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My 1971 521


d.p

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I got the fucker in finally. Seated the passenger side and attached the drivers side bracket and isolater to the block and used a giant crow bar to get it on.  
 

now trying to mate the trans but when I let the engine down into the bay it rocks back towards the firewall which it’s a bitch to try and get the trans lined up.  Is it supposed to tilt back when it’s just attached to the mounts? 

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8 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

I certainly would. Grade 10.9’s if you can find any local. 


I have whatever was on there before but will look to see what I can find.  And as long as they’re aren’t short 10x1.25 I should t have too hard of time finding something.  I assume I can swap them out without having to take the mounts off? If I do then fuck it I’m leaving those installed.      
 

Got the trans mated and bolted to the engine...was surprisingly easy  Just pulled it forward from the engine bay and it slid right in. Now just need to install the trans mounts and everything else.    
 

Can someone tell me what kind of oil I need for the steering column and the trans? And any special oil for firing this fucker up the first time? 
 

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Trans takes the same as the 4 speed. Any GL-4 gear oil. Nissan still sells it, or you can run synthetic Redline MT-85 or MT-90, Amsoil Manual Transmission fluid, or Sta-lube. Can be kinda hard to find. Everyone carries GL-5, but GL-4 is “outdated” and kind of a niche item. I run the same Nissan oil in my manual trans Xterra as I do in both my roadster and 521 transmissions.

 

I would run any cheap ass name brand dino oil, and add some zddp or other break-in additive to it. Most local places will have Lucas zinc additive. Don’t run synthetic the first time around. You want there to be a little bit of friction going on between the rings and cylinder walls so that they bed in properly.

Edited by mainer311
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GL-5 is not recommended for anything but differentials. GL-4 for transmissions, transfer cases and steering box.

 

Synthetic works wonders in a transmission. It shifts faster with the same effort and reduces grinding on down shifts, however it can start to seep past old seals where the thicker old oil does not. I've had this and usually new output seal fixes it..

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10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

GL-5 is not recommended for anything but differentials. GL-4 for transmissions, transfer cases and steering box.

 

Synthetic works wonders in a transmission. It shifts faster with the same effort and reduces grinding on down shifts, however it can start to seep past old seals where the thicker old oil does not. I've had this and usually new output seal fixes it..

Except even the diffs can have yellow metals in them...

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34 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Is Trans in yet?

If not why don't you loosen the motor mounts bolts , all of them up enough and get a 2x4 under the front pulley and lift the motor so it angles back.

Your never get it in when it parrallell with the floor


It’s all in.

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10 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

I’m running stainless. Your find get it mounted and drive it.  If it was pure then yes weak, but it’s maybe 50% your fine. 


I can tell you know a lot about bolts. “Pure” 

Jesus H.

You realize “stainless steel” is already an alloy, right? Does pure mean it’s never been fucked?

 

Common socket heads are 316 and 18-8. Gummy as hell. If those bolts back off at all, they’ll be in direct shear. We’ve been over this already. 17-4PH are exotic and stupid expensive, so it’s highly unlikely that is what they are.

Edited by mainer311
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Only the very early H-190. I err on the side of caution.

 

The sulfur anti scuff additives in GL-4 are around 4% and 6% in GL-5. You might think that 2% isn't a big deal but the amount is more like 50% more additive. Differential gears  need the extra protection and transmissions don't. Transmissions will tolerate a GL-4 much better and specially when owners don't change their gear oil regularly as the sulfur compounds break down and become acidic. Usually the synchros come out bright and shiny.

 

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Instead of.

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Engine and trans are in.  Like I said I just need to install the trans mounts and the shifter(sits awfully far back) and the hardest part is done.  
 

Parking brake is extremely close to the block and fucked up my nice paint job when I dropped it so wondering I need to move it and if so how?  I’ll order oil, new engine bracket bolts (10x1.50 30MM) and get my drive shaft shortened.   The rest is just bolt on  stuff ,and figure out mikuni throttle and fuel lines(current inlets face the back of the engine).  

 

8F950AB1-0D82-45E4-8B24-68D1136FF7F5.jpeg

Edited by d.p
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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:


I can tell you know a lot about bolts. “Pure” 

Jesus H.

You realize “stainless steel” is already an alloy, right? Does pure mean it’s never been fucked?

 

Common socket heads are 316 and 18-8. Gummy as hell. If those bolts back off at all, they’ll be in direct shear. We’ve been over this already. 17-4PH are exotic and stupid expensive, so it’s highly unlikely that is what they are.


I paid $100 for the entire set from Jose at one of the zcar websites and he seems to know his shit.  Ray which does he run??

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