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HAS ANYONE USED LUCAS GEAR OIL ?

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Saw some lucas gear oil at the auto parts store n was close to purchasing some..just wondering if anybody has used it in the past? And wut you think about it?..

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They seem to promote oils to gullible people who believe that all oils do not adequately do their job. If it's the correct oil for what you need and cheaper, get it.

 

All certified oils have to pass a minimum standard of performance. Some more expensive oils may have more additives but they do the same job.  If you have the correct oil for your engine/trans/diff that's all you need.

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Lucas is good stuff. Worth the price? That's up to the consumer.

 

 

I strongly trust in their power steering fluid/conditioner.

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Yah i picked up valvoline 80w-90 for my diff.. been using valvoline products on my 620 since ive owned it n seems to work just fine so yah..i might try lucas in a year or so for the diff.. and i wanna give castrol gtx a try for my engine..the api is different then valvoline.. they have api sn,sm,sl and some other ones.. and on davidcmurphys website it shows that the oil should be se,or sd.. n couldnt find any at the auto parts so yah..

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That is because every letter after the S is supposed to represent an "update" on the previous spec.  They moved on from SE spec years ago.  Many of us use Delo or Rotella 15w-40 light diesel oil in our datsun engines.  It still has high levels of zinc in it, which these motors were designed to use.  The fact that it is for diesels doesn't mean it's bad for our engines.   It's actually heavier duty stuff than standard motor oil.  And if you're engine is tired the 15w-40 might help cushion its guts better. 

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That is because every letter after the S is supposed to represent an "update" on the previous spec. They moved on from SE spec years ago. Many of us use Delo or Rotella 15w-40 light diesel oil in our datsun engines. It still has high levels of zinc in it, which these motors were designed to use. The fact that it is for diesels doesn't mean it's bad for our engines. It's actually heavier duty stuff than standard motor oil. And if you're engine is tired the 15w-40 might help cushion its guts better.

cool

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I have used Lucas at various times and felt like it helped. Some consider it snake oil.

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In the 60s/70s there was this 'shit' called STP. It was an additive and thicker than honey and was supposed to help protect engines bu thickening the oil. Maybe it did as the oils back then weren't as good as today's oils. The trouble was it didn't drain out easily on oil changes.

 

If that added Lucas stuff is like that I wouldn't bother.

 

 

I have used Lucas at various times and felt like it helped. Some consider it snake oil.

 

...and that's why I mostly don't like Lucas. They claim that it ads better and more protection than the oil you are using which to me is just a scare tactic.

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The tranny was dieing in this acura i had, changed the oil and put thick ass lucas 75-140 in there and it became quiet and shifted properly! Way too thick cold but it was a good tranny fix for a 200 dollar car. Took 2 hours to drain a few liters into the trans though, that shit is like molasses

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The trick to draining any thick oil is doing so when the oil is hot.

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Yah i picked up valvoline 80w-90 for my diff.. been using valvoline products on my 620 since ive owned it n seems to work just fine so yah..i might try lucas in a year or so for the diff.. and i wanna give castrol gtx a try for my engine..the api is different then valvoline.. they have api sn,sm,sl and some other ones.. and on davidcmurphys website it shows that the oil should be se,or sd.. n couldnt find any at the auto parts so yah..

I used to run castrol gtx 20/50 in all my datsuns but  Rebello Racing engines pointed out to me that all oils are reducing there zinc content and are no longer as good as they used to be for our motors

have been running valvoline V1 Racing oil now which still has a higher zinc content but the diesel oils have the higher zinc content as well 

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I used to run castrol gtx 20/50 in all my datsuns but  Rebello Racing engines pointed out to me that all oils are reducing there zinc content and are no longer as good as they used to be for our motors

have been running valvoline V1 Racing oil now which still has a higher zinc content but the diesel oils have the higher zinc content as well 

What about zinc destroying catalytic converters overtime? How about the zinc replacement additive? I used to use the delo on my 620 but stopped and I now use a zinc replacement

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Does your '67 have a cat? Thought only California might. Either way if you have a cat it was designed to run on oil available in the mid '70s. Cats are very different today, only the very latest are harmed by zinc.

