flyerdan

Had to change password because I was locked out of the same login info used yesterday, finally got that sorted to come in to this plane crash. All new content is replies to this. Maybe I'll come back in a month and see if it's sorted.

If I recall correctly, he attributed a lot of his aerial combat success to his incredible vision, which was far superior to the average person. That's probably where the windshield cleaner got it's brand name from.

One thing that I don't think that anyone's mentioned yet, is your new bearings were swimming in the gritty gear oil. Since you'll have the axles out anyway, flush them good with clean solvent and blow them out good. Hand check for free movement; any hesitation or binding flush again. Hopefully they didn't run long enough to get any pitting.

If you have compressed air, get an air hammer (HF has them for around a tenner) grind a chisel flat so it won't gouge the drum and go around it with short bursts. If there are any threads left in the 8x1.25 holes, put a bit of strain on it, and take up the slack as the air hammer loosens it. They are remarkable at taking stuck things apart without inflicting the damage that whaling with a bfh can incur.

It's a Globe Swift. They were post war production aircraft aimed at returning fighter pilots, since they are retractable taildraggers. With the flood of surplus military trainers offering more bang for the buck, the GA post war market didn't take off as much as everyone hoped. Swifts are fun little planes, I got to fly one once.

Flickr was bought out by Smugmug, which the new TOS email that will soon be hitting your inboxes will detail. Comparing PB to the Corvair or Pinto would be comparable if every.single. Pinto burst into flame when you opened the door, or every.single Corvair turned turtle when you moved the wheel. Facebook was (and probably still is) flogging your info behind the scenes. Photobucket had the incredibly stupid idea to ransomeware every.single. user's account, which is impossible to bluff your way out of by blaming user error, platform incompatibility, etc.

As soon as they cross, they should be loaded onto a MATS for deportation, but a typical snafu lands them in Kabul instead. Oops, it'll take years to sort this mess. Any so called lawyers should feel free to go along for "advice".

Redline makes a product called Water Wetter which is supposed to aid in heat transfer. It's an emulsifier, which breaks the surface tension of the coolant, letting it flow better and pick up heat from hot spots better. It would be worth a try a it's relatively inexpensive and easy to do. Years ago my dad had a huge Uniflite boat that he pulled with a Dodge pickup, he rigged up a spray bar in front of the radiator that would put out a mist supplied by a windshield washer pump and a big plastic jug in back. When the temp would start to rise, he'd turn on the pump and wet the radiator down, as water is 25 times better than air for heat exchanging. Rising temps were only an issue on long uphill pulls on hot days.

It's too bad that cleaning the bores up didn't solve anything. Having to start from scratch is going to be costly and time consuming; none of the SA cylinders on Surplus Center had the Tee ends, so you'd have to go to a more expensive double acting, change to bed and frame attach points to be compatible with clevis ends, or cut off your existing Tees from the bad cylinders and weld them to the new ones. They would probably have to be fixtured, as the Tee tolerance is less forgiving than the clevis ends. If you do have to redo everything, I'd definitely have the fitting at the bottom so you won't have those big loops of hose hanging down, ready to catch anything in the woods. It would also be a good time to put in some grease fittings, there should be ten of them on that.

One thing that doesn't get hammered enough, and it's so fucking obvious it should be unarguable; arming teachers would be a major deterrent factor. In practically every case, when the plods finally arrive after being called, the cuntfaced fucktards top themselves rather than engage in a firefight. If even the threat of meeting armed resistance would keep them from trying in the first place, it's a win. You see signs all over saying speed controlled by aircraft, but how often do you see rozzers in a Skylane timing traffic? Casinos have lots of those little black domes in the ceilings for cameras, but not all of them have cameras. The flight attendants don't give a shout-out to Marv, the armed air marshal there in 37C, who might or might not be on this flight. What do you thing would be a better home defense, a sign that says "Fuck the NRA" or :"Protected by ADT"

Link doesn't work; it's probably the same one I posted way back on page 1.

A lot of times they use the good Loctite to secure the nut that holds the piston to the shaft, so it needs to be heated pretty good before trying to get it off. You really don't need to remove it unless the gland seal needs replaced, as the only way it will come off is out the back or cutting the T sleeve off the front. Glad that you managed to get such good results without spending a fortune; you probably don't need to do the other side, but since you're already set up for it and it's relatively easy it would be good to have a look, just for peace of mind.

If you can't find a hone with the depth required, I'd fab one up from a small can that would fit inside, like a tomato sauce can, some all thread and pop rivet some strips of wet/dry in layers so the rivet heads are covered and work the bad area, feathering side to side. Then clean it up with some strips of scotch brite and diesel. That's cheap and easy and can be whipped up with stuff you already have laying around (if you're a packrat bodger like me). If the rust is at the top of the cylinder, that would mean that is would be from moisture in the air and not water in the system, so it shouldn't be as deep; it might clean up with the scotchbrite alone.

If the rods and barrels are in good shape, they just need resealing. They should never see fluid at the gland, as that indicates that the piston seals are letting fluid by. Since it is a single acting cylinder, there is no port for the accumulated fluid to exit, it has to either go back past the piston seals against pump pressure or out the gland end as the volume decreases as the bed lifts. The Surplus Center site has seal kits for some cylinders, if you determine your bore and rod diameter you might find them fairly cheap. I would probably order two and only do the one that's leaking right now, checking the bore for anything that might snag the new seals. They probably come apart with a two pin spanner, and the overhaul could be done on the truck, using the top pin as the vice to hold it from turning. Pull the bottom pin, lever the cylinder closed to empty it, take the hose off so it will let you pull the guts, unscrew the end and slide everything out.

The prices quoted are absolutely criminal. On pic 3 above, it appears that there has been some welding done on the port side cylinder where it anchors to the bed; is the leak coming from there or around the packing gland? If the cylinder body is intact, check the rods for nicks and burrs that could rip up a seal, those have to be dressed down or any new seal will fail soon. If it's leaking from the shaft seals, that means that the piston seals are bad as well, as that would be the dry side on a single acting cylinder, which appear to be installed upside down compared to every other application like this. If all else fails, take some measurements and see if you can find a direct replacement at Surplus Center, will still be wheelbarrow loads of cash ahead of the shyster shop.