Josh K. Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 With a 1/4" off the side plates, how much clearance is there between the U bracket and the X-member at the pivot bolt? I actually left the brackets as they were. I moved the Pivot tubes on the inside leg of the LCA back 0.250". Also, in your application with the new pivot tubes welded to the LCA, how much space do you have between this point and the U bracket itself? Can we gain some more toe adjustment here if I were to make you a new set? Effectively moving the slot closer to the X member. I'll look and measure today. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Nice. It will be interesting to see how much faster this one goes on with the experience garnered in the first. This side was soooo much easier. Mainly because the factory wheel arch was still there, I didn't have to fill a huge gap with the flare and the panel was nice and straight.... Only thing I wish I did different is rolled the inner lip before cutting of the flare. My only concern with this is it would distort the shape. Maybe it's better after it's all welded on. I'll never know.... Just gotta finish welding and grinding: Use a section of the flare to patch a rust spot: I also ordered new brake lines, flare tool, wheel bearings/seal/nut. I plan to continue working the quarter and at the same time finish the control arms, plumb and finish the brake lines along with the e-brake system. Then I can button up the back end. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Sooooo..... I spent some time on the phone today with Terry from Fortune-Auto. After going back in forth over measurements of the S13 Struts I suggested that instead of me building a car around their struts, lets build a strut around my car..... Here's the plan. Front: Custom length struts with proper upper hats and steel lower sleeves. This will allow you to cut the 280zx strut tubes off and weld these on. (Normally Fortune Auto lower tubes are aluminium). Custom valved and sprung for your car. Rear: Custom Length struts with proper lower mount diameter/width to bolt to the stock mount along with the proper upper shocks mount (Sandwiched rubber). Custom valved and sprung. He said they would love the opportunity. They would then make these available to the general public as a 510 Specific Application! This means I have to take pictures, mock up, measure, make cad models and submit them. I'm going to work on it this week and hopefully have everything to him by next Monday. Quote Link to comment
Alchemist Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hi Josh, Very nice job on the wheel flares! May I ask you please, what car did you source the fender flares from? it matches the lines of the 510 exceptionally well. Thank you. Ernie Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hey Ernie, VW Golf/Rabbit MK2 Flares Front, MK1 Flares Rear. Josh- Quote Link to comment
Alchemist Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Hi Josh! Thank you for sharing that information. Any more update pictures please? Have you decided on a color scheme yet? Thanks for your time! Ernie Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 This build, pretty much, just blows my mind! Way too awesome!!!! :hyper: Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hi Josh! Thank you for sharing that information. Any more update pictures please? Have you decided on a color scheme yet? Thanks for your time! Ernie Hey Ernie, Haven't decided on a color.... Atleast I have lots of time to think about it This build, pretty much, just blows my mind! Way too awesome!!!! :hyper: Thanks you sir! So I did a bunch of research on how people are installing coil overs. I found a lot of guys are welding the thread sleeve to the stock strut tube, some are even gusseting them. I don't really feel comfortable with relying on Cast Steel-Tubing to hold my wheel on... I know it's being done but if a company wants to limit the liability on a product it's needs to be a little more robust. Here's what I came up with so far. Gotta run it by Fortune-Auto to see if it's cost effective. Edit: Pics gone thanks to Photofucket. Quote Link to comment
djlotus Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Mind = blown. The amount of work put into this car is staggering. Pretty damn cool. Quote Link to comment
Alchemist Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Hi Josh! I would like to apologize for not having read the thread in "detail" when I inquired about the fender flares. You mentioned the type of flares used a few times! Again pardon the redundancy of my inquiry. Your craftsmanship is excellent and really excites me to see your work. I've been in automotive restoration for over 30+ years doing paintwork/bodywork and fabrication on vintage race car/muscle cars, high end collectables but Datsuns have always been my favorite. My wife says I should consider building an updated version of my 610 I built back in 1976 but she says this time "make it radical"! Seeing your work/mods really inspires me to do something with either another 610 (if you can find a 2 door coupe - or I might build another 610 wagon). She did say that i never finished my Zcar considering I had 7 of them not including my race car and that I should consider finishing one and keeping it this time - hahaha! Thanks for the inspiration Josh! More pictures please?!?!?!?! Ernie Quote Link to comment
