barNLove!

[Draker]

I've used the one off 11th. You will need a lot of machine time for your first project.

[KoHeartsGPA]

Shit, i slapped mine together with hog rings until i can afford a pro, might be a while longer now since I want the 620 done by the time Rats with Dats comes ;)

[HOGIE]

Here's my shopping list for the bench seat reupholstering

 

Hog rings

Burlap

Carpet matting- (1)layer back rest, (2)layer bench

3/4"-1" foam- (back rest)

1.5" foam-(bench)

Black vinyl

Pale cream vinyl

3M spray adhesive

White piping

White thread

Cotton/foam back fabric

 

Not sure on the exact quantities of fabrics, foams and vinyl but I'm going to drop by upholstery supply store after work to get an idea what it's going to cost

 

 

 

I watched these two videos

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CamnznmHZDA

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bJ7Lq4awrgk

 

After watching those and talking to the one upholsterer lady I think I can do this. I'll ask more questions from the peeps at the upholstery supply shop and it on.

[Draker]

I have the rings and ring pliers.

[KoHeartsGPA]

I've got plenty rings too if you need more ;)

[HOGIE]

That's guys. I know what I'm not buying now.

 

Do you think the black stitching over white or white stitching over black will look better?

[Lockleaf]

White stitching POPS more but often turns brown or yellow easily if you plan to use the vehicle much.

 

Black stitching looks nice but doesn't pop the same way but stays looking great much more easily.

[KoHeartsGPA]

In other words...pick your poison ;)

[Draker]

Light gray is a better option. Pops but doesn't get dirty.

[hobospyder]

yeah i'm not one for a light colour interior, black with light grey or white stitching

[HOGIE]

 

 

Yup. Pulled the trigger and made an offer, it was excepted and it's on it's way.

 

Been anxiously watching the tracking information on this :crying:  and it just cleared customs, in NYC, yesterday :w00t:  Probably be here by Friday. Didn't take long at all. SMH  :no:

[thisismatt]

:thumbup:

[HOGIE]

This showed up today. Also the 8amp fuses

 

[thisismatt]

Looks mint

[Draker]

Wow.. nice.

[HOGIE]

To do as of now by priority:

 

Fuel/air:

I'm taking to fuel lines to work tomorrow the clean and flush the nasty old gas out of them. Yes that stinky shit was in the fuel lines too. I've been soaking the fuel sending unit with PB Blaster and the float arm is freeing up. Once the float arms moving freely I can make a gasket and reinstall the sending unit, and reinstall the tank and lines. I need rubber hose for filler neck, tank vent, and from the fuel filter to fuel pump, and I also still need to get a fuel filter. I need to get an air filter and clean up the air filter box too. I'm not touching the carb. Not yet anyways because it look perfectly clean to me. Put some clear gas in the tank. Just the little stuff and the fuel/air system will be perfect. Easy.

 

Electronic/ignition:

Reinstall fuse block with new fuses. Replace spark plugs and distributor cap(?). Truck came to me with brand new spark plugs. Check points gab and dwell. It already started and so I'm not concerned with changing much.

 

Start and observe:

Once all that stuffs back in place it will be time to start the truck again. This time I'll be able to run it long enough for the motor to warm up and I can see if the thermostat is working and look for coolant leaks. Possibly tube carb if needed

 

Brakes and clutch:

This could really go at the top but.... Finish the never-ending-procrastinated-brake-job. I figured out the problem with the rubbing drum. The older drum had a higher raised lip just outside the hub-drum mounting surface than the new 521 parts I got. Fits now. It's warming up so now I have no excuse about the garage being to cold. R&R brake and clutch masters. Replace clutch slave rubber hose. I might have to use the Blue Hands brake/clutch master rods. I need to research for information about that.

 

Cooling:

I'll probably do a coolant flush because although the coolant look like it's brand new I have no idea how old it is and if old probably not doing much good. This will be done by hot ranking both the radiator and heater core, back flushing the cores and reinstalling with need rubber lines.

 

Tires and wheels:

I need tires. Not sure what exactly but probably 195x75x14. White wall? It sitting on stock wheels with stock caps. I want to clean up the wheels. I'm not sure if I'll have them powder coated or just rattle can them. Steel wool the caps after a little massage and rock them.

 

Reupholster bench seat:

This will happen probably sooner than the wheels and tires but only because as I've said before I'm doing the sewing by myself. This makes materials my only cost. ~$50-60 is what I've calculated. In the overall priority of a build redoing the interior is a much lower priority than tires but the seat was in such bad condition it needed to be addressed before the truck was driven. Only because it will be cheaper the bench will likely be done before I get tires

 

Drive train:

I still need to drain and fill both rear end and transmission. Lube and inspect shift linkage. For some reason I feel like this is going to be a headache. Maybe not. The PO said he parked the truck because he couldn't get it into reverse and he got tired of pushing the truck every time he parked it.

 

Registration, appraisal(?), insurance, drive

[HOGIE]

Looks mint

Yup

 

Wow.. nice.

