datsunfreak Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 It's interesting your diff didn't have holes in that flat bit at the nose (like what you just drilled). Most of those I've seen do. Very cool. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
LTJ Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Love your parkbrake set up! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 One must always remember with an e-brake setup like this that when one lifts either rear wheel off the ground, the front wheels must be chocked, especially with an open differential, this type of e-brake only works when BOTH rear wheels are FIRMLY on the ground. I don't mean to be negative, but this e-brake type only keeps the drive line from turning, it doesn't stop the rear wheels from turning, so 99+ percent of all Datsuns on a hill will freely move when stopped and one rear wheel is lifted off the ground. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 You mean there are Datsuns out there that don't have welded diffs?? ^_^ 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 You mean there are Datsuns out there that don't have welded diffs?? ^_^ :lol: That is the less than one percent I mentioned when I said 99+ percent, the ones with welded diffs and LSD's might not roll down the hill/driveway, but 99.9 percent of them have an e-brake system that uses the drums/rotors for the e-brake, not the driveline. Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 Hi Wayno I always chock the front wheels when jacking things up from the rear , you never know if the E brake is working on both sides , especially if you don't know the vehicle or if your working on a braking problem . I think I will be ok , this is a Ford 8.8 Locker Diff , I chose this setup because I am running my Nissan 300ZX rear Disc's , so I would have had to make custom backing plates for the little E brake shoes that go under the disc hats , I thought this would be less work , or order part of a Wilwood 8.8 Disc conversion Kit , and hope they fit inside the Nissan Rotors. I call Summit racing and they didn't think you could get the Backing plates and shoes , separate . I built the pinion disc already and haven't heard back from them yet , I don't have time to wait for a No Sorry Dude. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 I brought it up because a lot of folks here might think that doing this would be the way to go instead of going with a traditional e-brake system for disc rear brakes, and I wanted to point out the pitfalls going the route you have went. Since you have a locker/LSD diff, then you likely will not have an issue, but most on here do not have LSD rear ends, especially in a 720 or earlier series truck. I also learned something because I brought it up, it is cool to see that they have brake shoes for the inside of the rotors that are the e-brakes. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Update Still going slow , unfortunately I don't feel all that great ,but trying to get something done . Yes Wayno the E Brake is in the hat of the rotor , many rear disc cars and trucks have been setup this way for many years , it's pretty cool way to do it , some of the others with the caliper and e brake combined are a pain in the butt . Got the fuel tank bracket welded in and made a tab to hold the rear brake line . Still have to fab some rear caliper brackets and make up some hard lines Also on the list is the E brake cable , not sure about a sway bar yet , I have a couple but they are like everything else .......complicated ..... I will also Fish Plate the outside of the frame rails 3 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 That will make it stronger, and make it look better, but you will have to take the wheels off to see it. :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Update Caliper Brackets This is how they are going to go , I had to trim the old backing plate flange , to get the caliper in the center of the disc , getting close to buttoning up the rear section , hopefully I feel decent this weekend and can get it done !!! 3 Quote Link to comment
petercscherer Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 So, you decide to re-energize a stalled project, and in the process, make more progress than most projects on this site do in a year... Seems legit. :D 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 I have to ask where do your skills come from? And how to you get everything so nice? Brackets and stuff? Cad system and cutting table?.... the detail and ingenuity is amazing.... don't even need to say keep up the good work.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 I have to ask where do your skills come from? And how to you get everything so nice? Brackets and stuff? Cad system and cutting table?.... the detail and ingenuity is amazing.... don't even need to say keep up the good work.... Hi Cad system and cutting table LOL LOL ,I am a welder fabricator / mechanic by trade , and my Dad was into building cars and making everything himself. Thanks for the kind words , no I do it all by hand ,( that's why it's taking so F*#&ing long ) I do have a Plasma cutter which helps with the curves and heavy plate , it's all mini grinders drill press , small lathe for spacers and sleeves etc. You just have to take the time to make the parts nice , the better they are the better the project will be. Plus I like to be different. Thanks again 4 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 The fact that you've cut everything by hand makes this project even better than it already was! Damn! 3 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted January 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Update Ok the fun continues .........non floating calipers require the rotor to stay inline , C Clip type axles have end play , one way to eliminate the play is with , C Clip eliminators , which will take for ever to get here and cost about $300 CAD . So I came up with this idea , to remove the play with caps on the end of the Axles , I measured the amount of lash and made custom fit caps. ( I am sure this will raise some comments ) at least I can mount my brakes and continue building , if it becomes a problem the I will make or purchase an Eliminator kit. Also working on the sway bar 2 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Update Just about got the rear end buttoned up , ready to pull the diff out and weld everything up and fish plate the frame notch Here are the brake hose brackets and the sway bar mounts. 7 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 WOW, ur metal work is awesome. my fav break calipers ever 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted February 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 Keeper WOW, ur metal work is awesome. my fav break calipers ever Thanks Keeper I wish I had you talent for body work , I don't do that very well . You guys down there spin a 510 into shape over night ......a very sweet thing 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted February 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 update pulled the diff out today to finish welding it out , got half way and the frigin gas solenoid in my mig welder got stuck on , just put a new switch in a couple of months ago . Oh well it has been very good , wish I had bought the 211 but it wasn't out yet when I got my 175 . You can hook up a 1 LBS spool gun on the 211 and wire feed Aluminum , would be so nice to use for tacking stuff before tiging . Pick up a new solenoid tomorrow , hope they have one !!!!!. 5 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted February 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Update Got the Mig working , finished welding the diff out , and got the ends painted . Next is fish plate the frame sides and weld anything I couldn't get at with the diff in the way . I would like to get the box back on this weekend , need to make some spacer blocks to mount the box . Wish 510 keeper lived around the corner . 6 Quote Link to comment
Stoney Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Wow wow wow wow wow 1 Quote Link to comment
redneck_citylife Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 This is an amazing build!! So much win. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted February 4, 2017 Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 Your diff housing and linkage looks bullet proof. Well all your fab looks bullet proof. Great work man. Can wait for the burnout vid(s) 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted February 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 Your diff housing and linkage looks bullet proof. Well all your fab looks bullet proof. Great work man. Can wait for the burnout vid(s) Hi Thanks , as for burn outs I was thinking of another set of wheels and old tires for that , these 19 inch tires are not cheap !!!! My 350Z wheels will bolt right on !!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted February 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 Update Got the fishy plates on and another coat of paint on the diff , tomorrow I have a couple of welds left to do ( the front link bar mounts ) I would like to get the box back on this weekend , still stuff to figure out , exhaust , diffuser , box mount blocks. 5 Quote Link to comment
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