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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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1 hour ago, yenpit said:

FYI that LYNX manifold (out of Australia?) was the only single carb manifold with the ports 1 & 4 vs 2 & 3 connected.................all others ie Cannon, Pierce, TWM etc etc were 1 & 2 vs 3 & 4.  I read that the LYNX had a better fuel distribution because of it........


I was thinking the same thing. It must have something to do with intake impulses and whatnot.

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2 hours ago, yenpit said:

FYI that LYNX manifold (out of Australia?) was the only single carb manifold with the ports 1 & 4 vs 2 & 3 connected.................all others ie Cannon, Pierce, TWM etc etc were 1 & 2 vs 3 & 4.  I read that the LYNX had a better fuel distribution because of it........

I'm not sure where they were originally manufactured but I did get mine from Australia.... had the same 32mm port as my head.... 

I honestly think it's the only proper intake for a single side draft....

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So Instead of an update of the datsun i have a story to tell about stupid drivers...

 

I went to go pick up my son at school yesterday and as i am waiting in traffic, stopped at a stop light, all of a sudden the lady in front of me puts it in reverse and starts backing up.... I thought she was going to stop but she got closer... so I layed on the horn solid till she hit... 

Unfortunately my Chevy is a rotten pos and when I held the brakes, so when she did hit, I didn't move backwards it was enough to blow out my front brake line.... Needless to say the pedal went to the floor and I barely had any brakes to get my kid and get home... this lady never stopped or acknowledge what she did, she just turned at the light and drove away as I got the red...... I did see a nice imprint of my front trailer hitch in her bumper so that was satisfying  .... 

I'm just glad it wasnt the datsun or my wifes Subaru.... 

 

Brake lines needed replacing anyhow, they were all one panic brake away from blowing out..... so I spent the day replacing all the lines from the master to the abs module and then back to the front calipers .... 

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6 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

 

Brake lines needed replacing anyhow, they were all one panic brake away from blowing out..... so I spent the day replacing all the lines from the master to the abs module and then back to the front calipers .... 

 

Do a better job of looking after yourself and kid, we want you around for a long time. Plan and build for the worse case scenario.

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You’re talking about the hard lines right? I blew out the rear on my ‘04 Tahoe a couple years ago and then had the front go out about 6 months ago. You might as well go ahead and replace them all just to be safe. Don’t follow my example. I was lucky nothing bad happened.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

Do a better job of looking after yourself and kid, we want you around for a long time. Plan and build for the worse case scenario.

Thanks for the kind words.... it one of those scenarios where I should just buy a new truck but this damn thing keeps running..... this was actually a good thing... no damage occurred, no one got hurt and it forced me to fix something I should have done sooner...

I tend to pay attention to the datsun more than the Chevy because I'd rather be driving that datsun.... the Chevy is just there for shitty weather and the road salt..... 

Edited by Crashtd420
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19 minutes ago, NC85ST said:

You’re talking about the hard lines right? I blew out the rear on my ‘04 Tahoe a couple years ago and then had the front go out about 6 months ago. You might as well go ahead and replace them all just to be safe. Don’t follow my example. I was lucky nothing bad happened.

Yes i now  have all new metal lines front and rear..  I did the rear lines with new calipers to pass inspection... trying to get the ebrake working snow balled into needing to replace more than just the pads.... so now the brake lines will definitely outlast the body of this poor truck.... 

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15 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Thanks for the kind words.... it one of those scenarios where I should just buy a new truck but this damn thing keeps running.....

It's almost never the engine that gives up, so "keeps running" is a thin excuse.

 

My grandfather wouldn't stop driving his 1980 Buick LeSabre (he lived in Iron River Wisconsin) until we actually broke it for him. My brother and I did it on purpose because the car was dangerous. Rust wreaks havoc on chassis components. We then bought him a new Ford Ranger.

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50 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

It's almost never the engine that gives up, so "keeps running" is a thin excuse.

 

My grandfather wouldn't stop driving his 1980 Buick LeSabre (he lived in Iron River Wisconsin) until we actually broke it for him. My brother and I did it on purpose because the car was dangerous. Rust wreaks havoc on chassis components. We then bought him a new Ford Ranger.

 

I know what your saying..... 

