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About petercscherer

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/07/1993

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  • Location
    Lubbock, Texas
  • Cars
    1982 Datsun 720 2WD, 1995 Nissan Hardbody 2wd

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  1. Yeah, I've used pathfinder fenders, hoods, grills, and bumpers on hardbodies before. Also interior parts interchange like seats, consoles, dashes, etc... A lot of the chassis parts will interchange, since both frames have a lot of the same mounting points and holes. Get 4x4 fenders to add 1" on each side. They're also available on ebay reproduction.
  2. Snag a set of s10 LS swap motor mounts, they're like $60-80 and will save you some fab time since they're almost perfect out of the box. Be prepared to slice and raise your tunnel for that stick trans, pretty sure it sits higher on the crankshaft plane than the 4l60e.
  3. Because he want's to be able to change gears to better freeway gears if necessary. I'm pretty sure the the V6 axle with LSD is only available in like 2 ratios.
  4. I couldn't either on my phone, but just looked here on my computer and they show up just fine. They're hosted off my google photos account, that may have something to do with it. ~Peter
  5. Close, they do actually come in handy for grabbing it and pulling it around. But they're primarily there to help me with lifting the table. I built it upside down taking advantage of the relatively level concrete, and then needed to flip it to get it right side up. That was a bit of an ordeal...
  6. Yeah, too many distractions on there. My plan of attack is to get the rebel finished over the next few months and then drag the 95 Hardbody back in and get back on that. Here's pics of the table. 4'x8' 5/16" mild steel (just the top weighs 408lbs!) All the tubing is 1/8" wall so its capable of supporting up to 3800lbs. Overall the table weighs 720lbs!!! Sits at 33" tall which is perfect for rolling a chair under it for tig welding. It'll be the workspace for the rebel so I can make a fixture to bolt the frame of the bike to the table at ride height and do better fabrication without working on the ground and having it roll around on me. ~Peter
  7. And the shutdown hit. Had to prioritize as much paying work as possible and I'm just now getting to a point where I can get back to personal projects. I did just finish building a 4x8 welding table that this bike will fit on so I'm off the ground and able to do some more fixture welding of brackets and the rear assembly. Should have updates soon. ~Peter
  8. Build has been progressing slowly, but I am not going to be posting new updates on this forum. I've been regularly updating my instagram account: @caprockfabshop However with the recent global crisis, I'm forced to focus on my day job more and projects like this truck will take a distant back seat for the duration. Thanks for checking in. ~Peter
  9. Project had to be postponed, got sidelined first with my Hardbody Nissan build, and then life got wacky for me and I've been so busy with work and other commitments that both projects are stalled. I will finish them both this winter hopefully. My plan for spacers, is I've been using washers for mockup, and then I'll measure up what I need and have a buddy machine me a spacer out of round stock the same diameter as the OEM spacer. As for adjusters, I ordered up a set I believe that came on modern Honda 250cc dirt bikes, and I'm going to adapt them for tensioning. I tried to figure out a chain idler wheel to take up the slack, but it look to unwieldy and ugly that I decided the rear mount axle adjusters was better. The bike is really close to completion, I bet I could finish it in a month of solid work once I get time. Feel free to email me directly and I'll help you as much as I can, I have lots of schematics and research on this conversion. caprockfabshop@gmail.com ~Peter
  10. I agree with craZee, considering the 240z doesn't weigh much more than a MX5, 300whp is bordering on a handful to control. Also, being that the client's car is a Widebody, I'm guessing it has good sized tires on it to handle the power? You also will definitely want to do the WRX diff swap and possibly custom axle shafts too. I've toyed with a similar build, but I'm just not as fueled by the "need for speed" as I once was... ~Peter
  11. This project got postponed while I do a suspension swap on the White 1995 Hardbody. Thread can be found here: https://ratsun.net/topic/69795-1995-nissan-hardbody-2wd-build/page/2/ I should be back on the Rebel in Mid May. Planning for a July completion. 😉 ~Peter
