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Everything posted by petercscherer

  1. Sorry to hear about your change in plans, I can certainly relate that life gets in the way all the time. I'll try to carry on your vision. Already rolling along with my LS Swap into my 1995 Hardbody. Follow on Instagram @caprockfabshop ~Peter
  2. Okay, so I know it's been like 4 1/2 years since I started this, and other projects have come and go. But through it all this truck has been sitting in the corner giving me the stink-eye. I really feel bad that I let it sit this long and I have finally come to a solution to finish it. I've done some brainstorming with some fellow enthusiasts and here's the plan. Since my white 1995 Nissan D21 is getting turned into a complete race-truck with an engine swap in it's future, I'll be robbing the engine/trans, the wiring harness, gauges, plumbing etc... and swapping them into this 720. This way I g
  3. Yeah, I've used pathfinder fenders, hoods, grills, and bumpers on hardbodies before. Also interior parts interchange like seats, consoles, dashes, etc... A lot of the chassis parts will interchange, since both frames have a lot of the same mounting points and holes. Get 4x4 fenders to add 1" on each side. They're also available on ebay reproduction.
  4. Snag a set of s10 LS swap motor mounts, they're like $60-80 and will save you some fab time since they're almost perfect out of the box. Be prepared to slice and raise your tunnel for that stick trans, pretty sure it sits higher on the crankshaft plane than the 4l60e.
  5. Because he want's to be able to change gears to better freeway gears if necessary. I'm pretty sure the the V6 axle with LSD is only available in like 2 ratios.
  6. I couldn't either on my phone, but just looked here on my computer and they show up just fine. They're hosted off my google photos account, that may have something to do with it. ~Peter
  7. Close, they do actually come in handy for grabbing it and pulling it around. But they're primarily there to help me with lifting the table. I built it upside down taking advantage of the relatively level concrete, and then needed to flip it to get it right side up. That was a bit of an ordeal...
  8. Yeah, too many distractions on there. My plan of attack is to get the rebel finished over the next few months and then drag the 95 Hardbody back in and get back on that. Here's pics of the table. 4'x8' 5/16" mild steel (just the top weighs 408lbs!) All the tubing is 1/8" wall so its capable of supporting up to 3800lbs. Overall the table weighs 720lbs!!! Sits at 33" tall which is perfect for rolling a chair under it for tig welding. It'll be the workspace for the rebel so I can make a fixture to bolt the frame of the bike to the table at ride height and do better fabrication with
  9. And the shutdown hit. Had to prioritize as much paying work as possible and I'm just now getting to a point where I can get back to personal projects. I did just finish building a 4x8 welding table that this bike will fit on so I'm off the ground and able to do some more fixture welding of brackets and the rear assembly. Should have updates soon. ~Peter
  10. Build has been progressing slowly, but I am not going to be posting new updates on this forum. I've been regularly updating my instagram account: @caprockfabshop However with the recent global crisis, I'm forced to focus on my day job more and projects like this truck will take a distant back seat for the duration. Thanks for checking in. ~Peter
  11. Project had to be postponed, got sidelined first with my Hardbody Nissan build, and then life got wacky for me and I've been so busy with work and other commitments that both projects are stalled. I will finish them both this winter hopefully. My plan for spacers, is I've been using washers for mockup, and then I'll measure up what I need and have a buddy machine me a spacer out of round stock the same diameter as the OEM spacer. As for adjusters, I ordered up a set I believe that came on modern Honda 250cc dirt bikes, and I'm going to adapt them for tensioning. I tried to figure out a
  12. I agree with craZee, considering the 240z doesn't weigh much more than a MX5, 300whp is bordering on a handful to control. Also, being that the client's car is a Widebody, I'm guessing it has good sized tires on it to handle the power? You also will definitely want to do the WRX diff swap and possibly custom axle shafts too. I've toyed with a similar build, but I'm just not as fueled by the "need for speed" as I once was... ~Peter
  13. This project got postponed while I do a suspension swap on the White 1995 Hardbody. Thread can be found here: https://ratsun.net/topic/69795-1995-nissan-hardbody-2wd-build/page/2/ I should be back on the Rebel in Mid May. Planning for a July completion. 😉 ~Peter
  14. I used to run Fram on my 240Z years ago, but saw a similar video explaining their flaws. I soon after switched to K&N or Wix filters on all my vehicles. I don't mind paying extra for the K&N simply for the convenience of the welded nut on the end! Makes removal such a breeze! ~Peter
