or the bottom surface of the head was machined, you may need to put some shims between the camshaft towers and the head, to preserve the distance between the cylinder head and the camshaft. Machining either surface moves them closer together. A little closer is OK, you can use hole number three on the camshaft sprocket. If hole number three still will not allow the V-notch on the sprocket, to meet the groove in the can thrust plate, you need shims. After putting the cam towers back on, put the camshaft in, and make sure it turns freely with out the rocker arms. Any binding when turning, need to be fixed. Make sure the valves have plenty of adjustment left with the valve lash set. Make sure the surface wiped on the rocker arm by the camshaft does not go off either end of the pad. Ideally it will be centered on the pad. If the valves do not have plenty of adjustment left, or the rocker arm pad is not centered, the valve stem is the wrong length, that need to be fixed. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Dude that looks bad ass. are thos the tires I told you about, lol thanks man! i really like them, they look better, the truck steers easier, handles better,and takes bumps easier too! :unsure: i dont remember.... @DanielC the head is all together minus the cam. thanks for the heads up. the truck is coming apart tomorrow night, and will be coming back together saturday Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 My buddy chad works at custom machine. He prolly did the work on your head. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 My buddy chad works at custom machine. He prolly did the work on your head. yes, i believe that was his name Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 so i have found nearly all the info i need on doing the swap tomorrow, but i could not find anything on cam support bolt torque. also, i am replacing all timing components, and my book (for L16) suggests using position 1 on the cam sprocket for new chains, is that what i would go with my L20b? thanks Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 So i got it all back together, everything timed and what not, but i ran into a problem. It won't start. I think it's a carb/timing problem because it cranks just fine, it has spark at all 4, i checked and rechecked my firing order and its right. It acts like it wants to start, kind of firing but not enough to keep running without the starter. So hopefully my brother can give me a hand with it after work, but I'm lost on it. Kinda disappointing after all that work. Any ideas on what it could be? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Turn the crank to TDC, pull the valve cover and make sure #1 cyl. cam lobes are at 10am and 2pm, pull the dist. cap and make sure the rotor is pointed at #1 wire, which will be about 3:30 to 4pm, firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 counter clockwise. I messed up the oilpump shaft the first time I tried to start my LZ23, had to drop the oilpump and re-install it correctly. Here is 10am and 2pm Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 thanks :D here is the z wheel on the truck. no horn button yet, but the horn worked about 1/4 of the time before so its not a big deal. ill get a button eventually. also no more turn signal reset, there is about a 1 inch gap between the wheel and the column cover, which doesnt look horrible, but id rather have a clean look. i really like the feel of the wheel tho and how it looks. thanks jes! i hate that gap between the wheel and the plastic cover,i want to something with mine.nice truck Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 I would go with the dogdish hubcaps and beauty rings right now, but if you go with the center caps, hubcap world has a large selection of them last time I was there, but they have several boxes with several hundred of them, you have to sort threw them to find a set of four. hub cap but not the beauty rings.sorry Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 so did it start yet. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Turn the crank to TDC, pull the valve cover and make sure #1 cyl. cam lobes are at 10am and 2pm, pull the dist. cap and make sure the rotor is pointed at #1 wire, which will be about 3:30 to 4pm, firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 counter clockwise. I messed up the oilpump shaft the first time I tried to start my LZ23, had to drop the oilpump and re-install it correctly. Here is 10am and 2pm what he said ^^^. I had same problem after replacing the oil pump gasket. The distributor driveshaft was off a couple teeth. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Turn the crank to TDC, pull the valve cover and make sure #1 cyl. cam lobes are at 10am and 2pm, pull the dist. cap and make sure the rotor is pointed at #1 wire, which will be about 3:30 to 4pm, firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 counter clockwise. I messed up the oilpump shaft the first time I tried to start my LZ23, had to drop the oilpump and re-install it correctly. Here is 10am and 2pm I just checked all of that, its right. Even the v notch on the cam sprocket lines up with the dash perfectly. The only weird thing is that when i took it apart, the oil pump/dis. Shaft was at the 1:35 position instead of the 11:25. And when i put it back together, i lined up the marks on the oil pump, put it in, and it was still at the 1:35 position. Which still puts the rotor at 4/3:30 position at tdc #1. I've checked my firing order many times, 1342 counter clockwise. I'll check again. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Hmmm. Those marks have done me wrong before. I would try installing it at 11:25. Also this might sound like dumb question but are you getting fuel? Spary some starter fluid in the carb and crank it. If it starts then you're nit getting fuel to carb. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 I just checked all of that, its right. Even the v notch on the cam sprocket lines up with the dash perfectly. The only weird thing is that when i took it apart, the oil pump/dis. Shaft was at the 1:35 position instead of the 11:25. And when i put it back together, i lined up the marks on the oil pump, put it in, and it was still at the 1:35 position. Which still puts the rotor at 4/3:30 position at tdc #1. I've checked my firing order many times, 1342 counter clockwise. I'll check again. Try flipping the order of the plugs at the cap. Like swap 1&4 and 2&3... Quote Link to comment
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