Josh K. Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Thanks Indy! So I made myself go out to the shop tonight.... Here's the current ride height. Don't know if i should go moar lower. I'll check the height again this weekend before proceeding, gotta check the front before making the decision. Stance is very important but not more important than suspension travel and safety. I don't have the bump stops in the pics. At this height I have 3.25" of wheel travel. Here's the clearance at top. Full compression. So I need to make around a 1" spacer, I'll measure this weekend and start machining one. I'll basically cut right to the body line and let the flare arch out from there. This will give me clearance under compression and as close to flush as possible. I'll still have some gap but hopefully the camber change will allow me to push out at ride height and clear under compression. See front for where rear flare will mate up. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 I might go lower and just limit the travel with the bump stops. I believe my car at one time had adjustable stops, I'll have to remake the missing pieces. I like the front height in the pics up at the top of the page..... Or I might just go a little lower with the rear flare.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 Ok, more pics! So I decided to go lower. I set the car on blocks and here's what I'm gonna run.... Rear at ride Height. On the bump stops. Wheel still turns without hitting. Front Height. I LOVE THIS SHOT!!!!! I still have to figure out how i'm gonna deal with the camber and toe issue....... Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted July 1, 2011 Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 That stance is perfect, and just enough clearance too. Great job dude Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 Thanks for the compliment! I'm planning on buying one of these tomorrow http://www.racerpart...r_Camber_Gauges Then next is building a toe gauge, slot the cross member and set the toe/camber before mocking the flares. I'm really more worried about getting the toe dialed then the camber. I'm also gonna build an adjustable wheel spacer setup so when I get to the point of mocking/fitting the flares I can move the wheel in and out to get nice and flush. Once its all set and locked I'll turn some wheels spacers.... I'm really more worried about getting the toe dialed then the camber. Hopefully I can pick up another Golf fender this weekend also... Quote Link to comment
Wide14u Posted July 1, 2011 Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 i do like this build Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 Thank you sir! I gotta start making some real progress on this thing! Today I ordered the Caster/Camber Gauge, should be here next Friday. Tomorrow or Sunday I plan on slotting the cross member and punching a second exhaust hole.... Then on to making the Toe Gauge (Still thinking about how I want to make this) and finally the Wheel spacer Gauge. I'm hoping to have the rear alignment all done and start fitting the sheet metal back on next weekend..... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2011 I forgot I have Nasal Surgery (again) on Thursday so the week after that is shot.... I got the cross member out. Not liking these threads at all. Hopefully my parts car has some better ones or else its lathe time... All ready for tomorrow. I decided instead of adjustable I'll just make it so I can let the inside control arm bushing float while I dial the toe/camber. Once I'm happy I'll fab new mounts. This way I have solid mounts and feel alot safer at high speeds... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2011 Went Mountain Biking today, had fun! Then went to the shop and removed the driver side axle and brake assembly. I plan on putting disc's on the back, new wheel bearings and longer wheel studs. Here's the stud's I'm ordering http://www.summitrac...s/ARP-100-7719/ Should give me plenty of length and will press right in, just need to swap the fronts out so all lugs are 12x1.5 Here's the control arm. Still gotta do the passenger side... I'm still up in the air over what to do with the cross member, figured I would sleep on it a few days before hacking it up Also gotta decide on the rear brakes so I can order a Disc for mockup and designing the wheel spacer. I want the axle to align the rotor and I'll machine a counterbore into the axle that will align the wheel spacer. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 Recovered from my Surgery and ready to get busy. I got the Miata lugs and started on the axles today. I pressed out the studs. Chucked the axle in the lathe, faced the flange, faced the boss to 0.275" tall and then put a 2.3125" Dia. counter-bore at 0.0875" depth. This will mate with a boss on the wheel spacer and keep the rotating assembly concentric. I will then clamp the whole assembly together using the ARP studs. Here's the stock axle for reference: Here's the first side done: Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 Mod, please delete Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Got a little more work done today. Spent time prepping the backend. Got the spot welds drilled out, panel removed, just gotta finish grinding the old sheet metal off the wheel wells. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Nice! Way to keep at it. I don't hesitate to cut into my car but I'd be scared of the body work involved in the type of save. