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Everything posted by petercscherer

  1. This project got postponed while I do a suspension swap on the White 1995 Hardbody. Thread can be found here: https://ratsun.net/topic/69795-1995-nissan-hardbody-2wd-build/page/2/ I should be back on the Rebel in Mid May. Planning for a July completion. 😉 ~Peter
  2. I used to run Fram on my 240Z years ago, but saw a similar video explaining their flaws. I soon after switched to K&N or Wix filters on all my vehicles. I don't mind paying extra for the K&N simply for the convenience of the welded nut on the end! Makes removal such a breeze! ~Peter
  3. Next up was exhaust, since I'm ultimately going to have to sneak it around the axle and out the back again. I decided to go with a performance based exhaust system, so I ordered a Pacesetter Header and quickly realized that they aren't totally truthful in their advertising. I'll explain: Pacesetter claims that for the Nissan KA24E 2wd Header, it has 1.5" Primaries and a 2.5" Collector. But what they actually mean is that where the 4 pipes meet is 2.5", but it immediately is reduced to 2.25" at the ball-socket, and further reduced to the factory 2.00" OD of the factory exhaust pipe. Here's a diagram I whipped together in Windows Paint, excuse the quality. So in order to do a 2.5" exhaust system, I had to modify the header. Basically chopping it right at where the pipes collect and begin to taper. And I welded a 2.5" Steel V-Band clamp on. Let me take an aside and explain my decision for 2.5" diameter. I realize that this engine, in very similar tune, also came on the 240SX, and those guys have done a lot of modification and testing over the years of exhaust sizes and systems. From my research online, the common accepted belief is: 2.5" exhaust for N/A, 3.0" for Turbo. So based off of that info, and the fact that mufflers, clamps, and tubing is VERY easy to find in 2.5" diameter, I took the plunge. The header arrived in basic Pacesetter shipping black paint. I know it'll burn off immediately so I totally media-blasted and painted the header with Eastwood Hi-Temp Manifold Grey. Note at this point, I have already deleted the AIV port and the EGR inlet. They'll not be used on this build from here on out. Oh, here's a pic of the inside of the collector. It's a little turbulent in my opinion, but should still breath just fine for a stockish motor. 😉 Completed Header: Then it was time to mock it up in the truck and begin the front half of the exhaust: It's going to have V Band Clamps at about 3' intervals so the whole system can be removed if needed and also so I can install additional drone-resonators or even change mufflers if needed. The whole system will be Hi-Temp Painted inside and out for good heat insulation and a long-lasting finish. I'll be finishing the rest of the exhaust once the bed is back on temporarily and get the new Fuel Tank mocked-up. Here's the new 16gal Tanks Inc fuel tank I picked up. I'll be mounting it behind the axle and should get it mocked up by the end of this week. Really excited to try and finish the back half of this truck and tackling the front suspension soon! ~Peter
  4. Fabrication time! New QA1 Coilovers! Here's the part numbers: Shit, just realized I didn't take individual pics of each component getting tacked in place. I'll try and get some when I pull it apart to fully weld everything. So here's what I'm left with now: It all went together very well. Couple of small Hardbody-specific tweaks that I worked with Jason (Beebani) to correct, but it looks good to me and checks out as totally square! Ride height as you see it there is as low as it will ever be. I'll be cranking the coilovers up once the bed and fuel tank get mounted. But I wanted to set it up at the lower limit to ensure optimum travel.
