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Everything posted by Tom1200

  1. So as the resident A-series guy I'll chime in: For bolt on parts; Weber 32/36 DGV down draft carb, header and a larger diameter exhaust. This will net you about 8-10hp. If you score some deals on parts it may be possible to do this for $250-$300. For another $300-$400: reground cam Delta Cams 278 grind, dual valve springs (Iskederian still has them), thinner GX head gasket (raises compression) and clean up the ports (especially around the valve seat) I port my heads using a dremel. That will net you another 10-15hp. This naturally requires taking the motor apart so if you can't do this yourself then it's not cheap. So for $700 or so you can get maybe as much as 25hp more. Plan on 18-20. It doesn't sound like much but you will notice a big difference....... It will still be slow relative to modern cars but it will Rev like mad. The A15 in my 1200 race coupe makes 99hp at the wheels. I have a ported GX head, Delta Cam, Isky valve springs, 77mm bore, 11-1 compression, header w/2" exhaust and 39mm Keihin flat slide carbs. Other than the machine work I did everything myself. It cost me right on $2000 to put that motor together.
  2. I have found an off the shelf throttle cable for those of us using Keihin carbs. Motion Pro part number 04-0231 It requires an adapter to be made for the fire wall. You'll need a 25-28mm long adapted one end for 14mm 1.50 thread and the other end 14mm 1.25 thread. After that you need to use a dremel to shape the gas pedal slightly to accommodate the cable end on the Motion Pro cable. Prior to this I was having custom cables made.
  3. late to the party 30 degrees at what RPM? I run 38 degrees (per the competition manual) at 4000 rpm.
  4. I was hoping you would chime in. It is the little things; a proper valve job is worth 5-6hp on my A-series. Just cleaning up the ports added almost 10hp to an otherwise stock A12GX motor. Half a point of compression is worth 3hp. I'm probably giving up 3-5hp on my A15 by just slapping bearings in it and calling it a day rather than being anal about the clearances. Ironically with an SR20 in the car I would be in the same catchall class that I am with the A15 or L series engine. If all I did was clean up the ports and install a free flowing exhaust on a SR20 motor it'd likely be making 140-145hp at the wheels. Thanks for the input...……….sounds like I should just leave it with the A-series as the mildly tuned L16SSS is only going to be about a 10hp boost over my mid-level tuned A15.
  5. Carter keep in mind my "race engines" are about 60% of an actual race engine. I'm getting no less than 5 seasons out of an A-series motor. IF I ran an SR20, I'd run it bone stock.
  6. All I ever seem to find in SR20s is either FWD or turbos. A turbo motor puts me in with V8s
  7. Understood on the L20 but the fit starts to get really tight in a 1200. Realistically the head if it is truly the 219 SSS head is where the value is, if the motor is not a SSS I will be walking away from it. I don't even know what trans is in it yet so that's a consideration as well.
  8. I run with VARA; with the A12 I'm running in C-sedan, with the A15 I get thrown into VARA's GTL class. In GTL I can run up to a 2.0 motor as long as I meet the rule set for a recognized sanctioning body. The Australian IPRA rules allow for everything from SR20 to L series engine. The only reason I'm thinking about this is I can get the motor cheap...…….like $500 cheap. The L16 is also fairly light and at the level I'd run it would probably do OK on pump gas. Before anyone says put the money towards a newer motor note that I've switched to running my 87 Novakar Formula 500 at VARA so the 1200 will likely see more track day duty than actual vintage racing. I love the 1200 but from a speed point of view it's no comparison
  9. A friend found a rusty 4 door 510 with a L16T/ SSS motor (could be L18) and allegedly the guy just wants it gone. So my hair brained idea is to replace the A12 & A15 motors I've been running in my vintage race 1200 with the L16. Background: My A12 is making 78-80hp at the wheels & the the A15 makes 99hp at the wheels. On both motors I use GX head with the ports cleaned up and 39mm flat slide carbs. The A12 uses he stock GX cam and the A15 is using a Delta 278 cam .420 lift 278 duration. I rev both motors to 8100. Regardless of whether the motor is L16 or L18 I'd simply clean up the ports, add a mild cam and call it a day. There are a couple of issues with this plan: I run very low gearing, the stock A-series bottom end will rev to 8500rpms and I have no idea what sort of RPM the standard L series bottom end will tolerate. I'd need to rev the L series to around 7500. I'd want this motor to produce around 110hp at the wheels without having to do a huge amount of modifications beyond a cam & mild porting and this may not be very realistic. I could adapt a manifold to fit the flat slides from the A-series. Any and all thoughts welcome.
  10. The pumpkin on the H190 just misses the box section that runs across the back of the car at the shock mounting location. The center section/housing on the H190 is about 10.5" tall. So far I haven't seen any evidence that the housing is hitting the floor and I pound the kerbs mercilessly. On a different note I'd love to know what a complete F20C actually wieghs.
