Jump to content

Tricks of the trade


Recommended Posts

I thought of this while putting my L20 into my 620 truck today. I want to share it with you all. When putting in the motor the oil pan hits the steering link before you can engage it to the tranny. Instead of taking it out just turn the wheel all the way to one side & you get just the rite amount of clearence. it also helps to have the truck jacked up a little as well as the tranny jacked up all the way to the firewall.

 

Another one is for getting to the pesky bellhousing bolt on the top driversside :angry: Jack up truck get under with a ratchet with all your extentions (about 2 feet worth) and a swivel on the end. Go up thru the tranny tunnel & have some one up top guide you on.

 

Now share your lil tricks :D

Link to comment
  • Replies 28
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Annoyed with upper bellhousing bolts on D21s? Just use a hole saw inside the cab! :D It's way quicker, but I still don't recommend it unless a race truck.

Link to comment

To fill tranny oil get kitchen funnel at dollar store and about 3 feet of garden hose. Run hose down beside rear of motor and into the fill hole, stick funnel into other end. It's slow but steady.

Link to comment

On a 510 sedan, replace the studs that mount the mustache bar to the diff cover with bolts. Makes removing the diff much easier in the future.

 

 

That is the only one that I can think of that is universal. I have so many little tricks that I use that are specific to my car and setup it's not even funny. I guess that is what you get when you have pulled the engine and tranny as many times as I have had to. :blink:

Link to comment

To remove the stock Hitachi carb (or reinstall) buy the cheapest Chinese 12mm combination wrench and bend the open end over 45 degrees.

 

To remove/install the lower manifold bolts (especially on the 78-80 L20Bs) get a 12mm swivel socket (one with a built in universal)

 

Crank pulley nut won't budge? If the engine is still completely together in the car, put a breaker bar on the bolt and crank it over with the starter.

 

On a 78-81 510, if you break off the hood prop rod retainer, there's a spare behind the grille holding the hood release cable (also useful when junkyarding)

Link to comment

I fill my transmissions by purchasing one of them fluid moving pumps that you operate with a drill, and a couple feet of clear hose on each end, put one end in the gear lube and the other in the tranny hole, and pull the trigger. Yea, i know they are not for petrolium products, but it beats the @#%& out of using one of them siphon pumps, and a half hour of my time, and the pain in my neck. They last a couple years before the fluids eat the pump out, and I keep the system in a 3 1/2 gallon bucket up on a high shelf out of the way.

Link to comment

On a 510 sedan, replace the studs that mount the mustache bar to the diff cover with bolts. Makes removing the diff much easier in the future.

 

X2! Just did this when I put my LSD in. My question is there any tangible reason for the studs over bolts?

Link to comment

X2! Just did this when I put my LSD in. My question is there any tangible reason for the studs over bolts?

 

Studs provide more clamping force than just a bolt.

 

 

Easy way to get to those pesky 620 upper dash bolts. Thats a large phillips bit in the socket. :)

 

Picture005-5.jpg

Link to comment
2eDeYe' date='18 May 2011 - 11:11 AM' timestamp='1305735117' post='478187']

Studs provide more clamping force than just a bolt.

 

 

Easy way to get to those pesky 620 upper dash bolts. Thats a large phillips bit in the socket. :)

 

Picture005-5.jpg

 

 

Cant fit one of those in the roadster so I ground down a phillips bit and used a pair of vice grips.

Link to comment

When installing a rear main seal on an L series engine go to lowes and get a pvc 4" pipe thread in cap (like you would use on the rear of a potato gun) it fits the seal perfect, and you can hit it hard without it breaking!

 

 

Holy shit, I never thought of that! F Yeah! I always use my hard wood block (maple or ash) and beat around it carefully. Never had any problems with sealing, but I like your idea much better. Don't have a lathe, so I can't turn my own yet.

Link to comment

By the way, here's a really good tip. You know those annoying driveshaft center support bearings most Datsun trucks have? (Except 520/521s) It sucks having to press them on and off. The nut torque is something like 174 ft-lbs. It's absolutely retarded.

 

What you can do is chuck the driveline up in a lathe, or if you're patient, take some sandpaper, and cut down the surface the bearing presses onto. I sandpapered mine down so it's still darn tight, but you can run it on with the nut, and tap it off with a hammer. Makes changing out bearings in future one heck of a lot easier. Especially if you find a carrier bearing has been manufactured incorrectly and you have to screw with it to get proper clearance.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.