Let's see some machine work

[mklotz70]

I figure I'll have to dial in the run out every time I put it back in the chuck. Last time I made them manually, I had to chuck each piece 3 or 4 times if I remember right. I should only have to do it 2x's now, which should speed things up and improve the accuracy. I'm planning on doing all of the ID's, bevels, rear faces at the same time. Then, I'll put each one on the arbor and turn the OD, step and over all length....which should finish them up. I can set and check the DRO during the first piece or two...the rest should go pretty smoothly after that. We'll see. Of course, I have to actually be out in the shop to make them and I haven't done much at all in the last week or two :(

[datrod]

I'm making some side axles for the guys on hybridZ. This will let you run a subi r180 3.9 lsd in your Z or 510

[mklotz70]

So did you have to cut the step in the jaws? If so, do you keep those jaws in case you make more, or do you recut them for the next project? About how long did it take to turn each one? Can you cut the splines in the turning center or will you have to do them with the 4th axis on the mill?

 

So sweet!!!! Thanks!!!

[thisismatt]

Sweet. What about hardening?

[datrod]

So did you have to cut the step in the jaws? If so, do you keep those jaws in case you make more, or do you recut them for the next project? About how long did it take to turn each one? Can you cut the splines in the turning center or will you have to do them with the 4th axis on the mill?

 

So sweet!!!! Thanks!!!

 

 

Sweet. What about hardening?

 

Mike. I did cut a step in the jaws, And no I don't reuse them, I will re cut them so the part runs true. And no I can't cut splines on the lathe or mill. That's the gear cutters job.

 

Total machine time on that part so far is about 10 minutes. But that's only rough out. I have to finish them after heat treat.

After heat treat I'll finish the O.D. and send them to gear cut. Then back to the mill for the profile of the flange and holes.

 

 

Matt, The Mat'l is 4340 It will get heat treated to Rc 40-44 They will be bullet proof after H.T. We have done a sample set and tested them on a drag car. No problems.

[JoeinCa]

I wish I had taken more photos of the work I did at wyotech. From differential shortening, to valve cutting... I miss having access to a good fabrication and machine shop....

[mklotz70]

10min! Nice! It would take me at least 1.5 hours!!

[datrod]

10min! Nice! It would take me at least 1.5 hours!!

 

Yea 10 min and no BURN marks. :lol: And I only used 2 sides of the roughing incert on 40 Pcs.

[mklotz70]

I just tried to finish up the center bore on one of the adapters.....only took me about 3 min to make another $3 paperweight :(

 

Those inserts have to run in the $10 range? Luckily, mine are only around $3.50 each.

 

When you turn the jaws, do you have to put something in there to clamp down on? ...or do the jaws stay put well enough? Do you make your own jaws?

[thisismatt]

That's great! Any idea of pricing for a set, and what joints are they going to work with?

[datrod]

I just tried to finish up the center bore on one of the adapters.....only took me about 3 min to make another $3 paperweight :(

 

Those inserts have to run in the $10 range? Luckily, mine are only around $3.50 each.

 

When you turn the jaws, do you have to put something in there to clamp down on? ...or do the jaws stay put well enough? Do you make your own jaws?

 

The incerts run any where from 10-12 ea. But they last pretty good. I've been using sandvic With a 4225 grade & pm chip breaker. bullet proof.

 

Some jobs I just cut the jaws when they are open and cut about .010 over. Works for most set up's.

If I can't get it less than.002 I clamp on something and bore them. I don't make my own jaws. When you do production runs it's just easier to buy them. I'll weld pads on them to get more life out of them after they get to far out.

[datrod]

That's great! Any idea of pricing for a set, and what joints are they going to work with?

 

They will fit the stock 240 half shafts. If you go to hybridZ and go to the vendor thread you will find it there

under subaru sti side axles. I'm not sure how much he is selling them for. I'm making them for Beta motorsports. So I won't be selling them myself.

[bonvo]

Lots of good stuff here.

I like the rear view mirror... and the idea of using 2 angle iron pieces to hold the irregular shape in the vise.

 

Here's something i was able to do during my apprenticeship several years ago.

It's a short shifter for an A-series transmission.

I used a radius cutter for the ball on the end.

 

willing to do this again? or anyone on here willing to do this again? the 610 could desperatly use it :D

[mklotz70]

This is going to be a mini project I guess. I could/should probably start it's own thread, but since it's not really Datsun....I'll put it all here.