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1967 autos do not have catalytic converters! Any thing named "Lucas" except their lighting systems is OK!

 

My 1964 Corvair had a 3 and 1/2 quart oil. I changed its oil with 3 quarts of regular multiviscosity oil plus a pint of STP. Worked like a charm. P.S. if you overfilled a Corvair, it flooded the distributor and wouldn't run properly, overpressured the oil system and blew the rear oil pan gasket holding the oil temperature sensor which blew the seal and sprayed oil all over your rear end. There were aftermarket oil pans [finnedcast aluminum by the way] which increased oil capacity to 4 quarts and deleted the drilled hole for the oil temperature sensor. You just clipped on a VW temperature sensor to the middle cylinder head finned heads and all was well.

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Lucas doesn't make gear oil they sell it. Same with most sellers. Find out where they get their oil, I think you'll find that they (or most) are refined by the same company. (like Mobil) All they do is add a colorant and put a different label on the bottle. Same with cheap spark plugs and fram oil filters.

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I used Castrol GTX for many years. I've started using Rotella in all my older autos lately. When I put the 1200cc E1 together last year I coated all the internal moving parts with a ZDDP (basically zinc & phosphorus) addative. I'd have to look, but I believe it was Rislone brand. I believe the Rotella has some ZDDP content. To a great extent the zinc & phosphorus content has been pretty much removed from most motor oils over a period of time by the climate alarmist regulators. My dad was a Chevy dealer mechanic through the 1950's and he swore by EOS addative (EOS = 'Engine Oil Supplement' and is GM's ZDDP addative) use on rebuilds. I believe the area where this may be most critical especially on startup of older engine startup after rebuild is on the lifter/cam lobe interface as they don't have roller lifter or rocker surfaces. I also use a tad of Marvel Mystery Oil in fuel about every other fill up.

 

BTW this is all in gasoline engines. I've never owned a diesel.

 

Disclaimer: Just what I feel good doing for now. Subject to change without notification after reasonable study, of course.

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I know people who swear by Seafoam. Have no Idea what it is, but see it on the counter in some of the parts houses. 

 

Andy Granatelli was the big STP guy. He ran a team at Indy 500 for years. As I recall, that crap was so thick you could almost slice it with a knife and make a sandwich with a couple of pieces of bread. 

 

Probably tasted like crap, but I'd bet it'd keep you regular !!

 

Steve

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Seafoam .... snake oil. It's only as good as you think it is. 

 

STP.... bet dollars to doughnuts they didn't run it in their INDY cars!!!!!!!!!!

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I use Valvoline VR-1 in my Datsuns, since a case of oil looked liked this:

 

ValOil.jpg

 

Make sure you use a GL-4 oil in the transmission, GL-5 is OK in the rear axle.

 

Old engines need old types of oil.

 

As far a Lucas electrics are concerned, I have heard owners of British cars refer to "Lucas" as the "prince of darkness".

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Lucas refrigerators.... It's why the British drink warm beer

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Brad penn or joe gibbs 15-50 or 20-50 in my ratsun.

 

The diesel gets rotella.

All the cheap motors get rotella..

 

 

The cheap motors havint blown up.

But neither has the expensive one.

 

The lucas oil seems really thin when you pour it in the heavy weights vs the other kinds... I dont think its any different than lordco jobber oil

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Wasn't this thread about gear oil and not engine oil?

 

As for gear oil the Lucas stuff should not be used with yellow metal; I've used it in the past but you will see a fine tint in the gear oil when you drain it. Use either the Redline or NAPA stalube GL4. Now if you are running a tranny with steel synchro rings ignore Hoya I just said.

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