Josh K. Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Here's what Is settled on, thicker and better! gotta make a few tweaks and check the clearances on the car (e-brake cables and such...) Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 You gonna mill those out of a solid piece? Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 Yes sir! 6061-T6 1.0" thick :-) Looks like the ebrake cables are gonna be an issue....... car is too low. Ill post more pics tonight Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted December 12, 2011 Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 Looks good. Your using the brakes off the rear of a 280zx? Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 Yup. 82-83 Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted December 12, 2011 Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 Thats awsome. You may have to start selling those brackets. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 They would be some spendy brackets ;) I'll look into it though as there isn't a 280zx adapter available on the market and the drawing from Dime Quarterly is missing atleast one key dimension. I put the passenger caliper on the driver side and driver on passenger. Tonight I'll swap them and see if it helps along with possibly rotating them back. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 So it looks like running driver/driver, passenger/passenger is moar better on the slammed ride height. I'm going to notch the body a little just to make sure I don't rub the cable. Here's some pics. You can see I have a long way to go before hitting the frame. I plan on trimming the body and gusseting the back side to get more up travel. This is just a reference shot for ride height. Here's the cable hitting at that height. Her'es where I started cutting. This is the max before you have to notch. I'll just notch upwards maybe 1.5" or so, we'll see. This would be perfect for a slightly slammed car. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 Just ordered some QA1 Spherical bearings for the front and rear control arms. No binding bushings in my car Quote Link to comment
EmpireFab Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 nice build, keep it up. so you use the rabbit fender for the flare? Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 Thanks! Yes, MK1 Rabbit Fender. Quote Link to comment
jinx3 Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 Josh, Great project - you are giving me motivation for my 510. I am in the same boat as you - learning as I go... Your car is looking great, and I enjoy seeing your machining work! Quote Link to comment
72 wide wagon Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 hello josh new to this forum and let me say nice work. ive seen many fab work from pros to garage hobbiest and u my friend has lots of drive. i my self do lots of metal work like vintage race care restorations and can recognize good work if u have any questions i can help. for example heat shrinks with oxyactlyn torch or metal finish work. been doin it for 11 years now. happy to c so much drive in one person. keep up good work. soon u will c my 72 wagon here, planning on doing a two door and wide body plus aluminum work on front clip. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Thanks for the kind words guys, it helps keep me motivated for sure! 72 wide wagon, I'll definitely drop you a line if/when I need some advice! Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Just ordered a set of Byron's toe/camber brackets from Dave @ FutoFab. I decided I have way too many other things to do then reinvent the wheel..... I might design the spherical bearing setup so that I can sell them as DIY kits... We'll see. I should see the bearings on Monday and can't start modelling them up. Stock photo: Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Finished up the Caliper Mounts. Started by making another plastic part for mockup: Then began making the finals out of 6061-T6: Done on the machine: This is called "Window Framing". It allows you to reach both sides of the part easily: All finished: All bolted on: Discovered the plastic was distorting and gave me a bad dimension, had to mill off some of the bracket to center the caliper, no biggie. I fixed this is my solid model in-case I make another set: All finished and mounted! Quote Link to comment
Mr.Dean_Yates Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Riding high with no weight in the car: Springs out with about the height I'm going for.... Looks like I'll need a 1" (appx.) spacer in the back. I'm not sure about the width of the tire, I might try the 205. I kinda feel like the ballon tires on the other wheels are making this one look small..... opinions? DID YOU GET REID OF THE SOLID FACE WHEELS?! if not ill buy them!!! :lol: Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Awesome! :) Curious about the "window framing".... Was there a sacrificial piece underneath or did you do the cut from the other side as well...if so, how did you register the part whan you flipped it over? Interesting design left behind by the cutter. Did you do that intentionally? It doesn't seem like the most efficient tool path from the tiny bit I know about cnc milling....very tiny bit. I'm guessing that chunk of aluminum is pretty spendy too!! :) Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 DID YOU GET REID OF THE SOLID FACE WHEELS?! if not ill buy them!!! :lol: Sorry, sold them Awesome! :) Curious about the "window framing".... Was there a sacrificial piece underneath or did you do the cut from the other side as well...if so, how did you register the part whan you flipped it over? Interesting design left behind by the cutter. Did you do that intentionally? It doesn't seem like the most efficient tool path from the tiny bit I know about cnc milling....very tiny bit. I'm guessing that chunk of aluminum is pretty spendy too!! :) I cut from both sides. Just dial one edge, pick up that corner for your origin and follow it to the back side. Works great. You can pin it if the tolerances are tight. The swirl design is from the first pocket depth. It was 0.125" Deep and the shape of the whole profile. The toolpath is called High Speed Machining. It is a constant tool engagement that allows very high feed rates. Here's Iscar hyping it. http://youtu.be/GCZqu5XnKJg Quote Link to comment
fuzz's '71 510 Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Sorry, sold them I cut from both sides. Just dial one edge, pick up that corner for your origin and follow it to the back side. Works great. You can pin it if the tolerances are tight. The swirl design is from the first pocket depth. It was 0.125" Deep and the shape of the whole profile. The toolpath is called High Speed Machining. It is a constant tool engagement that allows very high feed rates. Here's Iscar hyping it. http://youtu.be/GCZqu5XnKJg Yes the high speed machining keeps constant tool engagement at all times, works really good for mold or pocket work. Glad to see somebody actually using it, some guys just do a pocket from center out and not let the profile dictate the tool path. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Exactly! I use it for every thing I possibly can. I started working on the rear suspension again tonight, mocking up the e-brake lines, checking clearances and hacking sheet metal.... I need to get the toe/camber brackets on, set the ride height, set the camber, dial the toe and then I can get back to work checking clearances. Tomorrow I'm gonna get the car set at ride height and make some blocks so I can drop the car back down to the exact height when needed. I need a baseline to dial the alignment to. I have a camber gauge but still need to figure out how to square up the rearend and set the toe. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 . Byron's back tires look wierd in person,, ,, almost no negative camber .... . :lol: ..... with 15x7 +0 ,, no spacers Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 I agree. The 510 needs camber to look sick. Here's another one with proper camber but doesn't look right to me.... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Well I set the ride height and proceeded to cut up the car some more. When your super low everything hits the body, not sure how most people deal with this? I guess if your running go cart tires it's easy to get low. The u-joints were hitting, e-brake cable, a-arm....... I solved all that today! I'll let the pics do the talking...... Quote Link to comment
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