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About petercscherer

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/07/1993

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  • Location
    Lubbock, Texas
  • Cars
    1982 Datsun 720 2WD, 1995 Nissan Hardbody 2wd

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  1. Project had to be postponed, got sidelined first with my Hardbody Nissan build, and then life got wacky for me and I've been so busy with work and other commitments that both projects are stalled. I will finish them both this winter hopefully. My plan for spacers, is I've been using washers for mockup, and then I'll measure up what I need and have a buddy machine me a spacer out of round stock the same diameter as the OEM spacer. As for adjusters, I ordered up a set I believe that came on modern Honda 250cc dirt bikes, and I'm going to adapt them for tensioning. I tried to figure out a chain idler wheel to take up the slack, but it look to unwieldy and ugly that I decided the rear mount axle adjusters was better. The bike is really close to completion, I bet I could finish it in a month of solid work once I get time. Feel free to email me directly and I'll help you as much as I can, I have lots of schematics and research on this conversion. caprockfabshop@gmail.com ~Peter
  2. I agree with craZee, considering the 240z doesn't weigh much more than a MX5, 300whp is bordering on a handful to control. Also, being that the client's car is a Widebody, I'm guessing it has good sized tires on it to handle the power? You also will definitely want to do the WRX diff swap and possibly custom axle shafts too. I've toyed with a similar build, but I'm just not as fueled by the "need for speed" as I once was... ~Peter
  3. This project got postponed while I do a suspension swap on the White 1995 Hardbody. Thread can be found here: https://ratsun.net/topic/69795-1995-nissan-hardbody-2wd-build/page/2/ I should be back on the Rebel in Mid May. Planning for a July completion. 😉 ~Peter
  4. I used to run Fram on my 240Z years ago, but saw a similar video explaining their flaws. I soon after switched to K&N or Wix filters on all my vehicles. I don't mind paying extra for the K&N simply for the convenience of the welded nut on the end! Makes removal such a breeze! ~Peter
  5. Next up was exhaust, since I'm ultimately going to have to sneak it around the axle and out the back again. I decided to go with a performance based exhaust system, so I ordered a Pacesetter Header and quickly realized that they aren't totally truthful in their advertising. I'll explain: Pacesetter claims that for the Nissan KA24E 2wd Header, it has 1.5" Primaries and a 2.5" Collector. But what they actually mean is that where the 4 pipes meet is 2.5", but it immediately is reduced to 2.25" at the ball-socket, and further reduced to the factory 2.00" OD of the factory exhaust pipe. Here's a diagram I whipped together in Windows Paint, excuse the quality. So in order to do a 2.5" exhaust system, I had to modify the header. Basically chopping it right at where the pipes collect and begin to taper. And I welded a 2.5" Steel V-Band clamp on. Let me take an aside and explain my decision for 2.5" diameter. I realize that this engine, in very similar tune, also came on the 240SX, and those guys have done a lot of modification and testing over the years of exhaust sizes and systems. From my research online, the common accepted belief is: 2.5" exhaust for N/A, 3.0" for Turbo. So based off of that info, and the fact that mufflers, clamps, and tubing is VERY easy to find in 2.5" diameter, I took the plunge. The header arrived in basic Pacesetter shipping black paint. I know it'll burn off immediately so I totally media-blasted and painted the header with Eastwood Hi-Temp Manifold Grey. Note at this point, I have already deleted the AIV port and the EGR inlet. They'll not be used on this build from here on out. Oh, here's a pic of the inside of the collector. It's a little turbulent in my opinion, but should still breath just fine for a stockish motor. 😉 Completed Header: Then it was time to mock it up in the truck and begin the front half of the exhaust: It's going to have V Band Clamps at about 3' intervals so the whole system can be removed if needed and also so I can install additional drone-resonators or even change mufflers if needed. The whole system will be Hi-Temp Painted inside and out for good heat insulation and a long-lasting finish. I'll be finishing the rest of the exhaust once the bed is back on temporarily and get the new Fuel Tank mocked-up. Here's the new 16gal Tanks Inc fuel tank I picked up. I'll be mounting it behind the axle and should get it mocked up by the end of this week. Really excited to try and finish the back half of this truck and tackling the front suspension soon! ~Peter
  6. Fabrication time! New QA1 Coilovers! Here's the part numbers: Shit, just realized I didn't take individual pics of each component getting tacked in place. I'll try and get some when I pull it apart to fully weld everything. So here's what I'm left with now: It all went together very well. Couple of small Hardbody-specific tweaks that I worked with Jason (Beebani) to correct, but it looks good to me and checks out as totally square! Ride height as you see it there is as low as it will ever be. I'll be cranking the coilovers up once the bed and fuel tank get mounted. But I wanted to set it up at the lower limit to ensure optimum travel.