  11. I use a Nissan H190 and my car, being a race car, has been lowered (I think it's 3 inches). The H190 is smaller than the Ford 8.8 and I had to take out the axle/pinion snubber to get and sort of suspension travel (2.5" of bump). The snubber is spot welded onto the car at the end of the drive shaft tunnel. Keep in mind I have the radius/traction bars so I don't need the snubber. You'll need to measure; I raised the rear end up (I disconnected it from the springs) to see what bottomed first, in my case it was the snubber. Currently the axle housing comes within about 5-6mm of the floor when it hits the bump stops. A Ford housing is a good choice; while the H190 will fit but it's 3" wider than stock and can result in tire clearance issues (I uses a very short 20.6 Hoosier race tire to solve that) plus things like the LSD are expensive ($1300-$1500 used). You can buy the Ford stuff all day long for reasonable prices. The only down side to the Ford axle is weight. I think they are about 140lbs, where as the Datsun H190 with alloy diff it 98lbs (using the Z alloy drums)
  12. If the adjustor screw is higher (more thread sticking up above the adjuster locknut) then when the lifter bottoms out on the cam lobe the 2mm gap may be enough to let the push rod fall out. If the rocker arm is stiff on the shaft, either the shaft or the rocker is galled. As for number 4 rocker, have you checked the rocker to see if it's bent? Compare it to the other rockers. If it's a cam lobe typically it won't have as much lift. I've never heard of it but it's physically possible a lifter is so worn it drops lower but you would expect to the lash adjust srew to be turned really far down into the rocker.
  13. If the coilovers are like the 280ZX set up on my 1200 you can undo the center nut at the top of the strut rod and the whole assembly will slide out of the camber plate. You will have to undo the two bolts that hold the strut onto the computer control arm as well as the slider pin bolts for the brake caliper.
  14. The H190 is 3" wider as well. I originally tried FWD wheel but they fouled the fins on the alloy drums...……...with discs you should have no problem.
  15. The toughest part of this is 1200s are so narrow. I bought a 1200 parts car (race car project) for $1000 as it came with a car H190, then I paid $1300 for an alloy center with LSD. I tool what I needed and sold off what I didn't for just over $1300. So I only paid $1000 to get the set up in my car, with the alloy drums (Z-car) and alloy housing it only weighs 4lbs more than the standard 1200 H145. The real issue is tire clearance, fortunately I run a Hoosier race tire which is only 20.7" tall. If it weren't a race car the widest tire I could run would be a 175, anything wider would require cutting, flaring and rewelding the rear fenders. I researched endlessly and never found anything that was both cheap and fit. In the end I just bit the bullet.
  16. You should be able to get a small mirror up inside the tunnel and read the number on the side of the transmission. It should be a 63 series gearbox.
  17. Steve here's a thought; for a drive shaft parking brake use something off a mountain bike, some of these use cable operated discs. You could use the caliper and make up a very small diameter disc. It would be near useless as a "emergency" brake but it would hold the car. The only other thing I can think of is some type of contracting band that grabs the outside of the drive shaft itself.
  18. You will likely have to get a clutch kit, $50-$75 on Rockauto, I assume NAPA is similar. I use the stock parts in the 1200 I race; even with the A15 that makes 99hp at the wheels and I never had clutch issues (other than when I mal-adjusted the MC push rod.....doh!)
  19. If you think you're going to eventually do a motor swap here is what I would do; send the cam out to Delta to be reground, clean up the ports, install the aforementioned SI valves and fit a weber 32/36 DGV carb or whatever carb you find cheap. All of that should add 15-20hp which will make the car feel like a rocket..............at least for an hour or so. 20hp may not seem like much but when I went from the 80whp A12 to the 99whp A15 the trap speed on the car went from 98 mph to 111 mph. I keep thinking I want to do a motor swap in my car, especially now that I have a single seat race car again but I've really grown fond of the rev happy A-series. The biggest issue with motor swap is the weIght; especially the turbo motors as an SR20DET is only about 20lbs lighter than a V8. The the joy of these cas is there's no wrong answer; keep the A14, fit an SR20 or V8 or RB25 it's all good.
  20. I use Redline MT-90 GL4; it is a synthetic. For the longest time I used Sta-lube in my 1200 that I race. The only reason I'm using Redline is the place I go to has it in stock. I wouldn't be to worried about the 85w...…..once upon a time I used straight 90W, it was like pumping syrup into the trans. As long as you don't flog the car from dead cold I wouldn't expect any issues. You are correct to be hesitant to use GL4/5; I did that once and the next time I drained the fluid it had a lovely metal flake brass sheen to it. Clearly it was not yellow metal safe. I think I ran one race weekend with it (could have been two). If you can't get Redline just run the Sta-Lube; it's perfectly fine for your use.
  21. Yes I was using the Delta 278 in an A15; from memory it's .420 valve lift and 278 duration. You'll need dual valve springs but those are still available from Isky for around $125 or so. Out of curiosity what valves are you using to get 40/33; if the valve seats need to be replaced then you might as well put larger valves in but if the seats are fine I'd be inclined to simply replace the 37/30 valves with the tapered stem type you can get from SI valves.
  22. The H89 head would make more power but at a higher RPM. If you're street driving the car and trying to keep a usable power band I doubt you could live on the difference.
  23. What gearbox is in the car now? What's in the car should be a 63 series box, which uses a larger driveshaft yoke than the 60 series gearbox. The 60 series uses the same yoke has the 56 series driveshaft. As for the crossmember they are not to different and it's easy enough to fabricate an adapter out of plate steel (can be done with a hacksaw and drill) I did this in the 1200 I race. If you are just looking for a 5 speed one of the guys on Datsun1200.com has 63 series 5 speed. He is in Texas so not to far away. I have one as well but I'm not sure I wish to part with it and I'm in Vegas so shipping may be pricey. Any A-series cylinder head will bolt to any A series engine. What you have to be mindful of is bolting a late head on an early block. The A14 is considered a late block, the head you have should be a late head as well but double check Datsun1200.com under head compatibility.
  24. I've got ye ole cherry bomb on mine and it sounds great but if I were driving it on the street I doubt I'd think so. I like the sound of a resonator and Ansa muffler on street cars.
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