 

It's not as much of a death trap as I make it out to be.... the body has most of the rust which I have cut back and repaired and the paint is loosing it's clear coat..... The frame has alot of rust but is still structural,  i have checked, and I've keep up on alot of the other things, and all the body mounts are still solid...... these front brake lines were one of those things I should have done but never did..... this was probably the only part that I could say made my truck unsafe to drive..... 

I'll atleast finish this winter off with it and start looking... 

 

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

A very clean rust free mid 2000s Chevy truck out here in CA only costs around $4000. Add in $1500 freight and you could get something much nicer than what's available out there.

I've been thinking about something like that, problem is I would like to check it out myself .... I have a friend down in the Carolinas area, who says he sees good older rust free vehicles ... I might reach out to him to see what he can find...

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16 hours ago, wayno said:

Around here what that lady did is called a hit and run, I would have called the police and had her lose her licence to drive, there had to have been a witness around you at the time it happened, are you sure she didn't call the police and say you rear ended her and ran away?

The way it happened I doubt anyone but me was paying attention....

I dont keep my cellphone out or handy so by the time I realized she was going to drive off on me it was too late to catch the plate.... I kind of sat there dumbfounded..... 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I have a great hit and run story. Got to chase someone through the streets of San Francisco! Man, that was fun.

 

No more chasing for me.... 

I did once in san diego,  drunk driver hit my friend on my motorcycle.... 

Got the plate number and headed back to my buddy.... cops said there was nothing they could do because I couldnt identify who was driving..... 

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Waiting to hear how the truck runs after you get the balance tube installed. It sure made a difference on my Sprite.

 

Any advice?

Should I just go up on the jets to be safe?

Should it try it with just the balance tube first and then add the pcv or would any of that make a difference?

 

I assume I'll start from square one and attach my vacuum balancer to the carburetor first and then start working on the tune.....

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I wouldn't change anything. Likely it won't affect the overall tune at all. It will probably affect the idle though, which you can try tuning with the mixture screws before any jet changes are made.

 

The biggest difference it made on my Sprite was that it smoothed out the idle. Made it less lopey. I think I told you about how I did my balance tube, right? By drilling through the mounting flange behind the carb.

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14 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I wouldn't change anything. Likely it won't affect the overall tune at all. It will probably affect the idle though, which you can try tuning with the mixture screws before any jet changes are made.

 

The biggest difference it made on my Sprite was that it smoothed out the idle. Made it less lopey. I think I told you about how I did my balance tube, right? By drilling through the mounting flange behind the carb.

 

Yes I remember how you did yours... 

I guess once I'm done I'll just start it and see..... thanks...

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I got most of the pcv system mocked up. .. I'm happy with the tee being installed in the center, i have bent some extra fuel line to bring it down around under the carburetor..... 

 

20200208-103147.jpg

 

Looks pretty good in the engine bay, it's about the same height as the top of the carburetor so I'm happy with all that...

 

20200208-112539.jpg

 

Now I just need to connect the metal line to the block vent with the pcv valve inline... . And then obviously bolt everything back up....

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Didnt feel like messing with it any more so I decided to remove the heater box...

 

This is mine....

20200208-112800.jpg

 

Charlie hooked me up , the box assembly was from him...

20200208-112751.jpg

 

Fan and box are the same, heater core is slightly different but fits and will work...

 

Mine which has no valve, and a small leak...

20200208-112914.jpg

 

The one from Charlie,  which has a stuck valve... 

20200208-112908.jpg

 

I plan on swapping the fan assembly over since it works... but I'm not sure which heater core I'll use.... I know mine is quick fix, but I would prefer to have a working valve instead of what I rigged up in my engine bay for mine to work...

 

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2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Check that regularly. You'll get lots of condensation that the hot exhaust will evaporate leaving deposits that will clog the metal pipe.  

Would a rubber lines make a difference... or covering the metal line?

 

I didnt want to run a rubber line down because of the exhaust, I though with the metal line I could keep it closer to the intake..... 

 

I could also turn the tee to point towards the head and just connect a rubber line up top.... 

 

I might try the line up top to see how it looks.... underneath is proving to be a challenge to get over to the the block vent without making things look wierd....

 

 

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