Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
d.p

Broken timing cover dizzy mount

Recommended Posts

Hits keep coming with this truck.  

 

Was taking a look today and noticed my dizzy mount on the timing cover had cracked.  Took the dizzy out and the section seems to have just sheered off.  Just recently I installed a petronix dizzy but not sure that would cause this?  I have another L16 with the timing cover still on it so I can use that one once I get it off (have to break crank bolt loose).  Or can I just jb weld this shit?  Wish I could drive this thing without constantly having to take it apart. 

 

Beyond frustrating at this point.  

 

 

23959518628_3531144fe1.jpg

 

37780859952_4407e63154.jpg

 

37554239020_5829a87d47.jpg

 

37764268136_cde542cd01.jpg

Share this post


Link to post

I saw JB weld it. what you got to lose.

 

never seen one crack before like that. unless you did something and not saying. Maybe its just getting old or the spindal holder inside is wrn and causing a wiggle to move it up to the distributor

Share this post


Link to post

Going to try jb weld. And what could I do to cause that?

Share this post


Link to post

Thoroughly de-grease with carb cleaner or something.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Acetone and an old toothbrush with the bristles trimmed back to about 3/16" - 1/4" for good scrubbin'.

Share this post


Link to post

Hits keep coming with this truck.  

 

Was taking a look today and noticed my dizzy mount on the timing cover had cracked.  Took the dizzy out and the section seems to have just sheered off.  Just recently I installed a petronix dizzy but not sure that would cause this?  I have another L16 with the timing cover still on it so I can use that one once I get it off (have to break crank bolt loose).  Or can I just jb weld this shit?  Wish I could drive this thing without constantly having to take it apart. 

 

Beyond frustrating at this point.  

 

 

23959518628_3531144fe1.jpg

 

37780859952_4407e63154.jpg

 

37554239020_5829a87d47.jpg

 

37764268136_cde542cd01.jpg

....I hear you but our vehicles are over 40 years old, things will come lose, fall apart, break apart, leak, hang in there...

Share this post


Link to post

Most likely cause is the new blue gasket, and everything bolted down with old black gasket material still on the machined surfaces.

#1 cause of broken intake manifolds, and other cast aluminum parts.

 

Why not do it right, and just replace the front cover.

There has to be hundreds of those things laying in garages.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Most likely cause is the new blue gasket, and everything bolted down with old black gasket material still on the machined surfaces.

#1 cause of broken intake manifolds, and other cast aluminum parts.

 

Why not do it right, and just replace the front cover.

There has to be hundreds of those things laying in garages.

There's one in his garage needs to get it off the spare motor....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

In the last photo it appears to already have something on it.

 

What I would do is try the JB weld but I would also make a bracket that goes from the 10mm bolt holding the dizzy to that piece of metal to one of the front cover bolts below it, the bracket needs to be tight enough to slightly pull down to keep the piece of metal in place.

 

The pain here is that changing that front cover out is not a couple hour job, that is one of the time consuming jobs on these engines, I can do a headgasket way faster and not have any oil leaks when I am done.

Share this post


Link to post

Shitty if that’s why it broke because the shop put that gasket on there when they replaced the chain tensioner. Also I don’t want to take the tc off if I don’t have to but I have another one that I can use if jb weld doesn’t work.

 

That picture does make it look there is crap on there but it may just be the lighting. Will take another look when I get a minute.

Share this post


Link to post

Assemble with the distributor holding it in place like a splint, till it's cured.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I would think the tiny 6mm bolt would strip or break before it built enough force to break off that much of the aluminum cover.

 

Seems like something else happened to cause this failure.

 

Would I JB weld it? Hell no. I'd remove it and replace it or TIG weld it. But to get you back on the road in the meantime? Ok, as long as it's not permanent.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Yeah I don't know what would cause it?  That spindle/dizzy just spins?  No up/down. 

 

Anyways I jb welded it, let it sit overnight, cleaned the mounting surfaces, replaced the o-ring, replaced the gasket and put it all back together.  Will see how long it holds.  

