My 1971 521

[d.p]

[d.p]

Fuck it I got the trans in but having an issue with the motor mounts. Longer one is on the drivers side and when that is seated the passenger side is like 2” off from where it needs to be. 
 

 

[d.p]

Drivers side. 
 

 

[d.p]

Can someone tell me if this a 521 pan? I bough it from wayno and not sure if it’s my problem or something else is.  Pretty disheartened right now too as I was so close to getting this fucker installed. 

[datzenmike]

Loosen ALL the bolts on engine brackets and the rubber isolaters. This is how I did the Z24 into my 620. With everything holding by a couple of threads fit it and tighten them down.

[d.p]

Man even with the motor mounts off the engine when I get the pass side close enough the pan hits the cross member.  
 

I’ll guess I’ll try again tomorrow. 

[datzenmike]

Are these the new MMts? Do you have the old ones around? the thinner ones?

[d.p]

Mounts can off my l16. Isolators are the ones that were in my truck.  As far as I know these should work. 

[datzenmike]

Try loosening to the max so you can force it into place.

[d.p]

Loosen the isolators as well? ? I took the mounts off completely and lowered the engine to the point where the passenger side looked like it need to be and at that point the pan was hitting the cross member.   Ill fuck with it again tomorrow, fingers crossed I can get it seated.  

[d.p]

Do the isolaters install the same direction?  Looking at this picture it looks like the driver side is opposite the passenger?  I have them installed in the same direction with the slanted side facing the floor.

 

[datzenmike]

I looked and yours seems correct. If you were to rotate the isolater 180 would the threaded stud be higher

[d.p]

No idea but the pass isolator never came off, I took the drivers side off because the but was stuck and I had to put it in a vice to get it off.  If I flip it and its higher than that would be no good, it needs to be lower to allow the pass side to seat.  Right now its nowhere close.  

Edited December 19, 2020 by d.p

[datzenmike]

 

Look at the one on the driver's side. If the threaded stud were higher or to the right in the picture it would lift and shift the engine to the right.

 

 

The engine now hinges on the driver's side and rotates in a circle around it. As it swings counter clockwise in the picture above it would be closer to fitting and if this side 's stud were also higher and to the left even better.

[d.p]

Yeah I think I need to move the isolators up. 

Will let you know. 

[wayno]

That is the right oil pan, if it was wrong(620 pan) it would hit the steering linkage not the cross member.

I mentioned it was a total bitch to get them 620 mounts to work in my 521 and I used them on both sides. 

I did the driver side first, then I did the passenger side, I removed the front bolt holding the motor mount onto the frame and loosened the back bolt just enough to let it twist, then I twisted the motor mount until the threaded shaft went thru the engine mount bracket, then I slowly dropped the engine while twisting the shit out of the new mount to try and line up the motor mount hole to the frame hole and I put the bolt in and then tightened everything down, I also mentioned that the motor mount did not last long, the passenger side motor mount separated from the metal piece holding it onto the frame.

 

The oil pan will hit the cross member if you have no motor mount to hold it up.

[mainer311]

I would take both isolators off, put the studs through the motor brackets, loosely put the nuts on, then lower the engine down enough to get the isolator bolts started, then carefully let the engine come down and see if it plunks into place.

 

It’s easier to get the studs in first then just let the flat bottoms of the isolators come down to the frame.

Edited December 20, 2020 by mainer311

[Charlie69]

59 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Look at the one on the driver's side. If the threaded stud were higher or to the right in the picture it would lift and shift the engine to the right.

 

 

The engine now hinges on the driver's side and rotates in a circle around it. As it swings counter clockwise in the picture above it would be closer to fitting and if this side 's stud were also higher and to the left even better.

In this picture the motor appears to be straigh up and down.  I always try to position my lifting chain so the engine hangs with a slant in the normal bolted in position so I have to do less fighting to get it to mount to the motor monts as possible.

[NC85ST]

I used a combination of L16 and L20 brackets and mounts, but it has been so long ago I don’t remember what combination. It’s still difficult, but never broke a mount. Ran L20b/5-speed for some 200,000 miles.

[d.p]

I was going to ask are l motors cocked towards the passenger side??

[Charlie69]

In my 66 520with the 80 720 chassis and the 76 620 L20B automatic transmission it leans to the passenger side of the truck.  This makes the carb mounting surface on the intake manifold level from passenger to driver side providing the truck is sitting level.

[mrbigtanker]

Please tell me you have the rubber isolators mounted to metal mounts as you lower in to truck. As Mike mentioned before keep everything loose, rubber islotaer to metal part mount and drop in and wiggle and jiggle it in place. Also 4 bolts and the center cross beam is out if that helps. 

 

I drop there engine low ,twist engine to one side, mount bolts and then lower engine hoist and do other side. You will say fuck multiple times but it will happen .

[d.p]

Ahh fuck this thing. I cannot get the motor lined up with the mounts.  If I seat the pass side then the drivers side is off and vice versa.  No amount of twisting or turning seems to blow.  
 

with the pass side mounted the engine is clocked to that side and to get the drivers side in it has to clock even more towards the pass side but no idea how to do that. 
 

the only thing I am meaning if to do is duck up my nice paint job.  Thanks

[d.p]

Drivers side. 

 

Edited December 20, 2020 by d.p

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

There are four holes in the motor mount bushings. Two of them are for bolts, the other two are for helping you line the mounts up with the crossmember. You stick a phillips screwdriver in those holes when lowering the motor into place and then all four bolt holes line up. Do this with all brackets and bushings mounted to the engine.

 

Have you ever installed an I beam or watched it happen? The steel workers use a long pick or a spud wrench that goes in the holes as the beam is being muscled into place. Apply the same logic to the motor mounts.

 

So the motor mount bushings are the ones that came out of the truck, right? The brackets look correct to me and the holes in the block look correct also (there were blocks with multiple bolt patterns cast into the sides). The only possible issue here (assuming all the parts are correct) is muscle. Jam that fucker in there.