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I like the pedal actuated switch also, and you don't need to make the extra bracket like Wayno has. Just screw the new switch into the hole currently occupied by the pedal stop and use the switch as the new stop.

 

If you want to get a hydraulic switch instead, a VW bug switch will work and can be found anywhere.

VW is metric and the Datsuns were ASE.

 

The 520 the 521 both had those hydraulic switches.  Any good parts house should be able to get you one.  It really is not a dinosaur bone you are looking for!!!  LOL

 

Great job on the seats.

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I snagged a 60 or 61 Ford hydraulic brake switch for our 320 right after I bought it & it fit right in and worked fine. 

 

Don't know what model of Ford it was for or if it was for car or truck. The 'Real' parts counter man just looked at my old switch and told one of the counter-kids "go back and get yada-yada switch for a 61 Ford off the shelf" and it looked exactly like the grimy one I'd carried in. I may still have the box with the old switch in it in my spares. I throw virtually nothing away; keep for future reference. I'll try to look a bit tomorrow & see if I can find anything.

 

Cleaned up the underhood plumbing and changed to manual switch when I upgraded the system to dual-circuit & front disc.

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VW is metric and the Datsuns were ASE.

 

The 520 the 521 both had those hydraulic switches.  Any good parts house should be able to get you one.  It really is not a dinosaur bone you are looking for!!!  LOL

 

Great job on the seats.

They were metric, yes, but the tapered threads on such items were pretty universally BSPT or NPT. The applications listing for the VW switch includes MG, Volvo, VW, Porsche, Jaguar. I know that MG and Datsun used BSPT in that era so it stands to reason that VW also used BSPT.

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I snagged a 60 or 61 Ford hydraulic brake switch for our 320 right after I bought it & it fit right in and worked fine. 

 

Don't know what model of Ford it was for or if it was for car or truck. The 'Real' parts counter man just looked at my old switch and told one of the counter-kids "go back and get yada-yada switch for a 61 Ford off the shelf" and it looked exactly like the grimy one I'd carried in. I may still have the box with the old switch in it in my spares. I throw virtually nothing away; keep for future reference. I'll try to look a bit tomorrow & see if I can find anything.

 

Cleaned up the underhood plumbing and changed to manual switch when I upgraded the system to dual-circuit & front disc.

 

I believe it was your advice that I followed, and looked up a 60s ford on Amazon and found one that worked perfectly fine in my L320.  Here it is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012OZO1I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I only paid $8 in January, so they must've raised the price for some reason.  You might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.  

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This is the box for the new switch and the old switch that I used on the original plumbing system. The early 60's Ford switch that I mentioned. The box labeling may help u come up with a replacement.

 

Brake_Light_Switch.jpg

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This is the box for the new switch and the old switch that I used on the original plumbing system. The early 60's Ford switch that I mentioned. The box labeling may help u come up with a replacement.

 

Brake_Light_Switch.jpg

Thanks man.

 

Took that part number down to Advanced Auto Parts and they had the same one. Installed, cleaned up wires to brake switch and headlight switch. Both work now. Took it for a drive and filled it with Super 92 ethanol. Stumbles a little when accelerating. Going to switch out old plug wires for new and check timing. Needs a bath and buff. And lube

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While at work I removed the side mirrors and found a fuel leak. It's getting a bath before I leave.

 

You'll mess those vintage mirrors up running em on E-Gas.

 

See, they already developed a leak !!

 

Just couldn't resist it.

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I would never put ethanol gas in any of my 320s, that shit is hard on metal tanks and metal carburators.

He did have his tank dipped, but I don't remember if it was lined with a tank liner, if it was then it will likely will be alright for a while, if not well eventually it's  going to ruin the tank unless it is a daily driver, and I really mean daily driver, as if that shit gas separates in the tank then it is over with, I had to pull the spare tank out of my work truck because of rust on the inside of the tank, it didn't leak but it ruined any fresh gas I put in it.

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The only thing that we ever put E-Gas in is my wife's two year old Ford Escape and that is only when we're somewhere that we can't find non-E or it's not sold.

 

The Escape is designed to run on E but I won't use it. 

