Just bought a 521

[mainer311]

1 minute ago, d.p said:

@mainer311 so now you can watch your water gauge while you watch your water gauge?  @Charlie69 Just search for Datsun 510 Koyo Radiator and you will find it. 

 

Haha. Well, now I'll at least have numbers to watch...instead of some arbitrary lines. 

 

@Charlie69 Part number is: HH022598

[Charlie69]

Thank you Mariner.

d.p I want to be spoon fed like you!

[d.p]

1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

 

Haha. Well, now I'll at least have numbers to watch...instead of some arbitrary lines. 

 

@Charlie69 Part number is: HH022598

 

 

I still have mine but its uninstalled in favor of volt meter, but I have the cig volt meter as well haha.   I also have an A/F guage uninstalled so not sure what I am going to do with all of them.  4 gauges is too much IMHO for these trucks.  

[d.p]

49 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

Thank you Mariner.

d.p I want to be spoon fed like you!

 

Spoon me baby.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 5/20/2021 at 9:06 AM, d.p said:

 

 

I still have mine but its uninstalled in favor of volt meter, but I have the cig volt meter as well haha.   I also have an A/F guage uninstalled so not sure what I am going to do with all of them.  4 gauges is too much IMHO for these trucks.  

My race car is getting three gauges. Water temp, oil pressure and a tach. That's it.

[mainer311]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

My race car is getting three gauges. Water temp, oil pressure and a tach. That's it.

Those are the same 3 that I have in the truck, though a tach isn’t really necessary.

[d.p]

3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

My race car is getting three gauges. Water temp, oil pressure and a tach. That's it.

I will end up with oil pressure, water temp and a tach I think.  I plan on just installing the A/F gauge to fine tune it then swap it for a water temp gauge once I am confident it’s dialed in. 

[Crashtd420]

4 minutes ago, d.p said:

I will end up with oil pressure, water temp and a tach I think.  I plan on just installing the A/F gauge to fine tune it then swap it for a water temp gauge once I am confident it’s dialed in. 

You could always hide the air/fuel gauge inside the glove box.... 

[datzenmike]

On 5/13/2021 at 6:31 AM, mainer311 said:

 

 

I arbitrarily picked 6krpm as my max, but theoretically I could go a lot less than that since I'm typically just raising hell around town. 

 

An 86mm stroke is good for 7k red line.

 

Stroke in inches X RPM / 6 must equal just under 4,000 ft. per min. piston speed

 

 

 

On 5/20/2021 at 9:06 AM, d.p said:

 

 

I still have mine but its uninstalled in favor of volt meter, but I have the cig volt meter as well haha.   I also have an A/F guage uninstalled so not sure what I am going to do with all of them.  4 gauges is too much IMHO for these trucks.  

 

Volt failure will not result an any engine damage so this gauge isn't much use.

Oil pressure, water temp and tach are extremely good to have.

A/F is a handy diagnostic at a glance. If it changes from the normal and shows rich, a carb may be flooding, if leaner than normal maybe one jet is obstructed. If really stepping on it, a quick glance to see it's in the 12s is comforting.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I figure tuning negates the need for an A/F gauge. Once it's tuned, the only thing it is good for is detecting problems, which one hopes will never occur.

 

Volt meters are good in trucks, that work, like my Rover, which I use around the property. They are also good on long trips. I watch my psi, h2o and volt gauges while I'm on the trail. A few weeks back I had to winch hard up a steep hill, and the oil pressure dropped to zero, but I needed the engine running to help with the amp draw from the winch. I ran it at zero for about 20 seconds.

 

I like gauges to match, and getting a bunch of gauges to match is difficult, unless they all come from the same mfg. Below is a pic of the custom Speedhut tach I had made to look like the vintage Stewart Warner gauges for my Sprite. The only difference is the numbers are radially placed, to mimmick a vintage Jones mechanical tach. I also had them put a version of my logo on the tach face.

 

[d.p]

20 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

An 86mm stroke is good for 7k red line.

 

Stroke in inches X RPM / 6 must equal just under 4,000 ft. per min. piston speed

Yeah I have my tech limit (arrow) set to 6.5k but I should have no problem blasting it to 7k?  I do find driving my truck more and more it lacks down below but screams up top. Especially at highway speeds. 

