Charlie69 Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 Are you using the the metal brackets from the L16 on the L20B? Is there any difference in the L16 brackets and the L20B? I do not remember if there is a difference. On my 66 520 I had all L20B mounts, brackets and Isolators. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 I got the fucker in finally. Seated the passenger side and attached the drivers side bracket and isolater to the block and used a giant crow bar to get it on. now trying to mate the trans but when I let the engine down into the bay it rocks back towards the firewall which it’s a bitch to try and get the trans lined up. Is it supposed to tilt back when it’s just attached to the mounts? 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 (edited) Put a jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to stabilize engine. Another reason to install as on unit. Only one battle instead of two. Edited December 20, 2020 by Charlie69 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 2 hours ago, d.p said: Drivers side. You are moving this one later, right? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 Seeing all of these stainless socket heads in load bearing locations is making me cringe. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 Stainless isn't as strong. Plated maybe? 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 Mounts are done. 37 minutes ago, datzenmike said: You are moving this one later, right? Engine is in. Trying to mate the trans but gave up for the day. Over it. 2 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 Close. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: Stainless isn't as strong. Plated maybe? No, he bought a stainless fastener “kit.” I didn’t think they would include bolts for things like the engine mounts. Fuck that. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 If that’s bad juju I have the stock block to mount bolts and can use those instead. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 I certainly would. Grade 10.9’s if you can find any local. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 8 minutes ago, mainer311 said: I certainly would. Grade 10.9’s if you can find any local. I have whatever was on there before but will look to see what I can find. And as long as they’re aren’t short 10x1.25 I should t have too hard of time finding something. I assume I can swap them out without having to take the mounts off? If I do then fuck it I’m leaving those installed. Got the trans mated and bolted to the engine...was surprisingly easy Just pulled it forward from the engine bay and it slid right in. Now just need to install the trans mounts and everything else. Can someone tell me what kind of oil I need for the steering column and the trans? And any special oil for firing this fucker up the first time? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 (edited) Trans takes the same as the 4 speed. Any GL-4 gear oil. Nissan still sells it, or you can run synthetic Redline MT-85 or MT-90, Amsoil Manual Transmission fluid, or Sta-lube. Can be kinda hard to find. Everyone carries GL-5, but GL-4 is “outdated” and kind of a niche item. I run the same Nissan oil in my manual trans Xterra as I do in both my roadster and 521 transmissions. I would run any cheap ass name brand dino oil, and add some zddp or other break-in additive to it. Most local places will have Lucas zinc additive. Don’t run synthetic the first time around. You want there to be a little bit of friction going on between the rings and cylinder walls so that they bed in properly. Edited December 21, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 I’m running stainless. Your find get it mounted and drive it. If it was pure then yes weak, but it’s maybe 50% your fine. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 GL-5 is not recommended for anything but differentials. GL-4 for transmissions, transfer cases and steering box. Synthetic works wonders in a transmission. It shifts faster with the same effort and reduces grinding on down shifts, however it can start to seep past old seals where the thicker old oil does not. I've had this and usually new output seal fixes it.. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 Is Trans in yet? If not why don't you loosen the motor mounts bolts , all of them up enough and get a 2x4 under the front pulley and lift the motor so it angles back. Your never get it in when it parrallell with the floor Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 10 hours ago, datzenmike said: GL-5 is not recommended for anything but differentials. GL-4 for transmissions, transfer cases and steering box. Synthetic works wonders in a transmission. It shifts faster with the same effort and reduces grinding on down shifts, however it can start to seep past old seals where the thicker old oil does not. I've had this and usually new output seal fixes it.. Except even the diffs can have yellow metals in them... Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 34 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Is Trans in yet? If not why don't you loosen the motor mounts bolts , all of them up enough and get a 2x4 under the front pulley and lift the motor so it angles back. Your never get it in when it parrallell with the floor It’s all in. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, mrbigtanker said: I’m running stainless. Your find get it mounted and drive it. If it was pure then yes weak, but it’s maybe 50% your fine. I can tell you know a lot about bolts. “Pure” Jesus H. You realize “stainless steel” is already an alloy, right? Does pure mean it’s never been fucked? Common socket heads are 316 and 18-8. Gummy as hell. If those bolts back off at all, they’ll be in direct shear. We’ve been over this already. 17-4PH are exotic and stupid expensive, so it’s highly unlikely that is what they are. Edited December 21, 2020 by mainer311 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 Only the very early H-190. I err on the side of caution. The sulfur anti scuff additives in GL-4 are around 4% and 6% in GL-5. You might think that 2% isn't a big deal but the amount is more like 50% more additive. Differential gears need the extra protection and transmissions don't. Transmissions will tolerate a GL-4 much better and specially when owners don't change their gear oil regularly as the sulfur compounds break down and become acidic. Usually the synchros come out bright and shiny. Instead of. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 (edited) Engine and trans are in. Like I said I just need to install the trans mounts and the shifter(sits awfully far back) and the hardest part is done. Parking brake is extremely close to the block and fucked up my nice paint job when I dropped it so wondering I need to move it and if so how? I’ll order oil, new engine bracket bolts (10x1.50 30MM) and get my drive shaft shortened. The rest is just bolt on stuff ,and figure out mikuni throttle and fuel lines(current inlets face the back of the engine). Edited December 21, 2020 by d.p Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 1 hour ago, mainer311 said: I can tell you know a lot about bolts. “Pure” Jesus H. You realize “stainless steel” is already an alloy, right? Does pure mean it’s never been fucked? Common socket heads are 316 and 18-8. Gummy as hell. If those bolts back off at all, they’ll be in direct shear. We’ve been over this already. 17-4PH are exotic and stupid expensive, so it’s highly unlikely that is what they are. I paid $100 for the entire set from Jose at one of the zcar websites and he seems to know his shit. Ray which does he run?? Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 Parking brake arm: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 Should be the same as the original L16. Was it bent getting the engine out??? Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 ARP makes stainless bolts, think they are no good? These are the exact thread and length needed for the mount bracket bolts. https://www.corsportusa.com/i-60384-arp-stainless-bolt-kit-m10x1-50-30mm-uhl.html Nah wasn't bent or anything, I think its just always been close. Quote Link to comment
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