d.p Posted February 9, 2022 Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 Common west coast vs common east coast are 2 very different realities when owning a Datsun. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2022 Report Share Posted February 10, 2022 True but you never know what will turn up. There's 5 more vehicles that have 3.70 or 3.889 differentials in them. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2022 Report Share Posted February 10, 2022 On 2/3/2022 at 8:39 AM, Crashtd420 said: The d21 does but you need to be careful.... I think the 4x4 has a different spline count... D21 4x4 and any VG engine were H-233. Only 4 cylinder 2wd got the H-190 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted February 10, 2022 Report Share Posted February 10, 2022 On 2/9/2022 at 11:44 AM, datzenmike said: The '82-'83 S110 200sx automatics only were 3.70 H-190 (the manuals were 3.545) The one year only '74 S12 200sx had 3.70 manual and 3.889 automatic H-190* This is the only car differential with truck side gears!!!! Two minor clarifications. On that first one, it's only the 200SX with a Z22E. The Z20E cars have H165 diffs. On that second one, I think you meant '84 not '74. 👍 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2022 Report Share Posted February 10, 2022 Yes the '82 and the '83 S110 200sx were the only years with the Z22E and H-190. The '80-'82 S110 200sx was Z20E and H-165. We're both right. You are most definitely right about the '84 S12 200sx. I'll fix that. All '85 and up S12s were IRS Quote Link to comment
Oilspot Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 So due to supply chain shortages or whatever, local auto supply stores are hit or miss with different sizes of vacuum hose. I need to replace the all the vacuum hoses hanging off the driver side of my intake manifold. There are some that I think go to the whole system that ran the vacuum retard system (I've never verified that's what that crap is). Can I delete that? If not what size are the hoses so at least they're not creating a leak. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 I call bullshit on the vacuum hose shortage. Try buying it in bulk from Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/hoses-miscellaneous/fluid-type/vacuum?N=universal%3ayes Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 You can delete the timing retard system. Once the second set of points is disconnected, all other aspects of that system can go. That system was all electric though. Had nothing to do with vacuum. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 2 hours ago, Oilspot said: There are some that I think go to the whole system that ran the vacuum retard system (I've never verified that's what that crap is). Can I delete that? If not what size are the hoses so at least they're not creating a leak. A Datsun only needs one vacuum line, the one from the carb base to the distributor advance can. 😁 And if you still have points, get rid of that shit too... 😋 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 1 hour ago, mainer311 said: You can delete the timing retard system. Once the second set of points is disconnected, all other aspects of that system can go. That system was all electric though. Had nothing to do with vacuum. I would electrically join the two sets of points together under the cap, throw the rest away. As the the later opening (retarded for emissions) points are 4 degrees different from the advance set, reset your timing to factory. Now you have 4 degrees of added dwell time. Muscle cars had dual points distributors to allow more time for the magnetic field to build in the coil. 1 Quote Link to comment
Oilspot Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) Okay so it's not the timing retard system I'm looking at (not sure how/when I got the idea that's what it is). This damn thing bolted to the wheel well. What is it? I've never taken a close look at it and just assumed the two hoses were attached to the intake. Edited February 16, 2022 by Oilspot Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 It's part of the fuel tank evap system. It's a check valve of sorts that allows vapor to be sucked into the factory Hitachi carb. You can disconnect it. If there are any open holes in the manifold, plug them. Quote Link to comment
Oilspot Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 Okay so this piece of hose (the big one) looks suspect to create a intake leak. I'm assuming it's a pcv valve. What ID diameter is this hose so I can replace it. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 It's different on both ends. The crankcase end is approximately 1", while the PCV valve side is much smaller. 1/2" maybe? They're NLA. Best bet is to get a 1" to 1/2" barb adapter and make your own. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 13 minutes ago, mainer311 said: It's different on both ends. The crankcase end is approximately 1", while the PCV valve side is much smaller. 1/2" maybe? They're NLA. Best bet is to get a 1" to 1/2" barb adapter and make your own. I think I have one in good shape if you want it @Oilspot If you do let me know and I will check. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 Oh and I removed all those fuel evap lines and the tank in the bed in front of the driver side rear wheel well in the bed. Only difference is a slightly prevalent smell of gas which I don't really mind all that much. Quote Link to comment
Oilspot Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 4 minutes ago, d.p said: Oh and I removed all those fuel evap lines and the tank in the bed in front of the driver side rear wheel well in the bed. Only difference is a slightly prevalent smell of gas which I don't really mind all that much. I deleted something similar on a wire tucked Honda a while back resulting in fuel smell and a pressurized fuel tank on hot days. And i'm totally interested in the hose man Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) the smaller vacuum hoses picture you could just get rid of them. the bigger one I still think they have them listed but your fine as is the PVC will just close cause the vacuum will close it. I think it will still run with out the hose hooked up if I remeber right. But if you can I would keep it to keep the smell dowm on my sidedraft carbed 510 I just open vent the crank case. If its a newer motor it wont small all to much. If lots of blowby youll smell it bad at a stop light at idle as it blowing out Edited February 17, 2022 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 1 hour ago, Oilspot said: I deleted something similar on a wire tucked Honda a while back resulting in fuel smell and a pressurized fuel tank on hot days. And i'm totally interested in the hose man Let me know if you want it. I got no use for it with my L20b. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted February 17, 2022 Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 16 hours ago, mainer311 said: It's different on both ends. The crankcase end is approximately 1", while the PCV valve side is much smaller. 1/2" maybe? They're NLA. Best bet is to get a 1" to 1/2" barb adapter and make your own. FWIW, I've had good luck with buying a Z hose and shortening it a bit... https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6211 1 Quote Link to comment
Oilspot Posted March 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2022 Its been a few weeks since I've had time to mess with the truck because I was helping the future mother in law install an irrigation system on my time off. Figure I'd try to restore the hood emblem. I know the tape job isn't as crisp as it could be, but it's my first shot at this and I'm not sure when I clean it off with mineral spirits if the tape will fault around the edges. I tried rouging it gently with 100 grit. Gonna use a self etching primer followed with paint. I'm cleaning up the front turn signals and side markers today also. Along with the super time consuming sanding of the whole body. Quote Link to comment
Thomas Perkins Posted March 19, 2022 Report Share Posted March 19, 2022 Look's great... Quote Link to comment
Oilspot Posted March 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2022 Its a little rough around the edges but will do for now. Just confirming... Are those sections supposed to be black, along with parts of the headlight trim and backgrounds of the side logos??? It looked like they had been before and I'm trying to go back to og with everything on the truck. T Perkins flashy dog response makes me wonder if I've accidentally taken off on a customization mistake!?!? Which is by no means my goal. Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted March 20, 2022 Report Share Posted March 20, 2022 For detail painting like this, I would suggest using model car paint, like Testors enamel and a fine modeling paint brush. The hard edges can be easily cleaned up by using a rag with thinner on it. Quote Link to comment
Oilspot Posted August 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2022 It's just to damn hot to drive my truck here in southern NM here in the summer, but falls right around the corner. I take the truck out for a quick evening or early morning spin from time to time, but there's no way I can daily it in this shit! But falls right around the corner, so the 521 is back on my mind! My seat bottom springs are toast!!! There were 3 broken, and I'm pretty sure a 4th has cut loose! Does anybody have a full bench seat bottom they wanna sell? I'd actually prefer no upholstery, padding, etc. I'll need it shipped to 88007 unless your close. 1 Quote Link to comment
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