  15. Next up was exhaust, since I'm ultimately going to have to sneak it around the axle and out the back again. I decided to go with a performance based exhaust system, so I ordered a Pacesetter Header and quickly realized that they aren't totally truthful in their advertising. I'll explain: Pacesetter claims that for the Nissan KA24E 2wd Header, it has 1.5" Primaries and a 2.5" Collector. But what they actually mean is that where the 4 pipes meet is 2.5", but it immediately is reduced to 2.25" at the ball-socket, and further reduced to the factory 2.00" OD of the factory exhaust pipe
  16. Fabrication time! New QA1 Coilovers! Here's the part numbers: Shit, just realized I didn't take individual pics of each component getting tacked in place. I'll try and get some when I pull it apart to fully weld everything. So here's what I'm left with now: It all went together very well. Couple of small Hardbody-specific tweaks that I worked with Jason (Beebani) to correct, but it looks good to me and checks out as totally square! Ride height as you see it there is as low as it will ever be. I'll be c
  17. These next few posts are my progress chronologically. So here's the plan. On May 3rd in San Antonio, is the annual Nismo Fiesta. I've always wanted to go, but haven't had the time or vehicle in recent years. So a few weeks ago, I decided to bite the bullet and lay down the gauntlet. This year, I'm going! And I'm taking the white hardbody, with full coilover suspension, new interior, and full custom exhaust! So, step one was to push the Rebel project to the side, clean the fab area, and pull the truck in: I then took studious notes of wheelbase, ride height at variou
  18. Alrighty, here's a smallish update. My first attempt at choosing a color for this bike was kind of lame. My brain pulled me back to a similar shade of blue as the Honda XL70 Bobber. Pretty shade, but I can't stand repetition... So, back to the swatches. I tend to like House Of Kolor paint, and that's where I stumbled across this custom blend: House of Kolor Bourbon! It's a blend of Kosamene Copper Pearl and Galaxy Grey. I've NEVER seen it on a bike or car, and it just POPS in the sunlight. This paint changes from Copper, to Root Reer, to Black, and almos
  19. This project is on the list to be revitalized this year. I need to wrap up my Honda Rebel Chopper, and then this truck is getting back into the shop. However, the build plan has changed. A lot. I'll leave you with that teaser for now. ? -Peter
  20. No changes to the truck since my last post. Still driving it every day, even in the snow! ? It's on the schedule for an interior upgrade later this spring. I'm holding off on the suspension swap as I choose between Coilovers and Airbags. I have all the Beebani components, just need to decide which direction to go. I'd love to build a race-prep auto-cross/road racing variant of the D21. That's doable, but out here in West Texas, there aren't any tracks, so I can't really get too excited about corner carving. Anyways, as I mentioned on the Honda Rebel thread, just picked up a new Ni
  21. Thanks for the kind words. Haven't had a chance since December 20th to get back on this project. Too many trips and other obligations. I'm hoping to jump back in here this coming week and get some parts finished and shipped off for coating, powder coating, chrome, and machining. Frame and wiring still are two big items on the to-do list. In other news, got a new truck! Another 1995 Nissan Hardbody, but this time a King Cab!! It's a 102k mile, 2 owner, rust free and unmolested time capsule of a truck! I considered dropping it on airbags for a day or so. Then realized t
  22. 1st, I cannot take credit for the Tig Welds around the rear axle plate, those were done by Voodoo Vintage. I am merely a self-taught welder so maybe one day I can achieve that skill, but for now I'll settle for strength first, and aesthetics to follow. Regarding wheels, the front is like a 3.00x18 (90/90x18) and the rear is a super narrow 130/90-15... makes it nearly impossible to find vintage looking rubber, but I'm gathering some intel towards that end. ~Peter
  23. Good point, the main reason is clearance for dropping the oil. The plug is on the left bottom of the engine casing, so it I had exhaust running there, you'd need to drop the exhaust before changing oil to avoid spills. Also, almost all Frisco-Style choppers used Triumph or Harley drivetrains which almost always run pipes out one side or the other (usually the right side). It's part style, part function. ? ~Peter
  24. Mid-month update: Started on the exhaust pipes. Considered using portions of the original piping, but I soon discovered a sneaky little secret Honda employed on these exhaust pipes: Inside these 1 3/8" pipes, is the actual 7/8" exhaust tube! This was more than likely done for both noise and heat insulation. However, it means that every single Honda Rebel you see out there, even with custom mufflers or dumps, are still ONLY running the 7/8" pipes! So on this bike, I decided to build true 1 3/8" exhaust pipes. Started o
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