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scooter

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Everything posted by scooter

  1. scooter

    Nasty ass lz23

    Ah it is so fun reviving old threads. I never ended up dynoing this thing and this fall I took it apart as it was time to have a look. For an update the car has run down to an 8.2 on the 100 jets with shit track prep. Also the tranny started to have issues on the 1-2 shift. This 8.2 run had mashing gears on the 1-2 shift for about a second and was crunchy going 2-3. time to take that caitlyn jenner apart.. Below i will be posting "Nasty ass lz23 the refresh" whats new this year? stay tuned to find out. Im currently waiting on photobucket so i can post this bukkake of engine and transmission porn. were passing the sevens' this year and going for a high 6. gonna get kicked off the track for going too fast... thats the goal anyway..
  2. scooter

    L20B rebuild

    you can jb weld the slots if you dont have a welder. the next piece of electronics i want to add is a cb performance black box, so i can build a 3d timing map to get best power at all rpms. couple this with a locked dizzy and migrate to crank trigger. cant get much better other than going to coil packs. overall you should be okay. just try to make sure theres no sharp edges in or around the chambers so you lessen your chances of preignition
  3. scooter

    Cammed 210 head

    also if you bought the top end performance header, the ports in the flange are tiny and these will actually make less power than stock. theyre that bad. this was mine even after opening up the flange. the gasket is stock size. i gave this away after trying it due to dissapointment. i would only run this again if i couldnt find a manifold and if it was all i had. these ones are alot better, the flange actually matches the head. you might be able to find a NOS comp header which the one above is, or an ermish header or some other long tube thing. if you get a shorty, try and check out how the ports on the flange are. im not sure how other shorty ones compare, but the top end ones that the sell on ebay are poo.
  4. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    my heads not ruined? its come apart after 4 years of use and alot of nitrous for a refresh. yeah cold. never had one fall out. works for me. your decision i guess. im just advising you of what ive observed with dattos ive had over the last 10 years. how many times have you had to adjust valves since install? looks pretty. all im trying to get at is lots of people have this issue, and if the heads at the machine shop why wouldnt you try and eliminate the possibility of this happening. they are not going to make your 120hp datsun make more power. sure maybe they might work out for you, but when we have posts explaining how to shorten pivot posts so you can run the head a lil longer with this issue.. the ones ive had sink valves were stock motors and did quite a bit of on highway commuting.. the 620 i had essentially would run WFO from bc to alberta and back with the 4 speed so 5000-5500 all the time. they probably wernt tuned up the best either. ALSO, This. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjZk8ib-MPgAhU0Mn0KHYWcCi8QjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rhdjapan.com%2Fkameari-l-type-adjustable-timing-chain-tensioner-l6.html&psig=AOvVaw2k_Wscz2nJb6GBSnf4SDKS&ust=1550533141816596 lil chunk of metal fabbed up and a roll pin, your tensioner battles are over.
  5. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    then dont heat it. you can simply just cut the old seats out. this doesnt mess with the guides or anything like that. you can simply remove the old seat, if you confirm the size you can essentially just bang a replacement one in, as long as you have the required crush. I've put them in with 7 thou crush and they are fine. you will want to complete your valve job after seat replacement as this will usually distort the neighbouring valve seat. if your going through this effort you should get rid of those brass seats, you will be adjusting the valves every 1000 miles otherwise. i've ran two heads completely out of adjustment due to stock valve seat sink. the U67 I used to build mine had sunken valves, I've had an L16 with a 210 head that ran out of adjustment, and an A87 that did it as well, I also have another A87 closed chamber head that needs new intake seats as well. for a limited fuck around car you dont really need any fancy oil control stuff... I recently did one of the ishuara johnson crank scrapers for mine, as paying 1500 for a oil pan is bullshit. I didnt have any oiling problems last time around, but for 80 bucks it cant hurt to keep more oil in the pan. i agree with mike, get the high volume pump. i didnt run an oil cooler either, not sure if im going to install one too. pics or it didnt happen.
  6. how much timing did you have in it at idle?
  7. did you run that thing with the dizzy locked? i modified mine so i have 15 at idle and 32 all in. it liked lots of advance at idle, if i tried to dial it back the header would start to glow. yuuuuup
  8. those need to get run on a dyno mule to see what effect they would make... maybe those had something to do with a propane setup possibly?
  9. you are correct sir. i may have gone hog wild.. For the sake of the original poster, this has had the seats knocked out and replaced with ones for 45 and 36mm valves. because its such a cute little turbskie you dont need to go nuts.. but smoothing things out is a good idea and i agree with mike.
  10. get the 35mm valves, you may need to bore notch the block with the 38mm valves and you have to cut a bunch out of the side of the chamber to use them effectively. they are better for big bore builds with a 90mm gasket. unshroud the chambers to the head gasket the best you can, port work on the exhaust side will help too as they are pooey ports. as for intakes, 44 seems popular. you will encounter shrouding issues with the 46mm valve as well.
  11. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    your going to have to put the valves deeper into the head and blend out the chambers with p90 valves as they are shorter. you could use p90 seats as well. i think they are .100ish shorter overall and the tip is a little shorter as well. you need to get the stem height back up to the stock installed height or you will have all the problems. If your 45 cut doesnt hit the outside of the seat, then run it with the stock seats... well as long as it still doesnt have the brass intake seats.. get those out of there. l20b valves are 4.53 inches long and the p90 ones are 4.45 inches long. I used ferrea valves in mine which are the shorter ones. i had to put them deeper in the head and blend it out. It works good but if you havin't bought the valves yet your better off getting the pep stainless ones or the si ones as you can get the longer length ones. I didnt know of these till way after mine was in the car and running. 12:1 isnt going to be happy on pump gas, Ive tried. it will happily run on avgas though ? I am refreshing my motor this year and i have opened up the chambers quite a bit, hopefully i can get down to 11:1 with the flat tops and get away with 94 and octane boost. If you go to a 90 mm bore you might as well go to 45mm intake and 38mm exhaust, new seats, cut the chamber out to the edge of the gasket, make it a stump puller.
  12. merry christmas everyone!!!!

