finney Posted September 24, 2016 Report Share Posted September 24, 2016 Did you decide to narrow the front only after doing the rear end? Would have been cleaner and easier to narrow the whole frame through rebuilding/fabricating new cross members and making new can mounts. Looking good though and work is very clean 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted September 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2016 Did you decide to narrow the front only after doing the rear end? Would have been cleaner and easier to narrow the whole frame through rebuilding/fabricating new cross members and making new can mounts. Looking good though and work is very clean Hi Finney , was hoping not to do any of it, had to do the rear for the wheel clearance , didn't want to change the fuel tank location ,plus the tank is very close to the driveshaft. I wanted to keep the spare tire under the box ( I plan on doing some long distance road trips ), the front tires stuck out too much by 2.625 combined so I looked for the same wheels with a different offset , no luck. So then I thought I would make new front suspension , too much work and time Also the front cab mount brackets were pressed hard up against the rockers and were at the wrong angle . This D21 chassis swap turned out to be a pain in the ass , I too a few weeks ago was thinking maybe just build a new chassis , but that's a ton of work also and you really need a big jig or table to do it right. But this is working out in a round about way . My brother lives in OZ 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted September 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Update Still slogging away at it , built a cross member for the driveshaft hanger bearing , with a notch for the exhaust and a notch on the top for the lines , still need to put in some slots for extra stuff later , here is the first test fit , had to porta-power the frame apart 1/4 of an inch it collapsed when I cut the factory one out , I measured it all before chopping so I would have a reference . Always clamp stuff down when welding Once this is welded in I will yank the engine and trans out and do the front coil overs and the lower control arms , looking forward to that. then the engine and trans go back in to test fit the cab for mounts . 4 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Update More slots in cross member for the future Weld the inside first , then the outside from the outside . Picked up some 2 1/2 inch U bends for when I am ready to start on the exhaust 6 Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Hot damn dude, I know this has been a trial for you to say the least, but I am fascinated watching how you resolve problem after problem, with exceptional skill and creativity. So it sucks for you but is pretty amazing for us to watch. 5 Quote Link to comment
petercscherer Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Yeah, not to make a direct comparison, but this is like watching a baby climb out of the crib. So awesome seeing someone overcome obstacles with perseverance. -Peter 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoney Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Yeah, not to make a direct comparison, but this is like watching a baby climb out of the crib. So awesome seeing someone overcome obstacles with perseverance. -Peter This baby climbed out of the crib straight into a doing brain surgery in a day! Amazing talent 2 Quote Link to comment
Tikka Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 I'm overwhelmed just from reading this thread. Persistence, patience and talent. You've got a lot to be proud of. Can't wait to see the end result. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted September 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 Update Thanks again for all the kind words of encouragement . Back at it again today , pulled the engine and trans to do the front suspension . Cut the shock tower ends off Plasmaed out the factory bump stops Don't worry I will tidy that up and weld in a closing plate , will also add a gusset . Mock up or should I say shock up lol lol Machined up a fixture to locate the tube for the new A arm. New lower shock mounts , remember the trick I showed you guy earlier about doing more than one part at a time. here is a classic example. Rough cut them out , tack them together and finish grind them all at once . I don't have some of the CNC plasma or water jet luxuries some people have , here CNC stands for Cut N Caress with a mini grinder. A fixture for welding the tabs to the plate for the shock to fit into . well that it for today ................cheers 8 Quote Link to comment
Leche Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 This is pure awesomeness! 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Clean work as always. You definitely are not afraid to cut a chaasis!!! LOL Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted October 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Update front lower shock mounts Make new holes for the sway bar bushings to go through Trim the factory shock mounts , not heavy enough for coil overs . Triangulate the lower control arms and yes I made the tube notcher 6 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted October 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Update Worked on the Lower control arms I started on the frame brackets , made a pattern for the back side , but that's all I had time for today . 5 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Update still moving along , should be on upper shock mounts tomorrow these brackets were fun to make ................still more to do with these . there is another plate to go on top of the gussets. 5 Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 jezus man, so much to love here. 1 Quote Link to comment
finney Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 might as well Z the front 30mm whilst your at it. Looking good. I feel your pain on the triangulated arm brackets to the chassis. Something that seems easy, but a pain in the ass. 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Update Lower control arms almost done , was hoping to get onto the upper shock mounts today , but ran out of time , until tomorrow . Home made Dimple Die , not that great on heavier plate , it was designed for sheet metal and aluminum . It works but it takes a few shots at it in the press and then I have to flatten the outside . getting excited to put the cab back on in a day or two , and then we will see what the next problem will be .................oh joy 4 Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 and then we will see what the next problem will be .................oh joy 'Oh Joy' indeed, for us!!! 2 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Serious question, not a criticism - what is the benefit of radiusing the tubing, rather than running it straight, to the new bushing? Is it not, ultimately, enacting the same directional force at the bushing? I know some people do it for shock clearance or an airbag pad, but doesn't look like you're doing that... 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Serious question, not a criticism - what is the benefit of radiusing the tubing, rather than running it straight, to the new bushing? Is it not, ultimately, enacting the same directional force at the bushing? I know some people do it for shock clearance or an airbag pad, but doesn't look like you're doing that... Hi Yes I could have just run the tube at an angle from the control arm ,( like a traditional A arm )I did it this way in case I ever go to bags. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Hi Yes I could have just run the tube at an angle from the control arm ,( like a traditional A arm )I did it this way in case I ever go to bags. Your never going to be done, are you. :lol: 3 Quote Link to comment
LTJ Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Nice work on those dimpled plates! 1 Quote Link to comment
2wheel-lee Posted October 5, 2016 Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 How much clearance between the new rear arm and the frame when the control arm is pivoted all the way up (suspension bottomed out without bump stops, if you do go with air bags)? 1 Quote Link to comment
Fast720 Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 How much clearance between the new rear arm and the frame when the control arm is pivoted all the way up (suspension bottomed out without bump stops, if you do go with air bags)? Hi I am going with QA1 shocks for now because I have them already , but with the suspension almost all the way , with a 1/4 inch before hitting the frame with the a arm tube , and the nineteen inch wheels it would be about two inches from laying frame on the ground , I always wanted a vehicle that goes up and down , seems too cool ................. 3 Quote Link to comment
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