Fisch's 1959 Datsun 1000 project! Peeking in the oilpan!

[mklotz70]

I understand...I may do the same thing on the Fairlane :)

 

I use a 15/16" m/c, but you could get away with a 7/8"

[scifiguy30]

If you pay $100 to have your master cylinder re-sleeved and then decide to upgrade later, I'll buy your re-sleeved master cylinder for $100. Where did you get the shop manual pics? Does someone have a shop manual for the 59 model year?

[fisch]

If you pay $100 to have your master cylinder re-sleeved and then decide to upgrade later, I'll buy your re-sleeved master cylinder for $100. Where did you get the shop manual pics? Does someone have a shop manual for the 59 model year?

 

I will totally keep that offer in mind! Thanks!

 

And YES we have a original shop manual for our 59's! Jerry actually, unbelievably found one and scanned it and is kind enough to share it! And the generosity goes on because Mike Klotz is going to put it on www.olddatsuns.com for everyone!

 

I also plan to scan my original spare parts manual.

[Charlie69]

Keep at it Fisch! Little by Little and before you know it it will be time to take the family for a ride.

[fisch]

Been super busy and haven't been able to spend much time on the forum! (Coming from a guy who usually checks in every half hour!)

 

Not much to report. But I did get the fuel tank removed! It is in great shape! But has some very old gas in it that has almost returned to the crude oil it once was!!!

 

The back brakes are still being a total PITA!!! I even tried heating it up with two MAP torches at the same time, using a home made puller and a BFH! Stripped out my home made hub puller too. Nada!

 

BUT I scored this mother on ebay and it is on the way. Muah-ha-ha... :devil: Vintage drop-forged, springfield hub puller with an 8" bolt circle span. If this won't do the trick, I don't know what will!!!

 

[mklotz70]

I guess if you break the rear end, it will give you an excuse to put a different one in :)

[fisch]

You're scaring me Mike! But alas, I see no other recourse than the keep trying! I figure if anything is going to brake it will be the lug studs. But it will be funny (not) if I finally get it apart and the rears were fine to begin with!

 

I would almost wonder if these have EVER been off, but at some point I know the hubs were switched because the driver hub has reverse threaded lugs, and the passenger side has standard. Pretty sure that is opposite!

[mklotz70]

I'd stand to the side as you're hammering on that. For the amount of load that will generate, when it pops, it may move more than you think. Hopefully, it will simply pop lose. The puller looks really rigid. The more rigid it is, the less the whole assembly will jump when it lets loose. It may just walk it right off :)

 

Oh....I'd put a piece of plywood under the drum so that if it does pop off, it doesn't take a chip out of your floor or damage the drum.

[Charlie69]

Just curious fisch can you get new drums for your 59?

[fisch]

Mike I am thinking I will keep the spindle nut loosely threaded on there to catch it if it takes off! Sound like a good idea?

 

 

Just curious fisch can you get new drums for your 59?

 

 

I wish Charlie! From what I can tell so far these are unique to the '59. The hub and the drum are all one piece. IDK maybe there is something british, like an austin a40 that could fit, but would have to be redrilled for 6-lug.

 

It is looking like this might be an early H190 diff though. So I could put something from like a 521 under there, but would guess it will be a bit wider. A roadster rear could be cool too, except for the 4-lug thing. I think a 320 would be ideal! (But I'd probably have to have one shipped!) Purple is running one from a Ford Courier in his i think.

 

We'll cross that bridge if we come to it!!

[Charlie69]

I am pulling my 520 rear end so if you want it it is yours. I am not sure as to how to get it to you.

[fisch]

I am pulling my 520 rear end so if you want it it is yours. I am not sure as to how to get it to you.

 

 

Dude you rock! If it comes to that, I could use the same guy who shipped me the '59 and pay him to swing by and get it! What are you replacing it with?

[mklotz70]

Ya....that sounds like a good idea Scott :)

 

You should check the width of your diff....I can measure the 320 spare I have.

[Charlie69]

I am putting a 1980 720 rear end in. It will give me 3.889 gears so I can cruise on the hiway. It is 1" wider than the 520 center tread width.

 

Just let me know if you want it.

 

I will measure it tomorrow.

 

Hey Fisch check out this 510 J18 Crate motor on ebay.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Datsun-510_W0QQitemZ270556987218QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3efe73ff52#v4-38

[Daddyoethan]

Fisch,

 

I sent a private e-mail to your website address. I have '59 221 parts that you may be able to use. I am using the 221 to donate parts for the VP221 van. I will have an extra rear end, and body panels if you want to play with your 1000.