    1. datzenmike

      datzenmike

      Yes. And a datto new year

  13. scooter

    Franken engine

    it would be a good hobby machinist project. I think the easiest way to make this work is to machine the crank snout down to KADE snout size, so you can run the correct crank gear. coolant holes and oil drains would be just welding up and dealing with accordingly along with some chain guide mods, looking at what the aussie guy did, it doesnt look impossible. also theres no point unless your boring it to at least 89mm the other benefit to this is an L block is alot lighter than a KA block, well at least a car block anyway. if you did it with an L18 (like the oz motor) you would be considerably lighter than a KA swap and still make more power than an L motor. lighter than an SR? probably not. but unless you do the VE swap which has its own issues, you get a cam on bucket motor without the stupid forked piece of shit garbage rocker arms.
  14. this isnt a bad way to have a cam/crank sensor installed on an L series, its good because its a plug and play solution for someone who doesnt/cant run a crank trigger wheel on the front of their motor. as for efi and my own opinion, meh. id rather keep the carbs but this could be of good use for someone who wants to go coil on plug ignition. these motors could really benefit from some kind of computer controlled ignition, even while retaining sidedrafts or what have you.
  15. i have seen these as well, they are in the shape of a big S and put the tops of the carbs the same height as the valve cover from what i remember. the pierce one is about an inch shorter and raises the carbs about an inch and a half compared to the cannon PN 3825 manifold.
  16. hey is there a good spot on here to stick product reviews? i have just bought a bunch of crap and i'll write a proper review if theres a good spot for it to hang out. this is for datsun parts of course not some random shit. mike?
  17. scooter

    Early Weber DCOE 40s

    try it. i dont have information on the float needle sizes all i know is if you make shitloads of power or turbo you need the larger ones. these carbs will most likely be fine for you, maybe a little on the lean side but may be okay if your at a higher altitude? once you get these on if it runs decent do a super long wide open highway pull (a minute+) and see if it starts crapping out. if it doesnt your needle valve size is probably ok. i dont even know what size mine have in them but im not having issues anyway.
  18. it will be interesting to see if i can get any significant pull on the crankcase with it. a super late model i used to work on had the same relief valve as above, but ran a 5 stage dry sump and pulled all the vaccuum. running a pump on your motor has other benefits too, like keeping oil from weeping out the seals ?
  19. If that pump doesnt have enough pull or if it dies right away then ill get a real vaccuum pump for it, i still really like the idea of driving it off the back of the alternator though.
  20. Theres two there, ones sitting in the bed and its easy ill go get it
  21. so i was strolling through pick a part today looking for another 71c trans for my car and stumbled across a 720 with a sd22 diesel in it. after seeing what trans it had, i moved on, but there was something different i noticed... and that was THAT THERES A FRICKIN VACCUM PUMP HANGING OFF THE ALTERNATORS BUTT! these are also internally regulated 70 amp alternators as well. so i grabbed it as it looked really minty. So for you guys with side drafts that want power brakes, now you can have vaccuum without messing around with your intake or have your brakes work with a monster camshaft. pretty neat. also very reliable if you run it in the way its intended. this looks like a bolt in if you are set up already with an internally regulated system. My plan is to try and pull crankcase vaccuum with it. output to a catch can and block off the oil feed. plumb it into the valve cover sans baffle so it hopefully gets enough residual oil not to have a melt down. why? because racecar! maybe you guys knew about this allready, but i didn't and thought it was pretty cool.
  22. scooter

    Early Weber DCOE 40s

    it should have the revision number on the lids as well. they are all not the same. ideally you want matched revisions on the same engine. some people have ran mismatched carbs before with success, but meh. internet reasoning dictates the old ones are good because the progression holes are drilled differently. what the difference is i dont know. ive owned two dcoe's ever which i currently have and love. http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/DVAndrews/webers.htm check this out this link is gold and will get you real close. using this site for a mild l20b your 40 config will probibly be: 34 or 36 mil venturi's but no smaller than 32 for sure. smaller is better for low end response but will start eating into your top end power. f16 or f9 emulsion tubes, if its really hot rod maybe f2's but if its hot rod it should have 45's 145 main jet,190 air corrector idle jet, maybe like a 55f8, i would get a 50 and a 60 too so you can tune to what it likes. your float needle size will most likely be ok buy yourself a redline jet pack based on this being the middle of the road (they offer a few different kinds) and you can get these dialled in very decently. i used the info above to initially jet my motor, ended up going up just one jet size on the main jet and the idle then it was perfect.
  23. we shall see in the spring! The car is pretty consistent so if it is slower off the line and i lose E.T then i may switch back, but having the engine lose rpm quicker when shifting could improve it, also squaking the tires with the heavy flywheel when shifting doesnt help because the tires are spinning, plus accelerating that mass up three times in an eighth mile too. if i keep the same launch rpm i may lose some, but i might gain some as well due to less chance tire spin. also you gotta do it for the sound, engines that rev up and down like a crack of a whip kick ass.
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