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Feng Shui (The 510 Experiment) (Pics fixed through page 7..)


Josh K.

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What i have seen is people put the caliper on the bottom of the control arm, solves the clearance issue, but looks a little weird. Another option is to fab up different brackets for the E-brake to change the angle of the cable.

Of course this is after you cut the body, so makes no difference now.

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Thanks for the info. I considered both options but like you said, running on the bottom looks silly and isn't an option and making a bracket that would hold up to the massive forces the cable exerts means that not a viable option either.

 

I had to clearance for the u-joints and make enough room for the future CV joint so I just decided to take care of all in one fail swoop tongue.gif

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nice man your doing things i wished to do. i want a low car. that bearing kit would be awesome. there was a kit on ebay au but the aussies had nothing good to say about it. running polys with byrons brackets might bind up. nissan bushings might be hard to get. a few aftermarket replacement are available. keep it up man :thumbup: and post those ride height pics!

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that bearing kit would be awesome. there was a kit on ebay au but the aussies had nothing good to say about it.

 

DPR has a Spherical Bearing kit but it's $295 blink.gif

 

I set the ride height at 5.125" (If I remember correctly) to the bottom of the rocker flange. I know this isn't super low but with the 225/45-15's I only have 2.125" of wheel travel. I was hoping for more but this means I'll just have to run stiffer springs.....

Today the bearings and toe/camber plates get here. My co-worker is turning a piece of Steel pipe 3.75"OD x 3.5"ID for my new exhaust tube.... Gonna throw the x-member in the mill tonight and open up the hole. Gotta install the exhaust tube before working on the camber plates. Then open up the e-brake cable holes and make a clamping mechanism to hold them from moving in and out.

Work work work...

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So I'm starting on the Spherical Bearings and I feel like a 0.500" wide strip of 0.090" wall tubing is not enough to keep the rear control arms attached to the car....

 

I'm going to cut off the stock "bushing tubes" and make new ones.

 

Here's a sectional of my first model.

 

SPHERICAL21.png

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Nice progress!!!!!!!!!!

 

I like the drawing for the Spherical Bearings the only thing I worry about is welding may cause the tube to distort. Which will make it tough to press in the bearing. Unless you leave them in while you weld it. I guess it depends on which bearings you get. The Teflon coated ones may not like the heat to much :) Count me in for a set :)

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Josh, I wish I could play in your playground for a while! (And that I knew how to use all the equipment in that playground.) Jeeze man, fabbing your own spherical bearings? You are out of your mind in the best possible way!

 

I just started playing in Google Sketchup to try to grasp working in 3 dimensions. I am a zygot.

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Josh, I wish I could play in your playground for a while! (And that I knew how to use all the equipment in that playground.) Jeeze man, fabbing your own spherical bearings? You are out of your mind in the best possible way!

 

I just started playing in Google Sketchup to try to grasp working in 3 dimensions. I am a zygot.

 

Ever use Blender 3D? Might be more up your alley. Go check their galleries, pretty amazing stuff.

 

 

Josh, sometimes I wish I did what you do.

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Nice progress!!!!!!!!!!

 

I like the drawing for the Spherical Bearings the only thing I worry about is welding may cause the tube to distort. Which will make it tough to press in the bearing. Unless you leave them in while you weld it. I guess it depends on which bearings you get. The Teflon coated ones may not like the heat to much :) Count me in for a set :)

 

I plan on tig welding them and cooling as I go. The cross section at the bearing is pretty thick, the sleeve that hold the bearing can be pressed in before welding so it can distort a bit.

 

I'm programming them right now and my buddy is tooling up the lathe :)

 

 

 

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I plan on tig welding them and cooling as I go. The cross section at the bearing is pretty thick, the sleeve that hold the bearing can be pressed in before welding so it can distort a bit.

 

I'm programming them right now and my buddy is tooling up the lathe :)

 

 

I was wondering if that was the way you were going to go about it. They turned out really nice! I wonder if Mcmaster sells anything like that. Seems like something that would be out there. If not you should do a run on a CNC. Just an idea :)

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If not you should do a run on a CNC. Just an idea :)

 

I was thinking about it. I could load up the bar feeder and got nuts wink.gif

 

This was done on a CNC but a Manual Tool Change version. I use this Lathe (ML17) and the Tree Mill since they're easy to setup and we usually don't have jobs in them.

 

I have access to a 2 Axis lathe with Bar Feeder and a 4 axis Lathe (Milling capable) with Bar Feeder. The 4 axis would be best cause I can drill and tap the grease fitting and finish the tube in 1 Op.....

 

 

 

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Hey Josh just a heads up that DP sells a kit for this and also for the front LCA they come with teflon lined bearing too, but since you have the ability I guess it not as important as it would be to some others. I love seeing your updates your doing that dime a nice make over

 

Clayton

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  • Josh K. changed the title to Feng Shui (The 510 Experiment) (Pics fixed through page 7..)

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