 

Damn sure never use it in my older personal vehicles (my late-model personal car is a 89 Ford Festiva) or small implement engines (lawn mowers, weed-eaters, etc.). Heard too many horror stories, and some of them from people who work on them.

 

I haven't used enuf to know firsthand, but I've read that E-gas results in lower mpg that can work out to be a wash when bounced against the difference in price.

 

On top of that, I suspect that it's a boondoggle that drives up the price of foods up and down the production chain.

 

Call me a nut-case.

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I've been puttin ethanol gasoline in my 320 the past 6 years (around 25k miles), and never had any issues. I don't pay attention to what's at the pump, but 10% ethanol is the standard here I think.

Same goes for my '74 BMW, around 12 years as a daily driver. Not sure what the big deal is, maybe ethanol can be used as a scapegoat for other issues.

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The only thing that we ever put E-Gas in is my wife's two year old Ford Escape and that is only when we're somewhere that we can't find non-E or it's not sold.

 

The Escape is designed to run on E but I won't use it. 

 

Damn sure never use it in my older personal vehicles (my late-model personal car is a 89 Ford Festiva) or small implement engines (lawn mowers, weed-eaters, etc.). Heard too many horror stories, and some of them from people who work on them.

 

I haven't used enuf to know firsthand, but I've read that E-gas results in lower mpg that can work out to be a wash when bounced against the difference in price.

 

On top of that, I suspect that it's a boondoggle that drives up the price of foods up and down the production chain.

 

Call me a nut-case.

It's true, if there is 11 percent ethanol in the gas, you get 11 percent less gas mileage, there was a study that CA didn't like about this subject, they were forced/sued into doing the study because they already knew the results.

In the end it is all about money, 11 percent less gas mileage means they get that  much more in gas tax as you have to buy that much more gas.

I burn it in my work truck, but I drive it 4+ days a week, it always has fresh gas in the tank, but my 320 and 520ute sit around a lot in the driveway, so I only buy non-ethanol fuel for them vehicles, it's easier than trying to find another tank, especially an NL320 tank. 

If you drive your old vehicle with a metal fuel tank as a daily driver, you should not have any issues, but the E-gas cannot just sit in a metal tank for a long time, especially a quarter tank of that crap, it will spoil and separate.

They had to change all the tanks at the gas stations to plastic tanks, the metal tanks would not last with these new fuels, they knew this back in the 70s when ethanol fuel first came out.

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My truck sits all winter to keep it off the salty roads, with the same fuel sitting in the tank (fuel stabilizer in it though).

 

I don't know man, but it doesn't give me any problems. If my tank ever leaks, then I'll use the por15 tank sealer kit in it, like I did to the BMW. It's epoxy that thoroughly coats the inside. I doubt the ethanol is what caused my BMW tank to leak, and more of it just being an old car.

 

I have wondered about the ethanol resulting in more risk of vapor lock, as some people claim (and others refute). My early 90s cub cadet garden tractor is all stock and vapor locks after an hour or two of hard work unless I take the engine covers off. That doesn't seem like it should happen with a stock engine.

My 320 does vapor lock just a tiny bit on super hot days when I try to restart it. It just takes a little more cranking to get goin, not too big of a deal.

 

I don't care too much about the politics or economics of it, not gonna inconvenience myself to get non ethanol gasoline. I just want to drive the damn thing wherever and not worry about filling up.

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I really do appreciate the concern regarding my fuel choice. It was the first drive and it was the best gas they had. I will be running through it very quickly.

 

About the fuel subject, I found two fuel leaks today in addition to the one behind the mirror. First was where the two hard lines come together. Just tightened the fittings and we're good. Second was a leak coming from my 'still in original packaging NOS E1 fuel pump w/ primer arm' that I bought off ebay shipped from Singapore. Fuck. The diagram is cracked. Leaks out the bottom. Steady flow as the motor runs or when pumping the primer.

 

Funny as it is the one I rebuilt, the one that was on the engine full of nasty varnish, is back on the engine and working just fine. Took it for a drive. Float stays full. No leaks.

 

Now on to figuring out why the wipers don't cycle. And I need to either get fancy with restoring the front passenger turnsignal housing or find replacement.

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