 

Another Idea: I used a Suzuki Samurai rear diff on my mother's Nash Metro (about 52" wide from memory). This diff's gear carrier is very offset: one long side, one short side. I took an extra short side and cut the long side down to match.... got 50.75" out of it if memory serves. No resplining axles, all stock brakes with leaf spring mounts!!

 

I have pix, give me a week or so.

 

Curtis in Sac.

[Daddyoethan]

Don't use anything mechanical from an Austin A40!! Those diffs are CR@P!! Bearings and axle design is pre-war (pick one)!!! The Austin A40 is about 5" wider than the Nash/Austin Metropolitan, even though they are based on the same platform.

 

 

 

 

 

I wish Charlie! From what I can tell so far these are unique to the '59. The hub and the drum are all one piece. IDK maybe there is something british, like an austin a40 that could fit, but would have to be redrilled for 6-lug.

 

It is looking like this might be an early H190 diff though. So I could put something from like a 521 under there, but would guess it will be a bit wider. A roadster rear could be cool too, except for the 4-lug thing. I think a 320 would be ideal! (But I'd probably have to have one shipped!) Purple is running one from a Ford Courier in his i think.

 

We'll cross that bridge if we come to it!!

[datsun8]

Hey Fisch, been watchin' this thread for a while. You're hella inspirational, dude. The art and the project. my 2 cents, for what it's worth. Keep up the good work man!

[fisch]

Dudes I am not getting notifications on this thread for some reason? Bummer! But thanks for checking in with it!

 

Thanks a lot Datsun8! It is driving me crazy, weather is perfect for wrenching on it, and I'd love to draw another Datto, but my deadlines for other gigs have me balls to the wall till almost July. I gotta find a day here and there to do more!

 

Daddyoethan- great to know about the parts! I wish you lived closer! I was talking to Purple last night and mentioned you had written about a possible hood and I think he could use one for his '59. I had wondered about a Sami rearend!

 

So I imagine once it is cut down you'd have to reweld the leaf spring mount to the tube as well as the flange? And how did you shorten the axle on the shortened side? The main hold up would be the lack of 6-lug, but I could always have the sami hubs and drums redrilled.

 

 

Update:

So I used that big ass mother of a hub puller I bought to try to get those one piece rear drum/hubs off, and still nothing. Heated them up with two MAP torches as well as beating it with the BFH, all while applying pressure, still are not budging. At this point I see no choice but to keep going till something brakes or comes off. Gonna try to wedge a prybar between the drum and the backingplate and pry while using the puller. (Knowing Dadyoethan has a spare rear makes me feel a bit braver about it. Shipping would be a lot across the country, but good to know there is still a stock option out there.)

[mklotz70]

I think I'd opt for more pressure on the puller than a prybar on the backing plate. The backing plate does not offer much to pry against....guaranteed you will bend the dickens out of it. Put some wheel bearing grease on the threads of the main puller bolt so that it will spin easier when you have to really hammer on it. That thing should generate enough force to rip the dang lug bolts out of there! :) Did I mention standing off to the side? :)

[bonvo]

fisch man after you hammer that puller as tight as you can go buy a cheater pipe that the end will fit in and get some leverage on that bitch im talking aboy a 6 foot cheater pipe here that shit will come loose

[fisch]

Thanks guys, I think I am just being a puss about it. Scared I will break those precious drums! I have hammered the hell out of the puller, but I know it can go further.

 

Mike the spindle nut loosely threaded on there will catch it right? (I have about 1/4" before it would make contact at the moment.) Course of the lugs pop they will be like bullets!!!!!

[mklotz70]

Actually, I was going to recommend that you put the spindle nut on until it's flush with the end of the axle so that the puller doesn't damage the end of the axle.

 

So...do a video of it.....you might want to start with "Being of sound mind........" LOL!!! :)

[motavated]

You know what man? You never ever posted a pic of what your doing... Post a pic so I can get me some ideas...

[bonvo]

You know what man? You never ever posted a pic of what your doing... Post a pic so I can get me some ideas...

x2

[fisch]

Will do dudes! Here we go. (For those just tuning in, remember these drums and hubs are one piece and are press fit on the spindle!) I've been hammering on it pretty hard but think it will go even more. I added that bit of angle iron to give it something meaty to pull against on that side. And again I am hitting it with the BFH and heating it.