nis720 Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 This can't be good. :blink: Anyone want to take guess? Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 This can't be good. :blink: Anyone want to take guess? Guessing the rear end is shot. I noticed you was talking about a Ford 9" earlier. what about a Nissan H-233, that is my target for my 720. Talk to the King Rat on it, you can get it with LSD off of certain Pathfinders and get 4 link as well. But it will bump your overall width out by about an inch tho. And I love the dash!! BTW, where did you get the front grill? Part#? Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 Guessing the rear end is shot. I noticed you was talking about a Ford 9" earlier. what about a Nissan H-233, that is my target for my 720. Talk to the King Rat on it, you can get it with LSD off of certain Pathfinders and get 4 link as well. But it will bump your overall width out by about an inch tho. And I love the dash!! BTW, where did you get the front grill? Part#? I'm considering a Ford 8.8 shortened... but I also want to back-half the truck and narrow the frame with 4 link coil over setup. Not enough $$$ to do all that now. The Nissan rear end has tappered axles and cannot be shortened and resplined. The Grill was made by Trenz, but they no longer make them as far as I know (I'm trying to get another one). Here's the aftermath. Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted July 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 Ok axle designation is HF37 (37 tooth ring/10 tooth drive pinion) or 3.70. It's a H190 ring gear which is in a couple of Datsun/Nissans. Apparently there's H190, H190A and H190B designation. Currently looking for a stock replacement so I can drive it. Looking for options that will drop into the stock axle for now? Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 Wow. how'd you do that??? :blink: hopefully, that turbo puts out so much power, the rear can't take it ! :) 1 Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 FUUUUUUUUU! That is vicious man!!!! That is a fucen monster! Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 You can always weld the spider gears up for now just to drive it. Plus you'll have fun doing burn outs with 100% lock!! Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted July 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Ok... went to the JY and found a HF39 out of a Automatic 720 and only pulled the third member only. I will have my old one rebuilt as a spare. Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 can't wait cant wait!! Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 If that was my truck id look into the toyota 4x4 rear diff everything is avaliable for those and their still lightweight with a drop out 3rd member. 8.8 are not the best axle. But its your truck. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Wow. how'd you do that??? :blink: hopefully, that turbo puts out so much power, the rear can't take it ! :) The H-190 is good for 280-300 ft lb of torque. What no open rear end will take (for long) is one tire fires or one wheel smoky burn outs. The one tire that is locked or moving the slowest holds that side gear motionless or nearly so, forcing the two spider gears to rotate around it with the other side gear. Normally the gears are motionless in relation to each other in straight ahead driving and only barely turning on corners and drive force is directed equally to two axles. With one wheel spinning these side and spider gears are spinning madly and transmitting power at the same time. The side gear or pinion mate thrust washers can seize or grind away altering the gear lash and it's all over. Usually an LSD will cure this unrestrained one wheel spin and apply equal drive force to both wheels under heavy load. The H-233 is slightly larger than the Ford 9" and comes in LSD on the VG30 powered D-21 (Hardbody) and the WD-21 (Pathfinder). I've seen 4.625 and 4.375 ratios for them in LSD capability but only on the 4X4. The Pathfinder comes only in coil spring and 5 link. The D-21 has leaf and should bolt to the 720. I don't know why no one ever mentions this but there is a factory H-190 LSD diff available on the 2wd 4 cyl. Hardbody. It comes with 3.70, 3.889 and later even 3.545 ratios. I don't know the code that designates that it has LSD but there will be a bright orange 'LSD' or 'Use LSD Oil' sticker under the dirt on the middle rear of the differential 'bum'. . Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Thanks Mike... not sure if the H-190 LSD you're talking about is for Canadian models... but I haven't come across any. I will definetely keep my eyes peeled for one. In my case it was those rolling burn outs in 2nd and 3rd gear.... it's effortless, just give it gas and the tire lights up. Main reason for considering the Ford 8.8 rear end is to go 5 lug. I did some measuring and test fitting today. Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 The Grill was made by Trenz, but they no longer make them as far as I know (I'm trying to get another one). If you find two, let me know! And good luck on the rear end! Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted August 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Past few weeks I've been fixing shit on the truck... seems that everytime I drive it, there's something else to fix. 3 weeks ago the ebay gasket went out. So I reused the old one (holding good so far) Last week on my way back from the Fontana Nissan meet the lifters decided to tick all the damn time. So I finally fixed that too. What else is next? Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 nice, are you converting to solid lifters? are you using the paper like gaskets for the manifold? Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 you need to send a pic of your truck to speed hunters Quote Link to comment
datrod Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 Man lot's of ELBOW grease on that build. :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted August 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2010 nice, are you converting to solid lifters? are you using the paper like gaskets for the manifold? Eventually, yes. But when I do that I'll be installing stiffer Pioneer valve springs (I already have them), turbo cam and port and polishing the head. Not cheap. :( The gasket was that thicker ebay gasket. The one I had before was the stamped turbonetics one I got from summit. you need to send a pic of your truck to speed hunters How do I go about doing that? Man lot's of ELBOW grease on that build. :rolleyes: As long as I still have the stamina to work on the truck I'm good. :D Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted August 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 On a sad note... today I think I blew the piston rings. :( In the process I also had the MAF cap blow out too. (this explains why it wouldn't idle) Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted August 15, 2010 Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 WTF! REALLY? Wtf you be doing? SSSSSSSSSSSSssssss..... I hate when shit doesn't go as plan... I would of babied that truck for at least 10k. THEN fuck with it. Good luck man! Quote Link to comment
nis720 Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Dropped off the motor at the shop last night... not pretty. But I hope to have it ready for JCCS. Here's a pic of the Fontana Nissan photoshoot. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 Eventually, yes. But when I do that I'll be installing stiffer Pioneer valve springs (I already have them), turbo cam and port and polishing the head. Not cheap. :( The gasket was that thicker ebay gasket. The one I had before was the stamped turbonetics one I got from summit. Beware so called "turbo cams". All cams have some overlap when the exhaust valve is still closing while the intake is starting to open. On a normally aspirated motor this isn't a problem, valve events happen quickly and it takes a finite amount of time for the intake air to begin moving when the valve opens. By the time it does the exhaust has closed.On a boosted motor the intake air is under pressure and it will rush into the chamber much quicker and escape out the open exhaust port. Boost and fuel is wasted. A cam with lots of overlap will make less power than a short overlap cam. Usually the stock cam is good enough for a turbo. Turbos make so so engines great! A turbo overcomes a poor breathing head by force. WTF! REALLY? Wtf you be doing? SSSSSSSSSSSSssssss..... I hate when shit doesn't go as plan... I would of babied that truck for at least 10k. THEN fuck with it. Good luck man! Never baby a motor. If rebuilt, it need to be driven hard to break it in and seat the rings tightly for good sealing. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 well atleast its going to be bigger and better than before.id love to see this truck in person :thumbup: nicely put mike. ill follow the advice on my engine Quote Link to comment
sinner720st Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 shoot.. from the outside it looks about like my truck........ what am i thinking, im just lying , its because of the jealousy... you my friend have a ten Quote Link to comment
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