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NM 521


Oilspot

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On 2/3/2022 at 8:39 AM, Crashtd420 said:

The d21 does but you need to be careful.... I think the 4x4 has a different spline count...

 

D21 4x4 and any VG engine were H-233. Only 4 cylinder 2wd got the H-190

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On 2/9/2022 at 11:44 AM, datzenmike said:

The '82-'83 S110 200sx automatics only were 3.70 H-190 (the manuals were 3.545)

 

The one year only '74 S12 200sx had 3.70 manual and 3.889 automatic H-190* This is the only car differential with truck side gears!!!!

 

Two minor clarifications. On that first one, it's only the 200SX with a Z22E. The Z20E cars have H165 diffs. On that second one, I think you meant '84 not '74. 👍

 

 

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Yes the '82 and the '83 S110 200sx were the only years with the Z22E and H-190. The '80-'82 S110 200sx was Z20E and H-165. We're both right.

 

You are most definitely right about the '84 S12 200sx. I'll fix that. All '85 and up S12s were IRS

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So due to supply chain shortages or whatever, local auto supply stores are hit or miss with different sizes of vacuum hose.  I need to replace the all the vacuum hoses hanging off the driver side of my intake manifold. 

There are some that I think go to the whole system that ran the vacuum retard system (I've never verified that's what that crap is). Can I delete that? If not what size are the hoses so at least they're not creating a leak. 

 

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2 hours ago, Oilspot said:

There are some that I think go to the whole system that ran the vacuum retard system (I've never verified that's what that crap is). Can I delete that? If not what size are the hoses so at least they're not creating a leak. 

 

A Datsun only needs one vacuum line, the one from the carb base to the distributor advance can. 😁

 

And if you still have points, get rid of that shit too... 😋

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

You can delete the timing retard system. Once the second set of points is disconnected, all other aspects of that system can go. That system was all electric though. Had nothing to do with vacuum.

 

I would electrically join the two sets of points together under the cap, throw the rest away. As the the later opening (retarded for emissions) points are 4 degrees different from the advance set, reset your timing to factory. Now you have 4 degrees of added dwell time. Muscle cars had dual points distributors to allow more time for the magnetic field to build in the coil.  

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m8YCBPK.jpgOkay so it's not the timing retard system I'm looking at (not sure how/when I got the idea that's what it is). 

This damn thing bolted to the wheel well. What is it? I've never taken a close look at it and just assumed the two hoses were attached to the intake. 

Edited by Oilspot
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13 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

It's different on both ends. The crankcase end is approximately 1", while the PCV valve side is much smaller. 1/2" maybe? They're NLA. Best bet is to get a 1" to 1/2" barb adapter and make your own. 

 

I think I have one in good shape if you want it @Oilspot  If you do let me know and I will check. 

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Oh and I removed all those fuel evap lines and the tank in the bed in front of the driver side rear wheel well in the bed.  Only difference is a slightly prevalent smell of gas which I don't really mind all that much.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, d.p said:

Oh and I removed all those fuel evap lines and the tank in the bed in front of the driver side rear wheel well in the bed.  Only difference is a slightly prevalent smell of gas which I don't really mind all that much.

 

 

I deleted something similar on a wire tucked Honda a while back resulting in fuel smell and a pressurized fuel tank on hot days. 

And i'm totally interested in the hose man

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the smaller vacuum hoses picture you could just get rid of them.

the bigger one  I still think they have them listed but your fine as is the PVC will just close cause the vacuum will close it. I think it will still run with out the hose hooked up if I remeber right. But if you can I would keep it to keep the smell dowm

 

on my sidedraft carbed 510 I just open vent the crank case. If its a newer motor it wont small all to much. If lots of blowby youll smell it bad at a stop light at idle as it blowing out

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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1 hour ago, Oilspot said:

I deleted something similar on a wire tucked Honda a while back resulting in fuel smell and a pressurized fuel tank on hot days. 

And i'm totally interested in the hose man

 
 

Let me know if you want it.  I got no use for it with my L20b.  

39AFFEA7-7657-428E-8359-7C38D52594BD.jpeg

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16 hours ago, mainer311 said:

It's different on both ends. The crankcase end is approximately 1", while the PCV valve side is much smaller. 1/2" maybe? They're NLA. Best bet is to get a 1" to 1/2" barb adapter and make your own. 

 

FWIW, I've had good luck with buying a Z hose and shortening it a bit...

 

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6211

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

AqhEZib.jpg

Its been a few weeks since I've had time to mess with the truck because I was helping the future mother in law install an irrigation system on my time off. 

Figure I'd try to restore the hood emblem. I know the tape job isn't as crisp as it could be, but it's my first shot at this and I'm not sure when I clean it off with mineral spirits if the tape will fault around the edges. 

I tried rouging it gently with 100 grit. Gonna use a self etching primer followed with paint. 

I'm cleaning up the front turn signals and side markers today also. Along with the super time consuming sanding of the whole body. 

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tLewVSw.jpg

Its a little rough around the edges but will do for now.

Just confirming... Are those sections supposed to be black, along with parts of the headlight trim and backgrounds of the side logos??? It looked like they had been before and I'm trying to go back to og with everything on the truck.

T Perkins flashy dog response makes me wonder if I've accidentally taken off on a customization mistake!?!? Which is by no means my goal. 

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For detail painting like this, I would suggest using model car paint, like Testors enamel and a fine modeling paint brush. The hard edges can be easily cleaned up by using a rag with thinner on it.

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