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1971 521


jon521

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drove it today! i adjusted the valves cold but i think i need to do it again because there is a click in the valvetrain......i hope its just valve noise. really nice to drive again. it sounds different too.

 

 

Yea, feels good don't it, and you learned a whole bunch of new things again, soon you will be the one helping other folks. :lol:

Ajust your valves warmed up, when does the click happen, idling or on the hiway in 5th?

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  • 3 weeks later...

dooooooooode just looked at your thread! that looks so sick now! thats just one spline?

 

honestly i am kinda confused on a torsion bar set up. correct me if im wrong here. so one can lower (or lift) the front by turning the adjuster nut at the rear of the torsion bars, correct? OR if one wanted to go lower, he could reindex the bars, or in other words lift the vehicle, remove torsion bar(s) and lift the wheels until the desired postion is wanted, then reinstall the torsion bars, correct?

 

 

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yea just one spline.

 

yea i was a bit confused at first too. but yes you can adjust it up/down with the nuts. yea you have it. when you re-index you have to lift the wheels to get the torsion bar in the position to let you put the bolts back in and be able to start the nut. once you're under there it will become clear. there will be some fine tuning once you have them re-indexed to get both sides even but it's no big deal.

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yea just one spline.

 

yea i was a bit confused at first too. but yes you can adjust it up/down with the nuts. yea you have it. when you re-index you have to lift the wheels to get the torsion bar in the position to let you put the bolts back in and be able to start the nut. once you're under there it will become clear. there will be some fine tuning once you have them re-indexed to get both sides even but it's no big deal.

 

 

alright ill take alook. do i have to raise them to stock height before reindexing?

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alright ill take alook. do i have to raise them to stock height before reindexing?

 

 

dude just swing into mac town one weekend and Ill help yah do it up at my shop! Ive got a nice pit so it can sit on the ground and it makes it way easy to get shit level :D

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dude just swing into mac town one weekend and Ill help yah do it up at my shop! Ive got a nice pit so it can sit on the ground and it makes it way easy to get shit level :D

 

 

really? thanks man, that would be awesome! ill send you a text when i find a week end open and see what your up to!

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dude just swing into mac town one weekend and Ill help yah do it up at my shop! Ive got a nice pit so it can sit on the ground and it makes it way easy to get shit level :D

 

booyah. now that's what ratsun is all about.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So ive been considering getting one of these for awhile now, but i was wondering if anyone had ever bought this or any other item from them?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-510-68-73-or-521-Truck-NEW-Custom-Un-Polished-3-Row-Aluminum-Radiator-/400284627153?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d32d2b0d1&vxp=mtr

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Is your truck overheating?

 

no, but it seems to run hot. and if im on it too much, sometimes the temp goes up. it usually runs with the needle at little before 3/4 of all the way. and i have a new thermostat too.

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So ive been considering getting one of these for awhile now, but i was wondering if anyone had ever bought this or any other item from them?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...2d2b0d1&vxp=mtr

 

He is a ratsun member.

 

Here is the thread about the radiators.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/36126-510-aluminum-radiators-from-datsun-parts-llc/

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no, but it seems to run hot. and if im on it too much, sometimes the temp goes up. it usually runs with the needle at little before 3/4 of all the way. and i have a new thermostat too.

 

There is one thing that I always keep in mind when swapping over differant engines, thermostat housings, anything with senders/sensers that go to gauges or lights, whatever sender/senser the swap has may not be calibrated for the gauge your connecting it to, so the needle might be lower/higher than it was before, I ajust to the new position unless it is obvious that there is an issue.

I have run 521 L20b radiators on all the 521s I have built, hasn't mattered what I have used for an engine so far, SD22/SD25/L20b/LZ23 are some of them I have used so far.

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He is a ratsun member.

 

Here is the thread about the radiators.

http://community.rat...tsun-parts-llc/

 

thanks!

 

 

There is one thing that I always keep in mind when swapping over differant engines, thermostat housings, anything with senders/sensers that go to gauges or lights, whatever sender/senser the swap has may not be calibrated for the gauge your connecting it to, so the needle might be lower/higher than it was before, I ajust to the new position unless it is obvious that there is an issue.

I have run 521 L20b radiators on all the 521s I have built, hasn't mattered what I have used for an engine so far, SD22/SD25/L20b/LZ23 are some of them I have used so far.

 

i see what you mean...so since im running a L20b temp sender to a 521 L16 gauge, it could be reading higher? i am running my stock L16 radiator right now. I had a shop check it once, and they suggested getting a new one because this one didnt flow right (i think they said only 8 or 9 lbs?). any ways, they said i could use it for a bit but suggested getting it recored or a new one. ive been using it since blue lake :D with not really any problems, except for maybe running hot?

 

another thing i was going to try was i was going to warm my truck up, to where the needle is about at 3/4, then use my brothers laser thermometer to get an idea of what the exact temp it is running

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thanks!

 

 

 

 

i see what you mean...so since im running a L20b temp sender to a 521 L16 gauge, it could be reading higher? i am running my stock L16 radiator right now. I had a shop check it once, and they suggested getting a new one because this one didnt flow right (i think they said only 8 or 9 lbs?). any ways, they said i could use it for a bit but suggested getting it recored or a new one. ive been using it since blue lake :D with not really any problems, except for maybe running hot?

 

another thing i was going to try was i was going to warm my truck up, to where the needle is about at 3/4, then use my brothers laser thermometer to get an idea of what the exact temp it is running

 

 

The laser thermometer is a good idea, then you know where you stand.

I have most if not all my 521 radiators re-cored if I intend to use them long term, and they all get 3 core I beleave, not 2 core like the L16 radiator, or maybe the L16 is one core, and the L20b is 2 core, I have the biggest thing that will fit put in there, but it's starting to get spendy.

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ya tell me about it, the shop i took my radiator to last year quoted a recore for my L16 radiator at between 400 and 500. and this shop is apparently usually pretty good on prices. i just was thinking it would be a lot cheaper to buy this 3 core of this guy than try and recore this one.

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So, with some friendly-neighborhood ratsun help, stretch and i took my truck moar lower this weekend :D very, very happy with the results! i did not reindex the torsion bars, only turned them down, and pulled 3 leafs out of the back. it rides SO much better now. it takes corners easier and goes over bumps easier. i have not bottomed out yet, but we'll see. here it is :)

 

some before shots:

IMG_20120331_101737.jpg

IMG_20120331_101800.jpg

IMG_20120331_101821.jpg

after

IMG_20120401_105137.jpg

IMG_20120401_105203.jpg

IMG_20120401_105332.jpg

 

and just for fun

IMG_20120401_105508.jpg

it looks so small haha

 

thanks again stretch! ill have to come out there again sometime!

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