  5. These next few posts are my progress chronologically. So here's the plan. On May 3rd in San Antonio, is the annual Nismo Fiesta. I've always wanted to go, but haven't had the time or vehicle in recent years. So a few weeks ago, I decided to bite the bullet and lay down the gauntlet. This year, I'm going! And I'm taking the white hardbody, with full coilover suspension, new interior, and full custom exhaust! So, step one was to push the Rebel project to the side, clean the fab area, and pull the truck in: I then took studious notes of wheelbase, ride height at various points, and other dimensions: Then the teardown began: ^ At this point I boxed the frame with 1/8" plate at the points where the new crossmembers would be mounting. A little extra strength never hurt anyone! Then I pulled the rear end and got it degreased and promptly chopped everything off except for the vent cap! And then fully cleaned and prepped the frame for the new suspension mock-up:
  6. Alrighty, here's a smallish update. My first attempt at choosing a color for this bike was kind of lame. My brain pulled me back to a similar shade of blue as the Honda XL70 Bobber. Pretty shade, but I can't stand repetition... So, back to the swatches. I tend to like House Of Kolor paint, and that's where I stumbled across this custom blend: House of Kolor Bourbon! It's a blend of Kosamene Copper Pearl and Galaxy Grey. I've NEVER seen it on a bike or car, and it just POPS in the sunlight. This paint changes from Copper, to Root Reer, to Black, and almost to a Bronze, depending on the angle. And that spray out is with only a single coat of clear, imagine this paint buried under 7+ coats! ? In other news, today I sorted out one of the glaring issues on the bike: Where to mount the ignition switch. I didn't want to have it exposed on the frame rail, with wires poking out for people to see, and didn't want to have the keys hanging off the side of the Oil Tank or in the way of the rider's body... So in the shower last night it hit me! Doesn't a Faux Oil Tank need a Faux Oil Filler? A little bit of 2" exhaust tubing, some 1/8 plate cut into a circle with a hole in the middle, and some tig time: I'm really happy with this little detail. It's going to be one of those minuscule things I can point to at the end and show off what a little ingenuity and patience can achieve! I think tomorrow I'll be messing around with the drive-chain alignment, the rear brake system and maybe the wire pass throughs on the frame. Still relatively on schedule, I'm tentatively setting a deadline of April 30th on this bike, and after that: This sucker gets brought back into the shop! WOOHOO! ~Peter
  7. This project is on the list to be revitalized this year. I need to wrap up my Honda Rebel Chopper, and then this truck is getting back into the shop. However, the build plan has changed. A lot. I'll leave you with that teaser for now. ? -Peter
  8. No changes to the truck since my last post. Still driving it every day, even in the snow! ? It's on the schedule for an interior upgrade later this spring. I'm holding off on the suspension swap as I choose between Coilovers and Airbags. I have all the Beebani components, just need to decide which direction to go. I'd love to build a race-prep auto-cross/road racing variant of the D21. That's doable, but out here in West Texas, there aren't any tracks, so I can't really get too excited about corner carving. Anyways, as I mentioned on the Honda Rebel thread, just picked up a new Nissan Hardbody, and I'll be starting a thread on that one probably next week! ~Peter
  9. Thanks for the kind words. Haven't had a chance since December 20th to get back on this project. Too many trips and other obligations. I'm hoping to jump back in here this coming week and get some parts finished and shipped off for coating, powder coating, chrome, and machining. Frame and wiring still are two big items on the to-do list. In other news, got a new truck! Another 1995 Nissan Hardbody, but this time a King Cab!! It's a 102k mile, 2 owner, rust free and unmolested time capsule of a truck! I considered dropping it on airbags for a day or so. Then realized that it just rides so comfortably, and is such a reliable and lovely truck, that I can't cut it apart... So, it'll be my new daily as my white Hardbody continues on it's spiral into craziness... ? I'll probably start a new thread on the Red truck once I get some parts in the mail and start cleaning it up and getting it legally on the road. ? ~Peter
  10. 1st, I cannot take credit for the Tig Welds around the rear axle plate, those were done by Voodoo Vintage. I am merely a self-taught welder so maybe one day I can achieve that skill, but for now I'll settle for strength first, and aesthetics to follow. Regarding wheels, the front is like a 3.00x18 (90/90x18) and the rear is a super narrow 130/90-15... makes it nearly impossible to find vintage looking rubber, but I'm gathering some intel towards that end. ~Peter
  11. Good point, the main reason is clearance for dropping the oil. The plug is on the left bottom of the engine casing, so it I had exhaust running there, you'd need to drop the exhaust before changing oil to avoid spills. Also, almost all Frisco-Style choppers used Triumph or Harley drivetrains which almost always run pipes out one side or the other (usually the right side). It's part style, part function. ? ~Peter
