Fisch's 1959 Datsun 1000 project! Peeking in the oilpan!

[bonvo]

stop being a puss and hit it with all you got then shove a cheater pipe on one end and hang in the bitch it will come loose

[mklotz70]

Scott...when you have it under pressure, you might try taking a piece of bar, or a bit drift punch and a big hammer......hit the snout that sticks out from the front of the rim. You'll want to do it perpendicular to the angle of the snout. The idea behind it is to distort the snout when hit. Start with a mild hit and work up to a fairly aggressive whack. We're not looking to damage the shout. If you've seen guys pop tierods out of steering arms by whacking them with a hammer.....this is the same principle.

 

Don't forget the grease :)

[Charlie69]

Hey Fisch when you do het it apart be sure to put some never seize on it before reassembly

 

If you have an air hammer use it on the cone like Mike was saying while it is under pressure. Move around the entire cone area. Do this all the way around a couple times and then hit the puller a few more good whacks to besure it has good amount of pressur on it and do the air hammer cone thing again. Keep this up until it comes off or you destroy it from anger/frustration.

 

Oh by the way post up pictures of you entire rear end and also post measurements of Backing plate to backing plate and spring center to spring center. There is a couple of old MG's and a Triumph in one of the wrecking yards here might be a good fit.

[fisch]

Thanks guys, I hope to get back on it today.

 

What really has me worried is that the hub/drum on the other side has bad threads on the lug studs (probably because someone didn't know they were reverse threaded.) I tried the puller on that one briefly and it pulled the lug nut right off the stud. I have two more pairs of stud to try, but if it slips, what to do? Vicegrips on the stud, which will totally destroy the threads? Or since there is a little bite, would using some loctight do anything? I am guessing loc-tight won't hold up to the pressure generated by the puller.

[motavated]

So what this looks like the center bolt hold everything together? But a tire on her and jack it up highhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh with the center bolt loose. Then drop it as fast as you can! Well do that as a last resort.... Maybe even just use a wheel with no tire to really hit it hard....

 

This actually sounds very dangerous but That sucker has to come out... Just be careful!!!!!!!!

[motavated]

Or why not take off the diff and use a jack to take it off.... You would have to weld plates on the diff. Let me draw it...

[motavated]

also cant you remove the axles? cant you remove the "pumpkin" and remove the axels and just pull them off... That would be wayyyyyyyyy easier no? Replace the brakes, replace the studs, and see how they work... and just install the axels back!

 

I think this could be the easiest thing you can do.... Maybe...

[fisch]

AARGH!!! What you see here is that the bolt that attaches the right (facing the wheel) puller arm to the pulling platform has been yanked right through the damn drop forged arm-piece and the washer. That is some serious pressure, and no budge. I even heated it and hit the snout as suggested. I guess I have to un-do everything and use teh extra arm I have and try to pull again?

 

Look how bent that thing got! It is like it is mocking me! Even with all this gear on there the wheel spins like there is no friction at all. It is as if I am missing a magic bolt. And more frustrating because everything else on this car has come apart like it was only 3 years old. Easy as pie.

 

 

[fisch]

also cant you remove the axles? cant you remove the "pumpkin" and remove the axels and just pull them off... That would be wayyyyyyyyy easier no? Replace the brakes, replace the studs, and see how they work... and just install the axels back!

 

I think this could be the easiest thing you can do.... Maybe...

 

Sounds like a great idea Adam, but, looking at the drawing (parts 11-16), the bearing cover/retainer plate (that sandwiches the bearings) is inside the drum and is bolted to the axle flange from the inside using a cotter pin bolt by the looks of things. And there are no bolt heads on the backing plate at all, just stud heads. So I see no way to remove the axle w/o taking off the drum. Unless I am missing something?

 

I guess we can see why they changed this design!

 

And dude thanks for the drawing!!!

 

Did I mention AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARG!!!!!

[fisch]

Guys, will a hotter flame be better? The Map gas torches don't get even close to getting this thing cherry. But I don't have an oxy torch, or any one to borrow one from, so I'd have to buy it. Will it make the difference?

[matwood]

hell yes it will. That thing needs to be HOT to actually expand the metal. MAP gas wont get it there, definitely try an Oxy torch man.

 

Keep it up,

 

This thing's gonna be SIIICKK. :)

[nukeday]

Hate to ask the obvious, but have you used any sort of penetrating oil on this? Heat is always a last resort, IMO. PB Blaster sprayed a couple of times a day for a few days does amazing things. It looks like (from the drawing) you could spray both the front and back. Into the where the hub nut is located, and at the axle flange in back. If you intend on using heat, you can use liquid dish soap as a penetrating lube too, it won't burst into flames.

 

Here's a link to MG drum removal, similar to but not exactly what you've got. In paragraph B there is mention of two flathead retaining screws. I don't see anything like that in these photos, but maybe there are 'magic bolts' still in place?

[kidatari]

Fisch, got a recommendation for you.

 

1. Engage the puller on the hub, and get some good forces going.

2. Heat the stuck part (snout) with a MAP/Propane torch, get it good and hot

3. Melt wax (beeswax, candlewax) into the area where the 2 pieces fit together, you're trying to get the wax to flow into the area.

