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I'll be at home almost all day. Let me know when you want to come over.

 

I have a oils filter and oil to do an oil change.

Wheel cylinders, adjusters, brake shoes, hardware kit and drums to do front brakes

Wheels cylinder rebuild kit and adjusters to work on rear brakes.

Enough brake fluid to flush and fill the brake system.

New plug wires.

Rear taillight lens to install in place of badly cracked one

 

I need to get fuses to replace the old nasty ones. Im assuming the ones in there now are the correct amperage, I haven't found anything online yet to learn the correct fuse setup. I'm going to pull the fuse block tonight, right now, and soak in vinegar.

 

EDIT: also still need to clean and rebuild the fuel pump, the best I can, and drain fuel tank to check for chunks and blow out fuel lines

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Well tonight I was able to get the fuse block removed. It took PB, patience and a little tappa-tapping to get all the screws out but no broken screws. Fuse block is in vinegar for the night.

 

Next I changed the oil. Nothing big here besides it's the first oil on my new truck. Not sure how much oil it takes yet. Put two quarts in and it was just above LOW line. I'll turn it over a few times then check and add oil.

 

Next I went back to the fuel pump. Took the top half off again and dropped it in some fresh fuel to soak. After a few I pulled it out to see if it had broken down the shellac. Not so much. I took a pocket screw driver and scrapped out about half a tables spoon of hard chunks of that shit then stuck it back in the fuel to loosen up the nasty. One of the valves dropped out of the housing and there is what looks like a very small gasket where the valve seats. I'm assuming if that gasket gets fucked up I'm screwed so I'm not touching it.

 

Tomorrow taillight lens replace, drain maybe drop fuel tank and front brake rebuild.

 

I think I need to replace the brake and clutch masters. They both look pretty shitty inside the reservoir cups, might just go dual one the brake

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Just took a shot of the fuse unit & cover on 'Mighty Mouse'. I believe this is all original except the two in-line fuses that I've added just in front of the fuse unit. Hope this helps.

 

Oops !! forgot to stick the photo on this post.

 

Steve

 

SteveFuse%20Box%20320%20Pickup_zpsrfvvlro4.jp

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I cleaned the fuel pump then soaked it in fuel, cleaned it and soaked it again, then Craig cleaned it and cleaned some more. I made a gasket for the cap, cleaned the screen, cleans the valves and bolted them down with retainer, put it all back together and it tried to work, half a pump. When the pump arm was pushed in the shaft was getting stuck down. Lubed it up with PB. We did a test pump out of a glass of fuel and it works. E1 fuel pump cleanup-rebuild complete!

 

I don't know if it is pumping at it's designed volume but well see if it keeps up with the carburetor once I've had a chance clean te rest of the fuel system.

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As I recall you can use the 521 clutch master in the 320, but you have to use the 320 brake master pedal rod in the 521 master as the 521 pedal rod is too long.

It's either go 521 master or 620 dual with a proportioning valve. Unsure at this point

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It's either go 521 master or 620 dual with a proportioning valve. Unsure at this point

 

I was talking about the clutch master.

I believe I used the brake master from a 1979 620 that has front disc, rear drum brakes as I put disc brakes on the front of my U320, I also used a 521 clutch master.

DSCN2734.JPG

I had to oval the holes on the brake master as the holes were wider apart than the stock 320 brake master, I did this to leave the U320 firewall stock so everything is reversible, I have done nothing to the truck that is not totally reversible.

DSCN2736.JPG

And here is the pedal connection, I made this pushrod from an old 521 pushrod, it is adjustable

DSCN2738.JPG

If you are leaving drum brakes all around, you need to do your homework, most dual masters are made for disc front, drum back brakes, or disc all around brakes, but the 620 might have had a dual master for drum brakes all around, you need to figure out this stuff before you buy parts, the 521 brake master will likely almost bolt into your 320 except for the push rod, and it is made for drum brakes all around, I use the Centric brand as they are new and not rebuilt, I have never had one fail to work so far.