[d.p]

Yeah all my finishes match. Black Autometer Z series.  Expect I mistakenly ordered a silver one because I didn’t think they made a black one. 
 

 

Edited May 23, 2021 by d.p

[Charlie69]

On 5/20/2021 at 9:07 AM, d.p said:

 

Spoon me baby.  

No thank you I prefer women!!!  LOL

[datzenmike]

5 hours ago, d.p said:

Yeah I have my tech limit (arrow) set to 6.5k but I should have no problem blasting it to 7k?  I do find driving my truck more and more it lacks down below but screams up top. Especially at highway speeds. 

 

Red line is 4,000 feet per minute, the point above which stock metal parts such as rods and rod bolts begin to stretch from the g forces placed on them. A longer stroke travels 4,000 fpm with fewer turns so the red line is lower. A Z24 with a 96mm stroke red lines at 6,250 RPM. L20B rods and pistons accelerate and decelerate 116 times a second. You can increase the red line by using stronger fasteners and rods or lighter reciprocating parts or both.  

[Charlie69]

No Mike redline is what ever you want to make it ask d.p!  LOL

[mainer311]

Fairly certain Drew and I’s L20’s are not going to be seeing 7krpm very often. No harmonic dampers, no fully balanced bottom ends, etc. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I think L20 are more balance than L16s

[d.p]

4 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Fairly certain Drew and I’s L20’s are not going to be seeing 7krpm very often. No harmonic dampers, no fully balanced bottom ends, etc. 

 

I have read somewhere that build L20bs can rev up to 7K but who knows if that is true and whether that is good to do fuck if I know.  All I want to know is what RPM can I safely rev this fucker up to without having to worry about grenading it? 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

20 hours ago, d.p said:

Yeah I have my tech limit (arrow) set to 6.5k but I should have no problem blasting it to 7k?  I do find driving my truck more and more it lacks down below but screams up top. Especially at highway speeds. 

Advancing your cam timing gives you more low end power. Do you know where your cam is set?

[d.p]

13 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Advancing your cam timing gives you more low end power. Do you know where your cam is set?

 

#2 or 3 IDK lol.      Not even sure when I took this pic but it looks like when I first got the engine so its probably not accurate anymore.  I would have to dig through my photos to see if I snapped a pic but I think its on #3.  

 

Edited May 24, 2021 by d.p

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Really, that tells me nothing. To actually know where a cam is set, some amount of degreeing needs to be done. If you want to get more out of the engine, do some research and figure out how to adjust and measure the cam timing.

 

I posted a couple days ago about how to get more adjustment out of a stock or replacement timing set. Use offset timing gear bushings for a V8. Drill the hole in the cam gear and select/install the bushing that suits your needs. It's super easy and eliminates the need for an adjustable timing gear. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/camshaft-degree-bushings?N=engine-type%3Av8

[d.p]

37 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Really, that tells me nothing. To actually know where a cam is set, some amount of degreeing needs to be done. If you want to get more out of the engine, do some research and figure out how to adjust and measure the cam timing.

 

I posted a couple days ago about how to get more adjustment out of a stock or replacement timing set. Use offset timing gear bushings for a V8. Drill the hole in the cam gear and select/install the bushing that suits your needs. It's super easy and eliminates the need for an adjustable timing gear. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/camshaft-degree-bushings?N=engine-type%3Av8

 

[mainer311]

Yeah, fuck that. Just let the fucker loose like a raped ape.

[d.p]

Yeah I agree but still no answer to my question, everyone wants to talk some nonsense about cam timing,  a z24 block, what I set my redline to, etc...someone just tell me at what RPM I should stop rev'ing to on a bored and cam'd l20B?  

[datzenmike]

L20B is safe to 7k if in good shape. Definitely safe for a quick buzz to that in first or second. Theoretically safe to hold there at full throttle but I would err on the side of caution. My factory tach shows yellow at 6,500 and red starting at 7k.

 

7 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Fairly certain Drew and I’s L20’s are not going to be seeing 7krpm very often. No harmonic dampers, no fully balanced bottom ends, etc. 

 

The L20B and the Z20 (uses an L20B crankshaft) are fully counter weighted.

 

L20B U60 fully counter weighted crank shaft top. Z22 not so well counter weighted below.