Share this post


Link to post

Got a questions.

 

I have a spare l16 which I took the head off and now want to take the timing cover off. What is the easiest way to remove the crank bolt with the head off (chain is wedged)?

Share this post


Link to post

Well unlikely you will do so without upsetting the wedge. As you are taking the timing cover off any way, and can reset it once it's off, just take it out now.

 

I've done the following several times in a wrecking yard with an engine laying on the ground. Fit the 28mm? socket over the bolt with a piece of pipe over the end to increase the mechanical advantage with it to the starter side. Wear a work boot or something stout. Take careful aim (put down your purse) and stomp down HARD on the bar. The inertia of the crank, rods  and pistons are more than enough to allow the bolt to snap loose.

 

If the engine is in the vehicle, put the socket and ratchet (maybe with pipe extension) on the crank bolt and swing the ratchet arm up against the frame near the lower rad return hose. Be sure everything is out of the way and your battery is fully charged and hit the start with the key. The engine will turn clockwise while the nut unscrews counter clockwise. Use only enough to snap the nut loose. Just a tap.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Impact, if you do not have one of them then take the clutch cover off the flywheel and drill two holes in a beefy piece of metal bar and bolt it to the flywheel using clutch cover bolts towards the passenger side, then put whatever is needed to hold that bar still if the bar is not touching the ground(concrete block?) and then do what Mike mentioned above, hit it hard with your foot or a sledge, spitting maul, anything heavy.

As he mentioned since your taking the front cover off it really doesn't matter if it moves but it would be nice if it didn't move and somehow bind against the cover and break it, that seems to be how stuff goes for me, but I have an impact and took one off a Z24 just the other day, it didn't move even without the wedge.

Share this post


Link to post

Engine is out of the truck sitting on a little dolly.  I don't have an impact and I don't have the flywheel but the 5 bolts in the back of the crank shaft are there.   

 

Pull the wedge, put a huge breaker bar on it and kick down?  I don't need to wedge the crank or anything?  I figure if I try to break it loose now it will just turn the motor.   Yeah would suck if I broke the TC doing this cause thats the whole reason I am doing this is to have a spare if my jb weld shits the bed.   

Share this post


Link to post

You need to have something hold the crank still/in position, I would leave the wedge in.

Share this post


Link to post

Pull oil pan, block crank with board, long breaker bar. Got to take some pan bolts out to remove timing cover, why not pull the pan.

Share this post


Link to post

Get a piece of angle steel, 1x1 or 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 on each side, about two feet long.  Drill two 5/16 holes, in the angle steel, the distance of the bolts that are 144 degrees apart on the flywheel.  Put the holes just far enough away from the inside angle that you can have the head of the bolt inside the angle.  

Bolt the angle steel to the flywheel, and you have a two foot lever to hold the engine from rotating.  you can also use this to remove the flywheel bolts, when you need to do that.

Share this post


Link to post

Drill holes in a flywheel, in order to hold the engine from turning ???

 

Kind of kills the balance.

Maybe OK on a farm tractor that has a max RPM of 2000, but not on a car engine.

 

Why not just use the holes already in it, that are for the pressure plate ?

Share this post


Link to post

I believe in my post I mentioned drilling holes in the angle steel, not the flywheel.  You then use the pressure plate bolts, into the pressure plate bolt holes, to hold the steel angle to the flywheel.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Crash said to wedge the crank from below but I got no easy way to get the pan off right now cause I don't have a stand.  I don't have any flat iron either but I guess I can find some somewhere.  If I were to do that just drill a couple holes in it and slap it on the back of the crank using 2 of those 5 bolts? 

 

37600466800_55a1e804d8.jpg

 

37600466730_9ab8fceeac.jpg

Share this post


Link to post

Could probably slip something between the crank bolts.

Share this post


Link to post

You can also stuff #1 cylinder full of clean rags, and bolt the head back on using just the bolts around that cylinder.

Just snug the bolts down, no need to torque them.

The rags act as a nice soft piston stop :)

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.