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I was talking about the clutch master.

I believe I used the brake master from a 1979 620 that has front disc, rear drum brakes as I put disc brakes on the front of my U320, I also used a 521 clutch master.

 

If you are leaving drum brakes all around, you need to do your homework, most dual masters are made for disc front, drum back brakes, or disc all around brakes, but the 620 might have had a dual master for drum brakes all around, you need to figure out this stuff before you buy parts, the 521 brake master will likely almost bolt into your 320 except for the push rod, and it is made for drum brakes all around, I use the Centric brand as they are new and not rebuilt, I have never had one fail to work so far.

I see about your previous post. I know that mklotz70 make the 320 and 521 rods, I'll have to look at the bluehands website for more information about those.

 

I'm mostly happy with the single reservoir brake master in my 521. That should be fine for this truck. I don't really want to change to much. I know that if you run a dual master it needs a proportioning valve, but yes I need to do my research.

 

 

About brakes we also go the front right brakes all redone, with stock components. First had to remove the screw that hold the drum to hub. Those are a pain. Then new wheel cylinder, cleaned and never-seized the adjust, shoes hardware and drum looked to have limited use ( can't say new), scuffed the drum with emery cloth and reinstalled everything. The rubber line was bad. Removed it and I'm going to have new ones made at local hydrolic supply store. Front LH, RH and rear

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I see about your previous post. I know that mklotz70 make the 320 and 521 rods, I'll have to look at the bluehands website for more information about those.

 

I'm mostly happy with the single reservoir brake master in my 521. That should be fine for this truck. I don't really want to change to much. I know that if you run a dual master it needs a proportioning valve, but yes I need to do my research.

 

 

About brakes we also go the front right brakes all redone, with stock components. First had to remove the screw that hold the drum to hub. Those are a pain. Then new wheel cylinder, cleaned and never-seized the adjust, shoes hardware and drum looked to have limited use ( can't say new), scuffed the drum with emery cloth and reinstalled everything. The rubber line was bad. Removed it and I'm going to have new ones made at local hydrolic supply store. Front LH, RH and rear

 

I believe I used the old 320 clutch push rod in my 521 clutch master, they are interchangeable as I recall, but you have to take a clip out to remove them and install the rod and put the clip back in.

I have not done any of this 320 type of brake stuff in a few years now, I might not recall everything correctly.

You might be able to use a 521 brake hose, you should check it out, likely cheaper.

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I'd be down to stop by again, but I'll be out of town the next two weekends.

I'm not going to have large chunks of time this weekend. I used those up last weekend. Text me when you would want to come by and I'll let you know what's up. And thanks for coming to lend a hand wrenching the last couple weekends.

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Remember, you likely will have to use the 320 pedal push rod, as the 521 push rod is too long.

Yup. I remembered that from your previous post.

 

 

Haven't even pulled the old master or broke the new out of the box. I need to get the wheel cylinders, adjusters, shoes, drums and rubber all cleaned up first before I need to worry about installing master. So the question might be, why did I buy it already?

 

Answer. Bored online shopping.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Actually I might pull the master and swap that rod so it's ready

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Yup. I remembered that from your previous post.

 

 

Haven't even pulled the old master or broke the new out of the box. I need to get the wheel cylinders, adjusters, shoes, drums and rubber all cleaned up first before I need to worry about installing master. So the question might be, why did I buy it already?

 

Answer. Bored online shopping.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Actually I might pull the master and swap that rod so it's ready

 

Maybe the master you have is good, I still have the original masters in my 1963 L320.

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Maybe the master you have is good, I still have the original masters in my 1963 L320.

That cool you have og's. It would be awesome if the original could be saved, I did get the fuel pump to work so.....

 

 

 

But unfortunately this is what the masters looks like. Bad pic but you get the point. Looking at it now the brake master (left) doesn't look that bad. Still wet with fluid down in the very cracks. The clutch master (right) on the other hand, not looking promising

 

image_zpsq3wn5csr.jpg

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