  12. Mid-month update: Started on the exhaust pipes. Considered using portions of the original piping, but I soon discovered a sneaky little secret Honda employed on these exhaust pipes: Inside these 1 3/8" pipes, is the actual 7/8" exhaust tube! This was more than likely done for both noise and heat insulation. However, it means that every single Honda Rebel you see out there, even with custom mufflers or dumps, are still ONLY running the 7/8" pipes! So on this bike, I decided to build true 1 3/8" exhaust pipes. Started off by mocking up the downpipes. I wanted them to angle in towards each other to add to this bike's narrow silhouette. All welding here is Tig Welding with 1/16" Silicone Bronze filler rod. Welding Mandrel Bent 1 3/8" Mild Steel tubing. At first I was going to try and loop the exhaust up and have the exhaust exit out the upper rear of the bike, but the bends started looking to awkward and made the right side of the bike look lopsided compared to the left side. So this ^ got abandoned. Instead, I'm doing this ^ Then it was time to pull both header pipes off and seam weld and grind smooth all the welds. Exhaust is getting shipped out this week to Jet Hot Coatings for their Polished Heat Coating. As durable as chrome, more heat insulating, and far cheaper than sending these to the chromer! Let's see, what else happened... Oh yeah, the dual carbs are a no go. The clutch cable has to fit in the same area where the throttle cables needed to be, this problem was never mentioned in any Rebel dual carb build I've seen. In this photo ^ the clutch bracket isn't even bolted down, simply no room for it. Yeah, I could make or modify this clutch bracket, but after taking a closer look at the build quality on these carbs, and looking at some cfm ratings and fuel estimates, I think I stick with a single carb on this one. I'll find a way to make it look cool and vintage. This means as well that start-up and tuning should be far easier once this bike is done. I got the tail lights mounted as well: In other news, I decided to remove the front fender, since almost all Frisco-Style choppers only run a rear fender, I'll follow that trend. This means I'll be ready to start bodywork and testing out paint methods and layouts on the Tank and the rear Fender starting next month. In the meantime, I have 3 business trips planned over the next 30 days, so not a lot of progress will be made on this. But starting late January, I'll be back working on this bike as well as on getting the S10 Blazer build wrapped up so I can daily-drive that while I'm doing a full suspension swap/upgrade on the Hardbody! It's going to be a busy Spring! ~Peter
  13. Alright, you guys get an update! This will be in chronological order over the past week. Got the Mini Frisco-Style Tank mocked up, and started playing around with seat placement as well. Upgrading from the stock single carb to dual carbs! This dual carb set up is an aftermarket piece but seems to be equal to or better than the OEM carburetor. It uses the same style throttle cables and choke cable as stock, and still retains a single fuel inlet, so it should be straightforward to get running when the time comes. The rear fender was a chore to get right, started out with a LowBrow Customs Manta Ray 4 3/4" rear fender, but the arc was for 16" and larger rear tires, so I first made equidistant pie cuts, and re-arced it to match the tire. Taped to the tire in these pics is 5/8" heater hose, this creates a nice gap for tire clearance all the way around the fender. Tack welded the pie cuts, and then carefully seam welded them avoiding warping of course. Then ground smooth (ish) this will all get body-worked down the road. Grabbed some of LowBrow Customs fender mounting tabs, and after playing around with getting the fender square and centered, got them fully welded in. Great thing about this particular aftermarket rear fender is that it's made from 14 gauge steel! Meaning that two mounts in the front are more than enough to hold it steady and means that no rear mount is necessary! I really hate sissy-bars so this is good news! TC Bros Choppers sells this sweet fake oil tank with removable end caps for hiding wiring connections and other unsightly hardware. Grabbed some quick tabs from the bin and welded it in tight under the seat base. Next I got the Frisco Tank mounts welded into the neck of the bike. Results in a super low profile fitment to the tank. It's a little wobbly, but that's the way these bikes are meant to be I guess! Also got the front seat mount fully welded as seen in the pic above. I then threw everything together to get a better idea of the rolling bike. Rider comfort is actually really good, I'm 5'4", so for me this is a perfect size chopper. As you can see, I also got a battery mount figured out, it adjustable and the battery can be removed without taking the "oil tank" off. Next step is probably going to be re-designing the wiring harness, figuring out a rear brake pedal arrangement, brake light and license plate mounts and EXHAUST! Boy, I can't wait to make a custom set of pipes for this; my plans for that will probably blow your minds! ? ~Peter
  14. Only other smaller bike you could chop would be a Shadow. V-Twin engine, relatively cheap to pick-up, only real downside is that no-one makes a hardtail kit for them, so it would be up to you to build a hardtail using one of the universal kits out there. Of course, now that I have a frame jig, making my own frames seems far easier. ? ~Peter