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Thanks Phil, maybe we should park our cars next to each other at Canby 2012? I think that's both our finish line goal. I understand what your saying about the body work, unfortunately it's gonna get much worse before it gets better. I'm looking at replacing the passenger panel from the door back possibly on both side. It wouldn't be a big deal but I have never done sheet metal or body work in my life..... I figure I couldn't F' it up any worse then it was I'm pretty confident i'll do a good job. I decided I'm going to do the old school slot method, do a quick and dirty alignment at home and when the car is done throw it on the rack and weld the washers. I have too much other stuff to worry about right now... Here's my schedule. Oct 1st deadline... keep working on the sheet metal. source a complete 280zx brake setup for the back. New powerslot rotors front/rear new wheel bearings. complete rear bushing set. sand blast all components paint and assemble rear suspension on car. Install rear subframe and align. weld/fab wheel wells. weld rear sheet metal back on... replace rockers, both sides.... weld flares on. machine wheel spacers. fab a recessed battery box for passenger side. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 That be sweet ! Replacing the whole quarter would be less work over all. You get rust free rocker and no seam to weld half way. Just finding nos quarters is difficult and bankroll. Youre getting a chance to rework the rear tubs! Do an exhaust tunnel like Jeff did. It's so thin you have to go slow, tack ... Walk away...tack.. Walk away. I'd talk to atom he did a rear clip. Had a better idea on how to do it better next time. Oh and while you're at it. I've seen the 300zx rear hub section welded to a stock arm. Now you have 5 lug disc brakes and cvs. R200. Have to shorten the cvs maybe. Or something like that. Nelson fro Altered motives is the guy to call about that Quote Link to comment
fuzz's '71 510 Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Did you use a spot weld drill on that or a regular "big" drill to remove the spot welds?? Fuzz Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Did you use a spot weld drill on that or a regular "big" drill to remove the spot welds?? Fuzz I used one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DLWWNC seems to hold up good. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 That be sweet ! Replacing the whole quarter would be less work over all. You get rust free rocker and no seam to weld half way. Just finding nos quarters is difficult and bankroll. Youre getting a chance to rework the rear tubs! Do an exhaust tunnel like Jeff did. It's so thin you have to go slow, tack ... Walk away...tack.. Walk away. I'd talk to atom he did a rear clip. Had a better idea on how to do it better next time. Oh and while you're at it. I've seen the 300zx rear hub section welded to a stock arm. Now you have 5 lug disc brakes and cvs. R200. Have to shorten the cvs maybe. Or something like that. Nelson fro Altered motives is the guy to call about that Thanks for the ideas Phil. I'm currently locked in on the rear suspension setup as I already have the 1st of 4 wheels. I'm going to PM Atom and see if he'll chime in on the quarter panels. Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Looking good! Keep it up! Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Here's my schedule. Oct 1st deadline... keep working on the sheet metal. source a complete 280zx brake setup for the back. New powerslot rotors front/rear new wheel bearings. complete rear bushing set. sand blast all components paint and assemble rear suspension on car. Install rear subframe and align. weld/fab wheel wells. weld rear sheet metal back on... replace rockers, both sides.... weld flares on. machine wheel spacers. fab a recessed battery box for passenger side. I have the rear brakes from a 280zx that I have decided I'm not going to use, hit me up if your interested. By the way, your a brave guy cutting into that car so deep. can't wait to see it put back together! Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 I have the rear brakes from a 280zx that I have decided I'm not going to use, hit me up if your interested. By the way, your a brave guy cutting into that car so deep. can't wait to see it put back together! YGM! Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Thanks Jeff, looks like those are for sure the 79-81 calipers. I'm gonna work a deal with the guy in Pheonix for the 82 setup. I decided to go ahead and replace both quarters from the doors back. I'm gonna drill out the spot welds and take both sides and the whole backend in one piece. I think working with the flaws in the donor panels will be much easier then trying to weld seams and keep stuff from warping. It will also give me material in the wheel arches to attach the flares. The passenger side quarter took a hit in the front lower corner right behind the door jamb, this will take a little bit of work but no biggie, the drivers side looks to be pretty straight. Another bonus is like Phil said the rockers will be easier to replace. The donors rockers aren't that great but my project car has the bottoms all smashed to hell... Here's some pics of the donor. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 Still stripping..... Hoping to have both quarters off the project car this weekend, maybe rockers also. I'll keep working on stripping the donor panels also. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 More tearing down.... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 And....... Quote Link to comment
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