 

 

I've been having grief with trying to bore the inner diameter on the inner bearing adapters for the brake kits. The boring bar flexes, which can make it a real challenge to get an accurate hole. I've been wanting to make a bigger boring bar (...would that make it more boring?)...for awhile now...finally just did it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I got a little creative to get the angle I wanted for the insert. I didn't want exactly 60deg...I wanted an extra 5 deg(approx) so that if I bore into a blind hole, it won't chatter so bad at the bottom. I basically set up this bar for this specific boring operation, but I still put the extra angle in :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you look closely, you can see that the bottom of the insert hits first in the first pic. Not good. The end mill I used was not as sharp as I thought it was. I switched to a new end mill...much better. In the second pic, you can see the top of the insert hits first. The gap is because the side of the insert has a relief built into it. I think these only have about 3-5deg. I was worried that I'd need 11deg, but it seems to cut just fine. :)

 

 

 

 

 

To locate the hole, I found a bit that fit the insert hole really closely. I put the insert on upside down and used it as a guide. The bit was way to big for the tap hole....I simply used it to make a dimple for the correct bit. I could have used a centering punch, but the bit had a much better fit!

 

 

 

 

 

I drilled a small pilot hole, then drilled to the correct size for the tap....then tapped the hole. I think next time, I'll drill the hole, the mount the insert and mark where to mill it. The hole didn't come out exactly where I wanted it, but it's good enough for now.

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

It came out kinda purdy :) Man, it cuts sooooo much better than the other one I was using!!!!! I can see me making another one or two of these things!!! You can see the difference in the finish cut in the adapters. The two on the left are with the new bar. :)

 

 

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

Almost forgot about these pics. This is a knob I made for the hood release on the neighbor's Sportage. Had a piece of scrap that was almost the right size/shape to start with.

 

 

 

 

[datrod]

Nice work there Mike.

[mklotz70]

Thanks John!! :)

 

 

Thought I'd post a vid of the boring bar in action.

 

[datrod]

Another great video. I have to figure out how to get my camera in my lathe so I can show you what a .250-.300 per side cut looks like. I can't believe you were sticking your hand in there. :no: I think I told you one time not to be a puss and brush the chips off with your hand. But I was just kidding.

 

I'll respond to your e mail in the A.M. I just remembered that I didn't shoot ya one back.

[mklotz70]

Thanks! :) I'd love to see a real machine in action!!

 

I even say in the vid I'm not too bright!! That was the only one that I didn't clean out the chips first. I got sidetracked thinking about the video. I've got 7 more fingers to pick my nose with......so I don't really need that one :)

 

No prob on the pm...I need to hit the hay now anyway :)

[slodat]

I know you'll like this Mike!!

 

http://www.gaskrank.tv/tv/motorrad-fun/36-kg-schwerer-alu-daishin-cro-10963.htm

[mklotz70]

that's funny....I just saw that on Practical Machinist this morning and watched. Really sweet!!! I spent way too much time looking a Tormach 1100 stuff too. Sure would like to get one :)

[datrod]

Here is a pic of some new oil caps I made for the motor swap guys. VG-30, KA-24, SR-20. More pics in the parts for sale section.

[mklotz70]

Sweet!!! ....as always!! :)

[yellowdatsun]

Figured I'd finally add some machine work to the thread. I don't have the hot setup the other guys do, my mill is 100% manual.

Done a lot of Machining over the past week or so, figured I'd share it with everyone.

 

As some of you know I'm already running a modified Maxima intake on my VG30. I got another one and decided to really go crazy on it. Here's a pic of what it originally looks like:

 

 

I cut off the idle solenoid mounting boss:

 

 

Some of these are a bit out of order, but here's the EGR hole welded up and milled down. The weld wasn't enough and had to be re-cut again later.

 

 

This pic was done a some time ago, and the manifold used for a while, before the next picture was taken.

 

Then the EGR stuff, including the inner valve assemblies. You can also see I shaved off the "NISSAN" from the top of the cover, and milled flat all the other bosses on the side of the manifold:

 

 

Here's me cutting the "Datsun OHC" out of a valve cover:

 

 

Then milling a relief into the Maxima intake:

 

 

So it can accept the "Datsun OHC" lettering: