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scooter

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Everything posted by scooter

  1. scooter

    KA with sidedrafts

    it was the 737-238 kit. i recall it wasnt really that much money, the emulsion tubes are a lil spendy though.
  2. Ive killed two of those innovate guages 😞 and many sensors. I cant blame the sensors due to running leaded fuel, but both guages died quite quickly with zero corresponance from innovate. Wont buy their shit ever again. I had my sensors 18 inches away from my collector and had good results when it was working. I hope your experience is better than mine has been. mike are you running sidedrafts now?
  3. In agreeance with the above. Try to find a new block. This could be stitched together and be okay for a stock non run hard application. Even if it was stockish if i was planning on beating on it this would be a reject. Seeing that your in cali, theres no shortage of l20b’s there. Unless its a concourse legit numbers matter resto i wouldnt use this block.
  4. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    These issues above is why i switched. I do miss the pattern though. These days i wouldnt even muck with a 71b, just mod the housing and run c geartrain where you wont break it with an l series without serious power adders. Ill letcha know when i strip 3rd gear in a c, at that point i will be going cd009 or t56... behind a 4 banger hahahahaha.. Please put spray on this thing so it rips ass 🙂
  5. scooter

    KA with sidedrafts

    Standby ill take a pic of the kit i bought, idk the part number off hand but it was just the jet kit from redline for 2000-2500cc engines with dual dcoes
  6. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    it should be a bolt in. the speedo cable is in a different spot at comes out at an angle on the dogleg. it should work though. and mikes right about the gears. I remember 2-3 in the L dogleg was pretty far apart compared to 1-2. you can also use an s12 or s13 or s14 trans but they are longer. but they still need the L series 71B bellhousing.
  7. scooter

    KA with sidedrafts

    Keep up the good work!
  8. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    Below is from datsun 1200.com i would call these believeable numbers to go off of For gearbox strength. Datsun boxes are numbered by the distance between the centres of the countershaft and the main shaft. 56 series 56 mm, 60 series 60 mm, 63 series 63mm. Approximate guides are 50 % up on the stock engine torque: * 56L 4 speeds 105 lb.ft (Datsun 1200) * 56A boxes 120 lb.ft (Datsun B210 & B310) * 60 series boxes 135 lb.ft * 63 series boxes 175 lb.ft * 71B series boxes 240 lb.ft * 71C series boxes 300 lb.ft * 90 series boxes ~290 lb.ft Borg Warner T5 in 1982-1983 280ZX Turbo
  9. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    The exedy ones are good stock replacement ones but the pressure plates are fuckin heavy. Last time around i had an act 225mm 6 puck in it and it was decent. I have the exedy in it right now but i may go back to an act or another brand to cut the weight down, im using a grw flywheel (12lbs) and a 240mm exedy pro kit for a 300zx. as for the trans.... If your nice to it, it will last a while. I ran this tranny for a few months with the good motor ( my car is where most of these trannys come from) but was steadily getting louder if i leaned on it, that was with no nitrous use too. They arent a very strong tranny but they are very light. If this was a stock L20b with side drafts it would probably be ok. You will probably kill it. If you want the shifter to be close to the same place look at d21 71c trannys. You need to do the bellhousing mod but it isnt really that big of a deal. the 71c trannys are strong as long as they have healthy bearings, they arent bad to re-bearing either. Bearing and synchro kits are on ebay for a low price. You can also fit s13 gears into the d21 case to get a double cone synchro on 2nd gear, which helps. Also the s13 5th gear is stronger, but the d21 has a closer ratio 5th. You can change this gear in them fairly easily so its your choice. considerations for this are: finding a good one need an L 71b bellhouing the speedo cable comes out at a different angle, minor floor dent required its an inch longer than a dogleg but stock driveshaft might work? Trans mount is also slightly off, can be modified to work or make a new tranny mount (easier) if the stock driveshaft doesnt fit, there is a slip yoke available for these trans to accept a 1310 type u joint so you could upgrade this as well and ditch the shitty little ones. This trans will also fit in the tunnel without hitting the floor, which i think a t-5 actually will hit the floor in a 510. Someone else here may know.
  10. scooter

    Hot LZ23

    How much meat did you have left at the diagonal steam hole at 90mm? Did you offset bore it? I approve this rotating assembly, you will be just fine. If you run a stock flywheel, balance it. Out of all my parts i balanced the flywheel was by far the worst. as for the crank, its not even a balance thing really, its a harmonics thing as well as a bending moment being put on the crankshaft from only having a counterweight on one side of the crank. This has not proven a problem with z22 cranks though. Not a bad idea to run the z22 front pulley or go aftermarket. If you have access to a flow bench, spend as much time as you can on it with that head. Take the wall side of the chamber beside the valve out to the gasket as discussed before.
  11. scooter

    redline?

    with a 4 speed i never had engine issues cruising at 5000rpm, i allways had issues with alternator death and transmission problems! In my latest incarnation the alternator is hella underdriven due to burning up more alternators than everyone else i know combined.
  12. scooter

    KA with sidedrafts

    so after reading this whole thing, I think you need to go to a 70f8 jet and turn your needles in. the idle jets do both the progression and idle. to fix your idle, turn your idle needles in till max rpm and back them out 1/4-1/2 turn ish. you need to get rich enough on 15-20% throttle that its not popping back through the carbs... it would be nice to get close to stoch in light throttle but you can pretty much forget about that. the best luck with my side drafts has been running 12.5:1-13:1 afrs throughout the range, including idle. if slow press to 15% throttle results in surging or popping you need to go up on the idles. you can try changing F numbers as well. if it doesnt sound crisp and its blubbery and has black plugs then go down, but you shouldnt get carb backfires from being too rich. i think it needs bigger mains as well. how is it WFO from lowish rpm (2500) to redline? i could see a 160 main and 190 air corrector being very close... depending on your altitude. there could be a whole thing started with emulsion tubes as well. considering the size of it and the ve% of a ka vs an L it may be beneficial to go to F2 emulsion tubes. I wonder what it would it be like if you locked the dizzy too (peak timing all the time) your second video sounds great. keep it up. buy the big kit from redline. be the butt dyno, you should be able to tell a difference in a single size jet change.
  13. scooter

    KA with sidedrafts

    Its the thackery washers that redline gives you with a cannon intake that are poop. Those rubber insulators are good. When my plastic o ring holders die ill be switching to those.
  14. scooter

    KA with sidedrafts

    Fuck these things they just crack and fall off then your tune goes to shit
  15. scooter

    KA with sidedrafts

    When your done monkeying around you should weld those two intake halves together to make one and ditch the couplers. Other than that i approve of all. The weber honk is addicting
  16. i remember my 620 had no front bar on it, i think it would have driven a hell of alot nicer with one. (it would roll over and pick up a rear tire) I dont think you'd need a rear bar on one of these unless you took some leafs out or something.
  17. the cannon ones have tiny ports as cast. may be good on a stockish l16 or stock motor but on something hot it requires alot of hogging out. the pierce one has huge runners as cast. i think the cannon would probibly work better on a stockish motor vs the pierce setup.
  18. scooter

    Piston id help

    i agree with mike
  19. Tom1200, what rear shocks are you using in your 1200? In my s10 200sx which is nearly identical in the rear as a 1200 i am using pro shocks in 2nd gen camaro length with “4/4” valving. The car is super planted in the rear.
  20. scooter

    Cammed 210 head

    Even that nice long tube header i posted earlier i had to dent a tube slightly cause it was hitting the steering box. Worth it in my case? Yes. On another note that header is for a 510 and not a 200sx, but its close enough to work. Mild 620 with a 38/38, i think id rock a cast manifold. Back to the original poster, i think like the stage 2 isky cam the l-480 grind might get you what you want. Not aggressive enough to kill the bottom end either
  21. scooter

    L18 bore 30 over

    Just get standard 280 flat tops and bore the extra .010. It takes like 10 minutes in a hone to knock that much extra material out. Or whatever flat top 280 pistons you can find. Bore the fuck out of it, make some powaa 😂
  22. ford 302's are really compact and make enough power to drift... might be a decent swap in a 210.
  23. ka or sr20 man.. check out datsun1200.com
  24. scooter

    Nasty ass lz23

    so the start of all this madness happened in the fall with this: someone got a little agressive with the timing.... 125hp shot of nitrous For fear that i really mashed it up, out it came. Along with the tranny. Unfortunatly i dont have pictures of the broken pieces but what happened is the brass pad came off the 1-2 shift fork and broke the tip of the fork off = shitty shifting. This was just a junkyard d21 trans to begin with so no suprise. here is the leftover guts from the trans rebuild. So what I ended up doing is buying an OK S13 tranny for the guts. I ended up using all the gears out of it and the shift forks. To make this work I had to completely dissassemble the cluster to remove the s13 tailshaft so i could use the D21 one. It was re-assembled with an ebay synchro and bearing kit and should be good to go. One gain this got me was double cone synchros, which the d21 trans did not have. I also have a better overdrive now, I believe it will be stronger as well as the teeth are much thicker than the D21 ones. Ta Da! back to the motor madness... it got a little toasty in the center, otherwise it doesnt look too bad other than the melted plugs.... no evidence of metal bouncing around. It was juuust starting to blow the head gasket in the center. if i hit this again with the 125 shot i think it would have been puking coolant. this thing ran fine and didnt have any signs of a blown head gasket. Pistons and cylinders look great! im very satisfied with this considering it ran 4 years with no air filters on it. After taking apart the head, i found that the exhaust guides were annhilated. Off to the machine shop for the head. I actually got them to knock the guides out and took it back so i could hog it out more, while parts arrived. In the previous incarnation I left a fair bit of meat in the exhaust port and ive learned quite a bit since doing this one 4 years ago. So this is what it looks like now. ive laid back the chamber a little bit more on the spark plug side to try and help flow, and around the outer edges of the valve even more. Ive certainly lost compression doing this but thats okay.. maybe i'll be able to get by on 94 on the street now. another thing that was attacked fiercely with the die grinder is the intake... stock cannon intakes are cast with wee runners in them, and have a machined bevel in the throats to match a 45mm carb. they are kinda horrendous if your trying to make good power. so..... this is a massive improvement and now has a proper taper from 45mm to the head ports (40mm??) I also had slugs welded on for the nitrous nozzles so theres more than a thread and a half holding them in now. they also sit alot higher in the port now, and may make the engine run a little better when not on the juice. More to come 🙂
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