Draker Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 I mean.. it's ugly. But was there any chunks? Rust in the tank? I think it's got a solid chance at survival. Doesn't look too bad at all. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Are you going to coat the inside after stripping it? 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 shit if he is i might have to make a trip down there with a couple tanks. probably cheaper than the shop i found 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 This is how nice the 520 fuel tanks I just cleaned turned out I mean.. it's ugly. But was there any chunks? Rust in the tank? I think it's got a solid chance at survival. Doesn't look too bad at all. Are you going to coat the inside after stripping it? The tank above looked just like this one and smelled just as bad. It's gonna turn out great. I did the same treatment to the tanks out of my 620 and 521 without a liner. Just keep fresh Premium in them. I'll probably just run no-ethanol in this one because it may sit for periods of time. This convo does make me curious of how the fuel in my 620 is looking. Should just pull the plug on that tank 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 If you look in the tank and there is no rust, don't fix what isn't broke, if it has a fine rust then I would use tank liner on it, if it has flakes then it should be dipped. Don't mess around with that sender too much, up top it has a top with very fine wires inside, don't touch them wires inside. I would test it before doing anything, even before taking that top off, just connect the wires, ground the housing to be sure, then turn the ignition on and move the float arm up and down if it will move, if the gauge works, just clean up the outside of the sender and leave the rest alone, you are not likely going to find a replacement. If it will not move, then you will need to use PB blaster on the outside where it pivots, if that doesn't loosen it up then take the top off and use a very small amount of PB blaster in the bottom of the housing, then use electric parts cleaner to get that crap out of there once the arm moves freely. Take the top off This is what it looks like inside, don't touch anything in there unless it doesn't work, and before you decide it doesn't work, tap on the dash while the fuel arm is in the full position, maybe the needle will move, mine sticks all the time. 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 shit if he is i might have to make a trip down there with a couple tanks. probably cheaper than the shop i found $130 per tank and you get to come see me 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 The tank above looked just like this one and smelled just as bad. It's gonna turn out great. I did the same treatment to the tanks out of my 620 and 521 without a liner. Just keep fresh Premium in them. I'll probably just run no-ethanol in this one because it may sit for periods of time. This convo does make me curious of how the fuel in my 620 is looking. Should just pull the plug on that tank As long as your cycling fresh fuel thru it all the time, you are fine, the problems occur when the fuel sets to long and separates, then it rusts if it is in there long enough, I run regular pump gas in my 521 work truck, never had an issue with the main tank, only the extra tank I had that fuel sat in for long periods of time, that one did rust, I removed that one and scrapped it. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 The float arm doesn't move. It will get the PB treatments. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 The float arm doesn't move. It will get the PB treatments. Then you should remove the top and squirt just a little in the bottom of the cavity, mine in the photo didn't move well either, I just did what I suggested to it and now it moves fine, but I have not tested it either, I used electric parts cleaner to remove the PB blaster, I didn't throw this one away when I removed it, I had a replacement for the NL320 that worked, but I have had access to several 320s over the years for parts, they are all gone now, at least the ones I knew about. 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 $130 per tank and you get to come see me with or without coating though? 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 with or without coating though?We clean metal. When you get it back it's bare steel. We do apply a rust inhibitor wash but it's not a liner or primer. It looks like bare steel and only keeps it from rusting while kept dry. Once scuffed, wiped and sprayed with paint or primer it's gone. Same thing on the inside of the tank. Once you fill it with gas it washes away and keeping fresh gas in there is your best bet for rerust protection. If you want to put a liner in there that's your call. The parts stores sell a two part mix that you mix up and pour in the tank, swirl around and let set up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 I'd probably coat it. Only because they are galvanized originally.. I think? But you guys do this shit for a living.. I'm sure you know wtf is up when dipping tanks. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 They are galvanized originally. The dipping process removes it. With regards to knowing wtf, I have done what I was told to do with my dipped tank and that's the same thing I tell the customers and have now told you guys. My 620 tank was dipped prior to my working at the dip shop. Never had any issues. And have never had any issues with the 521 tank. At the sister restoration shop they do the same thing to tanks they put in the 1/4 million cars they build. 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 I think I'll stick with the shop near my house, they'll coat the inside for me as well for 150. Would also have to add gas money to get down there and probably would have to make a return trip (I'm guessing) my non dailies tend to sit for a while before I remember to drive them during the winter 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Yah that would be a serious trip. I thought you just wanted to kick it. I haven't ever put much thought into doing a liner/coating. That seems like a good price 2 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 I would love to get out of the regular grind but money is a short stick for me right now. I did a bunch of over extending this last year. Looking forward to some breaks this year with the kidlet though 2 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 No but it'd be a lot cooler if it did 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 That's sick ninja. Now delete your post so no one else can see it 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 That's sick ninja. Now delete your post so no one else can see itwhy, did you make an offer? :P Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 That 320 E1 engine fuel pump is a hard one to find. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 I just bought a J13 diaphragm for my backup J13 fuel pump and I've been talking to vindats about getting a diaphragm and valves for my E1 pump so I do t know if I need another but I do want it. I made an offer Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 why, did you make an offer? :P Yup. Pulled the trigger and made an offer, it was excepted and it's on it's way. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 That primer lever makes it real easy to prime the system, and it doesn't take very long at all, seemed like I only pulled that lever a few times(maybe 10) and I had fuel in the carb, I couldn't believe it, they should have that on every fuel pump. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 Yup. Pulled the trigger and made an offer, it was excepted and it's on it's way.Nice, I've bought from him and he usually will negotiate considerably less than asking price. Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 That primer lever makes it real easy to prime the system, and it doesn't take very long at all, seemed like I only pulled that lever a few times(maybe 10) and I had fuel in the carb, I couldn't believe it, they should have that on every fuel pump. Very manually startable engines. Turn the key to ON, hand prime the fuel to the carb, hand crank it over to start. I'm gonna try that some time 2 Quote Link to comment
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