4. Hit it with a hammer/punch.

 

Beeswax is amazing in these instances, I've had it loosen 40-year old Tie Rod Ends with one hammer whack.

 

I've been in the same situation before, keep in there! I've also used an air hammer with a punch on the end to try and rattle things loose with varying success. Keep on it, you'll beat that sucker.

[motavated]

No wonder it won the Australia rally in 1958. They are tuff!!!! Next time use triple nuts/washers so it wont f'd the threads ...

[denveratsun]

Hey....I have been in the same spot Fisch! Youve got to take a walk with your sweety....go throw the frisbee for your dog or your kids or something. Take a breather and something will come to your mind like a light switch getting turned on.

 

You have gotten some very good counsel here. Let it soak in like the PB Blaster :P

 

I'm sorry your in this spot bro. Sucks super bad! <_<

 

It will work out.

[fisch]

Fisch, got a recommendation for you.

 

1. Engage the puller on the hub, and get some good forces going.

2. Heat the stuck part (snout) with a MAP/Propane torch, get it good and hot

3. Melt wax (beeswax, candlewax) into the area where the 2 pieces fit together, you're trying to get the wax to flow into the area.

4. Hit it with a hammer/punch.

 

Beeswax is amazing in these instances, I've had it loosen 40-year old Tie Rod Ends with one hammer whack.

 

I've been in the same situation before, keep in there! I've also used an air hammer with a punch on the end to try and rattle things loose with varying success. Keep on it, you'll beat that sucker.

 

 

Thanks man! Actually my uncle told me about the wax trick and I tried that too! I had a simple parafin wax candle though, not bees. Had a nice little puddle of wax under the drum when I was done. Alas still no budging. That was before I had this puller so maybe I should try it again and with beeswax this time!

 

-Also there is a little rectangular key fitted in matching slots between the hub and the spindle. But the odd thing is the key is not stuck cause I have tapped it with a punch and it moved. So there isn't a lot of rust in there. You can't really get the key out because there is nothing to grab on to. It is really just there to stop the hub from spinning on the spindle. But if I did get the key out, I could then get a bit of wax or penetrating oil back in there further.

 

-Also there is a little hole on the face of the drum. Probably 3/16 wide. It is not threaded (Like you might find on a modern drum) and there is nothing behind it all the way to the backing plate so I don't know why it is there? The shop manual mentions nothing about it.

 

Todd, I actually saw that site too! I will give it a re-read. I've probably put 3 or four applications of PB Blaster on it over the last three weeks. Someone once told me Nut Buster is even better for such things, but figured it was pretty much the same as PB. I guess I could try it though!

 

Here is a pic of the key and the hole.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Hang in there Scott you WILL win ! This is just a test of your patience & if you keep your kool it'll happen.

[fisch]

Hang in there Scott you WILL win ! This is just a test of your patience & if you keep your kool it'll happen.

 

The Battle continues! Reassembled everything, heated the heck out of the drum, started hitting the hell out of the puller. and BAM!!!!!! Scared the crap out of me! Unfortunately it was just one of the nuts popping off the puller arm. Sheared the threads off! That thing was like a bullet!!! Thank god I wasn't in front of it.

 

Now I gotta find another grade 8 bolt. So I just wasted 20 min of MAP gas. :P

 

Also learned that those puller arms that attach to the lug studs were on wrong on my first attempt. The one end has the conical taper for a lug nut. That is why it pulled the bolt through the hole. Live and learn.

 

Everything held together much better this time. Less bending, right up until the BAM! My heart is still beating fast!

[exit64]

Scott,

Keep at it with the parafin and heat. It took me eight cycles of wax and heat to get a stuck stud out one time on a head. It is a slow process but it does work. MAP gas might be a little too cool for this. get your hands on acetalene if you can.

[motavated]

Told yah man. Put as most nuts you can on them bolts...

[moparvwfreak]

man, i feel your pain. when i got my 78 brakes done, i knew i had a bad wheel cyl in the left rear. i had the drum off 2 days earlier but they ended up having to use the blue tip wrench to get the drum off. sometimes the car doesn't want to give anything up. maybe its hiding something that it doesn't want you to see.

[Charlie69]

Quote Fisch, “Thanks guys, I think I am just being a puss about it. Scared I will break those precious drums! I have hammered the hell out of the puller, but I know it can go further.”

 

 

Well Fisch I guess this prooves your are not being a puss about it. Damn Fisch I bet you could destroy an anvil!!! :lol:

[motavated]

Did you remove the other side? Damn.... That sucks...

[bonvo]

fisch man i understand the want to keep it original but after all that i would pull the axle and take it to a machine shop the have to have a press there strong enough to get it to pop loose

[Charlie69]

If you run out of stud threads weld the nuts to the studs they are trash anyway. I think you are going to have to put an oxy acetilene torch with a big rosebud tip on it and heat that hub up till it pots loose. I beleive that you can rent a good torch setup fairly reasonable.

 

You will win Fisch!!