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hobbes_the_cat

Senior Member
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About hobbes_the_cat

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bremerton, WA
  • Cars
    1969 510 wagon
  • Interests
    Dattos

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  1. I like Offerup. Still free. Reasonable format and has a large number of users. Allows you to rate buyers and sellers after a transaction so it helps you weed out the deadbeats. I HATE searching Facebook marketplace. It’s impossible to to find anything without wasting tons of time. Craigslist is way down on listings for sure. No more beaters but also no more fake ads.
  2. ^^^ if you post a paid ad you can still get flagged but an actual human will review your ad to see if the flags are legitimate before pulling it, unlike before when a computer algorithm would pull your ad. Sounds like the free ads are still community policed.
  3. https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/d/bremerton-1984-nissan-300zx-turbo/6874014113.html ^^^ this is me. Parting out an 84 300zx Turbo. Hit me up if you need parts.
  4. That looks like a ton of fun! Thanks for sharing the vids. ...and it looks way better with the new/used valance.
  5. I think they are some kind of thin cheap metal because I have seen them rust before. Had one that rusted all they way through.
  6. Hmmm I should double check my meter to be safe. It’s been a solid performer so I didn’t doubt it. It’s a Greenlee not harbor freight. ?
  7. Ok. Thanks for checking my work. Once this crazy snow quits I’ll go get it tested.
  8. I just swapped in a rebuilt internally regulated alternator into my 69 510 wagon. The alternator is for a 1980 200sx. Problem (I think ) is i’m getting 15.6v at idle. Sometimes drops to the mid 14’s but mostly stays over 15. Never higher than 15.6 though even when at high revs. Alternator light on the dash is illuminated when key is on but immediately goes out when the engine fires up. I followed everyones advice and write ups about removing the external reglator and splicing the yellow and white wires and the white/red and white/black. Then at the alternator i connected the yellow to the “S” and the white/black to the “L”, black ground is connected to the alternator case and the big white/red wire to the “B” lug. Connections feel tight and I unwrapped a bunch of the harness and see no damaged wires. I have heard cold weather can have an effect on this. It’s about 32F in the garage right now. Battery is new and holds 12.68 when the car is not running. Is this just just a cold weather thing or did I get sent a junk rebuild? Or is there something I’m missing?
  9. So I got it running! After cranking it forever I decided to put it on the battery charger to avoid running the battery dead. It wasn’t even struggling to spin the engine yet but I did it as a precaution. A min after plugging it in it fired up! Ran terrible, wouldn’t rev, backfired like crazy but I kept it going till it would hold idle and it gradually felt like it was running better every minute. So I I’m plugged the charger and checked the voltage at the battery and it was still at 12v... alternator is not charging. I hooked up the charger again and let it run with the charger hooked up and it eventually ran great. So I think this is the conclusion. Battery had more than enough juice to spin the starter, run lights ect but wasn’t quite enough to power up the electronic ignition. That’s why it ran pretty good when I first fired it off, the battery was fully charged but as it ran down (even tho still reading 12.2 volts) wasn’t enough to keep the ignition going. I’m going to get the alternator working and see if that was it. Thanks for all all the help guys.
  10. Oh my goodness. I’m going to pull my hair out. Since the new module didn’t make a difference and I still had no spark I swapped the original module back in. Looked over the distributor real good to see if there was any loose parts and all looks smooth. Reinstalled the dizzy and now it has spark. Still not enough to start but its coughing and sputtering... thats all I did. Didn’t adjust the timing wen I pulled the dizzy, I pulled the base with it.
  11. Battery is new. Cables are newer and clean. No corossion at connections or otherwise. Sonce im getting correct voltage at the coil what is left? I hope this module is not junk, the made in China sticker doesn’t inspire confidence when it comes to electronics.
  12. It’s not hit or miss. The starter spins the engine very strong and the voltage at the wires and coil are a solid 12v. I just have no spark.
  13. Yes I have 12v at the coil for on and start as well.
  14. Yup with the starter disconnected it jumped back to 12v so yes I have 12v at on and start positions.
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