  15. There are advantages and disadvantages to the Rebel as a platform. My initial thoughts are that this will be an excellent size bike for anyone under the height of 5'7"; because, despite the stretch on this frame, it still results in a very short bike. That's great for storage, maneuverability, and compactness, but any big frame person will still look silly riding it. However, you could always do a super-stretch hardtail and get more leg room. Didn't you have a CB you were working on? They make Hardtail kits for those too! ~Peter
  16. It's been awhile since I posted any updates on this site, mostly been sharing my projects on Instagram lately, but I figured I'd post this project thread to keep y'all entertained! I've been wanting to build a full-size, road-legal, licensed and titled motorcycle for awhile, and finally stumbled onto the deal that lit the fire. Earlier this summer, a local Harley enthusiast listed a 1985 Honda Rebel 250 that he had taken on trade and didn't need. The price was a bargain, and the bike ran and drove, so it came home. Fast forward to Monday of this week, and I pulled it into the shop for the transformation. The bike has about 7k miles showing, and seems mechanically sound, but I'll be tearing into the motor later. For now, it was disassembly time! Frame was mounted into my Chop Source Frame Jig, and prepped for slicing. I'll be using a Voodoo Vintage Weld-On Hardtail for this build. This is custom fabricated in their shop and each one is built to order. This will be a 3" stretch and a 2.5" drop hardtail. Tack-welded in place. Engine test fitted and the new rear engine mounts welded in. Fully welded and gussetted, and down on the floor for the next stage in mock-up. Here's one of many inspirations for the direction on this build. End game plan is a fully custom bike, with wild paint, lots of chrome, attention to detail, and fully street legal. It'll be my side project for the winter, so I'll post batch updates when I have progress to show. Otherwise, you can follow me on Instagram, my username is: CaprockFabShop ~Peter
  17. I know Hardbodies 1987-1997 had corner eye-bolts and YES I have hauled a motorcycle in the bed strapped down with them. They're mounting through the double-walled corners and are VERY secure. Obviously, still triangulate and use common sense when tying down a load, but you should be fine! ~Peter
  18. Texas law is 25% on the front side windows and any level on the back-side and rear glass.
  19. Agreed with what Atom and Josh said, hypothetically you could swap over everything if you have enough fabrication skills, money, and dedication. The problem is that the 1200 is a really small car and very little will be straightforward about exchanging components with a 240sx. The reason you haven't read about many 1200/240sx combos is that the 1200 is a rare car, and thus parts for them are very hard to come by. If the goal is for a drift/race car, then you're probably on the right track by combining the 240sx suspension with the 1200 body, would have extensive body mods, but could be done.
  20. Yup! Runs and drives! Back on the road after 10 days in the shop. Drove it around most of the day yesterday. Today I got the hood on and changed out the side mouldings for new replacements. I'll get some more pics later this week. On the to do list still: Exhaust (tomorrow) Alignment Transmission shift adjustment Working Oil/Temp/Volt gauges (Summit Racing) Smaller front tires (These ones rub the inner fenders) Re-do Window tint Replace odds and ends under the hood (a lot of wiring and connection issues still) Interior freshening Otherwise, I'm pretty satisfied with the truck, definitely a big project still. Interior is rougher and rattles like a tin can. Suspension needs some fine tuning, as does the engine performance. But it'll be a fun project over the next few months. But, I have to take a break from personal projects and get back to some client's stuff. Have a gas pump restoration to finalize, and need to get a gameplan for remodeling the shop with more workstations! I'll probably start a thread about the shop upgrades, since I'm thinking a lot of members here might be in need of inspiration and/or ideas! ? ~Peter
  21. Video of before/after swapping the engine out. https://youtu.be/VeY40Kktw1o Started the engine up yesterday, waiting to break it in fully until my rear disc kit arrives tomorrow. Should have a significant update on Saturday with outside pics and vids. ~Peter
  22. Paint is a Maaco respray from a couple years ago, hasn't even been cut-polished since then. Regarding the headers, at the time, I was wanting to keep the exhuast stock, but ran into some clearance issues yesterday. I guess now I'm doing duals... MPG doesn't really matter too much, I'm used to <14mpg with older rigs... ~Peter
  23. Almost wrapped up the engine replacement, but I'll highlight it for you here: Before photo, tired old 171,000 mile 4.3l V6. Severe Rod Knock, opted to do a motor transplant, rather than rebuild this one. Removed old engine Back in the crate ready to go back as a core. Rebuilt V6 from ATK Engines, I purchased it through Jeg's. Installed all the original components back on it after cleaning and painting. Stabbed it back into the truck, now was time to install all the accessories. Almost there, still need to run new vacuum lines, radiator, etc... Should be doing start-up tomorrow evening! Also took a moment and installed the 3" Belltech Drop leafs and shocks in the rear: Yes! That's lowered 3" from stock... Might be needing more there. Definitely lowering the front another 2" this coming week with some Belltech Drop Coils. ~Peter
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