Yup

[wayno]

The shift linkage lube could be so dry that the lever doesn't want to move to that position anymore, you need to lube every joint, reverse is towards the dash, then pull out towards the passenger side, then go even farther towards the dash and down.

These column shift transmissions are weird, it has two levers on the side of the transmission cover, one of them is like neutral on a floor shift, the arm moves the selector to the position you want for the gear selected(forwards/backwards), moving the shift lever up and down moves the other lever which puts into the gear you selected, that is how they made it a 4spd/rev with only 2 levers/shift arms, to me it is really strange, but it works.

[320 Newb]

The shift linkage lube could be so dry that the lever doesn't want to move to that position anymore, you need to lube every joint, reverse is towards the dash, then pull out towards the passenger side, then go even farther towards the dash and down.

These column shift transmissions are weird, it has two levers on the side of the transmission cover, one of them is like neutral on a floor shift, the arm moves the selector to the position you want for the gear selected(forwards/backwards), moving the shift lever up and down moves the other lever which puts into the gear you selected, that is how they made it a 4spd/rev with only 2 levers/shift arms, to me it is really strange, but it works.

 

Lubing the shift linkage is on my to do list. Any tips, tricks or pics of the joints I should focus on? I've got the stock 4 on the column.

[wayno]

Lubing the shift linkage is on my to do list. Any tips, tricks or pics of the joints I should focus on? I've got the stock 4 on the column.

 

Just spray anything that moves, fact is that since it got cold, my 320 shift lever is very stiff also.

The lockout for reverse is in the column lever/arm, it kinda slides sideways/in and out of the column and there is a spring in there that is supposed to hold it in, the lever needs to be lubed where it slides in and out on itself, there are 2 screws on the top and the bottom of the lever that hold it on, them screws are in oblong holes.

This lever in the photo below is messed up, whoever had it in the past appeared to be having trouble with it, so in the pulled out position they took a chisel and gave it a wack so it would stay in that position, they never had to pull it out again, you can also see the spring.

In this photo you can see the finger that is supposed to catch on the spring mount piece of metal to keep the lever from continuing down to the reverse position.

The column shift column shaft itself moves away and towards the driver, think of this as the neutral in a floor shift, this action moves one of the arms(gear selector) on the side of the transmission, the moving up and down of the lever moves the other arm which engages it into gear, so in the photo below you can see the lever in the pulled towards you position(3rd and 4th gear position).

Now you can see it in the reverse position, see the space created between the screw and the mount arm, this lever only has one screw head, most have 2 screws.

Now see how I twisted the mount around 180 degrees in the photo below, this joint was hard to twist, and it is likely 80 percent of the issue with smooth shifting, this has to have the shit lubed out of it.

If you could take the column off, you could even take it apart by unscrewing it like I did here to show you, this threaded area is what needs the lube.

The rest of the joints need lubed also in the photos below including the arms on the transmission, but that upper joint on the column is likely the big one.

 

[HOGIE]

Thanks for posting everything above Wayno. Your like an encyclopedia of Datsun knowledge.

[wayno]

Thanks for posting everything above Wayno. Your like an encyclopedia of Datsun knowledge.

 

Your Welcome :)

 

The fact is that I didn't actually know how that came apart till today either, I just wanted to kinda give you an idea of how it was made and where to lube it.

I started trying to free that one up and when I turned it the 180 degrees to take the photo it made a slight gap, so I went around another time and the gap was larger, that is when I realized it was threaded, so I turned it off and took a photo for you, that is the first time I ever seen them threads also, so now I know more too, by the way, that lever moves easy now, and it was tough to un-thread it off there.

To get to that threaded part you would have to take the column shifter mechanism off, so what I would do is put the lever in reverse like I have done in the photo below, and keep squirting the shit out of the shaft where I am pointing the squirter tip, and maybe in the crack just in front of that, do it over and over till it loosens up, move the lever all around into every gear, keep adding more lube till it moves freely, also squirt the lever itself till the spring pushes the lever arm in automatically.

[wayno]

Here are a couple more photos of where you might try spraying the PB Blaster or whatever lube you are using.

The other narrow gap I mentioned.

And you can try from the back side.

[320 Newb]

Is PB blaster what you recommend for a lube? Or should I clean it with something like PB Blaster or WD40 then come back in and lube it with something else?

 

Also the spring in the back of my shift lever is broken and I haven't found a replacement. I found a crappy, not really in the ballpark spring, but I couldn't get it back together while it was spring loaded. 

[wayno]

Is PB blaster what you recommend for a lube? Or should I clean it with something like PB Blaster or WD40 then come back in and lube it with something else?

 

Also the spring in the back of my shift lever is broken and I haven't found a replacement. I found a crappy, not really in the ballpark spring, but I couldn't get it back together while it was spring loaded. 

 

I just use what I have to get it loose, grease would likely be the best but you would have to pull it completely out of the truck to get it apart, clean it, and then put it back together, you likely would have to pull the steering column/gear to do that, that's a lot of work(days) just to loosen up the shift lever.

Maybe when it is out one could drill the section where the threads are and install a zerk(grease) fitting, and then it could be greased every so many years or when it starts to stiffen up.