Josh K. Posted October 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 Some more pics just.... why not?? Nice clean corners! The disaster that is my "resto garage"... That's it for this weekend! Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Just ordered one of these: This will really help with all the shrinking and stretching I have to do on the passenger quarter. I'll also use it on the rear light panel. Quote Link to comment
Twodoordime Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 This is amazing to me. As a person thats too much of a girl to attempt his own rust repair im amazed at this build as well as a few others on ratsun...Come to sd...i got work for you sir. great job! Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 It's really not that difficult, just take your time and think it through. You have to have a plan! I have the most basic tools (besides the machining stuff, that's at my day job) and have a $50 weekly budget to keep me moving along. Of course once I start laying down mud it will get really expensive I've never done a single piece of body work before this project. I know for a fact if someone else can do it then I sure the hell can. It might not be "as nice" but you gotta learn some how Quote Link to comment
Twodoordime Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 F**k it, next check im ordering some patch panels. Ive been putting this off for 6 years... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Just make sure you use a Mig welder with Gas. The flux core welders are hard to weld with and if it's painted there's a chance of oxidation killing your paint job... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 LOTS OF PICS!! Got started on the driver wheel tub. Started with the quarter hung. Measured out from the wheel well flange to the quarter. This is so I have a rough line to cut away from. Now I laid out a line a couple inches back from the quarter panel. Now cut. Now back on with the quarter panel. I used 1/8" welding wire and made a skeleton..... Quarter panel back off.... Then I layed the cut off section of the fender back on. Tacked it in place and then removed the whole thing. Now I have this. I just have to cut where the welding rod shows me, mount the fender/wheel tub back on. Trace and make a flange face then place the quarter back on and weld the flange to the wheel tub. Eventually attach it to the quarter..... Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Sweet, that is a pretty cool move right there! I was staring at my qp's yesterday... They are poorly fiberglassed, and the body line from the bumper down is gone. Been looking at the replacement qp patches on Australia ebay, and dreaming. But I fear if I went down that road I would uncover much worse things under the outter layer. Anyway, this thread inspires ans terrifies me at the same time! Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I've never done a single piece of body work before this project. I know for a fact if someone else can do it then I sure the hell can. It might not be "as nice" but you gotta learn some how I completely agree with this attitude! I got my attitude many years ago, after paying professional mechanics for brake work and it came out "F'd" up! I decided at that point that I could "F" it up for free!! Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Sweet, that is a pretty cool move right there! I was staring at my qp's yesterday... They are poorly fiberglassed, and the body line from the bumper down is gone. Been looking at the replacement qp patches on Australia ebay, and dreaming. But I fear if I went down that road I would uncover much worse things under the outter layer. Anyway, this thread inspires ans terrifies me at the same time! Thank you sir. It's definitely scary opening one of these old cars up...... I completely agree with this attitude! I got my attitude many years ago, after paying professional mechanics for brake work and it came out "F'd" up! I decided at that point that I could "F" it up for free!! :) Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 All trimmed up and fits perfect!!! Just gotta make a template for the other side and then make the flange.... And finish the front section that ties to the rocker.... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Should I just weld the tubs directly to the quarters? maybe 2" spacing and then seams seal them?? I'm thinking it might be a whole lot easier and just as good. If I weld the "wheel" side of the tubs to the quarter it would be easy to use a hammer to correct the panel warpage as I welded. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Doing some research I keep finding people saying to either bond them or just use seam sealer. ''NEVER'' weld the tub to the quarter panel... You will see it through the paint.. It appears leaving a 1/16" gap and filling with sealer is the way to go... Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 I would think that as the body flexed over time, any welds to the outer sheet metal would cause dimpling or damage...or simply tear away.....all of which would ruin any body work. I like the seam sealer idea. How was the original attached? Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Originally the quarter mated to the wheel well with a parallel shear not perpendicular. I'm thinking a 1/2" flange and panel bonding glue is the best route. I'm also considering bonding the flares on to prevent warping. This would require a lot of skill to shape the flares to the quarter. We'll see how close the flares fit up before I decide. I'll grab another Golf Fender next weekend as I have plenty of work to do before then.... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 So I was messing around....... Never seen a flat paneled, hellaflush 510 before..... Quick! Someone talk me outta what I want to do!!!!! Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 herrafrush Man, I am mesmerized by your avatar. I watched it for a minute straight. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 flares are needed Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Thanks for the feedback Bonvo. Here's the wheel clearance at the ride height pictured above. This leaves 1" of wheel travel before the a-arm hits. Hitting A-Arm 1 Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 modifly the sheet metal to get more travel? seriously with the camber corrected and flares that would look fucking bad ass Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 I don't want it lower, nor do I want to modify the sheetmetal. I just want it to look the best it can. I guess I should just go get a fender to cut up tomorrow and do a mock up. I'll also make some washers to use as spacers so I can get the wheel out flush as possible. Stay tuned! Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 I definitely feel going full width on the flares like the fronts will be too much in the back. It would look out of balance. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 but the back is where you need the wide meats the most full flares and the fattest tires tou can get on there is my opinion but its not my car Quote Link to comment
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