  7. These next few posts are my progress chronologically. So here's the plan. On May 3rd in San Antonio, is the annual Nismo Fiesta. I've always wanted to go, but haven't had the time or vehicle in recent years. So a few weeks ago, I decided to bite the bullet and lay down the gauntlet. This year, I'm going! And I'm taking the white hardbody, with full coilover suspension, new interior, and full custom exhaust! So, step one was to push the Rebel project to the side, clean the fab area, and pull the truck in: I then took studious notes of wheelbase, ride height at various points, and other dimensions: Then the teardown began: ^ At this point I boxed the frame with 1/8" plate at the points where the new crossmembers would be mounting. A little extra strength never hurt anyone! Then I pulled the rear end and got it degreased and promptly chopped everything off except for the vent cap! And then fully cleaned and prepped the frame for the new suspension mock-up:
  8. Alrighty, here's a smallish update. My first attempt at choosing a color for this bike was kind of lame. My brain pulled me back to a similar shade of blue as the Honda XL70 Bobber. Pretty shade, but I can't stand repetition... So, back to the swatches. I tend to like House Of Kolor paint, and that's where I stumbled across this custom blend: House of Kolor Bourbon! It's a blend of Kosamene Copper Pearl and Galaxy Grey. I've NEVER seen it on a bike or car, and it just POPS in the sunlight. This paint changes from Copper, to Root Reer, to Black, and almost to a Bronze, depending on the angle. And that spray out is with only a single coat of clear, imagine this paint buried under 7+ coats! ? In other news, today I sorted out one of the glaring issues on the bike: Where to mount the ignition switch. I didn't want to have it exposed on the frame rail, with wires poking out for people to see, and didn't want to have the keys hanging off the side of the Oil Tank or in the way of the rider's body... So in the shower last night it hit me! Doesn't a Faux Oil Tank need a Faux Oil Filler? A little bit of 2" exhaust tubing, some 1/8 plate cut into a circle with a hole in the middle, and some tig time: I'm really happy with this little detail. It's going to be one of those minuscule things I can point to at the end and show off what a little ingenuity and patience can achieve! I think tomorrow I'll be messing around with the drive-chain alignment, the rear brake system and maybe the wire pass throughs on the frame. Still relatively on schedule, I'm tentatively setting a deadline of April 30th on this bike, and after that: This sucker gets brought back into the shop! WOOHOO! ~Peter
  9. This project is on the list to be revitalized this year. I need to wrap up my Honda Rebel Chopper, and then this truck is getting back into the shop. However, the build plan has changed. A lot. I'll leave you with that teaser for now. ? -Peter
  10. No changes to the truck since my last post. Still driving it every day, even in the snow! ? It's on the schedule for an interior upgrade later this spring. I'm holding off on the suspension swap as I choose between Coilovers and Airbags. I have all the Beebani components, just need to decide which direction to go. I'd love to build a race-prep auto-cross/road racing variant of the D21. That's doable, but out here in West Texas, there aren't any tracks, so I can't really get too excited about corner carving. Anyways, as I mentioned on the Honda Rebel thread, just picked up a new Nissan Hardbody, and I'll be starting a thread on that one probably next week! ~Peter
  11. Thanks for the kind words. Haven't had a chance since December 20th to get back on this project. Too many trips and other obligations. I'm hoping to jump back in here this coming week and get some parts finished and shipped off for coating, powder coating, chrome, and machining. Frame and wiring still are two big items on the to-do list. In other news, got a new truck! Another 1995 Nissan Hardbody, but this time a King Cab!! It's a 102k mile, 2 owner, rust free and unmolested time capsule of a truck! I considered dropping it on airbags for a day or so. Then realized that it just rides so comfortably, and is such a reliable and lovely truck, that I can't cut it apart... So, it'll be my new daily as my white Hardbody continues on it's spiral into craziness... ? I'll probably start a new thread on the Red truck once I get some parts in the mail and start cleaning it up and getting it legally on the road. ? ~Peter