butcherboyjc Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Back at it! I know this isn't very exciting stuff but it hs to be done! On to the passenger side. Using the template from the driver side: GREAT JOB. I admire your dedication and hard work you are doing on your car. Its coming out awesome. Im wanting to do the same thing to my four door and your thread has tons of information. Thanks for taking the time and posting pictures and progress reports.Those fender wells were a good fit, where did you buy them and what size? Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 Thanks guys! Here's the fender/s I used http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Fenders/Redline/F1075X32-1R.html No real updates. I submitted the drawings to Fortune-Auto yesterday for the coil-overs. Just waiting to get feedback from their Engineer before sending payment. It will be 8 weeks for delivery so I'll be working on getting the panels finished and motor back in and motor tranny mounts remade.... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 Those fender wells were a good fit, where did you buy them and what size? Merlin has a build thread where he put these same fender wells on his 4-door (I stole the idea from him). It might help show how it would be done on your car. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/27400-snowballs-chance-510-rotisserie-resto-project/page__p__403560__hl__%2Btrailer+%2Bfender__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=403560 Quote Link to comment
butcherboyjc Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Thanks for the links. Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted February 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 No problem! Not much to update. Still waiting to get the green light from Auto-Fortune. Assembled the rear brakes in hopes of getting the e-brake system all installed this weekend. After 15min looking at the cables I determined there is no way in hell I'm going to be able to use them. I plan on using a Universal E-Brake Cable kit from Lokar. This can be done any time without fabrication so I decided to just clean the shop this weekend. I'm moving in 3 months so the main goal is to get the motor/tranny back in, make new mounts for both. Then at the same time get the rear body panels back together and get the car rolling/trailer-able. Stay tuned... Josh- Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Sooo I excepted a job at ProCNC in Bellingham. My start date is April 9th. We signed a lease on a place in town with a small one car garage. Nice thing is it's right across the street from Bellingham Technical College. Maybe I can convince the auto body instructor to use my car as a "student project" to finish the body work and paint.... Anyways. I went to the shop yesterday and pressed out the rear wheel bearings and blasted the parts. I then welded the brake line brackets, spherical tubes and finally the caster/camber plates. I plan on welding doublers on the top and bottom of the cross member but that will have to wait. Tomorrow I'll press the bearings and axles back into the arms. Then assemble so I can roll the car back. After that I can put the motor/tyranny back in. Gotta move the car in less then two months.... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted March 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 Damn this rear suspension is taking forever...... Working on the doublers today: Donor Crossmember Mocked up Tacked up Welded Now I'm working on the bottom Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted March 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Oh paint :-) no just wet primer..... I'm gonna primer all the panels before moving. Nice to see "a" color on the quarter... Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted March 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 I got 90% of the passenger flare welded. Need to make a curved aluminum backing plate tomorrow so I can finish the lower section. . Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Nothing major. Used my Hoist today and put the motor back in! Decided since I'm replacing the front core support that I would make it easier and hack the center section out..... Got started on the new tranny mount. Tomorrow I'll make some plates and get it welded up later this week. After that I can put the driveline back in. I'll redo the motor mounts once the car is moved as I have bigger fish to fry... Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 putting it back together to move her huh i did that with my 610 interior its just easier to move it as one piece lol Quote Link to comment
Edz280zx Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 Damn, this build is epic....makes me look like a slacker...lol. Excellent work! Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Thanks Ed! Today I'm putting together a care package for Fortune-Auto so they can finalize the new coil-over kit. It's been a lot of work getting all the details worked out but hopefully with these parts in their hands it will help. I'm hoping we can send the drawings out for manufacturing in the next two weeks :w00t: Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Worked on the tranny mount a little tonight. Moving the house is the priority so I don't have much time.... I wanted to use the stock 510 mount because I really like the rubber isolators. First I ground off the old stripped out nuts that were welded to the body and then moved the tranny mount back one bolt and drilled the second one. This aligned it perfect with the KA 5 speed. The nuts will be tacked to the body when done. I then got the mount cut close enough to allow me to mock up the new filler plate: Then I drilled mounting holes for the rubber tranny mount in some 1/8" plate. Using a grinder I cut a slot 3/4 of the way through to allow me to bend a nice angle with just a hammer and the concrete floor. This will be welded once done. Then bolt it all up and scribe lines. Cut a notch. Hammered some more angle in the flat plate. Final fitment with both mounts resting without pressure. Next is to tack it up. Mockup the passenger side, trim the plate to make it look nice and then weld her up! I'll probably do some boxing on the side to strengthen it up. 1 Quote Link to comment
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