  12. I used to run Fram on my 240Z years ago, but saw a similar video explaining their flaws. I soon after switched to K&N or Wix filters on all my vehicles. I don't mind paying extra for the K&N simply for the convenience of the welded nut on the end! Makes removal such a breeze! ~Peter
  13. Next up was exhaust, since I'm ultimately going to have to sneak it around the axle and out the back again. I decided to go with a performance based exhaust system, so I ordered a Pacesetter Header and quickly realized that they aren't totally truthful in their advertising. I'll explain: Pacesetter claims that for the Nissan KA24E 2wd Header, it has 1.5" Primaries and a 2.5" Collector. But what they actually mean is that where the 4 pipes meet is 2.5", but it immediately is reduced to 2.25" at the ball-socket, and further reduced to the factory 2.00" OD of the factory exhaust pipe. Here's a diagram I whipped together in Windows Paint, excuse the quality. So in order to do a 2.5" exhaust system, I had to modify the header. Basically chopping it right at where the pipes collect and begin to taper. And I welded a 2.5" Steel V-Band clamp on. Let me take an aside and explain my decision for 2.5" diameter. I realize that this engine, in very similar tune, also came on the 240SX, and those guys have done a lot of modification and testing over the years of exhaust sizes and systems. From my research online, the common accepted belief is: 2.5" exhaust for N/A, 3.0" for Turbo. So based off of that info, and the fact that mufflers, clamps, and tubing is VERY easy to find in 2.5" diameter, I took the plunge. The header arrived in basic Pacesetter shipping black paint. I know it'll burn off immediately so I totally media-blasted and painted the header with Eastwood Hi-Temp Manifold Grey. Note at this point, I have already deleted the AIV port and the EGR inlet. They'll not be used on this build from here on out. Oh, here's a pic of the inside of the collector. It's a little turbulent in my opinion, but should still breath just fine for a stockish motor. 😉 Completed Header: Then it was time to mock it up in the truck and begin the front half of the exhaust: It's going to have V Band Clamps at about 3' intervals so the whole system can be removed if needed and also so I can install additional drone-resonators or even change mufflers if needed. The whole system will be Hi-Temp Painted inside and out for good heat insulation and a long-lasting finish. I'll be finishing the rest of the exhaust once the bed is back on temporarily and get the new Fuel Tank mocked-up. Here's the new 16gal Tanks Inc fuel tank I picked up. I'll be mounting it behind the axle and should get it mocked up by the end of this week. Really excited to try and finish the back half of this truck and tackling the front suspension soon! ~Peter
  14. Fabrication time! New QA1 Coilovers! Here's the part numbers: Shit, just realized I didn't take individual pics of each component getting tacked in place. I'll try and get some when I pull it apart to fully weld everything. So here's what I'm left with now: It all went together very well. Couple of small Hardbody-specific tweaks that I worked with Jason (Beebani) to correct, but it looks good to me and checks out as totally square! Ride height as you see it there is as low as it will ever be. I'll be cranking the coilovers up once the bed and fuel tank get mounted. But I wanted to set it up at the lower limit to ensure optimum travel.
  15. These next few posts are my progress chronologically. So here's the plan. On May 3rd in San Antonio, is the annual Nismo Fiesta. I've always wanted to go, but haven't had the time or vehicle in recent years. So a few weeks ago, I decided to bite the bullet and lay down the gauntlet. This year, I'm going! And I'm taking the white hardbody, with full coilover suspension, new interior, and full custom exhaust! So, step one was to push the Rebel project to the side, clean the fab area, and pull the truck in: I then took studious notes of wheelbase, ride height at various points, and other dimensions: Then the teardown began: ^ At this point I boxed the frame with 1/8" plate at the points where the new crossmembers would be mounting. A little extra strength never hurt anyone! Then I pulled the rear end and got it degreased and promptly chopped everything off except for the vent cap! And then fully cleaned and prepped the frame for the new suspension mock-up:
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