  12. 1st, I cannot take credit for the Tig Welds around the rear axle plate, those were done by Voodoo Vintage. I am merely a self-taught welder so maybe one day I can achieve that skill, but for now I'll settle for strength first, and aesthetics to follow. Regarding wheels, the front is like a 3.00x18 (90/90x18) and the rear is a super narrow 130/90-15... makes it nearly impossible to find vintage looking rubber, but I'm gathering some intel towards that end. ~Peter
  13. Good point, the main reason is clearance for dropping the oil. The plug is on the left bottom of the engine casing, so it I had exhaust running there, you'd need to drop the exhaust before changing oil to avoid spills. Also, almost all Frisco-Style choppers used Triumph or Harley drivetrains which almost always run pipes out one side or the other (usually the right side). It's part style, part function. ? ~Peter
  14. Mid-month update: Started on the exhaust pipes. Considered using portions of the original piping, but I soon discovered a sneaky little secret Honda employed on these exhaust pipes: Inside these 1 3/8" pipes, is the actual 7/8" exhaust tube! This was more than likely done for both noise and heat insulation. However, it means that every single Honda Rebel you see out there, even with custom mufflers or dumps, are still ONLY running the 7/8" pipes! So on this bike, I decided to build true 1 3/8" exhaust pipes. Started off by mocking up the downpipes. I wanted them to angle in towards each other to add to this bike's narrow silhouette. All welding here is Tig Welding with 1/16" Silicone Bronze filler rod. Welding Mandrel Bent 1 3/8" Mild Steel tubing. At first I was going to try and loop the exhaust up and have the exhaust exit out the upper rear of the bike, but the bends started looking to awkward and made the right side of the bike look lopsided compared to the left side. So this ^ got abandoned. Instead, I'm doing this ^ Then it was time to pull both header pipes off and seam weld and grind smooth all the welds. Exhaust is getting shipped out this week to Jet Hot Coatings for their Polished Heat Coating. As durable as chrome, more heat insulating, and far cheaper than sending these to the chromer! Let's see, what else happened... Oh yeah, the dual carbs are a no go. The clutch cable has to fit in the same area where the throttle cables needed to be, this problem was never mentioned in any Rebel dual carb build I've seen. In this photo ^ the clutch bracket isn't even bolted down, simply no room for it. Yeah, I could make or modify this clutch bracket, but after taking a closer look at the build quality on these carbs, and looking at some cfm ratings and fuel estimates, I think I stick with a single carb on this one. I'll find a way to make it look cool and vintage. This means as well that start-up and tuning should be far easier once this bike is done. I got the tail lights mounted as well: In other news, I decided to remove the front fender, since almost all Frisco-Style choppers only run a rear fender, I'll follow that trend. This means I'll be ready to start bodywork and testing out paint methods and layouts on the Tank and the rear Fender starting next month. In the meantime, I have 3 business trips planned over the next 30 days, so not a lot of progress will be made on this. But starting late January, I'll be back working on this bike as well as on getting the S10 Blazer build wrapped up so I can daily-drive that while I'm doing a full suspension swap/upgrade on the Hardbody! It's going to be a busy Spring! ~Peter
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